Big4x4ride
Red Skull Member
Let's talk tie rod ends. A buddy and I both have similar JKU builds on 1 tons, we both utilize offset TRE's in the stock TRE knuckle hole on a 99-04 SD60 housing. Offsets were used to keep the tie rod off the diff cover as the real estate is tight there. My rig has 3000ish street miles on it, and 14ish wheeling days on it. His has 500ish street miles and the same wheeling time. Last wheeling trip we both snapped off a driverside TRE where the shank meets the body. 2 different scenarios, but both the same failure. That has led me down the rat hole of looking for a different option. We all know the offset TRE quality is shit to say the least, so that's part of the problem. We could go to a normal TRE, like the ES201R/20102, ES2234R, etc., however that is still a 7/8" shank. Looked at a few other options with Super duty stuff but the shank required too large of a tie rod (1 3/8" shank), or it wasn't cost effective to get tube adapters or threading done (1.0"-16LH thread). That led me to find the ES2062R TRE. This is actually an 85-99 Chevy/GM P30/3500 TRE. Looks to be the same taper at 1.5" per ft, it just uses a larger diameter 3/4" nut, .783 - .905 on the taper diamaters vs the 5/8" nut, .675 - .776 of the normal "1 ton" stuff. These are 1"-16 RH thread only, vs the 7/8"-18 RH/LH options as well. Anyone utilized these particular TRE's by chance? I can tell you physically they look much beefier, and much stronger appearing than the normal 7/8" stuff that everyone runs.
The shank are ties into the body much better on these ES2062R versus the normal "1 ton" ES2010R/L pictured below.
Side by side comparison, the picture doesn't do it justice, as they ES2062R is significantly larger. Seems like this would be a significant upgrade, over the 7/8" stuff, not much added cost, and all parts are readily available. Only real downside is that both sides are RH, but we generally set the toe once and forget about it unless you are compensating for a bent tie rod later now.
On another good note, jam nuts and tube adapters are available off the shelf for there, or you can also buy 1.5" .281" wall DOM tubing. This leaves .938" ID, and a 1"-16 tap requires a 15/16" or .9375" hole. You should be able to tap these yourself theoretically. Obviously not near as good as single pointing it, but definitely doable.
The shank are ties into the body much better on these ES2062R versus the normal "1 ton" ES2010R/L pictured below.
Side by side comparison, the picture doesn't do it justice, as they ES2062R is significantly larger. Seems like this would be a significant upgrade, over the 7/8" stuff, not much added cost, and all parts are readily available. Only real downside is that both sides are RH, but we generally set the toe once and forget about it unless you are compensating for a bent tie rod later now.
On another good note, jam nuts and tube adapters are available off the shelf for there, or you can also buy 1.5" .281" wall DOM tubing. This leaves .938" ID, and a 1"-16 tap requires a 15/16" or .9375" hole. You should be able to tap these yourself theoretically. Obviously not near as good as single pointing it, but definitely doable.
