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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

I wouldn't even think of making skid plates until it was a roller

You need to have the bushings way closer to the engine also, imo. I'd think about a tube that goes from left to right under the oil pan, then have mounts off of that. Or something coming from the skid in a similar shape to a frame rail.

That’s basically what I’m doing. However, the engine mounts are off set like 6” of each other, so one tube can’t tie in both. That’s why I was going to use the engine oil pan skid to tie them in. The starter, clutch cable, and oil filter are obstacles, too.

I figured out a way to put the bushings next to the engine instead.

This is all a lot trickier with no bender.
 
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The wife has nicknamed this Side Piece. :laughing:

Got the engine mounts worked out today. It’s so close to the oil filter and alternator. But it clears. Definitely not tying the oil pan skid into these mounts. I’ll deal with that at the end. Maybe tie into a front bumper/winch mount build out. I don’t know.

Ordered these to unbolt up near the chassis.
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Made some tabs and got the engine mounts done.

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Hopefully in a day or two I’ll be driving out to Byro’s shop to pick up seats for this. Thanks, Byro :smokin:
 
Mounted a seat today to see where everything is. Had to move the drivetrain forward a bit. My head is only 3.75” from the bars. I’m going to try and get the sear even lower into the belly for taller passengers. This is a SMALL buggy.

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does the seat hang out the cage?

No, not at all. I checked everywhere. It does look like it from that one pic. But it’s just the angle.

My buddy was over last night and he’s 6’2”. His head would be rubbing the bars. Hopefully I can sink this down an inch or so.

Sitting lower will give me a good view past the engine and axle to see.
 
No, not at all. I checked everywhere. It does look like it from that one pic. But it’s just the angle.

My buddy was over last night and he’s 6’2”. His head would be rubbing the bars. Hopefully I can sink this down an inch or so.

Sitting lower will give me a good view past the engine and axle to see.

I don’t fit in Greggys buggy either. I think yours and his are going to be very similar.

Drop the seat an inch and then cut the bottom pad foam. That will gain you 2” and sink you lower into the seat.
 
I don’t fit in Greggys buggy either. I think yours and his are going to be very similar.

Drop the seat an inch and then cut the bottom pad foam. That will gain you 2” and sink you lower into the seat.

It’s so comfy I’m not touching the pad. :laughing:

I’m able to drop it in the rear and maintain a 7 degree lean front to rear and get a lot of head clearance for taller passengers.

You are definitely a lot taller than I am. I don’t think anyone over 5’10” can drive this. But even your buddy’s Jeep I sat in was super tight. Just seems to be the nature of a buggy?
 
It’s so comfy I’m not touching the pad. :laughing:

I’m able to drop it in the rear and maintain a 7 degree lean front to rear and get a lot of head clearance for taller passengers.

You are definitely a lot taller than I am. I don’t think anyone over 5’10” can drive this. But even your buddy’s Jeep I sat in was super tight. Just seems to be the nature of a buggy?

Mine is 56” inches between the B pillars. Yours is a kids buggy compared to mine lol.
 
They were $798 for two through Summit Racing. Summit also accepts returns if you don’t like them.

Byro had them in stock and also let me sit in one before I took them out of the box.
Buggy's looking great. Have you considered a smaller style seat? I see those can be returned is why i'm asking. Seems like some of the other seat styles may be smaller and fit better. looks like a seat that didn't have the "wings" at the top could be mounted closer to the side of the chassis which may help you lower them.

Also just a thought......offset the drivetrain slightly to the passenger side. Even if it raises the passenger seat some the drivers seat IMO is more important. Its pretty common to have the seats at different heights.

Just some thoughts and Ideas on how to get the room you are looking for!!
 
Buggy's looking great. Have you considered a smaller style seat? I see those can be returned is why i'm asking. Seems like some of the other seat styles may be smaller and fit better. looks like a seat that didn't have the "wings" at the top could be mounted closer to the side of the chassis which may help you lower them.

Also just a thought......offset the drivetrain slightly to the passenger side. Even if it raises the passenger seat some the drivers seat IMO is more important. Its pretty common to have the seats at different heights.

Just some thoughts and Ideas on how to get the room you are looking for!!

I looked at a ton of smaller seats but they look horribly uncomfortable. I have back issues so the comfort will make or break this buggy for me.

So I actually need the passenger seat lower than the driver’s seat. I’m 5’10” and have 3.75” of clearance from the chassis to my skull, which is perfect. However, I have a couple buddies over 6’ and my oldest son looks like he’s headed for 6’+. Just making sure I can get it all as low as possible.

Coincidentally, although this drivetrain is stubbornly long, it’s not overly wide and I got it tucked way down in the belly. I think lowering the rear of the seat is going to make everything fit perfectly. I also have just enough room between the seats for my twin sticks.

No wings up top would be nicer for shifting, but might not be as comfy when getting wild in it. :laughing:
 
I run the PRP highback UTV seats in my buggy and I think they're very comfortable but everyone has different opinions on seats. Personally, I haven't liked any Corbeau seats I've sat in, in different wheeling rigs.

Packaging in small buggies is always a struggle and almost always requires some compromises. I'm 6'4" so I struggle to fit in a lot of buggies.

Here is a couple pics to show the head clearance I have in my buggy. The photos make it look like my head is close to the B pillar and the sound bar but it's actually not. I've got several inches of clearance.

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Got it back up to ride height-ish (belly is 17.75” from the floor). Skids will kill some ground clearance, but I don’t want to take it up past 18”. So glad to not be working on the floor anymore.

Have to burn in the transfer case mounts and it should all be stable.

Jacking this up I was almost dead center on the buggy. Literally like 5” forward of it. This is well balanced.

:smokin:

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Tonight everything just seemed to go “OK.”

Made new rear seat mounts that got me a lot more head room and sunk the seats down into the belly.

Need to tack in the passenger seat and check fitment. Then bend the crawl box shifter to fit between the seats, and seats should be done until I’m ready to mount belts. Reverse is pretty close to the passenger seat, but Marlin’s short throw shifter is stupidly priced.

After that it’s probably onto the floor while I scrape money together for wheels and tires and then set up my links.


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I'd really suggest not welding anything until you're done, makes it so much harder to change things when puzzle piece #7 doesn't agree with #3

I’m not welding much. Just tacking. I had to weld up the drivetrain mounts a bit just to hold them.

Floor, links, pedal assembly, steering wheel, etc, will just be tacked until finished.
 
looking good. Glad you were able to get the seats fit in at a height that works for you. They look very comfortable.
 
looking good. Glad you were able to get the seats fit in at a height that works for you. They look very comfortable.

Man they are SUPER comfy. Comfort is king in this build. It’s as important as function for my needs. :laughing:
 
So, pretty sure my floor is framed out. I have no ability to tie in tubing to the dash bar. Plan is to build out my gauge area (3 gauges) in a vertical line down, in heavier gauge material, and figure out a way to bolt it into the trans tunnel. The basic plan is to weld small trick tabs along the tubing and overlap the trans tunnel and floor for strength on the edges.

This buggy is so tight. The less interior the better.

Also like 80% certain all of my switches are going on the ceiling somehow. There’s no where I can reach them on the tunnel.

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small tubing like 3/4 or one inch and go from the window down between the seats, sure it get narrow as heck but now you have places for things,

i put my push button starter and ign jut forward of the shifter but out of the way because you will be able to reach that belted in for sure. and the bars could be made removable. all stuff that can be sorted out later but just an idea
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small tubing like 3/4 or one inch and go from the window down between the seats, sure it get narrow as heck but now you have places for things,

i put my push button starter and ign jut forward of the shifter but out of the way because you will be able to reach that belted in for sure. and the bars could be made removable. all stuff that can be sorted out later but just an idea
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Absolutely zero chance of me reaching forward of my shifter at all belted in. It’s not even possible. I’ve already checked. My gear shifter in 1st gear only allows me to reach about 3”-4” in front of that, and it’s so high it’s going to severely limit mine and the passenger’s knee room. But honestly, probably no need for any tubing if all that’s doing is holding gauges. The metal should be strong enough. Not like I’m sitting on it.

Mounting all my switches above is really the only option. But my plan is to keep this as minimally electrically driven as possible.

Should only be 6-7 small toggle switches.
 
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Dash? Center console? Trans tunnel?

Some expanded metal or perforated ally where your feet are and you’re done. You don’t want to block visibility.
 
Dash? Center console? Trans tunnel?

Some expanded metal or perforated ally where your feet are and you’re done. You don’t want to block visibility.

I was going to run a small tunnel up just to dissipate heat. It’s not a necessity, but it’s going to piss the wife off if she drops her phone down there wheeling. :laughing: The center only shouldn’t block any view.
 
These are pretty legit too. Each circuit has its own relay and fuse in the control box. Keeps wiring neat and clean. I have a few customers running them who didn’t want to fork out the money for the sPod version.

 
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