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1989 Jeep Cherokee 1 ton swap

fl0w3n is that the NAXJA thing they have on Memorial Day weekend? If so I’m really thinking about it. A year ago it was my goal. I laugh thinking about that now because it would have been an absolute 100% thrash to get it anywhere near this. You going?
 
fl0w3n is that the NAXJA thing they have on Memorial Day weekend? If so I’m really thinking about it. A year ago it was my goal. I laugh thinking about that now because it would have been an absolute 100% thrash to get it anywhere near this. You going?
Yes Memorial Day NAXJA event. I am planning on going. Never been but heard it’s a good time
 
Scoring
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Two broken teeth. You can see these in the previous post on the previous page.
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Carrier marks. There are two on the other side. Nothing else.
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Sterling 10.25 shit. Apparently if you buy gears, and DON’T know what you’re doing you learn things.
I made some setup bearings on the pinion, reused the exact same shims I had with the 4.10 gears and got closer. Moved the pinion closer because I like making life difficult, and went back to what I had originally, plus 0.010 for additional carrier bearing pre load, and ended up pretty nicely patterned.
0.009” backlash. Spec for a Sterling rear is apparently 8-12. I tested with 25-30 inch pounds of rotational torque on used bearings because it’s what I had. I also learned the smaller pinion bearing is NOT slip on, and will need to be pushed on with the yoke. Fun times.


TL;DR
5.13 year pattern. 3rd try.

Drive
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Coast
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Pattern is not very clear? I found it helps to have someone rotate the pinion nut while you put a lot resistance on the carrier. I used a box end wrench on a ring gear bolt.
 
I’d need a friend in order to do that.

It’s mostly the photo. The lighting, dirty camera, and my lack of give a damn at the moment was a combination of the photo above. I also used the yellow print in the gears I didn’t paint as an indicator of gear pattern. For some reason the coast side printed easier than the drive side. Still….contact patch is what it is, and the coast side toe and heal seem to stay on the ring gear MORE after the crush sleeve was crushed with many ugga duggas. Before this photo and before the crush sleeve the coast side was closer to the carrier as if the pinion gear wasn’t contacting the ring gear more than maybe 85%.

I think of you zoom in hella close on the first two or three fully painted gears you can see the coast pattern a little better.
 
character building. The benefit of the tie rod is it will stop the carrier from flying out when I pry on the bolt heads. Also….this looks small after working on the rear carrier.
 

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Pulling the driver side carrier bearing was interesting. The new Vevor (Yukon knockoff) bearing puller worked fine. The bearing is just extremely close to the carrier and it doesn’t leave much room for getting the puller under the bearing itself. The puller also pinched a shim but I guess shims are much cheaper than the bearing. I have setup bearings to use for the carrier. I’ll probably just make a set using the die grinder for the pinion.
oh and I was super nerdy and actually installed the ring gear WITHOUT pulling it on using the bolts. i smacked the ring gear with a dead blow hammer a bunch of times, then snugged up the bolts to keep it centered, and did a final torque once the ring gear was as far on as i thought I could get it. I’m glad I did since it seemed to pull the ring gear onto the carrier just a little bit more. The ring gear seemed to take more force than the rear did for getting it onto the carrier, so maybe it’s the ring gear/carrier tolerances, or maybe its just the difference between Dana and Ford figments.
I put the bearing caps, bearings, shims and races on a paper towel marked passenger/driver and top/bottom so I don’t lose them. Maybe I’ll post photos later.
 
the orange cup with the bearing puller just didn’t fully close because there wasn’t enough space under the cage. It worked, and I was entirely prepared to accept a destroyed bearing.
the photo is of a setup bearing in place. When I calms the bearing puller around it you can see the bearing rise when the clamshell is fully closed.

The first photo is the shim stack I bent. Obviously it was the clamshell pulling the shim up into the bearing.
 

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Pinion gear removed. It’s marked +2 which is great. Too bad the new pinion ISN’T marked. :mad3: Thanks a LOT USA Gear.

Setup bearings will be made. Shim stack off the pinion will go on the new one, and I’ll get preload set. My sweet bearing puller definitely paid for itself with one gear swap.

Factory pinion shim is 64 thousandths.
Slonger/baffle/big shiny frisbee looking thing is 28 thousandths.

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Pinion markings
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8 teeth on the 5.13.
10 teeth on the 4.10.
Same yoke works which is great after the Sterling switching to a long yoke.


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Something like 0.056” shim is 20-30 inch pounds of rotational torque. Good enough for me. It’s probably going to change when I put new races and cones in.

This is what 2.5 hours of work looks like. Narrowed down the shim stack using math and stuff. Also the Yukon instructions about adding shims to decrease preload. I’m glad Calculus 2 came into play. Really felt like I was just wasting brain space knowing about derivations and factorials.
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Front ring and pinion test fit. This was a fun process in ‘what was I thinking when I did that?’

I need to torque the ring gear bolts more and loctite them.
New races have to be hammered in.
Carrier bearings need to be pressed on.
After all this I can get another pattern.

Current backlash is 0.005” which is too tight. Spec is 6-10. I’d expect the backlash to increase once everything above is done.

Pattern looks good to me. I had to move the pinion in something like 0.003” and move shims from the driver side to the passenger side to get backlash set.


Drive side. There is the SLIGHTEST gap between the paint and the face of the tooth on the drive side. Pinion is not contacting the Flank at all. Biased to the toe side.
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Coast side
Gap between the face and the pint is larger than on the drive side. Pinning not contacting the flank.
Slightly biased to the heel side.
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Diff cover back on. I took one reading for backlash and it was 0.005”. Spec is 6-10. I’m guessing and hoping it will loosen up when I put some power to it and wear it all in.
I put the diff cover back on. I’m pretty sure this was a ‘defect’ I saved money buying. The bolt holes are off so I started to run threads, then I ruined them some more. Eventually I pulled out the Harbor Freight tap and die kit to fix some threads.
I opted for RTV instead of a lube locker up front. Mostly because I was tired of waiting, and I’d like this out of the garage so I can work with FordFascist on making rear bump stops then maybe take it on a test drive before installing my hydro assist. Maybe then I can take it for a shake down…two years after I started this project.

I put the spindles on and stopped. Mostly because Stage 8 lock nuts and Yukon hubs take effort and a level of give a damn I don’t have tonight.

Random photo below.
I hate the rust and give up having nice things spray painted with Rustoleum.

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I’m also annoyed with myself about not fully painting shit the first time and having surface rust now
 
Oh I painted it. Not sure what I did wrong though. It flakes off some parts and just doesn’t stop rust on others. Maybe I should have paid for powder costing.
 
Oh I painted it. Not sure what I did wrong though. It flakes off some parts and just doesn’t stop rust on others. Maybe I should have paid for powder costing.
I used the same paint on basically all the parts in my scout. It has been on there a few years and has been through a few dunks in mud and water and looks fine. I spent a long time with a wire wheel until the whole part was shiny and had no more rust left on it before painting.
 
I used the same paint on basically all the parts in my scout. It has been on there a few years and has been through a few dunks in mud and water and looks fine. I spent a long time with a wire wheel until the whole part was shiny and had no more rust left on it before painting.
Interesting. Maybe I didn't spend long enough with the wire wheel. I've kind of accepted the rust is just Cherokee blood and this will never be perfect. Maybe after a few years of wheeling it I'll get ambitious again. Right now I want to figure out my EcoBox (lever, planetary, not being cheap, skid plate), rear bumps, and go wheeling.
 
Hubs installed. Again. For probably the 10th time. It’s hard to turn the wheels and there still isn’t gear oil. Either I’ll get lucky and things will loosen up, or I’m doing this all over again to increase backlash. Hopefully I get lucky.
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Either the online calculator is wrong, OR my overdrive doesn’t work on two different transmissions.


5.13 gears.
60 MPH measure by gps.
2,900 RPMs
38-40” tire. They’re ACTUALLY 30” and 40s measure it.


I actually don’t notice much difference between 4.10 and 5.13. I was fully expecting to be able to get up to 60 MPH WAAAAAY easier and it’s still slow as fuck. Now it just screams down the highway at 3,000 RPMs.
 
LS swap it :flipoff2:
If I could go back to the start i would, but then again if I could go back I wouldn’t start with a Cherokee.
Really you don’t notice any off the line difference?
No not really. Maybe slightly, but it’s not instantly a hot rod like I was expecting. Still takes forever to get up to 60, and I’m upset I’m pushing 3k RPMs down the highway.
 
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