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1 ton 97 4Runner build

5" up is probably fine. Read up on the butt warmers, the stock ones in my Tahoe have burned the foam and shorted out, having a good fuse/regulator is probably worth it.
For sure I’ll throw a fuse in there, I could probably snag a junk yard seat heater switch that has the 3 heat settings, or wire my own switch to regulate the heat settings. Not sure yet it’s low on my priority list lol
Interrested in seeing this. Bought a '95 project with 63's in the rear. Plan on pushing the axle back like you did, cause on 40's, there is no way it will clear the doors.
Yup that’s why I wanted to stretch it to keep it out of the door. I can cut the back side of the fender but not the front side bc of the door. But tbh I actually chose that distance bc with the 1 tons being that much bigger that they allowed me to run the factory drive shaft with no modifications.
 
tbh I started looking online I’ll probably just buy a universal seat heater kit. It comes with everything I’d need for like 30-40 bucks, relays, fuses, high low switch and the wiring harness. Ez Pz
 
tbh I started looking online I’ll probably just buy a universal seat heater kit. It comes with everything I’d need for like 30-40 bucks, relays, fuses, high low switch and the wiring harness. Ez Pz
You should change the name of the thread to seat heater tech :flipoff2:

It’s coming along nicely, how far into the rear do you need to cut including for shock towers? Will you need to retub the rear or will it be all exterior
 
You should change the name of the thread to seat heater tech :flipoff2:

It’s coming along nicely, how far into the rear do you need to cut including for shock towers? Will you need to retub the rear or will it be all exterior
hahaha I know right out of all the shit on this build that sparked interest seat heaters were the most 😆.

I’ll post a picture when I get them tacked up this week I got them about ready, plated the frame for the tower and bump cans. It’s all exterior I didn’t want to cut the tub wanted to stay below. Which I had plenty of room with the 14s to mount them outboard of the frame in the wheel well with side mounted axle mounts
 
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Whipped up some frame plates just because, shocks mocked up, still don’t have bump cans yet but they’ll go beside the tower when I get them. Need to cycle the suspension to make sure everything clears before burning them in
 
hahaha I know right out of all the shit on this build that sparked interest seat heaters were the most 😆.

I’ll post a picture when I get them tacked up this week I got them about ready, plated the frame for the tower and bump cans. It’s all exterior I didn’t want to cut the tub wanted to stay below. Which I had plenty of room with the 14s to mount them outboard of the frame in the wheel well with side mounted axle mounts
Interested because I have rear heat in my 4runner so if I can up my luxury game on the cheap I'm all for it :lmao:.

Progress is looking good btw. I went with WFO for my Dana 44 swap in my 3rd gen, I really like their crossmember. I'll be doing a 4 link in the rear though when I finally buy the shocks, mounts and tube already in the garage. Did you consider links or were the springs just much more cost effective for your purpose?
 
Interested because I have rear heat in my 4runner so if I can up my luxury game on the cheap I'm all for it :lmao:.

Progress is looking good btw. I went with WFO for my Dana 44 swap in my 3rd gen, I really like their crossmember. I'll be doing a 4 link in the rear though when I finally buy the shocks, mounts and tube already in the garage. Did you consider links or were the springs just much more cost effective for your purpose?
Haha touché everyone loves tushy warmers makes our shit boxes seem luxurious.

I agree their crossmember is super nice, tbh all of their products are top notch. But for me yeah it fit the budget better plus I wanted to keep the stock gas tank. I have all intentions to street drive this truck a lot to the trails etc, so radius arms and 63s will drive on the street super well but still be capable Offroad.
 
Been slowing going but apparently the last step of brake lines has taken forever. Granted I haven’t had a lot of time to mess with it. I was going to use -3 AN soft lines but after I got them plumbed I just didn’t like how the fitment was at the caliper.

So I went on the hunt for a DOT brake hose since I work in a shop I just started looking for different options. After a few tries found that 08+ f250 hoses from rough country 4-8” lift was perfect. 32” long and has a hard line at the caliper side to keep it clear of everything while it’s turning.

The rear I used 4-6” lift Jeep xj hose also from rough country at 24” long. Way beefier hoses than the -3 AN lines. Granted fyi I did plumb all new hard lines to bypass abs and I used all standard fittings 3/8s 24 except at the master. Makes it convenient since all domestic stuff is mostly 3/8s 24.

So all in I spent 120 bucks on dot stainless brake hoses off Amazon.

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Passenger seat welded and painted. Just cut the feet off both sets of seats and used the feet from the 4Runner to weld to the frs frames. Ended up having to add some plate to the brackets as the FRS frames are 1” narrower. The sliders were pretty long too so I cut about 1.5 off each end to make it flush with the brackets.
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Please take a bunch of pics of the driver’s side mods… these look like they might be worth grabbing for the Tacoma.
 
Please take a bunch of pics of the driver’s side mods… these look like they might be worth grabbing for the Tacoma.
For sure I’ll take some today, I didn’t take much of the passenger side. If you can find a deal on a set on marketplace or a junkyard it’s worth it. I
Paid 125 off FB for the set, they hold you in the seat really well and I personally think they are pretty comfortable, they aren’t a luxury seat by any means it’s definitely a racing style seat.


Overall I don’t have a lot of time in making them fit either maybe 2.5 hours to get the passenger seat fully painted and mounted. I think the drivers will be even faster since I know what to do.

But frs, brz, wrx, civic si or Miata seats. Honestly any of those are pretty solid and I see them all the time on marketplace.
 
Well pretty much done brakes are bled, fluids in its running. Needed an alternator it was raising hell so figured might as well do the cs144 swap to go from 70 amps to 140. Went ahead and did the big 3 to upgrade to power and grounds. Overall pretty straight forward almost direct bolt on just added a few washers on the top mount. Waiting on the conversion pigtail to come in tomorrow to go from gm to Toyota.
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Well it’s running a driving had to work out some kinks with death wobble turned out to be the tires so put balance beads and rotated them. Also added more caster ended at 8 degrees caster. Drives really good so far 1 hand down the road comfortably. Haven’t been on the interstate yet but been up to 60 and pretty stable and smooth with minimum bump steer, when it did happen over big bumps it straightened back out.
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Sweet, you gonna be at the ranch to shake this thing down in April?
Unfortunately I won’t make it to the ranch

Those 40’s look insanely huge lol

Glad to hear it’s up and running!

Yeah they do and the 3.4 feels it with tons and 40s. Highways are pretty much 60 max it struggles. I mean around town it’s great seems normal but interstates it’s slow as molasses and if there is a big hill forget about it lol. I’m already looking at v8 swaps lol
 
Yeah they do and the 3.4 feels it with tons and 40s. Highways are pretty much 60 max it struggles. I mean around town it’s great seems normal but interstates it’s slow as molasses and if there is a big hill forget about it lol. I’m already looking at v8 swaps lol
Yeah I’m sure the auto trans isn’t doing you any favors there either, but I think it can mate up to an older UZ block!
 
Have you seen the new 1320 supercharger from Magnusson? You can get UZ power with all bolt-on parts. I think this is the route I’ll go in the future when my stock 5VZ starts feeling too sluggish with tons and 40s.
 
Have you seen the new 1320 supercharger from Magnusson? You can get UZ power with all bolt-on parts. I think this is the route I’ll go in the future when my stock 5VZ starts feeling too sluggish with tons and 40s.
I mean yeah it’s nice but 5k for what like 60 hp? And “when” it feels sluggish shit mine is strong and still needs more. I mean yea around town it feels relatively stock outside of longer shifts but you can forget about interstate driving. Just can’t even keep up with traffic on the interstate it reminds me of driving a 22re lol
 
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