Is a chassis for something like this a bad idea to use 1.5” diameter .120~.125 wall tubing?
Is a chassis for something like this a bad idea to use 1.5” diameter .120~.125 wall tubing?
I would do 1.5” .120 with out second guessing.
I have a wild idea of doing an air cooled VW motor powered 1.5” cage moon buggy someday.
So much of this depends on where you wheel at, out here you’re not going to be able to crawl everywhere unless it’s dry as a popcorn fartI wheel with several guys that have 4-banger buggies with Toyota axles and 39" reds. None of them have had much, if any, axle breakage issues either. But we prefer crawling rather than full throttle assaults. So that helps a lot.
We're from NC but wheel TN, WV and KY mainly.So much of this depends on where you wheel at, out here you’re not going to be able to crawl everywhere unless it’s dry as a popcorn fart
I want to use a metro 3cyl I've had one before and you can easily pick it up and move it. Same pattern as a Sami 1.3
I had to look it up. 110-130lbs depending on the accessories.
Is this thing done yet?
Talking about ponies or lack thereof, if I’m not happy with this 1.3l I’m going to swap my 16V pistons for 8V. Then run the 1.6 block with the Samurai head.
Pretty much what Tumbleweed has.
LS motors are readily available.
LS, TH400, tons, 40s. Now we’re talking.
The estimated weight is based off of what bendtech calculates the weight at. i double checked all weight per foot values i entered into the program so the estimated weight should be close but thats also before welding and extra tubing added. I love your rig by the way!Is the chassis 1.5" or 1.75" tubing?
My bare chassis was 696lbs. It's almost all 1.75" .125 wall except the sliders are .188. Belly skid and boat sides are part of the chassis and are 1/4" plate.
I love my buggy with Toyota axles and 40" Irok stickies. Great diff clearance, light weight and so far no broken parts.
If you just say down with a pen and paper. It probably doesn't cost much more to buy all the parts to do 5.3/th400/atlas/05+ axles. Fuck it might even be cheaper.
The difference is that you got op over here mooching everyone's back yard junk piles for pennies on the dollar
That is clutch, man. Hard to pass up all these Toyota/Zuk deals.
I’m just building 20 years in the past. Retro build.
If you just say down with a pen and paper. It probably doesn't cost much more to buy all the parts to do 5.3/th400/atlas/05+ axles. Fuck it might even be cheaper.
The difference is that you got op over here mooching everyone's back yard junk piles for pennies on the dollar
Everyone has to do a medium build before seeing the light that is V8s and 40s.
Id have a hard time building a little light rig. My brain automatically goes to 35spl, and big tires. I’m trying to help him along as best as possible.
My other buddy Greg was at my shop Saturday and we were joking cause FleshEater is texting both of us for build pointers. Greg runs Yota axles and strictly rocks, I run tons and drive by braille and instant on 14Bs and all round setup. So we’re both telling him different shit.
Yes, 16v head on a 1.3 block.Isn't that the worst of both worlds? I the the 16v block sucked and 1.3 head sucked? Is it the_ham_sami that has a 16v head on a 1.3 block?
Honestly, just go 2.0 or 2.3. Even the 2.0 is 125hp, which is probably double of a worn out 8v.
Lol perfect.
I never said you’ll kill any nuns, just be severely disappointed with subpar equipment.
Whatever you choose hurry the hell up. I’m trying to wheel something other than Trackers.
It cost way more to build my front Toyota axle than a 05+ Super Duty set. My Trail Gear front housing cost more than the sd60/10.5 I have sitting in the shed ($300 front/$60 rear).
But I didn't want axles that heavy for my buggy.
I started collecting parts over 5 years ago. I actually started out building a cheap Sami buggy. Had the 2.0/4-speed auto from a Tracker I had that the wife totaled and a Sami t-case. Was going to be on Yota axles and 35's. That build took several years and never got past basically a roller but I had kept buying more parts and upgrading my parts pile. After a few years, I kicked that project to the curb and had Marsfab build my buggy with the parts I had acquired.Man when they say I’m getting deals, these brothers are hooking me up here. Wuz-A-Zuk gave me 4 complete Toyota axles with all the rebuild stuff for one front axle, and like 6 third members. For a $350 Tracker engine and trans pulled and delivered 4.5 hours out to him.
Then YotaAtietoo sold me a W56 and doubler for $500. Shipping was steep, but with a chassis delivered to my door I’m right around $7,400 right now.
That would almost build my 9” axles…and that’s it. My drivetrain and axles are pretty much done. Just need air shocks, steering and all the guts to make this go.
Everyone has to do a medium build before seeing the light that is V8s and 40s.
Id have a hard time building a little light rig. My brain automatically goes to 35spl, and big tires. I’m trying to help him along as best as possible.
My other buddy Greg was at my shop Saturday and we were joking cause FleshEater is texting both of us for build pointers. Greg runs Yota axles and strictly rocks, I run tons and drive by braille and instant on 14Bs and all round setup. So we’re both telling him different shit.
Yes, 16v head on a 1.3 block.
If I could ditch the 1.3 altogether, I would in a heartbeat. I'd love to pick some more HP. However, I do like the 16v head on the 1.3 block, its fast revving and likes high RPM. Makes it feel faster than it is lol.
It cost way more to build my front Toyota axle than a 05+ Super Duty set. My Trail Gear front housing cost more than the sd60/10.5 I have sitting in the shed ($300 front/$60 rear).
But I didn't want axles that heavy for my buggy.
Shannon Campbell had that setup, moonbuggy competing in WERock in the early 2000’s. You can find videos of it on YouTube.I would do 1.5” .120 with out second guessing.
I have a wild idea of doing an air cooled VW motor powered 1.5” cage moon buggy someday.