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I have the 1.6 block with a 1.3 head. I’ve heard all the talk that the 1.3 block and crank is stronger, and that the turbo will break the 1.6. I’ve had a turbo on my engine for five years and I beat on it. No failures. They used to say the 1.3 had on the 1.6 block created more compression. But according to PetroWorks, that is not true. But there is nothing wrong with the 1.3 head.
I’ve had the head off last year. Visual inspection was good. I’ve never torn apart the bottom end. After years of beating on it, I may find out if you’re right. I can tell it needs some tlc. But it still ran great 2 days ago when I went wheeling.If that 1.6l ever hit rev limiter…or numerous times, the block is probably junked. Unless you have a girdle, which you might.
But they’ll run fine even when they crack and you’ never know. When you tear it down you’ll know and cylinder 1 and 2 will be split at the crank bearing. Ask me how I know.
irate4x4.com
Now you’re making me nervous. I had good compression on all 4. Not sure what direction I would go, if this block is not reusable. I don’t want to change the entire drivetrain. That means revamping the entire buggy. Don’t want to do that.I had to go back and look at my other thread (build threads are so handy), to confirm. My engine had good compression, seemed fine, ran fine, and then I tore it down.
Little Red (1996 Geo Tracker)
Going to do rod and main bearings and new rings in the bottom end while this engine is out. You guys have preference between ITM ENGINE COMPONENTS, ENGINETECH, or Sealed Power parts?
That engine came from a 1996 Sidekick that was used like a SXS. No girdle on the bottom end either. I could have probably ran it with no issue, but it seemed like a waste to tear it all down and rebuild it knowing the block was cracked.
This is why I’m hesitant to use a 1.6l on a buggy. I’ll just keep hunting down a good 2.0 donor.
Meh, I started out building a bunch of Toyotas then got to hating the pos Toyota front axle completely to stuffing one tons under my last Toyota buggy. This was in the late 2000’s and I had right at $10k in the front D60. That was then, no idea what it cost to build one today and that’s not counting how much I put into the 14B rear either. Like a dumbass I let things get out of hand from there and ended up building twin steer Rockwell axles LS TH400 203/205 buggy on 44’s.Listen…I can just keep my Chevy, delete the AFM/DOD, and run that LS. My 4l60E has already been built by an excellent transmission builder who built it for my towing. The computer has also been custom tuned on HP tuners.
So TECHNICALLY, I could go LS, 4l60E, Atlas, and 9” and 42’s…but, I want to get wheeling within the next 5 years. Those axle builds alone cost a pile.
In the meantime, I’ll keep listening to Greg tell me everything will be okay on the Toyotas, while you tell me I’m going to kill a busload of nuns and should drink bleach for even considering Toyotas on my 60HP driveline.
WI’ll a TH180 bolt up? Or will I have to get an adapter? Are there adapters?
That’s great news. 165hp without a power adder and a fuel gauge sounds good to me. 👍
Yeah I see people swapping out the 2.0 EFI throttle body and other parts on them to work. Imo that’s a waste as they’re installing a smaller throttle body then what was on it so = power lossNice, I haven't seen someone use the ringR in a while.
Don't quote me on the 2.3 number, it's been a while. They're also damn hard to find, plus usually need 2.0 parts to work in a "rwd" application. They came in suzuki aerio's.
Edit: damn it, shouldn't have looked, there is an aerio near me for $650.... Double edit: there's another for $750
The 4 doors are cheaper to come by for parts then the 2 door but most I see listed have blown engines. My thoughts are some 500lbs fat women with brats put most of the miles on it and what’s motor oil anyway right? By blown I mean spun rod which is a crank, rod and if it goes on too long the piston bitch slaps the cylinder head beating in a new combustion chamber radius.I am definitely grabbing the first $350 2.0 Chevy Tracker I find and rebuilding the engine.
Yeah I see people swapping out the 2.0 EFI throttle body and other parts on them to work. Imo that’s a waste as they’re installing a smaller throttle body then what was on it so = power loss
Buuuut, so the TH180 will bolt to a 2.0?
It’s fun fawking up op’s thread too
trailtough.com
I won’t argue with you about that but, I drive in a bunch of states from Wisconsin to Louisiana and there’s idiot drivers everywhereIt’s because you’re in Missouri. Everyone in Missouri drives like a damn idiot, so it’s no wonder those engines blow up. Any interstate time and it’ll kill any engine.
And there’s probably more tech in my threads from derailment than what’s left on the whole internet anymore. Like the Snow Tracker thread and all the Dana 30 swap information. Good stuff.
I won’t argue with you about that but, I drive in a bunch of states from Wisconsin to Louisiana and there’s idiot drivers everywhere