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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

FleshEater said:
Spent most of today fitting the Lucky 13 adapter to the block and bell housing. This is going to be a nightmare trying to get the whole drivetrain together.

So much so I regret not just building a 1.6l block and tossing the Samurai head on.

I mean…all I need are 8V pistons to make my 16V block work…
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What’s the advantage of keeping the Sami 1.3 head?
 
What's the issue with the adapter?

I made my own that went the other way, 1.6 to Sami trans. The upper bolts worked and the lowers were just further out on the 1.6.
 
I don’t like the design on this. There’s no good way to get them solidified so everything lines up perfectly, easily.

Maybe it’s just a super tight fit no matter how you do it. It works, I just know it’s going to be a struggle. It’s easier when you can tap the bell housing in with a rubber mallet. I just have a feeling it’s going to suck when it weighs 300lbs. and I’m trying to get everything together.
 
FleshEater said:
Propane and it’s done. :flipoff2:

I hate rebuilding the 16V heads. So much so I gave up on the last one and it’s in pieces on the bench.
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I’ve never been into a 16v 1.6 head, what’s so complicated about it?
 
Landslide said:
I’ve never been into a 16v 1.6 head, what’s so complicated about it?
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It’s not complicated. The valves, springs, and keepers are stupidly tiny. My sausage fingers struggle on each valve. There’s a lot of tearing down and putting back together when lapping in new valves.
 
FleshEater said:
It’s not complicated. The valves, springs, and keepers are stupidly tiny. My sausage fingers struggle on each valve. There’s a lot of tearing down and putting back together when lapping in new valves.
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See that's the part you're doing wrong as a suzuki guy. You're supposed to just buy a used pos leaky engine, slap it in and run it for the next 10 years.
 
FleshEater said:
It’s not complicated. The valves, springs, and keepers are stupidly tiny. My sausage fingers struggle on each valve. There’s a lot of tearing down and putting back together when lapping in new valves.
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Poor guy, don’t let it get ya down, I’d take mine to my local machinest guy I used for Al my Toyota and LS engine work. I don’t fawk with valves he does as he has the equipment to do them correctly.

I’ve done a ton of valve work on equipment engines and VW engines back in the day tho.
 
Chomping at this bit for this chassis. Comes tomorrow. Shop is all cleaned out for it.

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FleshEater said:
I don’t like the design on this. There’s no good way to get them solidified so everything lines up perfectly, easily.

Maybe it’s just a super tight fit no matter how you do it. It works, I just know it’s going to be a struggle. It’s easier when you can tap the bell housing in with a rubber mallet. I just have a feeling it’s going to suck when it weighs 300lbs. and I’m trying to get everything together.
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It's been a long time, but is the issue getting the bolt holes to line up?

Maybe pull just the bell off the trans and get it figured out with a 5lb bell housing vs a 300 lb trans and cases?

Also, you could probably just mate them all up and swing the whole shebang in at once.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's been a long time, but is the issue getting the bolt holes to line up?

Maybe pull just the bell off the trans and get it figured out with a 5lb bell housing vs a 300 lb trans and cases?

Also, you could probably just mate them all up and swing the whole shebang in at once.
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I figured it out with just the bell housing. That’s what I’m saying. It works, but it takes some persuasion to go into the holes, which will be harder when it’s the whole drivetrain. I’ll probably force the engine instead of the trans/t-case since the engine is lighter.

I’ve been trying to picture how to do the whole thing at once, but I don’t think I’ll be able to. Just too awkward. it’s something 61.5” long and only 18.5” of that is the engine.
 
I figured you were busy cause I hadn’t heard from you.

Push the motor as far forward in the chassis as you can. You want to keep the rear shaft ad long as possible to get the droop out of it. A 92-00 Civic half size radiator with a good fan behind the rear seat will keep it cool.

I’m excited to see the motor and chassis together.
 
Byro said:
I figured you were busy cause I hadn’t heard from you.

Push the motor as far forward in the chassis as you can. You want to keep the rear shaft ad long as possible to get the droop out of it. A 92-00 Civic half size radiator with a good fan behind the rear seat will keep it cool.

I’m excited to see the motor and chassis together.
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I can agree, although I think I'd still want the crank pulley behind the fromt axle. Which should be easy enough to accomplish with also having a reasonable rear driveshaft.
 
You made a good choice getting that kit :smokin:

Would be sweet to say you built one 100% from scratch, but will also be sweet to actually wheel this thing sooner than later.
 
I might have missed it, FABN801 chassis or? Looks like a giant lego set, that’ll be fun
 
FleshEater said:
I figured it out with just the bell housing. That’s what I’m saying. It works, but it takes some persuasion to go into the holes, which will be harder when it’s the whole drivetrain. I’ll probably force the engine instead of the trans/t-case since the engine is lighter.

I’ve been trying to picture how to do the whole thing at once, but I don’t think I’ll be able to. Just too awkward. it’s something 61.5” long and only 18.5” of that is the engine.
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One thing I did with the mile long Toyota trans and doubler cases to help with R&Ring, was I got two longer bolts then the bell housing to engine mounting bolts. Then, cut the hex heads off and ground a good long radius on the cutoff end. Threaded those into the engine block on both sides. Then, used those to help align the trans assembly to the engine. You have to pay close attention to making sure your trans assembly stays square or level to the engine so the input shaft hits the clutch disc dead on and into the pilot bearing. Be sure your drive flanges are on the t case outputs as you’ll need to rotate the trans internally (in gear) to help get the splines on the input shaft to align with the clutch disc splines.

Jim, good luck on your mission
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I can agree, although I think I'd still want the crank pulley behind the fromt axle. Which should be easy enough to accomplish with also having a reasonable rear driveshaft.
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This, not sure what your wheelbase is you’re looking for but I wouldn’t sacrifice your front package over the rear. Stretch the rear out if necessary to accommodate the front engine to front differential setup. I like the front diff in front of the engine crank pulley.
 
Landslide said:
This, not sure what your wheelbase is you’re looking for but I wouldn’t sacrifice your front package over the rear. Stretch the rear out if necessary to accommodate the front engine to front differential setup. I like the front diff in front of the engine crank pulley.
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My first Sami was 104" and 17" belly pan. It climbed everything my buddies with 115-120" climbed and didn't turtle as easy.

It's been a long time, but I believe my front axle was in front of or under my crank pulley. Rear driveshaft was totally reasonable length. Had dual Toyota cases with a stubby intermediate shaft to Sami trans. Had to be similar to a w56 length.
 
My 2.0 drivetrain is 68" from front of the crank pulley to rear t-case flange. Rear driveshaft is 24.75" flange to flange. Wheelbase is 106" with 18" belly at ride height.

Looking forward to watching you put this together.
 
You have any pics of the notches? Hole saw or plasma cut? Are they cleaned up and beveled?

Looks killer
 
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