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1940 Cincinnati No 2 High Speed Vertical Mill Partial Refurb and Repairs

AlxJ64

Rust is Paint
Joined
Feb 3, 2021
Member Number
3436
Messages
647
Loc
Richmond / Cville - VA
I've always wanted an old Cinci No series Vertical Mill. Yes, the Hz is probably more versatile but the Vertical machines are just works of art to me. Also, yes, Fireball Tool has a No 6 and it dwarfs this No 2 by an additional nearly +11k lbs (this machine is 7200 to 8k depending on what resource you use and what features it may have had)
Found one on the ol' FB Marketplace back in March but the seller wanted "actual" money for it. I asked a few questions about it but then had a list of other things and expenses arise. Well, same machine shows up again in November and the price is no longer actual money and is including RPC and potentially some tooling with it.
(I had started to type out the long story of how the seller failed to inform me that the head on the machine was stuck, both in text and verbal phone conversations. Additionally he lied about reasons for the handles being removed was not for preservation during moving but rather due to having a broken drive box, and the retrieval location was significantly steeper and tighter than he described and even the photos that were sent were mixtures of where he bought it vs where it was now and hid or skewed the situation and differed than verbally described) - see photo of tiny attached garage in a tiny tight neighborhood. I was livid when I arrived to find the issues but also had prepared myself as I was getting the sketchy vibe from the situation. I told him no deal unless the price dropped because the situation I drove 600 miles to find was undeniably not what had been described and information had been withheld. He played the "I thought I told you, must have been someone else I talked to". He asked what kind of rengotiation and I said its basically artistic scrap / parts at this point and a lot of the tooling is crashed. So, he dropped to a number that did in fact make me stay despite really wanting to just go back to the Jacksonville Zoo and wander around there with my GF and buddy. (My GF loves Manatees, but had never seen one in real life, so I made it a special thing and we swung through there first thing in the morning so she could get to see them).

I had built a roller cart to assemble under the machine and brought the kitchen sink load of my rigging gear and had even pre-cut some oak dunnage blocks on the chainsaw mill. A plan was in place, until my toe jack failed and we were left using a 5/8" travel 30 ton puck jack and stacking shim plates to pick it up. As a form of karma though, when winching the machine up the trailer, the angle caused the oil sump to overrun the base and dumped a good gallon of very stinky vintage machine oil down the guy's driveway.

Once the machine was in the shop yesterday evening, I started to dig into it some to see what actually ended up with, as well as the tooling. Theres a few decent holders and a few decent shell mills but a LOT of crashed tooling where the insert seats are just gnarled. Deciphering the sellers murmurings it appears he got it from a shop that went under so he got everything from current use tooling to the shelf of trashed stuff that they were keeping around to steal hardware out of.

As for the feed box issues, its not actually the box at all, that looks to be in great condition. The actual issue is the pinion gear head for the rack setup that drives the head up and down. Certainly something that I should be able to fix by either remachining a new gear or welding up and re-hobbing this gear itself. If not, I do know someone with a nice HAAS and I'll give him a drawing and call in a favor.

Pictures speak more words than I do, and I speak a lot of words. I'll keep this thread running as I work on the machine and get it under power. Ohh, at some point someone took apart and lost the parts for the speed and feed selector handle for the table side controls, but the controls still work at the side of the machine, it appears. Who knows until it goes under power.

Packed garage, the machine barely fit out and using a warn pulls-all to control it down the grade of the trailer deck before binding it.
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The GF did help a LOT.
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Before going into my place.
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Bobcat to start the machine up the deck until the dove, then the Warn 10k on the trailer deck, on a snatch block setup to lower it down the runners.
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As it sits, still need to remove the roller cart.
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Some more photos. Here is the inside of the head feed box, and another view down inside the top of the column. There are two counter-weights on chains that help with the head. The pinion gear on the rack (can't see it in photos) is what is stripped out. It doesn't appear that the rack gear on the head gib is damaged much but I'll know more after pulling the sprocketed cross shaft and lifting out the weights. The weights are already tapped to put a lifting eye in! Good job Cinci!

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How much did you pay for yours? I paid $600 and $900 to move.

You loaded that thing the sketchy way. The front is the heavy side.

You're definitely going to get yours up and running before I do.

Make sure you take lots of pics of the disassembly process to make my life easier. :flipoff2:
 
How much did you pay for yours? I paid $600 and $900 to move.

You loaded that thing the sketchy way. The front is the heavy side.

You're definitely going to get yours up and running before I do.

Make sure you take lots of pics of the disassembly process to make my life easier. :flipoff2:
Same sum, different ratios; I've got $400 total tied up in moving it (if you count the Zoo part of the trip as the hotel portion of the cost because I'd have just made it one long day otherwise).

Mine included some tooling and holders (though much of it is badly crashed or weird obsolete stuff) and a 7.5 HP RPC though too. The direction of loading was the result of how the machine was sitting already and not having any room / justification to spin it 180 degrees. We pulled up high on the machine when on the incline and in both situations the trailer deck was quite downhill so the dove was less steep than flat ground so it was at least better. It wasn't too sketch except when one of the angles we were using for rails under the roller decided to move a little and we had a sudden shift in weight.

It'll be a hot minute, but I probably will have it running by spring hopefully. How much backlash is in your Table X and Y?

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I haven't even checked my table for backlash. It's been rusting in a garage for 2yr now and was used by a railroad museum before that so I'm sure it's a lot.

Having a flat enough X that the table doesn't gain/lose a few thou of Z over the course of its travel is more important to me.
 
Awesome I have always wanted one of those guys, along with a horizontal. . Take lots of pics we like to see this stuff. I have a deep love of that old iron.

However I have come to the realization that I just need to get a vf3-4 and be done. A decent cnc mill can put that shit to shame. A 20x40x25 work window with some probes, excites me on what I could do. It would be a game changer.

I know arse_sidewards will berate me for saying this. I do big heavy shit for a living and there is hardly a time where even I could put that thing to its full potential, let alone justifying a spot in a heated garage.
 
I know arse_sidewards will berate me for saying this. I do big heavy shit for a living and there is hardly a time where even I could put that thing to its full potential, let alone justifying a spot in a heated garage.

Yeah, CNC is definitely better for the "I'm gonna make a run of two dozen of some random shape that gets plasma'd out and has two simple machined features" stuff you do whereas I can't think of the last time I've ever done a part that wasn't a one off.

These old mills really shine when it comes to one off repair projects on parts that are big enough to induce flex in a Bridgeport.

Imagine trying to deck a block on a bridgeport. You have flex in every part of the mill and tool you need to dial out. For a part you absolutely can't scrap (because it would cost so much money to replace it would defeat the point of doing it yourself) that's kind of a nightmare. With a big mill you just have to know that your table and ways are flat/square in the direction you intend to travel and set your speeds and feeds appropriately. Of course having a rusty POS like I have mostly negates that. We'll see how it turns out.

You need a big lathe for all your hydraulics more than you need a big mill.
 
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FYI - Cincinnati still sells parts for most of those old machines. You probably won't like the price of that gear, but it is an option if you can't find anything else.


My Cinci hydrashift lathe needs a new crossfeed screw and nut. Haven't found the screw pricing yet, but the nut was something like $400 for a 1"x2"x1.5" chunk of bronze with a acme threaded hole in it. Unfortunately it's a goofy size so I can't just buy a piece of pre-made acme leasdcrew and turn the ends to size. But I did find a 7/16" acme tap on ebay from China for $20 so I'll at least be able to make the nut and that should take about half the backlash out of the crossfeed.
 
What a dick grumpy. Yeah Alex will post pics for you to jerk off to 🤦
 
I worked on those old Cincinnati millicron mills in the 80sand early 90s when I worked maintenance for Dana Corp. Vert or horizontal mills set up to do a single operation, key way slot or locating pad for the next operation, then rapid back to home.
I wish you all the best at never ever having to repair it. They are about the most versatile and complex machines. The side gearbox with speed and feed controls is impossible to work on. 400 meshed gears, it makes an automatic transmission rebuild look like child's play.
I figure that your mill is from the 40s or50s
 
I worked on those old Cincinnati millicron mills in the 80sand early 90s when I worked maintenance for Dana Corp. Vert or horizontal mills set up to do a single operation, key way slot or locating pad for the next operation, then rapid back to home.
I wish you all the best at never ever having to repair it. They are about the most versatile and complex machines. The side gearbox with speed and feed controls is impossible to work on. 400 meshed gears, it makes an automatic transmission rebuild look like child's play.
Great. Because I drained about a quart of condensation/rain out of mine. :shaking:
 
What a dick grumpy. Yeah Alex will post pics for you to jerk off to 🤦
If mostly clothed girls are his thing, then he might be able to, but I don't think he meant it in that way. She's a good looking girl who likes to go on these adventures with me so there's quite a good chance there will be more pics of her; most likely even helping me work on this machine.

I worked on those old Cincinnati millicron mills in the 80sand early 90s when I worked maintenance for Dana Corp. Vert or horizontal mills set up to do a single operation, key way slot or locating pad for the next operation, then rapid back to home.
I wish you all the best at never ever having to repair it. They are about the most versatile and complex machines. The side gearbox with speed and feed controls is impossible to work on. 400 meshed gears, it makes an automatic transmission rebuild look like child's play.
I figure that your mill is from the 40s or50s
As the title of the thread indicates, it is in fact a 1940... 81st unit on the books of 1940 based on the Cinci SN decoding method for the era of the machines. Full SN Decode is that its a High Speed model OM actually.

Great. Because I drained about a quart of condensation/rain out of mine. :shaking:
Just a quart? This thing had a gallon of water come out of the bottom of it when it was being loaded and unloaded. I am going to drain the sump and any gearboxes before putting power to it. I still think it will be fine, especially since we are not running these things all day in production.

If you have a problem with that post, this might not be the site for you.
(I’m not being sarcastic or funny. Seriously)


Go back to the place from which you came.
I'll have to second this^. Not being mean, but the comments on the girl were honestly taken as a compliment and a "boys in yard" conversational jest. She's actually my Girlfriend. I got divorced two years ago and then met this girl back in March of this year. She's sweet as can be, a little bit wild, a fun amount of crazy, and down to go on trips like this one to pickup big machinery. Tatt'd, 5'1", 112 lbs.

Back to the machine.
Messed with it a little more this evening and realized that I forgot to mention that the linkage for the Rapid Traverse and for the table end Speed Feed selection are both missing. The more I look at it, the more I wager that they were both damaged during a move from improper rigging. There are "Property of US Navy" tags all over the thing, literally inside and out, so no doubt the poor thing was abused... OR... it was used for teaching and they removed both of these linkages to keep knuckle heads from grabbing levers that would cause death or damage faster than anything else. The stripped power feed and missing linkages, navy tags... yea, poor thing was definitely abused.

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Its clean as hell inside though for living in the south for however long.
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And here's a pic of her... with me... the real eye candy in the pic. She trains Guide Dogs and teaches blind kids.
Screenshot_20210818-105823_Instagram.jpg
 
Just a quart? This thing had a gallon of water come out of the bottom of it when it was being loaded and unloaded. I am going to drain the sump and any gearboxes before putting power to it. I still think it will be fine, especially since we are not running these things all day in production.
I'm talking about the gearbox on the left side of the mill with the dials on it. It's been awhile. There was definitely more oil by volume but there was a lot of water in there that shouldn't be.
 
The wife isn't bad either. :laughing:
Pictured is just the GF. If you want ex-wife stuff you gotta go to the Hotmess Express Jeep build or go find Hotmess Zumba videos on the U-tubes. Enjoy, but don't bring any of it over here.
Goes for all ya'll.

I'm talking about the gearbox on the left side of the mill with the dials on it. It's been awhile. There was definitely more oil by volume but there was a lot of water in there that shouldn't be.

Yea, that might be a bit messy. Its NOT 400 gears in the feed box as mentioned earlier. Theres not 400 gears in the whole machine. Theres not even 40 gears in the feed box and its really not that complex. The rapid traverse clutch is part of the feed box and is a neat little finger style wedge clutch. Looks frail as all get out though looking through the access cover; I'll post a pic of that later. For the meantime here are some drawings of the '38 to '42 OM version machines.

feedbox1.JPG

feedbox2.JPG

feedbox3.JPG

feedbox4.JPG

Feedbox5.JPG
 
Yea, that might be a bit messy. Its NOT 400 gears in the feed box as mentioned earlier. Theres not 400 gears in the whole machine. Theres not even 40 gears in the feed box and its really not that complex. The rapid traverse clutch is part of the feed box and is a neat little finger style wedge clutch. Looks frail as all get out though looking through the access cover; I'll post a pic of that later. For the meantime here are some drawings of the '38 to '42 OM version machines.

feedbox1.JPG
That should be stupid simple so long as clearance/play specs can be found.
 
I'll have to second this^. Not being mean, but the comments on the girl were honestly taken as a compliment and a "boys in yard" conversational jest. She's actually my Girlfriend. I got divorced two years ago and then met this girl back in March of this year. She's sweet as can be, a little bit wild, a fun amount of crazy, and down to go on trips like this one to pickup big machinery. Tatt'd, 5'1", 112 lbs.

And here's a pic of her... with me... the real eye candy in the pic. She trains Guide Dogs and teaches blind kids.
Screenshot_20210818-105823_Instagram.jpg

You forgot to add that she’s obviously blind too :flipoff2:

Nice mill :smokin:
 
imagine trying to fit a block in the work envelope of even a #5 vertical

btw, there was a free #5 vert on CL a few years back
Angle plate motherfucker. I said deck. Not bore :flipoff2:
Seriously, don't do that, it would chatter like a motherfucker.
It helps a lot that I do small car shit and not 20" tall school bus diesel engine shit. Between the Z and the spindle travel a #2 vertical can fit a ~18" object on the table before tooling. That's plenty to bore most inline engines. A Ford 300 has a 10" deck height. Obviously you could find yourself out of room if you're trying to deal with an old deep skirted block with a tall deck.

That said, I ultimately want a similar sized horizontal with a vertical head. More versatile for a given shop footprint and the unlimited Z-space is useful for working with big odd assemblies. Imagine trying to get a snapped bolt out of a trans valve body. Massive chore on the vertical. Stupid easy on the horizontal. Bolt the bell to the table and away you go.
 
imagine trying to fit a block in the work envelope of even a #5 vertical

btw, there was a free #5 vert on CL a few years back
A free one of these... a #5 at 18k lbs... sadly about the only thing I could have done with it would be put a tent over it and part it out and then turn the remaining frame into a jungle gym or something, be pretty cool slide ladder.


In the true nature and standard condition of vintage machines, the wiring insulation is nice and crunchy, so certainly going to fix that. Looking at the motor starter setup and on the fence as to a few different options. The machine came with a 7.5 hp RPC and I have a few other 3 phase machines that need to be wired yet, (tool grinder, big big Barnes gear drive drill press, and a 36" throat bandsaw).

For the Cinci...
Re-wire it with new machine wire but using the original starter and buttons until it catches on fire, or just doesn't work and I have to stop what I am doing and find a new starter. Word on the skreet is that the hold coil step down transformers in these Allen Bradley boxes will burn up shortly after they start to weep a little oil... well, this one is a sad cookie so it has me thinking about the next option.

Rip out the wires and install new wires, a new DOL starter with thermal protection in the original box and use the original buttons. But, new starters seem to be kind of pricey right now, at least for a decent GE or Square D that isn't chinesium. So if I went with Chinesium... I've seen some decent priced VFDs. so I could go with the next option,

Rip out all of the wires, gut the starter box entirely but leave in place for aesthetics, rewire motor and button new wires, mount a large VFD to the wall and control it with rewired original buttons that still go through the original starter box but control the VFD to the motor. My big Colchester lathe is wired the same way is this and it runs amazing. I've read that over rating a VFD application for single phase to 3 phase isn't really a thing IF the VFD is HP rated AS a single phase to 3 phase power source for the Output. Talked to the Movable Bridge electrical engineer on this and he agreed on this as well. So, I've found some VFDs, in the same brand as the one powering my lathe, for a reasonable price, actually not much more than the cost of a nice new mag starter switch with thermal. I could even still oversize it some by going with a 10 HP just for S&G.

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Oh, one other thing, in regards to the heavy end discussion from the original post. This diagram and comment in the service manual for the machine makes me think that the ass end is the heavy end, otherwise why move the saddle to the extreme for balance?

Lifting balance.JPG
 
When they lifted mine with a fork lift the fork with the front of the machine on it was the unhappy one.

Put it on a single roller if you really wanna know what the balance point is.
 
A free one of these... a #5 at 18k lbs... sadly about the only thing I could have done with it would be put a tent over it and part it out and then turn the remaining frame into a jungle gym or something, be pretty cool slide ladder.


In the true nature and standard condition of vintage machines, the wiring insulation is nice and crunchy, so certainly going to fix that. Looking at the motor starter setup and on the fence as to a few different options. The machine came with a 7.5 hp RPC and I have a few other 3 phase machines that need to be wired yet, (tool grinder, big big Barnes gear drive drill press, and a 36" throat bandsaw).

For the Cinci...
Re-wire it with new machine wire but using the original starter and buttons until it catches on fire, or just doesn't work and I have to stop what I am doing and find a new starter. Word on the skreet is that the hold coil step down transformers in these Allen Bradley boxes will burn up shortly after they start to weep a little oil... well, this one is a sad cookie so it has me thinking about the next option.

Rip out the wires and install new wires, a new DOL starter with thermal protection in the original box and use the original buttons. But, new starters seem to be kind of pricey right now, at least for a decent GE or Square D that isn't chinesium. So if I went with Chinesium... I've seen some decent priced VFDs. so I could go with the next option,

Rip out all of the wires, gut the starter box entirely but leave in place for aesthetics, rewire motor and button new wires, mount a large VFD to the wall and control it with rewired original buttons that still go through the original starter box but control the VFD to the motor. My big Colchester lathe is wired the same way is this and it runs amazing. I've read that over rating a VFD application for single phase to 3 phase isn't really a thing IF the VFD is HP rated AS a single phase to 3 phase power source for the Output. Talked to the Movable Bridge electrical engineer on this and he agreed on this as well. So, I've found some VFDs, in the same brand as the one powering my lathe, for a reasonable price, actually not much more than the cost of a nice new mag starter switch with thermal. I could even still oversize it some by going with a 10 HP just for S&G.



Oh, one other thing, in regards to the heavy end discussion from the original post. This diagram and comment in the service manual for the machine makes me think that the ass end is the heavy end, otherwise why move the saddle to the extreme for balance?

If the VFD is 5hp rated as a 220 1ph to 208 3ph, no need to build in more power. The legs can handle the extra amperage on the supply side for the rated output. If it's not, then double it.

Anything but off brand VFDs are hard to get right now. 3 week wait for a simple Lenze 4x 1hp 110v->220v 3ph VFD, the 5hp+ 4x Yaskawa's are just not on any shelf.

It took me 3 suppliers to find a pair of DIN mount 4a 110v single pole D breakers yesterday, and they're getting drop shipped from a 3rd party warehouse on the east coast.

I vote for rewire, I had the same issue on an older 3ph Delta drill. Pulled the switch out and the insulation just started popping off all the wires. Very sketchy to do anything but rip it all out. Luckily the leads in the motor to the windings had very pliable insulation still.
 
A free one of these... a #5 at 18k lbs... sadly about the only thing I could have done with it would be put a tent over it and part it out and then turn the remaining frame into a jungle gym or something, be pretty cool slide ladder.
I have zero doubt that it went straight to the scrap yard, sadly
 
Heres a clean looking one on the west coast. Doesn't have powered head feed but also doesn't look nearly as abused as mine.

 
Got bored and pulled the lower spindle bearing cover to find that someone had pulled it loose and left it as such; there is scorching inside the head and on top of the first few threads where it was dancing around for a bit while being run. I reached out to the seller but didn't expect a response. 3 days later I get a "I didn't take that apart". So I asked him to confirm that this machine was in fact running at some point when he had it... "The guy showed me it running when I bought it"...
and thats all I got out of him. At this point, I'm going to just dig deeper into this thing that planned; oh well. Whether or not its "worth it" in the end is up to me and not anyone else. I enjoy fixing this kinda stuff.

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Got bored and pulled the lower spindle bearing cover to find that someone had pulled it loose and left it as such; there is scorching inside the head and on top of the first few threads where it was dancing around for a bit while being run. I reached out to the seller but didn't expect a response. 3 days later I get a "I didn't take that apart". So I asked him to confirm that this machine was in fact running at some point when he had it... "The guy showed me it running when I bought it"...
and thats all I got out of him. At this point, I'm going to just dig deeper into this thing that planned; oh well. Whether or not its "worth it" in the end is up to me and not anyone else. I enjoy fixing this kinda stuff.

20211226_184058.jpg
Well that's pretty stupid huh.
I wouldn't worry about it being "worth it" , it will be "worth it" when its running and you will no what you have.
 
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