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1991 Snow Tracker Build

So that whole timing belt area was full of oil/crud. I know the crankshaft seal was leaking when I had the power steering pulley yanking on it. But I can’t tell if the oil pump seal is leaking.

I have a feeling I’m going to put this all back together and still have oil leakage somewhere.

Anyone think it’d be a bad idea to fire it up with the timing cover off and see when this is all done?
 
Not gonna hurt anything to run it without the timing cover. I mean I wouldn’t be out mud bogging it, but a little rip around should be enough to let you see the leak.
 
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Glad I measured the fairlead. It’s a 6.5” bolt pattern.

Fawk HF garbage. They do this all the time. Make weird patterns and then don’t sell replacement parts. Cheapest I found was $32 from Custom Splices.
 
Byro said:
www.ebay.com

50' x 1/4" Black 6400LB Synthetic Winch Rope Line Cable+ Hawse Fairlead+ Stopper | eBay

<li> PRODUCT INFORMATION:</li> <li> </li> <li>Overview:</li> <li>Synthetic Rope Come with Protective Sleeve to Prevent Overheating, Slippage, Rough or Sharp Surfaces. Included Heat Guard to protect the rope from excessive heat caused by the brake mechanism inside of the winch drum. Prevent...
www.ebay.com

That and re-drill the plate/make a new one?
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Not enough to ream out to fit. I’d have to replace the winch mount, then probably dick around with mounting bolts. Overall it’ll be $65 for everything. Not terrible, I guess.
 
JR4X said:
That’s how I feel about every 16V I’ve had compared to every 8V I’ve had. Maybe all 8V’s except for the one YotaAtieToo has/had only run on 3 cylinders.
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:laughing:

Mine was out of a total grandma unit. 2wd auto, had like 60k miles and had those bar code stickers stuck on the valve cover from dealer services. It was clean enough that pnp pulled it and had it sitting in the show room.

I only drove 2 other 8v's one was buddies stock 2 door 5spd on 33s and it felt OK. Then my black auto that was kinda a turd, but it was hammered to hell and back.
 
Do you guys ever add any goop to your head gaskets when you install them? Older guy at work recommended some Permatex aviation type gasket sealer.

Also, pretty sure I can save that valve seat. It’s not too terrible.

Got the head all torn down. Cleaning this up sucks. The exhaust side is just caked in hard carbon.
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He’s talking about “permatex Hi-tack”. I used to work at an engine machine shop rebuilding engines. I wouldn’t use hi-tack on a head gasket. Everywhere else yes, head gasket no. I also wouldn’t do copper coat or any of the other old time tricks on a head gasket. Hi-tack will help long term keep your oil pan gasket sealed, water pump. Not meant for head gaskets though. You want both metal surfaces clean and dry, head gasket will do the rest.
 
JR4X said:
He’s talking about “permatex Hi-tack”. I used to work at an engine machine shop rebuilding engines. I wouldn’t use hi-tack on a head gasket. Everywhere else yes, head gasket no. I also wouldn’t do copper coat or any of the other old time tricks on a head gasket. Hi-tack will help long term keep your oil pan gasket sealed, water pump. Not meant for head gaskets though. You want both metal surfaces clean and dry, head gasket will do the rest.
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MLS gaskets I’ve always copper coated, the fiber/metal deals, no.

So that’s, one coat. One no coat. :homer:
 
Byro said:
MLS gaskets I’ve always copper coated, the fiber/metal deals, no.

So that’s, one coat. One no coat. :homer:
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I know a lot of people have learned that trick. There isn’t a single manufacturer I know of that assembles a brand new engine putting anything on the head gasket surface on assembly, past or present.

Now, ghetto fixes. Flat head jeeps, tractors, welders, lawnmowers. I wouldn’t replace a head gasket on one that wasn’t visibly broken. Copper coat will save and make reusable just about any of those. If re-using a head gasket I just give the head bolts a couple extra pounds of torque to make a seal, with copper coat of course.
 
FleshEater said:
It is. But I already ordered everything to install synthetic line. It’s so much lighter.
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Yes plus I had an issue the when I need the winch badly it had gotten tangled up and I could not fix it on the trail. That was my biggest reason for going to the syth line as it is much easier to repair if there is an issue
 
crispins said:
Yes plus I had an issue the when I need the winch badly it had gotten tangled up and I could not fix it on the trail. That was my biggest reason for going to the syth line as it is much easier to repair if there is an issue
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I'm having that issue worse with synthetic than steel, if you're not careful and you pull hard with only a bit of line out, it will bed down between the other lines. Some one told me to criss cross it when spooling it in, instead of nice and pretty like with steel. This helps, but doesn't seem to solve it. Add snow and ice for extra frustration. This is on 5 different winches from 4k to 20k I've had this issue also. I'm not convinced yet that synthetic is the best, at least for my uses.

How are you doing a field repair? The 1/4" cheapo line on my 6k SxS winch will not hold a square knot it just slide out unless it's a super super light pull.
 
crispins said:
Yes plus I had an issue the when I need the winch badly it had gotten tangled up and I could not fix it on the trail. That was my biggest reason for going to the syth line as it is much easier to repair if there is an issue
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My cable was all tangled like a bitch, too, with a bunch of flat spots. Probably cheap ass cable coming from HF.
 
I got impatient tonight (couldn’t help myself). The new valve came from Rock Auto today, but I’m STILL waiting on my brass wheels to clean everything up.

I have cylinder #1 very well cleaned, so I said fawk it and lapped the new valves in. Put the spark plug in and filled it with Seafoam. Hit it with the air compressor and no bubbles! Back in business! :smokin:

I’m still not real certain how to put this all back together so that the valves open and close when they need to, but researching that now.
 
FleshEater said:
I got impatient tonight (couldn’t help myself). The new valve came from Rock Auto today, but I’m STILL waiting on my brass wheels to clean everything up.

I have cylinder #1 very well cleaned, so I said fawk it and lapped the new valves in. Put the spark plug in and filled it with Seafoam. Hit it with the air compressor and no bubbles! Back in business! :smokin:

I’m still not real certain how to put this all back together so that the valves open and close when they need to, but researching that now.
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bro super easy.

roll the crank over untill you are on the back side of the cam profile (the no lift at all side) then set your gap using your feeler gauges.

Can do them all in under 30 mins.

really easy.

Don't listen to the internet way that is overly complicated.

Nothing to it at all.
 
Spent a lot of time cleaning the head and block surfaces. Wasn’t bright and shiny like I wanted but it was all smooth. I used a razor blade and brass wheels on the drill for over an hour.

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Did the crank seal tonight, finished lapping all the new valves in, checked them all to insure a good seal, and got the head bolted back down.

Timing belt needs to go on next, adjust all the valves and then I’m doing a leak down test before buttoning everything back up.

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I also got the winch mounted and wired up. Just waiting on the fairlead.

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Of course we got snow tonight and this is still down. Ugh.
 
DMG said:
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I have everything lined up perfectly. Just nervous since I’ve never done this before. Just never had to do a head gasket or a timing belt...first for everything I guess.

I’m also an overthinker to the max.
 
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DMG said:
Installing a timing belt isn’t a bad time to be an overthinker
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Especially on an interference engine. Luckily this isn’t.

It all makes sense in my head to some degree. I never removed the distributor so I don’t have to deal with that. Everything “should” be perfectly in line. I’ll see more once I get the belt on and turn over the engine by hand to see how the valves work.
 
sometimes you have to loosen the tensioner bolt to wiggle it a bit and get all the slack on the tensioners side. then work it on.
 
DMG said:
sometimes you have to loosen the tensioner bolt to wiggle it a bit and get all the slack on the tensioners side. then work it on.
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Yes - that!

If you can help it when you slide the belt on the cogged pulleys make sure any slack is on the tensioner side. Then double check your timing marks after you tension it properly.
 
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Heating it up and sliding it onto the tensioner was the ticket.

I got all the valves adjusted. Leak down test showed 0 leaks in all four cylinders. Getting close and I can’t wait to start it up!!!

Low Range Off Road did me a solid today. I noticed my order wasn’t shipping so I called. They said my pulley was back ordered out two weeks. So I asked if they could ship the timing belt cover now. They instantly sent me shipping notification and I’m pretty sure they did it on their dime.

Also, I’m a sucker for painting parts. :flipoff2:
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Little bit of semi-gloss black goes a long ways. I always jazz up parts a little when its apart and I have some downtime.
 
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