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1st Build Thread Attempt - Cheap Suzi

If you don't see it, is it even cracked? :flipoff2:

I'm reading a bunch of crap about that key way problem. This thing ran and drove fine before hand, I don't think it had a timing issue. I guess I'll find out once I remove the crank bolt and timing gear to replace the front main seal.

I did read about an updated tightening torque that was put out in a TSB. Alldata did not have that TSB listed for the 1998 Tracker this came out of. It looks like the TSB effected 89-96 model years?

Were these 97 and newer 1.6 engines not effected with the crank key issue like the older ones?

Either way, I'm going to buy the kit that has the timing gear, key, washer, and bolt.
 
They had the same issue.

Hwy83 just uses JB Weld and he said it works to fix the key way. It’s better than welding the actual crank.
 
The updated torque spec is 94 ft. lbs, for all 1.6s IIRC.
Pull the bolt and timing cog to see if there is even a keyway issue before throwing money at parts you may not need.
 
Out in the shop this morning, set timing marks where they need to be and pulled the timing belt, and then pulled the crank bolt. With the bolt out I could turn the timing gear a good amount either way - perfect.

I'm not sure what a mangled crank snout looks like, but mine doesn't look bad. The key was fucked hard, I don't know if it's supposed to be stepped in the way that it is, but it's definitely not a regular looking woodruff.

Look how far off TDC is, I'm surprised it ran as good as it did.

The bolt is all rusty, the gear looks okay, so I'm just going to buy a bolt and key. Loctite 660 the key in and put 94ftlbs on the crank bolt and hope it holds.

So, make me feel.better by saying it doesn't look bad, or just tell me it's fucked and I should throw a crank at it.
 

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Brecklin said:
Out in the shop this morning, set timing marks where they need to be and pulled the timing belt, and then pulled the crank bolt. With the bolt out I could turn the timing gear a good amount either way - perfect.

I'm not sure what a mangled crank snout looks like, but mine doesn't look bad. The key was fucked hard, I don't know if it's supposed to be stepped in the way that it is, but it's definitely not a regular looking woodruff.

Look how far off TDC is, I'm surprised it ran as good as it did.

The bolt is all rusty, the gear looks okay, so I'm just going to buy a bolt and key. Loctite 660 the key in and put 94ftlbs on the crank bolt and hope it holds.

So, make me feel.better by saying it doesn't look bad, or just tell me it's fucked and I should throw a crank at it.
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Loctite it. Cranks are $800 new, and good luck finding them used and good.

I’m pretty certain that block is cracked. But just run it. Unfortunately I think you should either keep your 1.3l or start finding a back up engine, IMHO.

I had two blocks. The one with the oil pump worn like yours and the timing cover getting chewed up was cracked. The other one that wasn’t, which spun a bearing and broke a rod, wasn’t cracked.

EDIT: Honestly, these 16V’s do not impress me at all. The 8V and the 1.3l are far more impressive for abuse and reliability.
 
FleshEater said:
Loctite it. Cranks are $800 new, and good luck finding them used and good.

I’m pretty certain that block is cracked. But just run it. Unfortunately I think you should either keep your 1.3l or start finding a back up engine, IMHO.

I had two blocks. The one with the oil pump worn like yours and the timing cover getting chewed up was cracked. The other one that wasn’t, which spun a bearing and broke a rod, wasn’t cracked.

EDIT: Honestly, these 16V’s do not impress me at all. The 8V and the 1.3l are far more impressive for abuse and reliability.
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As much as I don't want to believe it, you are right. I shouldn't have jumped on this 16v so quickly. The donor rig came up for sale cheap and ran great. Had I known then what I know now about the crank and block issues, I probably would have passed.

Kind of wish I had thrown the 4.3 and Yota trans I have into it.

I'm at the point of not being able to turn back now so I'll fix the crank to the best of my ability and run it til it pukes. Shitty thing is ill have to do another harness if I find an 8v.

Anyone wanna buy a Samurai roller? :flipoff2:
 
Brecklin said:
As much as I don't want to believe it, you are right. I shouldn't have jumped on this 16v so quickly. The donor rig came up for sale cheap and ran great. Had I known then what I know now about the crank and block issues, I probably would have passed.

Kind of wish I had thrown the 4.3 and Yota trans I have into it.

I'm at the point of not being able to turn back now so I'll fix the crank to the best of my ability and run it til it pukes. Shitty thing is ill have to do another harness if I find an 8v.

Anyone wanna buy a Samurai roller? :flipoff2:
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Don’t give up. Keep the engine money down knowing it’ll probably grenade some day and just run it. You might get years out of it.

I’m pretty sure the block that was cracked that I got ran that way for at least 10 years. It even had decent compression. But if you’ve got little money it, who cares?

Also, you can make a lot of money on the rest of that Tracker if you don’t scrap it. Diff gears, transfer case, other odds and ends. People always need parts on these.
 
The key should be flat on the sides.
Looks like you need some filler material on the one side of the key slot in the crank…jb weld.
 
FleshEater said:
Loctite it. Cranks are $800 new, and good luck finding them used and good.

EDIT: Honestly, these 16V’s do not impress me at all. The 8V and the 1.3l are far more impressive for abuse and reliability.
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This. Over the years I've found the 16v good for a nice DD samurai. I have found that the 8v and 1.3L will take twice the beating of the 16v and would take those 2 over the 16v any day unless it's free or dirt cheap.

I had motor that looked identical to yours, I was able to replace the main seal without issue and got a new key, cog, bolt. Got 4-5 years (approximately 3,000 off road miles) worth of stupid abuse and never had an issue. Even sold the truck with it and as far as I know, 5 years later its still running said engine.

If you could replace the main seal without issue I'd say slap it all back together and run it.

Having a backup something stored in a back corner of the shop is a good idea though when it comes to the 16V.:laughing:
 
Enough parts were dropped off to get the front of the engine pretty much together.

Pulled the oil pump to replace the front main seal, found an awesome groove on the crank. Fuck it, new seal and back together. I didn't even bother searching for a Speedi Sleeve option.

The new key and timing gear felt great on the crank, not really any slop. I filled the keyway with Loctite 660 and smeared a tiny bit on the snout of the crank also. Jammed a piece of plate into the fly wheel, gave the new crank bolt a bunch of red Loctite, and set it to 95 ft/lbs.

Timing belt went on nicely and the timing marks have stayed dead on after rotating it a bunch.

I'm going to leave the timing cover off for the initial startup, just to monitor things. Kind of nervous about the alternator/fan belt making love to the timing belt, that'd be about my luck.

Hopefully have the engine set back in the chassis this weekend.
 

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Tossed er in today. Decided to tackle the cooling system first. It's awesome how close all the hoses and what nots are to the 1.3 stuff. I'm going to get rid of the Samurai heater core valve and run coolant through the heater core full time, just like it was in the Tracker. Dropped the radiator about an inch to get the fan centered in the shroud.

Need to acquire a header and wait for the wiring harness to come back from ZOR, which will probably be a minute.
 

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Didn't get much time in the shop today, but was able to modify the throttle cable bracket so the Samurai cable can be used.
 

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I'm either retarded or having a mental block. Probably retarded.

Threw together an intake tonight, need to plumb in the 1/2" and 3/8" breather hoses like factory. Going to plumb them into the metal intake tube.

Why can't I find bulkhead style fittings that have 2 rubber gaskets and a nut? Like a metal bolt in valve stem.

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So I have a really bad feeling that ZOR lost my harness.

Tracking shows it was signed for on Dec 27th. I haven't heard anything from them since. Myron is going to look for it today.

I might be worrying for nothing.
 
So what happened? They got it, tossed it in the corner somewhere and forgot about it or...and is it done, youve been waiting sometime for them to not even know they had it? :lmao:
 
Wuz-A-zuk said:
So what happened? They got it, tossed it in the corner somewhere and forgot about it or...and is it done, youve been waiting sometime for them to not even know they had it? :lmao:
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I talked to Myron before sending it, he said he majorly behind and warned me it'd be a while. I was fine with that, and still am, just was getting worried my shit got lost. It's in line, waiting to get done.
 
Suzi is getting beadlocks!

I've got a buddy who works in the warehouse at Custom Offsets. Apparently someone ordered a set of 5 KMC Riot 17x9 beadlocks with some Patagonias mounted to them, but canceled the order. Since the wheels have had tires mounted they can't sell as new. He messaged me and said I could have all 5 (wheels only) for $650.

I looked them up and they go for around $500 a wheel. I definitely can't pass this up.
Screenshot_20230223_163401.jpg
 
It ain't 35% grandma pics but I like the way these look. I've never had fancy wheels. Now, what tires should I wrap them in?
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