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1990 idi banks turbo drunk purchase

AK_F250

AK_F250

Red Rocket
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
178
Messages
741
Loc
Alaska
We’ll, tipsy lol.
So this single cab long bed popped up and looked to be in decent shape. Rust in the wheel wells like every obs, floors looked solid. It’s a diesel with a 5 speed and banks turbo kit and an overdrive light flashing at me, obviously swapped. F250 with a d60 swap with 12 bolt h1’s and 37’s in great shape. It drove great and I gave the guy $4500. That seems in the realm of a good deal?
 
I sold a 91 F-Super Duty 7.3L with under 60k miles, zero rust, frame still had factory paint everywhere, for about that.
 
Tiha said:
In this market, yes that is a decent deal.

turbo IDI is pretty decent truck. Good purchase.
Click to expand...
People say "no power" but a friend hauled heavy loads with his F-Super Duty for 20+ years. 5 tons of firewood regularly, 10 ton dozer on a trailer, etc
 
I ran a 93 with a banks kit for years. Didn't like the step between 3rd and 4th in the E4OD but it ran great, held it's own. I had pulled plenty of trailers with it.

It really isn't that much less power than the stock power strokes of 95-98.
Granted the powerstrokes are quieter and feel snappier they really pulled about the same.

Simple trucks, still thinking about putting one in a bronco.
 
Tiha said:
I ran a 93 with a banks kit for years. Didn't like the step between 3rd and 4th in the E4OD but it ran great, held it's own. I had pulled plenty of trailers with it.

It really isn't that much less power than the stock power strokes of 95-98.
Granted the powerstrokes are quieter and feel snappier they really pulled about the same.

Simple trucks, still thinking about putting one in a bronco.
Click to expand...
I have a 97. The idle to start going on the throttle is annoying as shit. Idle, 1/8" more pedal movement and it's like I dead legged the thing. May end up removing the idle validation switch and see if that helps.
 
I liked my IDIT. I added a 6.0 intercooler, which is like made to fit the front core support with minor trimming. and loved it. If it had been a crew cab truck, i might still have it. It would have gotten a Moose pump, injectors, stud and a bigger turbo then :grinpimp::grinpimp::grinpimp:


Also, they run nearly like a gas motor....That thing would straight up sit at the .gov and eat. Fan clutch would kick in when needed and it would just pull. Drop gears till it just sings.
 
AKnate said:
I have a 97. The idle to start going on the throttle is annoying as shit. Idle, 1/8" more pedal movement and it's like I dead legged the thing. May end up removing the idle validation switch and see if that helps.
Click to expand...
I have had that happen on a couple different trucks, in one case it was crappy chip programming.
In the other case it was the rheostat, someone put a crappy cheap replacement in.
I however replaced with another crappy cheap replacement but it did work better.

that whole pedal setup seems like overkill lol
 
Tiha said:
I have had that happen on a couple different trucks, in one case it was crappy chip programming.
In the other case it was the rheostat, someone put a crappy cheap replacement in.
I however replaced with another crappy cheap replacement but it did work better.

that whole pedal setup seems like overkill lol
Click to expand...
I replaced the pedal sensor hoping it would clear up that issue as well as a trans shifting issue. If anything, made it worse.
 
19A2F1F4-7487-4306-8135-2B3E69E2FD6E.jpeg
6BB72C39-6C4D-4851-ABCE-F29661394CBC.jpeg
564E0C15-F813-487A-BABC-C33E8B70F3A0.jpeg
 
That's a pretty sweet IDI, I probably would have bought it too.

Tiha said:
I have had that happen on a couple different trucks, in one case it was crappy chip programming.
In the other case it was the rheostat, someone put a crappy cheap replacement in.
I however replaced with another crappy cheap replacement but it did work better.

that whole pedal setup seems like overkill lol
Click to expand...
Mine was that way, better tunes made the pedal control much better. Definitely want to be OEM only on all the sensors, the aftermarket ones are all crap and make them run as such.
 
Nice brick nose
Amazing it's that solid up there!
Decent $$$ I think:beer:
I have a 93 idit,zf-5 4x4 sclb sub 60k.
 
Clb said:
Nice brick nose
Amazing it's that solid up there!
Decent $$$ I think:beer:
I have a 93 idit,zf-5 4x4 sclb sub 60k.
Click to expand...
Stuff doesn't rust that quickly. Not as nice as the desert, but nothing like the rust belt areas. Salt isn't used much on the roads and that helps a ton. I grew up in Maine, lucky to get 20 years out of a vehicle before it's rotted out.

Would have jizzed over the 90 F-Super Duty I had then. It looked like it had been sitting in the showroom a year before. Was Barrett Jackson level "miiinnnntt". Granted it was a flatbed work truck and not a brodozer pickemup.
 
JR4X said:
I know it’s not AK cold at the moment. But how does it seem to start?
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It seems to light right off so far. Way easier than the only other idi I have any experience with.

Just went to move it and the whole cluster is dead, so I need to figure that and the inop drivers window out now. Being a 5 speed conversion there are probably a few interesting wiring creations that I’ll have to fix.
 
nice ass truck in my book. MY drunk purchases are way worse than that


inspiration?:flipoff2:
 
Haven't touched the thing but I'm probably going to dive in tomorrow. Anywhere I should start with the dead dash? I'd like to at least get the fuel gauge working so I know what's in the tanks, but I'd guess the whole thing has a common problem. I had the same 1990 F250 gas version, but that was almost 20 years ago and I forgot most of what I know about them.
 
It's not a GM. The instrument cluster is generally reliable. I'd look for a blown fuse or other power/ground problem that would effect the whole cluster.
 
My grandpa had an 85 F250 go dead dash and it was from the body ground and ground issues. Before getting it fixed, hitting the brake pedal would Peg the tach out. Let off the brake tach would go back to normal
 
It is unlikely the fuel gauges will read correct anyhow. There is no available replacement for the float that is supposed to provide the reading. Also, most have had the showerhead fall off in the tank so it runs dry at a 1/4 tank. Keeping track of the mileage or your gaiges may work halfway. Mine would read twice over full, then run out somewhere between 1/3 and 1/4 empty.
 
Ignition switch- give it a shot its cheap

Try slowly rolling the key to see if you get the gauges to come online.

My 85 F250 would start and run just fine but the gauges would not read unless the key was just in the right spot. Eventually they just wouldnt come on at all. Replaced the ignition switch and the problem went away. Not the tumbler, but the switch that the rod actuates under the dash

The switches get the contacts worn away that supply power to the cluster
 
Jbevs said:
It is unlikely the fuel gauges will read correct anyhow. There is no available replacement for the float that is supposed to provide the reading. Also, most have had the showerhead fall off in the tank so it runs dry at a 1/4 tank. Keeping track of the mileage or your gaiges may work halfway. Mine would read twice over full, then run out somewhere between 1/3 and 1/4 empty.
Click to expand...
Does the idi use some different float? Because last I checked you could get them on Amazon. I replaced them on mine, along with the shower head
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It's been a little too long for me, sold that truck 4 years ago after letting it sit for a few more. Both my tanks had that issue, and everything I remember reading at that time was there is no good, reliable fix due to the parts not being available. The shower heads have been, but if the sending units are now available that will help a lot of people.
 
Bringing this back to the top. I haven't driven it for months or worked on anything but now that it's cold glow plug and lots of cranking to start, which I understand to be normal for an idi? It's also sat since a few weeks after the OP if that makes a difference.

Injectors, injection pumps and glow plugs are dirt cheap compared to the diesels I'm used to owning. Is it worth throwing those parts at it and do I want to upgrade since it has a turbo? I'm a flatbill cummins bro and have no experience with ford diesels other than a couple 2004 6.0 work trucks and a fleet of their Navistar big brother internationals 10 years ago.
 
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