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1992 F-150 4X4 Price Check

JR4X said:
That’s what I told him. If he can resist the urge to lift it and put big tires on it, it can remain a good truck. Or do lift it and put big tires on it and start having M5OD problems
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32" ATs and a 2.5" lift might be just right:smokin:
 
They be gettin' crazy out there...

1996 Ford f150 regular cab
$9,500
Listed 2 weeks ago in Brighton, MI

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I finally dragged this thing home yesterday. I ended up giving my neighbor $300 cash a few weeks ago, but didn't have a chance to get it home until now. I felt guilty because this guy is really nice and he has been a great neighbor. He watches my place when we are away and gives us vegetables from his garden. He lives in the blue house in the background of the photo. His family is great but is also very poor. He was going to the food bank when this thing broke down. I wanted to do a little bit more for him so I also fixed the brakes on his other vehicle, an old Durango. The Durango would lock up the front brakes on a panic stop because the rear brakes were not getting hydraulic pressure. I bought and installed a master cylinder, and cleaned and reset the proportioning valve. I also flushed all of the old fluid out, refilled and bled the system. That fixed the Durango, so I'm into this truck a grand total of $450 and a few hours of work.

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I've been doing some casual googling of known transmission (E4OD) issues. One of the themes that I found in several places talked about an overheated transmission pushing all of the fluid out of the vent. When I got the truck over to my house, I crawled underneath it and removed the rubber inspection plug from the bottom of the bellhousing. Inside the bellhousing is dry. I do not think that the leak was from the front seal like the previous owner thought.

I decided to go ahead and fill it up with ATF and see what happens, because I needed to see where it was leaking, if it still is. I bought a couple of gallons and poured in about 7 quarts before it read full on the dipstick. No leaks while it idled in the driveway so I took it for a drive around the block. It shifted fine and acted totally normal. It still hasn't leaked any ATF so maybe I'll get lucky on the transmission.

The engine runs fine, but it idles at about 1,450 rpm, even after it is fully warmed up. I unplugged the IAC and it didn't make any difference so I'm guessing it has a vacuum leak somewhere. I replaced a few really ugly vacuum lines, but it's still the same. I sprayed brake clean around the intake, but I didn't see a change in RPMs while I was doing that. I'll have to mess with that more this weekend. I ordered a cheap OBD1 code reader from Amazon today, so I'll be able to scan for codes tomorrow.

After that, I need to diagnose and repair the four wheel drive. The auto hubs are suspect, but I haven't messed with any of that yet. It also needs a fuel pump in the rear tank and the power windows don't work worth a shit. The rotten muffler doesn't sound horrible, so I might not mess with that until last. I will clean it up and buff out the paint so that it isn't as dull looking.

I went to the DMV today and got the title transferred into my name, but I have no intention of keeping this truck. I am going to flip it and hopefully make enough on it to purchase a used 4 wheeler and a snow plow for my driveway.

The camper shell is missing the entire rear hatch, but it is otherwise ok. Should I ditch the shell or leave it on there when I sell it?
 
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The plastic vacuum lines are known for getting brittle and cracking. Could be one, or several.

The auto hubs are junky, if i was keeping it theyd be getting replaced with manuals. Auto or manual tcase? The electric motors get sticky from non-use.

Power windows dont work, or work slowly? The bushings in the track, or the window run channels could be the issue.

I dont know that id bother removing the top, unless the buyer doesnt want it. I cant see it impacting the value of the truck much either way.
 
Will12785 said:
power windows are an easy fix. Remove the regulators and you'll find the plastic piece around the shafts are broken or falling apart. Replace those with 3 ball bearings and your good to go.
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Sort of this. Can you hear the electric motors struggling? Or do the motors sound fine but the windows kinda jerk and inch their way up. There are YouTube videos on how to service the inside of the doors because the old original lubricants turned sticky.

The high idle does sound vacuum related. I’d leave the topper alone if it’s just a flip. I’d also toss the auto hubs and replace them with selectable ones.
 
The hillbillies 'round here would try and sell that truck for at least $15,000 on facespook marketplace.... It would Not sell, but it makes gomer feel good that he thinks his junk is worth its weight in gold :shaking::dustin::jester:

Buy it

.
 
Fix it up, use it as a home projects/weekend beater.
Keep camper shell on.
You can rig up a replacement window out of some lexan/plywood if so inclined.
Or go easy route and use velcro and cut vinyl canvas (perhaps snap caps vs velcro)
 
GM Guy said:
I'd leave the shell on it. Never was for shells because limited room, but once I got a used truck with one on it (and the raised roof like on your f150, I'm liking having a dry bed that I can leave stuff in, or not worry about picking something up if its raining.
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Handy as a tshirt pocket for throwing the dog back there when he decided to plop around in dead fish mud that smells like Hillary Clinton's wizard sleeve.
 
If I was selling it, I'd probably take pics with and without it, the guy paying too much money for that truck wants to believe it's a grandpa truck that's had a camper on it its whole life, make sure the camper goes with it, though he'll dump it immediately
 
reptillikus said:
Power windows dont work, or work slowly? The bushings in the track, or the window run channels could be the issue.
Click to expand...
Will12785 said:
power windows are an easy fix. Remove the regulators and you'll find the plastic piece around the shafts are broken or falling apart. Replace those with 3 ball bearings and your good to go.
Click to expand...

JR4X said:
Sort of this. Can you hear the electric motors struggling? Or do the motors sound fine but the windows kinda jerk and inch their way up.
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The power windows do work, but they struggle and you have to "help" them by pushing the glass up or down as you push the button.

I was sick most of the weekend, so I didn't end up working on the truck much at all. I did receive the OBD1 code reader from Amazon, so at least I can do a little bit of dignostics when I get off my lazy ass.

It sounds like the consensus is to go ahead and keep the shell on it, so that makes my life a little bit easier. Like someone said, if I take it off I'll be stuck with dealing with/disposing of it anyway.

I'll post more later this week after I get a chance to poke around a little bit more.
 
If vac. reservoir is the metal one check it also for rust thru at bottom. I used a vacuum hand pump to check components & lines for leaks one by one.
 
Roc Doc said:
This.

My 90 Bronco 351 had an E4OD
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I might have to eat my words, it seems there was a narrow year range where 5.0s got e4od, though I'd never come across it.

I have however come across a 89ish 4wd f250 with a factory 5.0 5 speed:homer:

They did weird stuff
 
Projectjunkie said:
I might have to eat my words, it seems there was a narrow year range where 5.0s got e4od, though I'd never come across it.

I have however come across a 89ish 4wd f250 with a factory 5.0 5 speed:homer:

They did weird stuff
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I had a 95 4x4 extra cab short bed mass air 5.0 truck that was for certain an E4OD a not the 4R70W.
 
Buddy in college had a 92 Bronco 5.0L with an E4OhNo, Ford did whatever the F they wanted. C6's were available until 96 in certain trucks, and I've seen a 93'ish F250 with what I believe was the T170 4 speed in it...
I had an 88 Bronco with a 4.9L and ZF5 in it, it was my first car. My dad bought it brand new, so I know it wasn't a swap. Haven't seen any more like that.
 
Roc Doc said:
This.

My 90 Bronco 351 had an E4OD
Click to expand...

Projectjunkie said:
I might have to eat my words, it seems there was a narrow year range where 5.0s got e4od, though I'd never come across it.

I have however come across a 89ish 4wd f250 with a factory 5.0 5 speed:homer:

They did weird stuff
Click to expand...
From what I saw when I crawled underneath it and according to this chart, it is an E4OD.

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Messed around with this old pile more over the last weekend. I found and repaired the massive vacuum leak (cheap plastic oil catch can plumbed into pcv system) so that it idles at a normal level and runs good at cruising speed. Also, (with the help of youtube university) I was able to fix both power windows, now they work like they are factory fresh.

I also did some diagnosis on the 4X4. I'm pretty sure that the transfer case actuator needs replaced. The switch, wiring and module all check out good. The position switches inside the actuator that tell the module what gear the t-case is in are not giving correct readings, according to the diagnostic chart I am looking at. I have a new actuator coming. It probably needs locking hubs too, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

If I can get the 4X4 working correctly, I will probably replace the fuel pump in the rear tank so that both fuel tanks work. Aside from that, I just need to clean the hell out of this pig. The interior was filthy, but I removed the seat and went to work in there and got it cleaned up fairly well. I still need to shampoo the filthy carpet, but that won't take too long.

I have all of the dash pieces, I even bought a new bezel so the fuel tank switch and 4X4 switch now fit in the dash correctly and are not just hanging by the wires. I'm waiting to reassemble the dash and the kick panel over the module until after I make sure the 4X4 is working correctly.

So far I am into this thing for a total of $711.22.

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