CJ5 wild stretch and full build (Big Booty Judy)

[1Sinner]

If you look close, this will make you laugh. At least it sure makes me giggle. I was going through a bunch of old switches and electrical components and a couple key switches. I happened to find this one. It's an early 60s Briggs and Stratton key switch, all the old cj's had small dash mounted keys, but when I saw this, I truly couldn't help myself but to use it for the Ignition switch. The key has the old Briggs stamping on it. I love it.

also rigged it with race car push button starting (key switch is only power and accessory positions).

Here is where the real fun was. Neutral safety switch and the tap shift feature wiring for the 6L80E.

Each feature (Tap shift engaged, shift down, shift up) required a different voltage with resistor banks in line... so the trans needs a 12v input that has to be split into 3 leads and each lead needs a resistor bank with specific and combined resistance for control of input voltage for the transmission shift control.

When engaged (sport mode) incoming resistance needs to be 8.25k ohms.

when upshifting, combined resistance needs to be 1.22k ohms (line resistor is 8.25k + 1.5k ohm resistor)

When downshifting, combined resistance needs to be 2.88k ohms ( 8.25k + 4.42k ohm resistors)

There are only one or 2 videos on YouTube that explain this in detail. Lokar and PSI conversions do not supply instructions on how to properly connect tap shift. They both just say to research your application. The best one I found is:

Combined resistance banks to get the proper values for tap shift.

sketch diagrams for values next three images. The included vidoe does a great job
He even added momentary switches to his steering wheel for tap shift. Truly a great watch if you're running a 6L80E.

 

[FLUX]

Thanks for taking the time to put this kind of stuff together on the forum. These post are gold for those searching.

 

[1Sinner]

Thanks for taking the time to put this kind of stuff together on the forum. These post are gold for those searching.

I had to look for quite a while to find it. I was just hoping to help someone else along the way. Like most of us try to do here.

 

[1Sinner]

Began this nonsense today, needed a break from the wiring. Pulled the sides off the steel top, and began mockup for the aluminum top. Looks like I'll have to make the sides a little taller to accommodate the roll cage.

Plenty of room. Looks like I'll have about a half inch of clearance at the top for the cage to inner wall clearance. And the doors will be nice and big.

 

[EndlessMtnFab]

 

[Scottie]

Is that running e38 ecu? I think there’s a few tap shift modules out there that can be run as well but not sure on the LS stuff.

Still looking foward to the top build!

 

[1Sinner]

Is that running e38 ecu? I think there’s a few tap shift modules out there that can be run as well but not sure on the LS stuff.

Still looking foward to the top build!

No, it's a 58x. It has tap shift built in. I was lazy and had psi conversions put it together, but no one at psi or lokar could tell me how to make it work. That's why I included as much detail on the shift module as possible.

I picked up some more aluminum yesterday and started heavily in on some sketches. Hoping to start the frames today.

 

[1Sinner]

Got busy and got a ton done today on the frames for the alumitop.

Ended up going an inch taller to guarantee I wont have cage fitment issues

I almost felt bad sanding these off today to make sure the sheetmetal sits flush as I shell the frames and make the doors/hatches. All my aluminum welds were coming out pretty solid today.

five frames and one header for the rear hatch done today. Not too shabby. Though I spent hours on layput and drawings to make sure there was clearance before I started.

rear hatch and header with the hinge installed, I set it up to be able to easily disassemble everything for sheeting.

Header and rear hatch test fit, I did account for the extra inch of height, its currently captive, but will not be when the top is complete.