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1410 or 1350 flange to toyota tcase

chaplinfj60

chaplinfj60

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Member Number
3057
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3,487
Loc
marshalltown iowa
good afternoon all,

so currently i run one tons with 1410 ujoints at the axle and toyota joints at the tcase. does anyone make a flange so i can 1410 all the way around? or what is a good solution. i was want to do possible do double card. joint with 1350 as a possible solution because i get crazy vibration at 20 mph or more, and i dont want to point pinion down much more.

thanks.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
1410 SERIES - DRIVESHAFT 4 BOLT UNIVERSAL JOINT FLANGE YOKE - 2.75" MALE PILOT - SKU# 3-2-159 - Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline

Blank Toyota Flange, Fits 27 Spline Pinion and Transfer Case, Trail-Gear

Judging by the published dimensions, you should be able to get the 1410 flange pattern machined on the blank flange. Assuming you’re still running the toy gear drive.
Click to expand...
I drew this up quickly to see if it would fit. It will fit, but it's pretty thin between the edge of the hole and the OD. I'm not sure how thin you could get before it starts to crack.

1627321585208.png
 
chaplinfj60 said:
omg thats thin but that what i was thinking. what about 1350 blank and do a double CD joint
Click to expand...
I don't know what all is out there for flanges. I was just looking on the website linked above. Based on this flange yoke, it doesn't get any better. I don't know if there are any 1350 yokes with less than a 3.75" bolt circle.

1963-1979 CORVETTE HALF SHAFT DRIVESHAFT 4-bolt FLANGE YOKE 360913 3843018 – SKU# 3-2-809

As for a double CD 1350 joint, I didn't see any on that site that had less than a 4.25" bolt circle. That wouldn't fit on the blank Yota flange.


1627325271872.png
 
Something we do all the time here at work on drivelines to dynos running 1000+hp on industrial diesels is building an adapter that utilizes countersunk holes with allen capscrews to the dyno drive flange. Then we thread the adapter and pilot it properly for the driveshaft flange. It solves the differences in pilot hub dimentions. Most of are adapters are built out of 1 to 1.25" mild steel plate and hold up for 1000's of hours at full power. As long as the pilot hub is machined tightly enough, the bolts hold fine. I've personally built many of these and with a 3 axis mill it's pretty easy. If you are concerned with strength this is probably the best way, though you have twice the fasteners to work loose. We locktite all fasteners that end up under the flange 100%, and usually locktite all of them anyway. Can't remember having any work loose, unless we have reused a bolt too many times. If machined properly there is no issue with balance (read, machine everything centered on the pilot and finish machine all surfaces). I typically drill a hole clean through the adapter to make it easy to center when flipping it to machine both sides.
 
I bet jesse at high angle driveline would make you a toyota flange with that 1410 flange pattern on it.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Something we do all the time here at work on drivelines to dynos running 1000+hp on industrial diesels is building an adapter that utilizes countersunk holes with allen capscrews to the dyno drive flange. Then we thread the adapter and pilot it properly for the driveshaft flange. It solves the differences in pilot hub dimentions. Most of are adapters are built out of 1 to 1.25" mild steel plate and hold up for 1000's of hours at full power. As long as the pilot hub is machined tightly enough, the bolts hold fine. I've personally built many of these and with a 3 axis mill it's pretty easy. If you are concerned with strength this is probably the best way, though you have twice the fasteners to work loose. We locktite all fasteners that end up under the flange 100%, and usually locktite all of them anyway. Can't remember having any work loose, unless we have reused a bolt too many times. If machined properly there is no issue with balance (read, machine everything centered on the pilot and finish machine all surfaces). I typically drill a hole clean through the adapter to make it easy to center when flipping it to machine both sides.
Click to expand...

How much room is there between the transfer case and the flange? You may be able to tap the holes and put the bolts in from the back and not have any hidden fasteners.

I bet this could be made from aluminum and hold up just fine also.
 
jessie emailed back he has a 1350 toyota flange, that would be cool to make a double cv at tcase and 1410 at the axle end and may solve the huge vibration.

maybe i am over thinking a trail rig too.... hmmm...
 
If you are not hurting for angle, use that 1350 from jesse.
 
Are you running a double cardan Toyota joint at the t case or a single Toyota u joint?
 
chaplinfj60 said:
single joint at tcase
Click to expand...
How much angle are you running at full droop?
Maybe you can switch to a Toyota double cardan. They pull decent angle and many consider them to be in the realm of 1350 Double cardan strength.

since they are double cardan it should help with the driveline vibes
 
The angles enough that I put limits on the amount of droop so I don’t find the U joint and I think I will go to a double Carrdian Toyota style because I talk to Jesse at the driveline thing and a 1350 Toyota flange adapter thing was more than I wanted to spend for just that
 
1410 is pretty pointless with a Toyota case imo. Not a toy case hater, but they break plenty easy with big axles and Toyota drivelines :flipoff2:

Jesse has said that he believes Toyota to be roughly equal to 1350, if you run good Ujoints. I'd personally just run full Toyota drivelines, why make it harder or yourself? 1410 on one ends doesn't do shit if the other end is smaller. Do a cv at the case if you need it.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
The angles enough that I put limits on the amount of droop so I don’t find the U joint and I think I will go to a double Carrdian Toyota style because I talk to Jesse at the driveline thing and a 1350 Toyota flange adapter thing was more than I wanted to spend for just that
Click to expand...
Isn't your rig low? You shouldn't be getting vibes unless you have bad angles.

Also a si gle u joint will pull more angle than a cv.
 
its low yes, but i moved the engine back 11 inches and raised up the tcase a bit to get as level as possible, so i may have created that problem. i think what i will do is match each angle. because right now i just pointed the rear pinion to tcase. so i may have to just lower pinion some. :)
 
YotaAtieToo said:
1410 is pretty pointless with a Toyota case imo. Not a toy case hater, but they break plenty easy with big axles and Toyota drivelines :flipoff2:

Jesse has said that he believes Toyota to be roughly equal to 1350, if you run good Ujoints. I'd personally just run full Toyota drivelines, why make it harder or yourself? 1410 on one ends doesn't do shit if the other end is smaller. Do a cv at the case if you need it.
Click to expand...
fair statement. but this is just the way the axles were built. so i am keeping them that way, now maybe this winter i may revisit this and put toyota yokes on there. just dont know yet.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
its low yes, but i moved the engine back 11 inches and raised up the tcase a bit to get as level as possible, so i may have created that problem. i think what i will do is match each angle. because right now i just pointed the rear pinion to tcase. so i may have to just lower pinion some. :)
Click to expand...
I know it's not correct, but I've ran the pinion pointed at the tcase with single u joints in a crawler rig. The other thing you can do, which again, isn't correct, but crawlers can get away with it. Is point the pinion UP further so the angles match. :laughing:

Up to you, but tipping the pinion down will increase the angle at the case a lot. Just make sure you have enough oil to keep the pinion bearing happy.
 
I know this thread is a couple months old but here's some info. We have a 1350 compatible flange for the 27 spline toyota transfer case. We have them for Toyota diffs too. Here's the one for the transfer case Toyota Transfer Case Flange, 1310/1350 Series, Rear.

That flange actually could also work with a 1410 shaft but frankly 1410 is way to big for a Toyota case, if you need 1410 you also need an Atlas. 1350 makes sense for a lot of guys though. Here's some information about the comparative sizes of Toyota vs Spicer u-joints What Is The Difference Between Toyota and Spicer Universal Joints?.
 
Tom Wood's said:
I know this thread is a couple months old but here's some info. We have a 1350 compatible flange for the 27 spline toyota transfer case. We have them for Toyota diffs too. Here's the one for the transfer case Toyota Transfer Case Flange, 1310/1350 Series, Rear.

That flange actually could also work with a 1410 shaft but frankly 1410 is way to big for a Toyota case, if you need 1410 you also need an Atlas. 1350 makes sense for a lot of guys though. Here's some information about the comparative sizes of Toyota vs Spicer u-joints What Is The Difference Between Toyota and Spicer Universal Joints?.
Click to expand...
Probably still won't end the 'debate' but thank you for supplying the information. :beer: I read the link and I now hope you will be selected to disperse information on COVID-19 from the CDC as your response and the link to the page on your website is more informative and free of conjecture than the last 20 months of information flowing from the CDC. :lmao: but completely serious at the same time.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Probably still won't end the 'debate' but thank you for supplying the information. :beer: I read the link and I now hope you will be selected to disperse information on COVID-19 from the CDC as your response and the link to the page on your website is more informative and free of conjecture than the last 20 months of information flowing from the CDC. :lmao: but completely serious at the same time.
Click to expand...
lol
we actually did get a drive shaft made though. i used a toyota flange at one end and 1410 at the other. round even, and now i can go at speed between trails.
IMG_4352.JPG
IMG_4352.JPG
 
Were did you get the new shaft from? I am running a toy u-joint at the transfer case and 1350 at the axle but need a more road friendly shaft as mine is not true and balanced and vibrates at road speeds.
 
so we made this shaft. my buddy has a lathe and we turned down all the parts to make them a nice snug fit. is it is the toyota end we had to put a piece of tube inside another tube to get to work. we did not balance it and we could have spent more time on getting it right and there is a vibration at 35-40, but not sure if that is caused by my long front square shaft. i also think it is 3/16 wall or 1/4 tube i cant remember.
 
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