1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[rattle_snake]

Looks like I could move front bumps out 5" if using radius arm upper arm ends as landing pads. This is not ideal for a few reasons. Given the physical separations of the various things this gains 1" of bump gap. Given I'm at only 2-ish, this is 50% improvement, but still only 1". So going to wait on this one and see how things perform in the real world first.

 

[Snowracer]

Looks like I could move front bumps out 5" if using radius arm upper arm ends as landing pads. This is not ideal for a few reasons. Given the physical separations of the various things this gains 1" of bump gap. Given I'm at only 2-ish, this is 50% improvement, but still only 1". So going to wait on this one and see how things perform in the real world first.

id totally go try it out how you have it now in the real world. drive up your test dirt again and will be able to measure and see if moving them would be worth it. i just feel like 2" of vertical before bump is going to suck for street driving or getting after it off road

 

[rattle_snake]

id totally go try it out how you have it now in the real world. drive up your test dirt again and will be able to measure and see if moving them would be worth it. i just feel like 2" of vertical before bump is going to suck for street driving or getting after it off road

I did test the new spacers, they do there job of protecting the sheet metal. But yes only ~2" of vertical up travel is not acceptable for me.

Perhaps I mis-understood your suggestion. I assumed you meant bump landing on top of upper arm, where grease zerk/limit strap is. Build a mount outside frame, behind coil over. This gets it out as far as possible.

Looking at things it looks like I can keep them centered over axle and just move them out. Build some outward extensions onto engine cross member. Initially I was concerned the coils would come too close to frame, so I made my own brackets with coil over bolt moved outside radius arm brackets to axle 'C's. Turns out not needed but now allows room for bump. I think I can move them out 4" or so and gain about 0.9". The other easy option is to raise ride height but has other downsides.

Axle moves horizontally as suspension cycles, so bump alignment can vary quite a bit. We can see here that is room between frame and coil to place extension and have bump land around top of inner bracket. Make a pad on top of arm bracket.

2nd fender mod, axle relocation, and bump spacer working to protect fender. Tire is stuffed pretty good.

Opposite corners are on bump stops. Front right is almost at full droop, left rear has a ways to go. Overall I think it has more than enough flex for how I'm going to use it, should be able to drive over a Prius without lifting a tire

 

[Snowracer]

i was talking about landing on the top of the radiaus arm mount where the grease nipple is. seeing the new pictures i like your idea of moving the mout out while still under the frame and having the bump pad next to the coil over as should help gain a little up travel and package better

 

[rattle_snake]

Even with coil overs, the frame is trying its hardest to out-flex the suspension

Looks good. That is shockingly little frame flex for an old ford. The tires tuck up in there nicely, and the fenders still look factoryish. You’d have to park it next to a stock one for most people to notice. Nice job

I think snowracer is right about moving the bumps outboard. I’m also not quite following what he means by land it on the upper mount for the arm. Packaging is looking like it’s going to be an issue pretty much anywhere but where you have them. I have seen them landed on the radius arms themselves before, but that was in much lighter rigs than yours and I’d be concerned about bending the arms on a hard hit.

I figured since I chose not to box the whole frame it would be a fucking noodle. But it's not as bad as I would have thought. The 250 frame is thicker than an f100 but still not that rigid compared to others.

The radius arm front flexes much better than I though too. I though I would need to pull one upper arm to get it to flex all the way, but it does fine as is.

 

[rattle_snake]

i was talking about landing on the top of the radiaus arm mount where the grease nipple is. seeing the new pictures i like your idea of moving the mout out while still under the frame and having the bump pad next to the coil over as should help gain a little up travel and package better

Ya I think that is beast/easiest option. Don't have to move the other stuff and gets most of the benefit. How wide exactly is the question, probably should plan to make it too wide and trim as needed, allow bump stop bolt/nut access.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got new rubbers put on. Went with Nitto trails in same size, 40x13.5r17. Took minimal weights to balance, under 2 oz. The beat Toyos had whole sheets of weights stuck on.
I was glad I got the used turds for mockup and burnouts.

Picked the best Toyo and put it on cheap steel wheel for spare. Heavy, 140lbs. Need to figure out mount plan and get a jack. Maybe a bottle jack. I have a hi-lift, but not a fan for tire change. Suggestions?

For now thinking just making a simple lockable stud. A

 

[klork]

You use a rear sump oil pan? I am gathering parts to 460 swap my 71 f350 crew cab but staying 2wd. Also what fuel tank did you use. I also want to get rid of the in cab fuel tank and 19 gallons is not very much for this thirsty bitch.

 

[rattle_snake]

Maybe something like that for tire storage?

Sorry I guess I meant suggestion for a jack. I did consider the upright mount like that but the tire is so stupid big if looks goofy and block view. That is a nice mount I like the custom 't'/wing nut may have to steal that idea.

 

[rattle_snake]

You use a rear sump oil pan? I am gathering parts to 460 swap my 71 f350 crew cab but staying 2wd. Also what fuel tank did you use. I also want to get rid of the in cab fuel tank and 19 gallons is not very much for this thirsty bitch.

Yes I used a late model pickup rear sump. Fuel tank is from an 1987 suburban, 31g. Burb tanks come in several sizes up to 40. At 5 or 6 mpg 30 gallons doesn't go far. I'm already planning a 2nd fuel tank.

 

[Snowracer]

them Nittos are damn sexy

 

[klork]

Yes I used a late model pickup rear sump. Fuel tank is from an 1987 suburban, 31g. Burb tanks come in several sizes up to 40. At 5 or 6 mpg 30 gallons doesn't go far. I'm already planning a 2nd fuel tank.

I m keeping mine 2wd on skinny tires. i hope to be able to get 14 mpg out of it.

 

[Smithy]

Need to figure out mount plan and get a jack. Maybe a bottle jack. I have a hi-lift, but not a fan for tire change. Suggestions?

Awesome work! I love how this thing turned out

I keep one of these in my Suburban:

https://www.powerbuilt.com/collecti.../6000-lb-unijack-bottle-jack-jackstand-in-one

Nice and stable, works well in the dirt, and doesn't take up too much room

 

[rattle_snake]

Awesome work! I love how this thing turned out

I keep one of these in my Suburban:

https://www.powerbuilt.com/collectio...ckstand-in-one

Nice and stable, works well in the dirt, and doesn't take up too much room

Thanks, that model goes up to 21" which is higher than most. 15 lbs. 10x10x12

Considering upgrading my 20T shop press with air-over-hydraulic ram, then use the manual 20T for truck... but one pump is <.100" so pain to use, hence AoH...

the 8 ton bottle jacks can go about 17.5 and are 5x5x10, 13lbs. Would need some cribbing to make it work

 

[holdmypocket]

I can imagine a 40 would be a little much sticking up in the bed. If you are talking a mount for the jack, a tool box is probably the way to go, despite how much it will ruin the lines of the truck. In cab storage is lacking with a regular cab, and I don’t think you want to have to build mount for everything you might end up carrying. Or let it roll around in the bed.

Feel free to steal anything you want from that design. A buddy brought me those pictures years ago and I shamelessly ripped it off to replace his rotten factory carrier.

You mentioned toolbox ruining the lines but I was able to find a Lund toolbox for about $250 at Home Depot that is bed height and leaves room on the sides for longer items (I have a short bed)..

 

[rattle_snake]

Sticks up just a bit

Working on simple tire mount scheme, likely to change. Decided to go with left side for a few reasons;
-right rear spring is sagging already, put weight on other side
-I'd like to reserve the option to add an aux fuel tank in the bed. With main tank fuel fill on right, aux tank and filler should go on that side.

So 1st step was to removed the abandoned OEM aux fuel tank fill cover. Ford used a torch to cut crude holes in bed. I cleaned up slag and hit with some paint.

Instead of spending a lot of time on quality repair welding in flush patch panels and filling all the holes, I just made a simple cover. One bend in the press, paint on both side to prevent corrosion, seam sealer, rivetted in.

I spend a looooong time pondering tire mount options. I guess I enjoy this part, engineering creative solutions. Had to be very simple, adjustable, secure and lockable. I drilled a hole through bed and frame at transverse bed support location. This did not align with any lug holes, so needed some type of plate to adapt. Ended up using 1/2-13 all-thread that makes everything adjustable. Modified a unistrut square washer to fit bed floor nicely to spread load and prevent rotation.

I stole a 6" round, 1/4" thick spare tire mount ring out of my wife's horse trailer. Had an offset hole and a 2nd hole for lock pin, so already perfect. I wanted to use an extra 5/8 hitch pin lock as it is keyed the same as every other lock I have for all my trucks and trailers. Didn't want another key just for spare. Used some hose to hold in position, added more hose below after this pic to prevent just removing nut and lifting plate/pin to access nuts.

End result. Uses same nut size as lugs, and bottoms out on nut below not just squishing tire, as that just comes loose over time.
Could just remove nut on frame below to steal but that is outside of the scope, goal is to just make it more difficult.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got an 8T bottle jack and a collapsible 1/2 breaker bar setup so I can change a tire. Tried out jack, it pumps up quickly and will lift high enough under axle tube with just one 2x6 on flat ground. So plan to carry a few 2x6s. Also bough a shorty shovel, need to mount. So have an axe, knives, plastics bags and a shovel in case I need to dispose of some trash far out in the desert.
The pristine shovel will hep me fit in with the soccer moms and jeep peeps.

 

[Deleted Member]

NICE!

 

[Drummer79]

I stole a 6" round, 1/4" thick spare tire mount ring out of my wife's horse trailer. Had an offset hole and a 2nd hole for lock pin, so already perfect. I wanted to use an extra 5/8 hitch pin lock as it is keyed the same as every other lock I have for all my trucks and trailers. Didn't want another key just for spare. Used some hose to hold in position, added more hose below after this pic to prevent just removing nut and lifting plate/pin to access nuts.

End result. Uses same nut size as lugs, and bottoms out on nut below not just squishing tire, as that just comes loose over time.
Could just remove nut on frame below to steal but that is outside of the scope, goal is to just make it more difficult.

Sorry for the stupid question, I'm sure I'm just missing something easy, but in the final pic the nut is still visible, unbolt that and it all comes apart anyway, right?
EDIT Oh! I think i get it now, nevermind.

 

[rockota]

Sorry for the stupid question, I'm sure I'm just missing something easy, but in the final pic the nut is still visible, unbolt that and it all comes apart anyway, right?
EDIT Oh! I think i get it now, nevermind.

I'll admit it confuses me a bit...

 

[4RunnerGuy]

I'll admit it confuses me a bit...

The actual lock is one of these. He mentioned he has several that are all keyed the same.

 

[Levigarrett76]

I think there are 3 nuts total, i think the top one snugs it down and crushes down the hose, you would still have to defeat the pin lock?

slick design

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes there are 3 nut total on the top end (5 nuts total). If top nut is removed, the plate cannot be removed as the pin lock is still holding it down.

This pics shows the other piece of hose on lock shaft that prevents the pin + round plate from sliding up when still locked. Worked out slick as I didn't have to cut or weld anything. I considered cutting up and tapping threads on lock shaft to make it just one piece.

 

[rockota]

Yes there are 3 nut total on the top end (5 nuts total). If top nut is removed, the plate cannot be removed as the pin lock is still holding it down.

This pics shows the other piece of hose on lock shaft that prevents the pin + round plate from sliding up when still locked. Worked out slick as I didn't have to cut or weld anything. I considered cutting up and tapping threads on lock shaft to make it just one piece.

it's the top bolt that was throwing me off... outside of holding the plate firm and providing some pressure... it's not really part of the security aspect.... that's all on the lock.

So, in theory, one could do similar w/o that top nut... but would live with plenty of rattles.

is that correct?

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes exactly. But the rattles can be mitigated with rubber hose to take slack out.

 

[rockota]

Yes exactly. But the rattles can be mitigated with rubber hose to take slack out.

Got it...

Slick idea.

 

[rattle_snake]

A friend gave me a 10# CO2 tank and reg for tire inflation. The tank is large and heavy but should be fast so going to try it out. Need some type of mount. Thinking of something like this
https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-co2-bottle-mount

Unfortunately it sticks up over the bed rail. Maybe angle the mount. Also got me thinking where to mount the nitrous bottle. Found a plastic toolbox that also fits in this space nicely for some more storage. Need to think before drilling more holes.

 

[rattle_snake]

Shopping for rear springs. Currently I believe I have the lightest Cheby 1500 spring, 2+1 leaves rated at '1500 lbs'. I got them because they were easy to get and cheap at the time. At ride height the arch is almost gone now with added weight from rear bumper and spare tire, so a heavier spring is needed for any cargo or trailer tongue weight. Given that the traction bar prevents spring wrap, I'm not convinced an expensive name brand spring is needed, and I don't need a lift spring. So considering a stock replacement type.
Options:
2+1, 1900#
3+1, 2235#
4+1, 2025#
5+1, 2235#
5+1, 2600#
and so on.

Thinking the 5+1, 2235# rated spring. This is 50% 'rating' increase over what I have now. Can take a leaf out to lighten if needed. Not sure the overload will do anything at all, might take it off to save weight. Currently the spring hits the bump to protect sheet metal before the overload is engaged. Run a small block to be able to set ride height and adjust axle position. Comments?

 

[redneckK20s]

I'm still trying to figure out leafs for my squarebody chevy, but i figured the most amount of leaves for the lightest capacity option would give you the widest range of "tuning".

 

[350TacoZilla]

Out of options listed 5+1 you mention would have most adjust ability for you to mess around with it. I've always been more of a junkyard scrounger myself so I end up doing hybrid stock packs till I get the height\ride I'm after.