YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
They do look decent, I like that they're pretty simple.
I think you need some of those new 37" sticky roxxilas
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They do look decent, I like that they're pretty simple.
I think you need some of those new 37" sticky roxxilas
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Got my harness back from ZOR last week. It looks great and everything was labeled nicely. Between yesterday and today I got it put in. Mounted the computer behind the gauge cluster. Got the fuel system pretty much done. I don't have a charcoal canister so I used the vapor hard line as a return.
Pretty much need to fill coolant, fill the trans with oil, weld bungs to my intake tube for the breather hoses, wait for an O2 sensor to come in, and it'll be ready to fire.
Pretty much need to fill coolant, fill the trans with oil, weld bungs to my intake tube for the breather hoses, wait for an O2 sensor to come in, and it'll be ready to fire.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Decided to try and run fuel pump to test system for leaks. Key on, no power to fuel pump.
Plug scanner into DLC and it powers up, so 12v is good there. Scanner has no communication with the ECM.
Let the troubleshooting begin. It all came from a running vehicle, so I doubt the ECM went bad sitting on my shelf for a couple months.
Plug scanner into DLC and it powers up, so 12v is good there. Scanner has no communication with the ECM.
Let the troubleshooting begin. It all came from a running vehicle, so I doubt the ECM went bad sitting on my shelf for a couple months.
2big bronco
Og irate
Needs to sence the engine turning over to send power to the fuel pump.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
It won't even prime for a few seconds once you turn the key on?
I checked spark and had nothing. I should check fuel pump power while cranking.
I checked spark and had nothing. I should check fuel pump power while cranking.
2big bronco
Og irate
Yeah check while cranking. I know mine with my myron harness gets nothing untill cranking
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
My factory 91’ also gets nothing until cranking.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
From what Myron says, sounds like computer took a shit.
It all ran fine when I removed it from the donor, the computer sat on my shelf for the last 3 months or so. Kind of scares me that this shit is so anemic. Time to throw a carb back on it.
It all ran fine when I removed it from the donor, the computer sat on my shelf for the last 3 months or so. Kind of scares me that this shit is so anemic. Time to throw a carb back on it.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Okay, weird.
Myron suggested cutting the pink wire from the fuel pump relay and grounding it to see if the pump turned on.
I pulled on the pigtail to get more of it out to work with, and the fuel pump turned on. The main relay clicks when you cycle the key now and the fuel pump runs for like 5 seconds, like I figured it would.
Maybe there's a broken wire in that leg of the harness or something. At least I have a starting point to go off of.
Myron suggested cutting the pink wire from the fuel pump relay and grounding it to see if the pump turned on.
I pulled on the pigtail to get more of it out to work with, and the fuel pump turned on. The main relay clicks when you cycle the key now and the fuel pump runs for like 5 seconds, like I figured it would.
Maybe there's a broken wire in that leg of the harness or something. At least I have a starting point to go off of.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
I don't have spark, but the scanner is actually able to read codes and see data now. Ran out of time for the night so I'll look into it tomorrow I guess.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
This is the pigtail that comes from the Tracker fuse box. It appears there must be an open wire or poor connection inside. The key is on the whole time, but you can hear the fuel pump and main relay click when i wiggle the pigtail. The fuel pump kicks on at this time also. I'm going to strip the tape next and see what's not right.
Kind of frustrated right now.
Kind of frustrated right now.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Check behind the fuse block and make sure something isn’t awry. Make sure you have power at the fuse and then work back.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Narrowed it down to this plug at the ecm. Need to find what wire is causing it and go from there. I guess jt could even be a bad pin in the ecm. Has anyone taken the covers off one of these computers before?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I think there’s a way to test your ECM without tearing into it.
I would just make 100% sure it’s not a broken wire or something before tearing that ECM open. They’re expensive to replace.
I would just make 100% sure it’s not a broken wire or something before tearing that ECM open. They’re expensive to replace.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
I spent a couple hours on it today. There's no way it's a wire, and I would bet all my money it's not a poor connection at a pin in ECM connector.
I narrowed it down to the main relay power pin, but it looks just fine. Not loose or anything. I stuck a strand of copper wire into the pin and plugged it back in, still the same results. Pulled connector back out of the ECM and it looks like that pin pulled out of the ECM. I'm going to buy a used computer and see what it does.
It'll now hold connection without having to put pressure on the connector, so I was able to run it and let it come up to temp. It seems to run awesome! I've got the IAC hose plugged for now, as I need to weld bungs into the intake tube for push lock hose barbs.
Front main seal appears to be leaking a little bit. Maybe I'll be lucky and it'll heal itself. Probably not.
Man it feels good to hear it run again.
Have a great weekend guys!
I narrowed it down to the main relay power pin, but it looks just fine. Not loose or anything. I stuck a strand of copper wire into the pin and plugged it back in, still the same results. Pulled connector back out of the ECM and it looks like that pin pulled out of the ECM. I'm going to buy a used computer and see what it does.
It'll now hold connection without having to put pressure on the connector, so I was able to run it and let it come up to temp. It seems to run awesome! I've got the IAC hose plugged for now, as I need to weld bungs into the intake tube for push lock hose barbs.
Front main seal appears to be leaking a little bit. Maybe I'll be lucky and it'll heal itself. Probably not.
Man it feels good to hear it run again.
Have a great weekend guys!
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Said fuck replacing the computer. The pin for the blue wire (main relay ground from computer) was dicked in the
computer so I cut the wire and ran it to ground. The relay still functions as normal because the 12v supply is switched by ignition.
Front main seal is leaking pretty good so I tore it down again. Crank has a groove from the old seal, so i ordered a repair sleeve and new seal.
Timing belt pulley did not want to come off, much in part because of the Loctite press fit repair stuff I put on it. Made a tool out of an old Toyota tie rod end and was able to press it off.
Also, a trick for removing the old seal if you don't feel like removing the oil pump.
computer so I cut the wire and ran it to ground. The relay still functions as normal because the 12v supply is switched by ignition.
Front main seal is leaking pretty good so I tore it down again. Crank has a groove from the old seal, so i ordered a repair sleeve and new seal.
Timing belt pulley did not want to come off, much in part because of the Loctite press fit repair stuff I put on it. Made a tool out of an old Toyota tie rod end and was able to press it off.
Also, a trick for removing the old seal if you don't feel like removing the oil pump.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
So, another failed front crank seal attempt.
I put a repair sleeve on the crank. Found that the seal fits nicely over an LS oil psi sender socket, which is slightly larger than the sleeve. I was able to walk the seal off the socket and onto the sleeve.
Note, this seal was installed with the oil pump in the engine. I removed the oil pump for the first install.
I'm using National seals. They fit like absolute shit into the bore of the oil pump. It's like the OD of the seal is larger than the ID of the oil pump bore. It causes the rubber of the seal OD to get fucked up and scrape off. Just isn't right.
The oil pump has some rub marks from the old timing belt drive cog. My plan is to buy a new oil pump with seal and throw that on. If it still leaks, idk what to do.
Any tricks to get the seal over the crank without tearing a lip?
I put a repair sleeve on the crank. Found that the seal fits nicely over an LS oil psi sender socket, which is slightly larger than the sleeve. I was able to walk the seal off the socket and onto the sleeve.
Note, this seal was installed with the oil pump in the engine. I removed the oil pump for the first install.
I'm using National seals. They fit like absolute shit into the bore of the oil pump. It's like the OD of the seal is larger than the ID of the oil pump bore. It causes the rubber of the seal OD to get fucked up and scrape off. Just isn't right.
The oil pump has some rub marks from the old timing belt drive cog. My plan is to buy a new oil pump with seal and throw that on. If it still leaks, idk what to do.
Any tricks to get the seal over the crank without tearing a lip?
skyhiranger
Well-known member
You are lubing the seal and crank right? If so you shouldn’t have any issues. I use grease for lube, not oil. Use either grease or RTV on the outside of the seal.
I use National seals quite a bit and haven’t had issues.
I use National seals quite a bit and haven’t had issues.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Silglyde on the outside of the seal and assembly lube on the inside.
Pushing it into the bore scrapes the rubber off the outside of the seal.
I've used National seals countless times without issue. Maybe something about the oil pump isn't right.
Pushing it into the bore scrapes the rubber off the outside of the seal.
I've used National seals countless times without issue. Maybe something about the oil pump isn't right.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Try freezing the seal? Maybe it will shrink up just enough to fit into the bore without scraping the rubber off.
You are lubing both the outside of the seal and the bore of the pump?
Make sure the bore of the pump is smooth with nothing to catch the seal and scrape the rubber off.
You are lubing both the outside of the seal and the bore of the pump?
Make sure the bore of the pump is smooth with nothing to catch the seal and scrape the rubber off.
SHARPMACHINE
Web Wheeler
I have used a small dab of silicone on the od of a seal before in place of lube. It will act as a lubricant for installation and then seal everything when it dries.
Tech Tim
Your AD Here....
You can also use a small bead of silicone down around the corner of the seal pocket to seal the inner OD to the bore.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
I never thought of using silicone like that, good idea guys. I've also never had a deal fight me like this.
I ended up ordering a new Melling oil pump, figured the old one should have been replaced anyway due to the old timing belt cog rubbing into it so hard. It comes with a seal already installed. Hope I have luck this time.
I ended up ordering a new Melling oil pump, figured the old one should have been replaced anyway due to the old timing belt cog rubbing into it so hard. It comes with a seal already installed. Hope I have luck this time.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Picked up my new tires yesterday. I forget how much fun mounting these are. It definitely churched er up a bit.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
When the tires and wheels cost more than the whole rest of the rig 
When's the shake down run?
When's the shake down run?
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
That's all I can think of! She just doubled in value lol.When the tires and wheels cost more than the whole rest of the rig
When's the shake down run?
As soon as I can get the front crank seal situation rectified. There's a huge ass party in a quarry down the road from me next weekend that I'd probably go to. That "Redneck Rave" dude is coming, bands, Sail mega truck, etc. Quarry owner is a mud truck guy, as are all his friends, but my little wheeling group has gone to a couple of his parties and he went full bore into trying to make crawler type obstacles and trails for us, so that's pretty cool. It would be a good shake down run but I don't think I'll have it done in time.
I ran it up and down the road last weekend. Night and day difference over the 1.3. I let off at 80mph because the wife was freaking out. It actually runs pretty damn good.
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
FYI - A slightly modified brake cleaner cap works well for a seal installer. Cut the closed end off, cut the ribs off the inside, and ground down the shoulder at the bottom.
Put the cap in the seal and slid the oil pump right on without any effort. The cap came right out and none of the lip got rolled over.
Fingers crossed its good now.
Put the cap in the seal and slid the oil pump right on without any effort. The cap came right out and none of the lip got rolled over.
Fingers crossed its good now.
Attachments
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Third time was the charm, no more leaks!
I am about to throw the fuel pump that came with the swap kit in the trash. It is so FUCKING LOUD! Like, it's laughable how loud it is. I read people bitching about the noise of it, but I figured they're just picky. Nope, holy fuck. Wow!
I've always run Airtex E2000 pumps on everything fuel injected and they are very quiet. I've got a newish one on the shelf, has about 30 mins of run time in a Caravan I built for demolition derby. Going to put that on, and if it doesn't work out, I'll just get a new tank out of a fuel injected Sami.
it's wicked how much more power this has over the old 1.3
I am about to throw the fuel pump that came with the swap kit in the trash. It is so FUCKING LOUD! Like, it's laughable how loud it is. I read people bitching about the noise of it, but I figured they're just picky. Nope, holy fuck. Wow!
I've always run Airtex E2000 pumps on everything fuel injected and they are very quiet. I've got a newish one on the shelf, has about 30 mins of run time in a Caravan I built for demolition derby. Going to put that on, and if it doesn't work out, I'll just get a new tank out of a fuel injected Sami.
it's wicked how much more power this has over the old 1.3
Brecklin
Red Skull Member
Suddenly, it's not running right. I figured it was too good to be true.
Last time I had it out, it was acting like it was starving for fuel. I didn't look too far into it, as I wanted to ditch that shitty fuel pump anyway and figured that might be the cause. You could hear the pump changing pitch like it was passing air. I ordered a fuel tank from a 91 EFI Samurai, with the in tank pump. Put that in and it still does the same thing.
It seems like anything above 2000 RPM causes a hell of a miss. It'll even cause the tach to jump around without a rhyme or reason (like you're at 2K and it'll start missing and the tach will jump up to 4K and generally jump around.)
I don't think it's fuel related and all the sensor values seem normal. It starts and idles like a dream.
My initial guess is the computer is shit. I already know it has a loose pin for the main relay ground, wonder what other pins might be fucked up.
Last time I had it out, it was acting like it was starving for fuel. I didn't look too far into it, as I wanted to ditch that shitty fuel pump anyway and figured that might be the cause. You could hear the pump changing pitch like it was passing air. I ordered a fuel tank from a 91 EFI Samurai, with the in tank pump. Put that in and it still does the same thing.
It seems like anything above 2000 RPM causes a hell of a miss. It'll even cause the tach to jump around without a rhyme or reason (like you're at 2K and it'll start missing and the tach will jump up to 4K and generally jump around.)
I don't think it's fuel related and all the sensor values seem normal. It starts and idles like a dream.
My initial guess is the computer is shit. I already know it has a loose pin for the main relay ground, wonder what other pins might be fucked up.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Nothing to add except you made the right move on the factory intake pump and that the 1.6 computers are known to go bad.