FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
It’s a 4cyl. model.
If it could retro fit the HP 3rd would be sweet. Just not cost effective to change gears (literally) now.
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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy
- Thread starter FleshEater
- Start date
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- suzuki
It’s a 4cyl. model.
If it could retro fit the HP 3rd would be sweet. Just not cost effective to change gears (literally) now.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
What I'm saying is the front driveshaft won't work like it is, so you either have to change the links or change the diff
Byro
Lurkin’
Probably should make a driveshaft and quit speculating. I’ve seen Yota joints run at a pretty gnarly angle. I’d also have no problem running a 1.75” or even 1.5” drive shaft for the needed clearance.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Fair enough, but to me these pics seem pretty telling
Not saying it's impossible, just don't see why you wouldn't want to make a few tweeks to make it much easier.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
This is what I need to do. Wuz-A-zuk told me he has a pile of driveshafts, so working on a deal to buy a buncha stuff off him again. At least I can get something mounted to this pinion and make sure before I do anything drastic at this point.
Byro
Lurkin’
Fair enough, but to me these pics seem pretty telling
Not saying it's impossible, just don't see why you wouldn't want to make a few tweeks to make it much easier.
He was 7” longer on the uppers before outboarding them and the lowers were in the same spot. Me personally I don’t like that much difference in links, that’s just going to cause all kinds of wonky geometry. If that’s full droop, or close to it I don’t see an issue lifting the carrier at the chassis just enough to clear the link. Taking triangulation out of the lowers without reworking the belly, crossmember is going to make them even shorter. Probably be in the 10” different range after moving the uppers back in to get the total triangulation.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I will agree that 7" longer uppers is odd, but what issue will that actually cause? I know it will cause the pinion to rotate up on droop, which could mean fucked caster, but for this application, I'm not sure it will matter, may even be beneficial.
If it really is just lifting the carrier up a little, sure. But in the pics it looks like the driveshaft is wanting to occupy the same place as the link.
If it were me, I'd notch or remove a section of chassis crossmember to make the lowers longer.
Like you said though, just need to get a driveshaft in there, or at least something to mockup and see what fits.
(no idea why it just changed to italics, can't get it to go away
)