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eBay I believe. The jig isnt thick enough to keep the bushing retained. So I dimple the steel remove the busing while keeping everything clamped down. Just used a piece of all thread through the drill press table.
Is that why you turned down the tubes on the 14B coming here?
Yes sir. Makes the job go a whole lot easier when the tubes are turned for the Cs. Those ultimate Cs i sent will heat up just as easy as they have less mass then the factory Cs.
the first time around, I didnt even take the mill scale off. So i did that for the second try. The new tube must be a few thou larger.
The center section on my 06 has roughly half of the length that's pressed in turned down about 50 thou, the other half was tube size, minus the interference fit. The C end of the tube was tube size, no machining as far as I can tell. When i cut the long side down, the C shrunk right on with no issues. When i machined the new tube for the long side, i heater the center section to around 500 and the tube dropped in. It did set fast, making me think maybe the factory tube does have a few thou skimmed off the entire length. I was so concerned with measuring the inner bore of the center, i failed to measure anything else, i also didnt have much time.
2024 or 25 is being reported as different, I believe. Up to at least 23 is the same minus knuckle and brake changes
Nope, H3 axle is staying the same. If I ever changed it up I’d imagine I’d do fab axles.
Thanks, I have seen different axle ratings over the years. In the 250/350 I figured it’s spring related. F550 I have seen as little as 6k and as much as 7500. I wasn’t sure if tube wall thickness or knuckles and crap changed. I’m not sold on the M235 metric crap yet.
That’s what I get for talking out my ass
The factory ones are junk. I break them with 285/70/17’s (wrapped in tire chains) on a stock work truck. I’ve broken so many I can’t even count so it’s not just one.
Good to know...I was thinking I'd get away with the Ford ones.
I’m running Warn Premiums and RCV hub gears in my 05+ because I put around 1,000 street miles a year on my crawler and I got tired of pulling my drive slugs and gave this a shot. I’m also using Branik legacy shafts and joints which I was recommended not spin at the higher speeds on the road, those Warn hubs have taken a beating with a sporty 6.0 and 42” sticky tires!
Mine'll be on a heavy 5.9L diesel....so I'm expecting to break them.
So RCV makes upgraded internals for the Warns? This is what I see on RCV's site:
Never seen any Milemarker hubs worth a damn , so I would say yes for sure. I know on my buddies 99-04 axle he has broken 4 already in 4 trips this year. I run same axle, and same build basically but with yukon hubs with no issues. Yukon > Warn >Milemarker = Ford IMO, but the yukon hub part wont apply to 05 up obviosuly.
You got pics of any breakage? I’ve had to replace a couple of mine because they got stuck (in or out) , but not really broke anything until I tour it apart.
Yeah, wish Yukon was making their "hardcore" hub for the 05+.
I don’t have pics at the moment but next time I’ll snap some. There is a plastic cage that guides the double splined metal part. When I break them, that whole inner plastic thing is crunched into bits and very hard to get apart. When that stupid plastic cage breaks it stops being able to be engaged. This pic, it’s the whole black think with the 8 guides.
So it kind of sounds like what is happening to me. The hub won’t lock or unlock and when you take it apart, it breaks. Have you had it be locked and something broke and it won’t drive? That hasn’t happened to me. But you are a more serious wheeler than I. (I believe)I don’t have pics at the moment but next time I’ll snap some. There is a plastic cage that guides the double splined metal part. When I break them, that whole inner plastic thing is crunched into bits and very hard to get apart. When that stupid plastic cage breaks it stops being able to be engaged. This pic, it’s the whole black think with the 8 guides.
I found no way to use the RCV hub gears with oem hubs…you cut that plastic cage and the whole thing falls apart. I had to slightly modify the hub gear snap ring grove to work with Warn stuff but it was only widening it by like .010.So RCV makes upgraded internals for the Warns? This is what I see on RCV's site:
RCV Dana 60 300m Hub Gear for Ford Super Duty Manual Locking Hub
RCV Hub Gears for Ford Super Duty replace the OEM gear with our 300M design for much additional strength. California ResidentsWARNING: Cancer and/or other Reproductive Harm.www.p65warnings.ca.govwww.rcvperformance.com
...but it says it's for OEM hubs. Are the Warns the same design I gues??
My hubs on that work truck live locked in. I need 4wd every single day I go to work so there’s no point in unlocking them. I know immediately when one is broken because the front end stops working. It rained today, I needed the front axle to pull this very day.
They work with the Ford oem units it’s a little bit of a bitch but I’m running them.
Hmmm...just talked to Paul at ECGS today. He didn't mention anything about it. Guess I should quiz him tomorrow.
Wow...this is ballooning into quite the expensive hub if you gotta buy $388 Warns coupled with $340 RCVs to go in them.
Not your typical desert but a desert none the less. I think we have enough annual rain fall to have a green place to live. But the soil composition is such barren trash nothing but weeds and sagebrush can flourish in it. There is no fixing our soil into a nice farmland without literally just dumping real rich topsoil on top of our natural dirt. I go up and down thousands of feet in elevation change every day and it looks the same on top of the mountain or down in the valley except where people have paid mega bucks to bring in good black dirt.
