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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

All tacked up and I was itching to see it laid out. If I had to guess the axles will be higher with wheels and tires. My little jack stands were maxed out.

Roughly 17.5” belly height and 105” wheel base. Also tacked up some tube end caps.

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Fwiw 37s will be roughly 35s aired down. So you're pretty close at 17.5" axle centerline. Even axle tubes and belly sound about right for something like this.

I heard someone once say to build it to be as low as possible. Even if you smack belly all the time and hate it, it's always easier to lift something 2" than lower it 2".
 
The chassis resembles this buggy build chassis. One thing I like about it is the rocker panel tube he incorporated into the chassis. It gives a smooth radius for a slider effect as well as a bit of a step to climb into the buggy as well. Maybe something to consider adding to your chassis.

irate4x4.com

My Marsfab buggy

Care to elaborate? Not disagreeing with you, just curious on your reasons.
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

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I like the sliders how they currently are. Keeps the bottom much narrower and keeps weight down. I don’t see a need to add more .188 wall tubing pretty much doing the same thing as the current tubing.

Right now I’m trying to narrow down a seat. I really don’t like the idea of not being able to sit in one before committing to $300-$400 for one.

Corbeau looks way more comfortable than PRP, that’s for sure.
 
FleshEater said:
I like the sliders how they currently are. Keeps the bottom much narrower and keeps weight down. I don’t see a need to add more .188 wall tubing pretty much doing the same thing as the current tubing.

Right now I’m trying to narrow down a seat. I really don’t like the idea of not being able to sit in one before committing to $300-$400 for one.

Corbeau looks way more comfortable than PRP, that’s for sure.
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Just blindly spend 1k on seats like the rest of us :flipoff2: Order off Amazon and you get free returns within 30 days.
 
FleshEater said:
I like the sliders how they currently are. Keeps the bottom much narrower and keeps weight down. I don’t see a need to add more .188 wall tubing pretty much doing the same thing as the current tubing.

Right now I’m trying to narrow down a seat. I really don’t like the idea of not being able to sit in one before committing to $300-$400 for one.

Corbeau looks way more comfortable than PRP, that’s for sure.
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The blunt ends on your rocker tube is a rock catcher imo.

Last seats I bought were Corbeau and they were all day riding comfortable and kept you in the seat nicely. They soaked up harsh stuff really good too.
 
I see others have pointed this out but i'm going to post this anyway. Moving those 4 boat side tubes would make your chassis WAY WAY stronger. Currently the A and B pillar are resting on a pc of .120" wall that's not supported.

Not saying its going to fail or you going to die like the old place. Just saying that in a hard roll your chassis is likely to bend here which will be nearly impossible to fix. TRUST me when I tell you that fixing bent chassis suck bad bad. If that bar bends at the circles front or rear it will be easier to throw that chassis away and start a new one. V/s moving those 4 bars and its almost impossible for it to bend in a roll.

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If you want me to I'll delete this post!! Not trying to start any shit. Just trying to help!
 
at this stage you are only looking at a couple hours of rework. 8 new bars. some notching and done. but i do think it is worth looking into it. what even more odd to me is why not make that sub frame 6 inches longer and problem solved. not you make it 6 inches longer but why fabn 01 has not. good eye.. :beer:
 
I personally prefer my PRP highback UTV seats over any Corbeau I've ever sat in. I'm 6'3" 185lbs and they fit me very well.
 
Blase said:
I see others have pointed this out but i'm going to post this anyway. Moving those 4 boat side tubes would make your chassis WAY WAY stronger. Currently the A and B pillar are resting on a pc of .120" wall that's not supported.

Not saying its going to fail or you going to die like the old place. Just saying that in a hard roll your chassis is likely to bend here which will be nearly impossible to fix. TRUST me when I tell you that fixing bent chassis suck bad bad. If that bar bends at the circles front or rear it will be easier to throw that chassis away and start a new one. V/s moving those 4 bars and its almost impossible for it to bend in a roll.

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If you want me to I'll delete this post!! Not trying to start any shit. Just trying to help!
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So that’s on .188 wall tube. Not .120 wall. Everything from my sliders down is .188 wall. When I tie in for the floor boards it will add strength to it and horizontal support.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
at this stage you are only looking at a couple hours of rework. 8 new bars. some notching and done. but i do think it is worth looking into it. what even more odd to me is why not make that sub frame 6 inches longer and problem solved. not you make it 6 inches longer but why fabn 01 has not. good eye.. :beer:
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4 bars fix the issue. Very minimal work or materials. 8 would make it perfect but fixing all 8 would be a LOT more work and material. At this point I'd just fix the 4 at the corners of the belly and keep moving.

This is not a fabn 801 chassis. It looks a like it but its custom made based on the fabn 801 rock lizard per page 10.
 
FleshEater said:
So that’s on .188 wall tube. Not .120 wall. Everything from my sliders down is .188 wall. When I tie in for the floor boards it will add strength to it and horizontal support.
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Sounds good. I can't wait to see this come together! I like the parts list for sure.
 
8 bars meaning 4 on each side. the 4 verticals would need redone because the angle ben dangle will change a tiny bit and i think you would get a big gap in notch.

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Blase said:
Sounds good. I can't wait to see this come together! I like the parts list for sure.
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So this was the idea I was rolling around to add support for a trans tunnel and to help tie in the floor/seats. This would be with 1.5”x.120 wall tube.

No good?

The rear would also tie in front to back and side to side for panel and seat mounting. Nothing is set in stone yet. I need a seat in my hands and then see how the drivetrain fits.
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Another thing that may give you trouble is the horizontal tube at the bottom between the B pillars. Hard to tell for sure in the pics, but that tube may be in the way of the t-case output flange/driveshaft.

You can see in these pics of my chassis that the t-case output is pretty high on the Toyota t-case and how the chassis was designed to accommodate that.

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untchabl said:
Another thing that may give you trouble is the horizontal tube at the bottom between the B pillars. Hard to tell for sure in the pics, but that tube may be in the way of the t-case output flange/driveshaft.

You can see in these pics of my chassis that the t-case output is pretty high on the Toyota t-case and how the chassis was designed to accommodate that.

PXL_20210521_174624267.jpg
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Is yours clocked at all? Mine is clocked I believe 10 degrees. It’s going to be close but looks like it will work if I keep it more forward per Byron’s comment.
 
FleshEater said:
Is yours clocked at all? Mine is clocked I believe 10 degrees. It’s going to be close but looks like it will work if I keep it more forward per Byron’s comment.
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No, the adapter setup I have doesn't allow for it to be clocked any.
 
FleshEater said:
So this was the idea I was rolling around to add support for a trans tunnel and to help tie in the floor/seats. This would be with 1.5”x.120 wall tube.

No good?

The rear would also tie in front to back and side to side for panel and seat mounting. Nothing is set in stone yet. I need a seat in my hands and then see how the drivetrain fits.
IMG_2531.jpeg
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I'd like to first say I'm not the expert or know it all by any means. Really just wanted to try and help while you are still early in your build. I almost messaged you and wish I would have not to derail your thread!

yes the bars you have drawn in will help! They will help a lot with the a pillar. However if you land on the outside tube of the a pillar all the force is still transferred to the unsupported tube. It MAY only be an issue in a full HARD roll where the roof of the buggy take a HARD hit. The force will go from the roof, down the a pillar or b pillar and have no support. That point will be much weaker and now you're relying on the tube strength(in its weakest direction) alone to handle all the force. Once it finds weak spot it COULD POSSIBLY bend the tubing by passing its yeild point. That's why they teach to always end tubes in nodes when at all possible.

Again its not a life or death thing IMO! I'd just be concerned that in a hard roll the damage would be hard to fix.

And since Im posting again I had to cut out the rear cross bar that untchabl asked about. My cases are not clocked either. The lowest part the my case....the front output is 1/2 off my skid. I just cut mine and will put a hoop over the output to connect the tubes back. The below is an example of what I mean.....not mine!
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I hope this helps!
 
Blase said:
I'd like to first say I'm not the expert or know it all by any means. Really just wanted to try and help while you are still early in your build. I almost messaged you and wish I would have not to derail your thread!

yes the bars you have drawn in will help! They will help a lot with the a pillar. However if you land on the outside tube of the a pillar all the force is still transferred to the unsupported tube. It MAY only be an issue in a full HARD roll where the roof of the buggy take a HARD hit. The force will go from the roof, down the a pillar or b pillar and have no support. That point will be much weaker and now you're relying on the tube strength(in its weakest direction) alone to handle all the force. Once it finds weak spot it COULD POSSIBLY bend the tubing by passing its yeild point. That's why they teach to always end tubes in nodes when at all possible.

Again its not a life or death thing IMO! I'd just be concerned that in a hard roll the damage would be hard to fix.

And since Im posting again I had to cut out the rear cross bar that untchabl asked about. My cases are not clocked either. The lowest part the my case....the front output is 1/2 off my skid. I just cut mine and will put a hoop over the output to connect the tubes back. The below is an example of what I mean.....not mine!
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I hope this helps!
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I see what you’re saying. I guess my question is, would a small tube as a gusset work and welding my boatside panels to tie in also help?

Like this. Remember these are all .188 wall tubes

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FleshEater said:
So this was the idea I was rolling around to add support for a trans tunnel and to help tie in the floor/seats. This would be with 1.5”x.120 wall tube.

No good?

The rear would also tie in front to back and side to side for panel and seat mounting. Nothing is set in stone yet. I need a seat in my hands and then see how the drivetrain fits.
IMG_2531.jpeg
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That looks like it would be ideal, it's hard to say without getting some drive train and seats in there.

I'd use 090 anywhere that won't touch rocks. Could even drop to 1 1/4 probably
 
FleshEater said:
I see what you’re saying. I guess my question is, would a small tube as a gusset work and welding my boatside panels to tie in also help?

Like this. Remember these are all .188 wall tubes

IMG_2511.jpeg
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yes I think that makes more sense than what I was suggesting! Much easier to accomplish and it gives support.
 
Got these in the mail today. A lot of M8 and M10 to make use of. :smokin:

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Then in texting Anthony today he remembered why made my belly on the chassis the way he did. He is going to build out an adjustable upper link mount that acts like a gusset and runs down to the skid part of the belly. So it will tie in nicely and support the A pillar.

He mentioned to me that it would leave room for upper link mounts, but I didn’t know what he had in mind.
 
untchabl said:
Another thing that may give you trouble is the horizontal tube at the bottom between the B pillars. Hard to tell for sure in the pics, but that tube may be in the way of the t-case output flange/driveshaft.

You can see in these pics of my chassis that the t-case output is pretty high on the Toyota t-case and how the chassis was designed to accommodate that.

PXL_20210521_174624267.jpg
PXL_20210521_174917300.jpg
Click to expand...
Not to steal away from this thread but I really like the fab work and design on this chassis.
 
I got a crane scale in the mail today.

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I’ve been really interested in weights. So I got my Samurai engine weighed as it sits and my transmission/doubler (minus the clutch).

Samurai Engine is 173.8lbs.
Transmission/Doubler is 204.6 lbs.

Way light. :smokin:
 
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