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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

My goal for this is simplicity. Like aiming for as few wires as possible. Keep everything SIMPLE. Propane seemed the most simple. Expensive, but so is any new EFI system. Propane tanks also don’t leak like gas.

If I hate propane I can change down the road.
EFI is simple but most people are scared of it. It is reliable as well and it’s simple enough to figure out if you have an issue. Most people see all the wires and freak out and their mine locks up. The simple (which this engine would fit under) EFI only requires a hand full of sensors to operate correctly.

I started off with a carbed 22R in 2000 and it wasn’t a year later and I converted it over to EFI from several scrapped 22RE engines and vehicles. I never looked back after that.

When people go to propane fuel packages, it just tells me that EFI scares them away so they go to the fart gas. Fawk that, I’d hate to have to lug around fart gas tanks and if you run out on a trail, no one can help you. We always carried a marine fuel hose with the primer bulb in it on our rigs. I used mine as a fuel tank vent hose. Take it off and it doubled as a fuel syphon hose to transfer fuel from one rig to another

Are you a simpleton or willing to make the gray matter work between your ears and go EFI?

EFI… EFI… EFI… :smokin::flipoff2:
 
EFI is simple but most people are scared of it. It is reliable as well and it’s simple enough to figure out if you have an issue. Most people see all the wires and freak out and their mine locks up. The simple (which this engine would fit under) EFI only requires a hand full of sensors to operate correctly.

I started off with a carbed 22R in 2000 and it wasn’t a year later and I converted it over to EFI from several scrapped 22RE engines and vehicles. I never looked back after that.

When people go to propane fuel packages, it just tells me that EFI scares them away so they go to the fart gas. Fawk that, I’d hate to have to lug around fart gas tanks and if you run out on a trail, no one can help you. We always carried a marine fuel hose with the primer bulb in it on our rigs. I used mine as a fuel tank vent hose. Take it off and it doubled as a fuel syphon hose to transfer fuel from one rig to another

Are you a simpleton or willing to make the gray matter work between your ears and go EFI?

EFI… EFI… EFI… :smokin::flipoff2:

Definitely no fear of EFI.

Apparently you guys don’t carry gas cans when you travel? I do. I had gas cans the whole time on the last trip down to Kansas and Missouri.

Propane is not easy to top off, but carrying two tanks and one on the rig is not a big deal.
 
Definitely no fear of EFI.

Apparently you guys don’t carry gas cans when you travel? I do. I had gas cans the whole time on the last trip down to Kansas and Missouri.

Propane is not easy to top off, but carrying two tanks and one on the rig is not a big deal.
Yeah we carried gas cans but sometimes shit happens and people forget to top off.
 
Definitely no fear of EFI.

Apparently you guys don’t carry gas cans when you travel? I do. I had gas cans the whole time on the last trip down to Kansas and Missouri.

Propane is not easy to top off, but carrying two tanks and one on the rig is not a big deal.

It's just not as easy as gas. 99% of rigs on the trail these days will be gas, so easy to bum gas. Also propane tanks take up retarded amout of space for the fuel capacity. I couldn't fit an 8g LP tank where my 16g fuel cell is for example.

I'd think with all your trackers, you would have the parts to do efi for free. 8v stuff should work on the 1.3. It's only like a dozen wires for that whole efi once you strip it down. If my 19 yr old dumb ass could figure it out, I'm sure you can.

That being said, if you like the idea of it, go for it. Grab a few extra tanks and rock out. Make sure to get them inspected and stamped so you don't have issues filling them on out of state trips (been there :homer:)

Also, grab one of those adapters to use a little green camp stove can. Might be enough to get back to the trailer at least.
 
It's just not as easy as gas. 99% of rigs on the trail these days will be gas, so easy to bum gas. Also propane tanks take up retarded amout of space for the fuel capacity. I couldn't fit an 8g LP tank where my 16g fuel cell is for example.

I'd think with all your trackers, you would have the parts to do efi for free. 8v stuff should work on the 1.3. It's only like a dozen wires for that whole efi once you strip it down. If my 19 yr old dumb ass could figure it out, I'm sure you can.

That being said, if you like the idea of it, go for it. Grab a few extra tanks and rock out. Make sure to get them inspected and stamped so you don't have issues filling them on out of state trips (been there :homer:)

Also, grab one of those adapters to use a little green camp stove can. Might be enough to get back to the trailer at least.

Unfortunately all I have is 16V stuff. I do have a spare intake and throttle body set up off a 95’, but I’m not sure if it will bolt up to the 8V head.

The newer propane bottles I’ve seen lately are much smaller and lighter than they were 20 years ago.

Either way cost is a wash. Fuel cells are pricey and so is propane.
 
I'm not agreeing with the propane hate at all especially to say people run it because they're afraid to go efi.:lmao:

Some of my favorite samurais and toyotas were turbo propane rigs. They ran for 6-8+ hours a day on one tank. I used the green small tank once as a "reserve" to get back to the trailer for a 2nd tank.

Not sure if it's more of a location thing or what but it's more than readily available here everywhere for dirt cheap.

Not sure if you guys wheel for days but a tank last a good amount of time. And also in 20 years of wheeling the northeast I've never had to "borrow" fuel or seen anyone have to borrow fuel. Maybe it's because we can't get lost for days wheeling? It's usually a set smaller area.

I'm not saying propane is the end all and doesn't have its cons like all other options as well. And I'm not saying it's a good option for everyone in every location but for here in the Northeast on a trailered buggy with a smaller engine it's a great option especially with a turbo added.


And I lie, the 2 stroke dirt bike guys are usually looking to bum gas, about it.
 
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What's the specs on the case and all the other goodies wrapped in plastic?
 
What's the specs on the case and all the other goodies wrapped in plastic?

W56 to doubler.

Specs straight from YotaAtietoo. Had to copy them into my notes to remember. :homer:

“Marlin r10 23 spline adapter

Marlin 23 spline 4.7 gears

Marlin 30 spline chromo front out put

Longfield chromo rear out put

4x innovations bomb proof mounts (need bushings)

Have a 70% complete spare tcase and a spare crawl box housing also

W56 actually came from the late Lil yota, and I think he said it worked fine.”

Because the transfer case and crawl box got burnt I have to split them and check bearings, then redo all the gaskets.
 
I'm not agreeing with the propane hate at all especially to say people run it because they're afraid to go efi.:lmao:

No hate here, just think efi is better most of time. I'd love propane turbo on my samurai if I could fit a tank somewhere.

Some of my favorite samurais and toyotas were turbo propane rigs. They ran for 6-8+ hours a day on one tank. I used the green small tank once as a "reserve" to get back to the trailer for a 2nd tank.

Not sure if it's more of a location thing or what but it's more than readily available here everywhere for dirt cheap.

most gas stations ive seen in all the western states have propane. Plus tractor supplies, uhaul, ect. Although you have to have someone come out and fill the tank vs being able to just go to a gas pump pretty much 24/7

Not sure if you guys wheel for days but a tank last a good amount of time. And also in 20 years of wheeling the northeast I've never had to "borrow" fuel or seen anyone have to borrow fuel. Maybe it's because we can't get lost for days wheeling? It's usually a set smaller area.

I've had to bum gas many times :laughing:

especially snow runs, running 1-3 psi and pushing snow eats a ton of fuel.

I'm not saying propane is the end all and doesn't have its cons like all other options as well. And I'm not saying it's a good option for everyone in every location but for here in the Northeast on a trailered buggy with a smaller engine it's a great option especially with a turbo added.

totally agree

And I lie, the 2 stroke dirt bike guys are usually looking to bum gas, about it.

Darn it :flipoff2: I used to run out of gas all the time on my rm250, but only once on My xc300 :laughing:
 
Unfortunately all I have is 16V stuff. I do have a spare intake and throttle body set up off a 95’, but I’m not sure if it will bolt up to the 8V head.

The newer propane bottles I’ve seen lately are much smaller and lighter than they were 20 years ago.

Either way cost is a wash. Fuel cells are pricey and so is propane.

Ya, I don't think 16v stuff will jive with a 1.3.

Fuel cells are cheap. Quick Google shows lots of options under $150 for 10-17g cells. If you had an 8v donor, it would be a no brainer imo. If you don't, I get the draw to propane.
 
Unfortunately all I have is 16V stuff. I do have a spare intake and throttle body set up off a 95’, but I’m not sure if it will bolt up to the 8V head.

No, a 16v intake manifold won’t bolt on an 8v head (trackick or samurai).
A trackick 8v intake manifold will bolt to a samurai head and vice versa. I’ve heard of lots of guys bolting the samurai intake and carb onto a 1.6 8v when doing the 1.6 swap. Dumb, IMO, instead of running the EFI.
 
No, a 16v intake manifold won’t bolt on an 8v head (trackick or samurai).
A trackick 8v intake manifold will bolt to a samurai head and vice versa. I’ve heard of lots of guys bolting the samurai intake and carb onto a 1.6 8v when doing the 1.6 swap. Dumb, IMO, instead of running the EFI.

I almost did this almost 20 years ago. Once I realized there was no spot for a fuel pump, I said screw it and wired in the efi with the stick tank in the bed. Was really easy and well worth it.

I tried to get op to do a 16v head on the 1.3 like the ham Sami, but he didn't go for it :flipoff2:
 
I'm not agreeing with the propane hate at all especially to say people run it because they're afraid to go efi.:lmao:

Some of my favorite samurais and toyotas were turbo propane rigs. They ran for 6-8+ hours a day on one tank. I used the green small tank once as a "reserve" to get back to the trailer for a 2nd tank.

Not sure if it's more of a location thing or what but it's more than readily available here everywhere for dirt cheap.

Not sure if you guys wheel for days but a tank last a good amount of time. And also in 20 years of wheeling the northeast I've never had to "borrow" fuel or seen anyone have to borrow fuel. Maybe it's because we can't get lost for days wheeling? It's usually a set smaller area.

I'm not saying propane is the end all and doesn't have its cons like all other options as well. And I'm not saying it's a good option for everyone in every location but for here in the Northeast on a trailered buggy with a smaller engine it's a great option especially with a turbo added.


And I lie, the 2 stroke dirt bike guys are usually looking to bum gas, about it.
Another down side to propane is good luck using it when it’s really cold out. It freezes up and doesn’t want to flow.
 
Another down side to propane is good luck using it when it’s really cold out. It freezes up and doesn’t want to flow.

That's not totally true. Propane boils at -44*F if you have everything set up properly it will work fine. Most propane kits will run coolant through the evaporator.

2 rigs in my current wheeling circle are propane, and haven't seen any issues snow wheeling at Temps well below freezing.
 
I’ve heard of lots of guys bolting the samurai intake and carb onto a 1.6 8v when doing the 1.6 swap. Dumb, IMO, instead of running the EFI.
Agreed on the performance front, but you can swap a 1.6 in 3h if you reuse all the carb bits or convert to propane at the same time.
I've done it with good success.
 
Agreed on the performance front, but you can swap a 1.6 in 3h if you reuse all the carb bits or convert to propane at the same time.
I've done it with good success.

The stock Sami carb works pretty darn well on angles for a carb.....when it's working right. My first Sami would pretty much run upside-down.
 
Got the head put back together.

Leak down test showed less than 5% per cylinder. Not bad for old rings. :smokin:

Cracked the distributor housing trying to use the o-ring I got in a kit from Rock Auto. So that sucks. Tony from HWY83Suzuki had them, so just ordered that. Now to find an o-ring to fit this stupid thing…

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Got the head put back together.

Leak down test showed less than 5% per cylinder. Not bad for old rings. :smokin:

Cracked the distributor housing trying to use the o-ring I got in a kit from Rock Auto. So that sucks. Tony from HWY83Suzuki had them, so just ordered that. Now to find an o-ring to fit this stupid thing…

I gotta ask, how did you crack the distributor housing trying to replace the o-ring?!?
 
The o-ring was either not the right size or I stupidly didn’t seat it all the way in. But I barely started tightening it down and it cracked and broke a chunk off.
 
The o-ring was either not the right size or I stupidly didn’t seat it all the way in. But I barely started tightening it down and it cracked and broke a chunk off.
Gotcha. The boss where the hold down bolt goes through broke then? That sucks for sure
 
Gotcha. The boss where the hold down bolt goes through broke then? That sucks for sure

Yes, a chunk within the o-ring area snapped off. I considered JB Weld, then figured it would never seal right.

Tony had everything I needed. Going to compare his o-ring to the one I got in this kit. Guessing his will be thinner.

It’s hard sizing o-rings that are 30 years old and flat and brittle. :laughing:
 
Yes, a chunk within the o-ring area snapped off. I considered JB Weld, then figured it would never seal right.

Tony had everything I needed. Going to compare his o-ring to the one I got in this kit. Guessing his will be thinner.

It’s hard sizing o-rings that are 30 years old and flat and brittle. :laughing:
I’ve run into this before but didn’t break anything :flipoff2: Mostly fawking with Toyota engines through the years rebuilding and modifying them. A bit difficult to get a new o-ring in the block is one thing but when it’s too fat to fit without forcing it, time to check what’s up.

I can see it happening tho.

Oh, go EFI and don’t look back :smokin::flipoff2:
 
Yes, a chunk within the o-ring area snapped off. I considered JB Weld, then figured it would never seal right.

Tony had everything I needed. Going to compare his o-ring to the one I got in this kit. Guessing his will be thinner.

It’s hard sizing o-rings that are 30 years old and flat and brittle. :laughing:
A google search would have given you the OEM part numbers for the orings and you could have likely cross referenced those at an oring suppliers website to come up with the sizes. Or a google search may have given you the sizes, instead of having to try and measure and guess.
I did not confirm any of the info in the link, but this is what I found by a quick search.
 
I’m getting ready to put an order in with Trail Tough.

Anybody know why I couldn’t switch my alternator and then run a double belt crank pulley from a Track/Kick on this engine for my full hydro?
 
I’m getting ready to put an order in with Trail Tough.

Anybody know why I couldn’t switch my alternator and then run a double belt crank pulley from a Track/Kick on this engine for my full hydro?
As long as your ratio is close to where it needs to be at for your pump there shouldn’t be any reason why not too imo
 
I’m getting ready to put an order in with Trail Tough.

Anybody know why I couldn’t switch my alternator and then run a double belt crank pulley from a Track/Kick on this engine for my full hydro?
You will need to drill holes in the pulley so it will fit the lower timing cog. The samurai is 4 bolt, the trackick is 5. Use the samurai pulley as a template to drill the trackick pulley. One hole lines up between the two. Just don’t bolt them back to back to drill it or the holes will be off. Also, when you use the trackick pulley on a samurai the timing mark will be off about 5* IIRC. You can use a chisel to make a new timing mark on the pulley.
 
You will need to drill holes in the pulley so it will fit the lower timing cog. The samurai is 4 bolt, the trackick is 5. Use the samurai pulley as a template to drill the trackick pulley. One hole lines up between the two. Just don’t bolt them back to back to drill it or the holes will be off. Also, when you use the trackick pulley on a samurai the timing mark will be off about 5* IIRC. You can use a chisel to make a new timing mark on the pulley.
There ya go ^ this guy knows.
 
You will need to drill holes in the pulley so it will fit the lower timing cog. The samurai is 4 bolt, the trackick is 5. Use the samurai pulley as a template to drill the trackick pulley. One hole lines up between the two. Just don’t bolt them back to back to drill it or the holes will be off. Also, when you use the trackick pulley on a samurai the timing mark will be off about 5* IIRC. You can use a chisel to make a new timing mark on the pulley.

Was going to day this, but not as good :flipoff2:

I redrilled mine and just run serp belts. I just felt the mix of 2 different belts was strange.:homer:
 
Got the engine back together (minus the timing belt cover :flipoff2:). I’m waiting for warmer weather to finish painting the valve cover. My paint is turning out terribly.

Also cracked open half of the t-case I got from YotaAtietoo today. Need bearings and seals and a lot of cleaner.

Then time to start tacking tubing together for this.

This process takes ten times longer recycling parts. :laughing::homer:

Anyways, pics.

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