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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy

YotaAtieToo said:
Just have to cover those bearings to keep metal dust out, not a big deal, just figureed you would have done it while apart.
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Oh, I could still pull it out technically. Just slip a magnet under the roll pin to catch it, dump the ball and spring out and that rod will come out.
 
Anyone ever install a RingR? I told Trail Tough just to send me everything I need for this. However, I’m not sure what’s needed to make their throwout bearing work.

I think they just sent me a factory Toyota throw out bearing. One thought I have is to drill out the rod and shim the spring over tighter with a roll pin or something to fit the bearing.

Going to call them first before I do anything :homer:.

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Byro said:
Momma says Toyota owners is ornery cause they got all them gears but no power.
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Yeah, but I can crawl out in 1st low low, run and grab a beer, and hop back in before it makes it 10’. :flipoff2:

Figured my throw out bearing. They sent me the wrong one and a Koyo on eBay is $45. Stoopid.
 
FleshEater said:
Yeah, but I can crawl out in 1st low low, run and grab a beer, and hop back in before it makes it 10’. :flipoff2:

Figured my throw out bearing. They sent me the wrong one and a Koyo on eBay is $45. Stoopid.
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There may be a few different styles. W56 ran from 85-95.

Iirc, it's a celica or something clutch that they modify to work with the Sami pressure plate and flywheel.

So no idea if the throw out is Toyota or zuk.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
There may be a few different styles. W56 ran from 85-95.

Iirc, it's a celica or something clutch that they modify to work with the Sami pressure plate and flywheel.

So no idea if the throw out is Toyota or zuk.
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It’s Toyota. I need a Zuk one and shave it some to fit. They didn’t even send me a clutch alignment tool.
 
FleshEater said:
It’s Toyota. I need a Zuk one and shave it some to fit. They didn’t even send me a clutch alignment tool.
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I have the real deal, an old input shaft I cut off and not one of those gay plastic pos that never get it close to true alignment.
 
FleshEater said:
For a Toyota W56, right?

Not a Tracker.
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It is a Toyota w56 or turbo transmission input shaft or late 80’s

I got tired of fighting the transmission install to engine using pos plastic alignment tools because they’re never tight enough for true alignment. After using this thing I never fought it anymore.
 
I called Trail Tough today. They said the throw out bearing should work as is, but one of the guys grinded the driver side arm down some so it would slide back further.

So I bent the arm out and grinded it down for an even tighter more betterer fit. :flipoff2:

Hard to get pics, but before it was barely riding on the shaft and sloppy fit at best.

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FleshEater said:
Not yet. Still not sure how to approach that. I wanted to do it once the chassis was all tacked up and everything laid out. Have to take it off the engine stand which is a pain.
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Too bad you don’t have an old empty engine block you could put a pan and head on for mock-up. How about cutting one out of a huge log with a chainsaw? :flipoff2:
 
Landslide said:
Too bad you don’t have an old empty engine block you could put a pan and head on for mock-up. How about cutting one out of a huge log with a chainsaw? :flipoff2:
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So it weighs 100 lbs instead of 150 lbs? :laughing:

There was a dude on here that put an ls in a Toyota and made a badass cardboard mockup engine. I legitimately wanted to buy it off him, but he burned it for celebration of getting it running :laughing:

I also seem to remember a mockup block or trans or? Being passed around pirate years ago.
 
I still have to file down the 1.3l block to fit the Lucky 13 set up from TT.

I figure once the chassis tacked well it’s going to take me a week or so to fab up motor mounts, and t-case mounts. At that point it will get test fit and sit like that for weeks.
 
FleshEater said:
I still have to file down the 1.3l block to fit the Lucky 13 set up from TT.

I figure once the chassis tacked well it’s going to take me a week or so to fab up motor mounts, and t-case mounts. At that point it will get test fit and sit like that for weeks.
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You could heavy tack weld some 1/2” or bigger hole hanger brackets on your chassis in locations. Then use ratchet straps to hold your engine and trans in location in your chassis to fab up mounts. Advantage is you can tweak it or adjust it easily into the position you want it to be at.
 
Landslide said:
You could heavy tack weld some 1/2” or bigger hole hanger brackets on your chassis in locations. Then use ratchet straps to hold your engine and trans in location in your chassis to fab up mounts. Advantage is you can tweak it or adjust it easily into the position you want it to be at.
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Thats a good idea, except I'd just go around the tube
 
Landslide said:
You could heavy tack weld some 1/2” or bigger hole hanger brackets on your chassis in locations. Then use ratchet straps to hold your engine and trans in location in your chassis to fab up mounts. Advantage is you can tweak it or adjust it easily into the position you want it to be at.
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I figure I’ll block it all up level and then go from there. Easier than trying to work around straps that will probably get in my way more than anything.
 
Landslide said:
Too bad you don’t have an old empty engine block you could put a pan and head on for mock-up. How about cutting one out of a huge log with a chainsaw? :flipoff2:
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That's what I did. Had a junk 2.0 with several spun bearings. Gutted it to a bare block with head, valve cover and oil pan. Put a spare exhaust manifold on it. Then gutted a junk 4 speed auto and bolted that up to the engine.

Getting ready to loan it to a buddy so he can setup his buggy.
 
Spent most of today fitting the Lucky 13 adapter to the block and bell housing. This is going to be a nightmare trying to get the whole drivetrain together.

So much so I regret not just building a 1.6l block and tossing the Samurai head on.

I mean…all I need are 8V pistons to make my 16V block work…
 
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