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1967 f250

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
Not a 4x4 build..id love to have a 4x4 in this chassis but this isnt it or the time.

Back story, its my dads first truck he bought it in 1975 and drove it until 1989. And then it sat and sat and sat. In 96 he tried to start it before we moved and it caught on fire.

in 2007 i tried to start it and the same thing happened.

In december i decided to do something with it, i bought a ebay chinacom carb and threw it on. It fired right up after correcting the plug wires being one pin off all the way around.

My goal is drive it by july 4th

It way easier for me to spend money on something that runs.

so far ive installed a master as the old one was rusted through. Had to put on a water pump pulley as i lost..the other one. bought wheels to replace the 16.5s installed treadwrights that i had laying around.

Then i came across a issue, the bypass tube from the water pump to the intake was rusted completely through. I was gonna drill and tap it in pipe to put a brass fitting in but upon further inspection i didnt have enough material left in the intake to tap. so i bought a stock boat anchor intake off ebay. Im hoping to install that this weekend, do freeze plugs and set the idle.

Im very busy so i get like half a day a week to mess with this, and ive set myself a budget im trying stick to. Im in for like 600 bucks right now..

Im expecting to be on the road mid june.

In the fall id like to install a 4 barrel intake and a holley sniper. If budget allows a engine rebuild or a rebuild and no upgrades.

In between now and then after it moves ill be doing floor pans and re doing the wiring etc

Photos incoming from phone

 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
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Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
Some photos

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A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
I did not weld that brake rod..my dad did when he was in HS and yea i did just reinstlal it until i can find another one. Intake photo is because the coolant bypass on my intake is rusted really bad and for 40 bucks i didnt need to drill and tap mine...
 

Wolfe_Man

Don't Label Me!
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
242
Messages
183
Location
Apple Valley CA.
Awesome truck, I love them. What FE motor is it? 352/360/390 etc? If you decide to rebuild the FE they can make some awesome power but there are some simple mods you might want to do. If you go down that path let me know and I have pics of doing one myself (oil drain back, oil restriction etc)
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
Awesome truck, I love them. What FE motor is it? 352/360/390 etc? If you decide to rebuild the FE they can make some awesome power but there are some simple mods you might want to do. If you go down that path let me know and I have pics of doing one myself (oil drain back, oil restriction etc)

352, although my dad had it rebuilt in the mid 80s so 352 + .30??
im gonna run it this summer and start stockpiling parts Thinking of doing a stroker..or maybe a turbo. Roots would be cool but quite expensive

it also has a np435 and i want to try going up more speeds zf5/6 or a t56 something like that. Hell maybe a browny box if i can find one.

Edit: i bought a 429/c6 off my coworker that i havent picked up yet...i looked at swapping that in but it felt...dirty.. He also has a 68 f100 that i may buy off him and take the reins off..swap in a front axle drop a big block in it and put a chrome roll bar in it with pretty lady mudflaps...IDK really

I have some 16" rims and tires for you.
I saw your other thread on PBB i appreciate it but these wheels are only for this summer. Id like to put a set of alloys on maybe a 10 hole..

Plus your in NH and im in OK that shipping not cheap
 
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A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
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Member Number
1216
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493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
So I was planning on working on the truck this weekend I figured I could do it faster and maybe have it road ready by end of day.

So first I'm doing the intake last bolt on driverside it seems like its rounded off so I break out the needler and its actually broke off but the rebuilder was nice enough to weld it to the intake.

So I torched the weld off and move on to removing the rocker assembly and pulling pushrods..

Number 1 intake push rod is bent...and nearly wore through.. so I check them all and ive got 6 bent push rods.

So I break out the borescop a x check the faces of my pistons...#1 , had some damage. Yay

So I start towards pulling the engine...luckily the shift er base screws were already rounded out so i moved to separate engine and trans in chassis.

Header down pipe bolts are so fuck I death wheel 3 off and torch the last one. Pull the heads, there is some piston valve kissing but it might be run able. Hole 7 has a ring on top of the piston.

also there is a valve in the driverside exhaust that was rusted shut, which might explain it never idling.

I stopped pulling the engine as I dont have parts yet and I was passed. Moving the expected drive date to christmas...

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Toreadorranger

Atomic Test Lab Rat
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
874
Messages
638
Location
CT
With the new found condition of the motor Is the plan still to revive it? or pickup something else?
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
With the new found condition of the motor Is the plan still to revive it? or pickup something else?

I'm not surnot could do a cheap rebuild for about a grand. I could bore and stroke it for 2 grand add in heads and intake and we at 3500.00

I coild stick a 429 in it but i have no trans

Same with a 400m

Briefly thought about a rb25 or a 12v..
​​​​12vmaybe even a barra.

There's even 2 7.3 psd on the rack at work and a old v8 cat

I'll build some options on paper and make a decision.
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
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Member Number
1216
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493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
so i believe im going to stick with the 352 my other options have to many hang ups..mainly being transmission. Again im cheap

1k dollar rebuild or 1900 dollar stroker kit..thats my tear. Keep the cylinder heads for now..switch to 4 barrel intake and swap a new carb on it.
 

Poriggity

Ketchup Dog
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
45
Messages
707
Location
Bates City, Mo
so i believe im going to stick with the 352 my other options have to many hang ups..mainly being transmission. Again im cheap

1k dollar rebuild or 1900 dollar stroker kit..thats my tear. Keep the cylinder heads for now..switch to 4 barrel intake and swap a new carb on it.

Spend the extra money to stroke it if you can. Just my opinion.
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
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Tahlequah, OK
Spend the extra money to stroke it if you can. Just my opinion.

Thats what im planning on, itll bump it up to 440ci
Keep stock heads and install a cam. I do want to eventually turbo it so i need to set down a find a good middle ground with good power on a middle ground compression ratio.

Honestly this thread is gonna sit a little bit, ive got some medical stuff to deal with here in july that i need some extra scratch for. So engine will wait, some suspension stuff is gonna happen. Looking at buying booger (grendel) front suspension so i can have front disk brakes (rear are super easy, its a dana 60)
 

Broncokyle88

The Great Kornholio
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44
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1,453
Location
Pennsyltucky
Some photos

I think all fords of that vintage have the push rod welded like that. The fuckers used like 14 different kinds with no rhyme or reason to it, so you get pissed off trying to find the right one and just make what the parts man give you work. On my dentside they didn’t even cut the wrong end off the booster, they just welded the old one on beside it
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
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Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
I think all fords of that vintage have the push rod welded like that. The fuckers used like 14 different kinds with no rhyme or reason to it, so you get pissed off trying to find the right one and just make what the parts man give you work. On my dentside they didn’t even cut the wrong end off the booster, they just welded the old one on beside it

honestly ill forget about it...the master is already back in..:cookie:
 

Broncokyle88

The Great Kornholio
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honestly ill forget about it...the master is already back in..:cookie:

I’d have just loped my off and welded it to the new one (but done a better job of it) if I wasn’t swapping hydro boost onto it. If it’s been working all these years, there’s clearly nothing that wrong with it
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
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Member Number
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Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
Thinking about having this truck moved from the ranch to my house so i can do the time consuming shit . I was enjoying working on it with my dad but it fuckin sucks laying on the ground. Thinking that while im doing the floor plans and shit it be a lot nicer to be at my house instead of in the woods relying on the times i have my service truck so i can horribly stick weld shit in.

My mig welds look OK and hold. My stick welds look like shit and sometimes dont hold LOL

Oh and i decided to stroke it for 1900 bucks its not a bad deal. i really need to pull the engine and get it to the machine shop so i can see where i currently stand. Ill rebuild the heads so i can stop putting lead in the gas tank. Install a mild cam. I hope that engine will be ready to go back in by december. Hopefully in that time frame ill have the chassis ready to go.

I did spot that american powertrain makes a tko500 or tko600 drop in kit for this engine. So ill be shooting for that after engine goes in. 440ci with a small turbo and a 5 or 6 speed transmission.

I know projects are never done but the "end" goal is for me to use this to tow a RV, bumperpull, with my motorcycle in the bed

Those retro styled RV s are the tits too

For example
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not that exact one but it just happens to match the color scheme of my truck
 
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evernoob

Reactionary
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May 21, 2020
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Messages
4,600
I don't understand why you are talking about rebuilding those known shit heads and putting on a turbo instead of aftermarket heads. Why do you want to put boost on a low-end price rebuild? Did you figure out all the little quirks with FE oiling and plan on fixing that? They should drill out the gallery and do the little chamfering work behind the oil pump. There's some other mods to do around the main bearing oiling holes as well.

There's a lot of stuff to pay attention to on an FE. I have literally never done one I just watch engine rebuilds on the internet so I am a keyboard expert, but there really is a lot of small things you have to pay attention to or that motor is going to make you very, very anti-FE. If you pay attention to them, you're going to be very, very pro-FE. That's just my armchair expert opinion from watching people mess with these things. The good part is these are known and well-documented issues these days, not some arcane magic knowledge like back in the 1980s that probably led to this engine kind of being a piece of crap.

Seems like instead of dreaming about $2,500 transmissions you need to be paying attention to what your machine shop is giving you for $1900. It's not a SBC but it's not a worse motor, just a less-known one. You dump $1900 into it for guys that don't understand it you're going to be disappointed.

Give that motor the respect it deserves.
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
I don't understand why you are talking about rebuilding those known shit heads and putting on a turbo instead of aftermarket heads. Why do you want to put boost on a low-end price rebuild? Did you figure out all the little quirks with FE oiling and plan on fixing that? They should drill out the gallery and do the little chamfering work behind the oil pump. There's some other mods to do around the main bearing oiling holes as well.

There's a lot of stuff to pay attention to on an FE. I have literally never done one I just watch engine rebuilds on the internet so I am a keyboard expert, but there really is a lot of small things you have to pay attention to or that motor is going to make you very, very anti-FE. If you pay attention to them, you're going to be very, very pro-FE. That's just my armchair expert opinion from watching people mess with these things. The good part is these are known and well-documented issues these days, not some arcane magic knowledge like back in the 1980s that probably led to this engine kind of being a piece of crap.

Seems like instead of dreaming about $2,500 transmissions you need to be paying attention to what your machine shop is giving you for $1900. It's not a SBC but it's not a worse motor, just a less-known one. You dump $1900 into it for guys that don't understand it you're going to be disappointed.

Give that motor the respect it deserves.

I have a few use 7.3 psd turbos just laying around i can throw a cartrige in one for 150$ boom its a new turbo.

heads options are not that plentiful and quite expensive vs what im getting out of them.

ive heard about oilling mods but havent look into them

1900 is just the parts to stroke it. Thats 0 machining. its just a kit

http://survivalmotorsports.com/FE-Engine-Kits.html


i have to work out of town this week which means this weekend ill have my service truck. Im gonna pull the engine and finish stripping it and do some measuring

I want to do alot and i have a lot of ideas and if i ignored things in my life i shouldnt ignore. I could build a really awesome engine and stick it a chassis im not gonna do alot of awesome shit to.

In the past week or so i keep having to convince myself stroking it is the best option..ive also been thinking i should just refresh it and keep trucking.

i appreciate your input, i havent done anything yet
 

evernoob

Reactionary
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I have a few use 7.3 psd turbos just laying around i can throw a cartrige in one for 150$ boom its a new turbo.

heads options are not that plentiful and quite expensive vs what im getting out of them.

ive heard about oilling mods but havent look into them

1900 is just the parts to stroke it. Thats 0 machining. its just a kit

http://survivalmotorsports.com/FE-Engine-Kits.html


i have to work out of town this week which means this weekend ill have my service truck. Im gonna pull the engine and finish stripping it and do some measuring

I want to do alot and i have a lot of ideas and if i ignored things in my life i shouldnt ignore. I could build a really awesome engine and stick it a chassis im not gonna do alot of awesome shit to.

In the past week or so i keep having to convince myself stroking it is the best option..ive also been thinking i should just refresh it and keep trucking.

i appreciate your input, i havent done anything yet

Fair enough, I'm quite the expert with other people's money and never having rebuilt a car engine and just reading and watching videos.

The oiling thing seems mandatory if you're going to stroke it. It's nothing but equivalent to bench porting work and if you buy the long drill bit you can do exactly what the machine shop is going to do. You were talking turbo, FI, and a stroker kit so I was wondering what will go on. It seems there is a good chance those heads could be broken anyway but you are in Oklahoma with mild/hot weather so maybe they're ok. I think magnafluxing them is mandatory. You're probably pre-smog FE so maybe they aren't 'shit' exactly, too strong of language on my part. You just have to figure out what they are and they're not cracked.

Keep us updated, it's a cool old truck and FEs are interesting and cool. IMO the best-sounding US made engine by far.
 

Wolfe_Man

Don't Label Me!
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
242
Messages
183
Location
Apple Valley CA.
ive heard about oilling mods but havent look into them

Heres a couple cheats. Open the drain back holes in the heads where the head bolts go (shared bore), Make an oil restrictor for the rocker arm oiling port. PAY ATTENTION to the special bolt that comes out of that one stud as it is different than the other 3 (longer and necks down so oil can get around it into rocker shaft).

Here is the oil restrictor I made. They "say" a Holley jet will work but I've never come across a head that it will so I turn out a small piece of aluminum rod on my lathe and drill it and carefully drive it i. I "think" I used an .068 drill (been a few years now)

IMG_20131026_142121_244.jpg


the after pic below sucks but carefully open up these ports on both sides of the heads so oil doesnt just fill your valve covers with sustained higher RPM

This is "stock" oil drainback on the side of the head bolt... tiny shit.

IMG_20131026_131652_770.jpg


Pull the bolt and open it with a burr on the one side only. This is a shit pic but you can see with the light showing its about 4x larger than factory (do all corners the same way).


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This is how above motor ended up in a 67 Fairlane with a TKO 5 speed behind it

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A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK

Appreciate it man. Saw your company on hoonigan btw. That stuff looked way better than yalls stock photos.


So an update.

I metioned that i was stepping back because of medical stuff. Its done..IT cost about 15 grand.
Im stepping back from stroker and just trying to get it moving.

Im gonna do the oil modifications. do a quick cheap rebuild.

Thinking a cam, 4 barrel intake.

Take advantage of the low compression ratio now.

Install shorty headers, hack em off and vband it to a old 7.3 psd turbo i have or if maybe re house the 6.4 turbo i have.

Think i can skirt that buy and get it moving by christmas


There is a very slim chance but still a possibility of this.

At one of my locations a drunk driver plowed through the fence and totaled a truck, its a 2014 f550 with a 6.7. If that can be had for cheap ill swap the engine and trans over. The frame is the severely bent or id take the chassis and just swap the body over (1967 f550 4x4 would be sweet huh)
 
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Projectjunkie

Whatever
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May 19, 2020
Member Number
306
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Tucson Az
Take the severely bent frame and straighten it

seriously, you have a truck with a crane and torches, it couldn't possibly be more work or money than boxing the 67 frame and converting to discs


also, I'd be looking at motor swaps all day long, an fe is cool in a clean vintage muscle car, but once you add the parts up between a stock rebuild, an aluminum manifold, headers that don't leak, a decent carb, then make it overdrive so you can get 13mpg, you see why everybody does ls swaps, crown Vic swaps, diesel swaps, etc, a half worn out $1k modern power plant has more serviceable life left in it than a fresh $5k vintage build

Years ago I realised my highboy 360 was spent, I parked it until I could take on a Cummins swap with the overdrive tranny. Total swap cost me 3-4 grand, 17.5mpg in the fast lane on 35s

Being able to hit the key and roll out is a beautiful thing

either way you go, take pics, it'll be cool to see it hit the road:smokin:
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
Member Number
1216
Messages
493
Location
Tahlequah, OK
Take the severely bent frame and straighten it

seriously, you have a truck with a crane and torches, it couldn't possibly be more work or money than boxing the 67 frame and converting to discs


also, I'd be looking at motor swaps all day long, an fe is cool in a clean vintage muscle car, but once you add the parts up between a stock rebuild, an aluminum manifold, headers that don't leak, a decent carb, then make it overdrive so you can get 13mpg, you see why everybody does ls swaps, crown Vic swaps, diesel swaps, etc, a half worn out $1k modern power plant has more serviceable life left in it than a fresh $5k vintage build

Years ago I realised my highboy 360 was spent, I parked it until I could take on a Cummins swap with the overdrive tranny. Total swap cost me 3-4 grand, 17.5mpg in the fast lane on 35s

Being able to hit the key and roll out is a beautiful thing

either way you go, take pics, it'll be cool to see it hit the road:smokin:

The unit is a bucket truck, legal issues and liabilities we cant use it as a unit again, the bucket unit would have to be sent to the manf for dismantle and inspection. That would cost more than the unit is worth..it is literally a bump in the road right now.

I on the other hand would bend the frame back and drop the body of the 67 on it :rolleyes:

I know i know. Ive got a 429 at my house right now i cant put it in. This build is a sticky shit situation.

Although its my money and my truck now. If i differ to much from what my dad views as his old truck im gonna hear about it. Honestly though i think i could swap that 429 in and he wouldnt be able to tell the difference.

Ive been rolling around the idea of putting a diesel in it but i kinda want to find a old f6 nad modernize that.

So kind of off topic a little bit but.

My coworker bought the last wrecked bucket truck, 01 f550 7.3 and grafted a 83 f350 on to it. Its the floor pan under the drive seat forward sheet metal from a 01. With out fenders and hood from the 83 hung over it. One of the neatest sketchiest things ive ever ridden in. I think i have a photo of the abomination named franken-ford

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Projectjunkie

Whatever
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306
Messages
1,993
Location
Tucson Az
That actually looks better than I expected:laughing:

if the 83 clears the 01, the 67 should clear the 14, with a little patience, and a little attention tu detail, it could be done nicely
 

A_G

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Tahlequah, OK
So im adding another truck to fix one truck.

My dad really didnt like the new chassis swap, he was cool with it at first and later not so much. It started with you "gotta keep the engine, thatll keep the value" then it was "why do you want new suspension" Then i told him i haft to cut the entire floor out and graft them together to add a/c and retain factory mounting etc etc he was totally noped the fuck out on that.

My co worker has a 68 that he has been trying to get me to buy for a bit and i finally went and looked at it. Sheet metal is perfect, it has power steering and disk brakes.

Its a f100 and id love to just use it but the the agreement i have with wife unit is that i use it for parts NOT TWO TRUCKS lol

So im getting a 1968 f100 with a 400 and a c6

2 turbos off a 6.5 diesel, flanges/headers that go to a 400 to mount said turbos, that suck through a carb.

3 4 barrel carbs

another 400
and another c6

for.....
1k dollars

The cab has 10 yr old floor pans in it, the sheet metal is straight and fairly rust free.

Im just going to swap the cab and front clip straight over most likely the bed.

My 67 needs both inner fenders, the core support, both front fenders, the panel under the grill, the front bumper the a pillar at the driveside door (truck rolled down a hill with the driver door open 🙄when my dad was in HS) needs floor pans, needs 2 cab mounts.

I mean fuck the cab and the front clip are worth the deal anyways

Im a fucking car part hoarder so i have no idea what im doing with the 2 running assemblies

edit: the one 400/c6 is mounted in the truck has roller rockers, edelbrock heads, intake. But i did loose oil pressure might be siezed, the other engine was the replacement and so was its transmission.

The big debate now is do i use the 400 is it really worth it?

I could probably force that with my dad, i could also just put it in an dhe wouldnt know the differance...if i went with 400 it uses the same bellhousing pattern as a 460 which means i could find a zf5 and it would just bolt up.

i could stick with the 352 and just rebuild it and put it in, "finish" the truck and buy a galaxy 500 and mount a 400/c6 TT in it...No idea how im going to convince the wife unit of that one

Power steering swap is going to be easy, swap box, pump, get pump brackets if i stick with 352, swap column and linkages.

disk brake is going to be tricky. The king pins are the same so i could just take the whole front suspension off and swap it straight over BUT. the OD of the spindle shaft is different f100 to f250. I could try to find a bearing that makes up the differnce and mount f250 disks (to get the 8 studs) and mount them on a f100 spindle. IT appears just looking at parts numbers that the ID of the bearings are within .115" of eachother. That might be doable, probably dangerous...

could have 5 lugs front and 8 lugs rear

could use a adapter either front or rear..

or i could get this truck down to the ranch..and then sceep it
 
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bigun

Red Skull Member
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May 19, 2020
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141
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3,089
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Mountainair, NM
The 67 F250 camper special had disk brakes, but good luck finding one. IIRC so did the F450s and up
 

klork

Well-known member
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May 19, 2020
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73
Messages
47
not sure of the parts interchange but my 71 f350 2wd also has front disc brakes.
 

A_G

Semi-Controlled rage
Joined
May 22, 2020
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1216
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Tahlequah, OK
(Untitled)

67-79 is the range on suspension.

I got 68 at the ranch now

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