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1991 Snow Tracker Build

The ones he kept breaking were from Oreillys, that’s where I got mine from when I figured it out, I got a set from Vatozone to see if they were the same and they are the tri-pot as well. I assume it’s a shaft that fits something else that doesn’t need the travel, aftermarket company makes one shaft that fits a few different vehicles.

I would love to find where to get the OEM style shafts.

I even went as far as taking apart an aftermarket and seeing if a little work with the die grinder on the cup would yield a little more droop. The issue is the shaft itself is almost too short and at full droop it pulls one of the bearings almost all the way out of the cup.

I believe it. Sucks because I didn’t know, and all my OEM needed was a new boot. Should’ve just booted it.

I’m thinking I don’t want to drop that Zuk axle in a foot of snow, drop the Geo, and pull an axle shaft from another.

I’ll order up a new one and just swap it in when it shows up.

Think I can sneak those strut spacers off without removing the lower bolts? I don’t want to dick with my camber again.
 
You can get the strut spacer out without taking the two bottom bolts out, but you won’t get the new shaft in without taking them out. You have to let the knuckle lay way over to get the shaft into the diff then into the hub. Unless you have some cheat code because we could never do passenger side shafts with out taking the strut bolts out.
 
I forgot about having to do that.

Did you guys try drooping the control arms all the way down and trying to squeeze the new CV’s in that way?
 
The drivers side you can finagle in without taking the knuckle off, even then it’s still tricky. Passenger side pull strut/knuckle bolts, droop the arm and lay the knuckle over.

I can’t remember if we had a trick for quick swapping them back in the day, it’s been probably 15 years since we all had these things. :lmao:
 
The drivers side you can finagle in without taking the knuckle off, even then it’s still tricky. Passenger side pull strut/knuckle bolts, droop the arm and lay the knuckle over.

I can’t remember if we had a trick for quick swapping them back in the day, it’s been probably 15 years since we all had these things. :lmao:

Crazy how you can drop the front axle housing and pull the shaft with no issue.
 
You are running a spacer lift?

It really puts the front CVs at a bad angle esp when they are drooped down.

The diff rotation kit from Russia that I installed seems to really put them at a better angle.

I beat the shit out of mine yesterday for 9 hours and had no issues, I feel like the kit helped me a lot.

Where did you get the diff kit from?
 
Where did you get the diff kit from?
this one



s-l1600.jpg
 
Thanks!

Did you install that without dropping the whole housing?
With my drop kit I had to grind a bit off the web on the 3rd member to make it clear the frame. I had my front diff out a hand full of times so that I could get it right with out grinding to much. I’m not going to lay down in the mud to take a picture. This rib on the bottom contacted the cross member but I was able to buff enough off with a flap wheel to make it clear. Had to take more material off than I wanted to though.
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I’m actually thinking about buying some chains. Once the trails get packed down it’ll all turn to ice. Any thawing and freezing will make them even worse.
 
There is a group of guys in the new England area on here, even has a thread on it in gen4x4. rattlewagon im pretty sure.

Just make sure they'll clear the body. :laughing:

CHAIN GANG!! Lol. I love my chains.

 
CHAIN GANG!! Lol. I love my chains.


I’m watching that thread and going to get a set of chains. Might buy a set now and see about making my own for the front during the summer months.
 
It would be an expensive modification at first but I have often thought about doing the bolt together plunge style CV like Porsche and VW used. You would have to machine the stock ends down on your CV's to have the flange required along with getting the shaft lengthened\shortened to length you need but after that the actual CV joint (where 99% of failures are) is replaceable in minutes with like 6 bolts so you can carry a spare in tool kit.

 
It would be an expensive modification at first but I have often thought about doing the bolt together plunge style CV like Porsche and VW used. You would have to machine the stock ends down on your CV's to have the flange required along with getting the shaft lengthened\shortened to length you need but after that the actual CV joint (where 99% of failures are) is replaceable in minutes with like 6 bolts so you can carry a spare in tool kit.


While good in theory it still would be just as much work to change out. There is no way to get the CV into the outer knuckle without dropping the strut. The way the arms are shaped won’t allow it. So you would still have to drop the whole arm.
 
Extra parts and custom machine work

Yeah that’s a pass on that one.


I keep waiting to acquire a HPD30 out of a Cherokee, the old switcheroo on the axle tubes to make it passenger drop probably the Cherokee 8.25 rear and some 35” Roxxzillas. Oh man.
 
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