Second Floor Patio Build

Finally getting around to it this year. Didn't have enough time last year to start.

Leaving Friday to pick up a 100x20 foot piece of 60 mil EPDM. Just figured out that the "60" means 60 thou.
 
So, just doing the final changes to plans. I’ve got the Epdm in my hands finally.

Biggest question I have is should I do PT joists and plywood and deal with all the corrosion issues and add something to protect the Epdm from the wood.

I was going to do regular wood, but those rafters on my carport shed that are rotting are making me want the PT. Cost isn’t much more. Will use 304 stainless screws and joist tape to separate the beams from the wood.

Not sure one way or other if the pt wood hurts the rubber.

IMG_4907.png
 
So, just doing the final changes to plans. I’ve got the Epdm in my hands finally.

Biggest question I have is should I do PT joists and plywood and deal with all the corrosion issues and add something to protect the Epdm from the wood.

I was going to do regular wood, but those rafters on my carport shed that are rotting are making me want the PT. Cost isn’t much more. Will use 304 stainless screws and joist tape to separate the beams from the wood.

Not sure one way or other if the pt wood hurts the rubber.

IMG_4907.png
Pt and don't look back
 
Pt and don't look back
Agree, I’m just trying to work out the mitigations.

Ceramic coated deck screws only live 10-15 years in treated wood (probably better if no humidity…).

304 SS deck screws.

Butyl joist tape to keep the wood off the steel beams.

What’s the right stuff to separate the pt plywood from the EPDM?
 
Y no steel joists?

My original plan was that (all welded steel HSS) and embossed concrete decking with a slab poured on top, but it’s too stressful to try and find concrete guy I could trust, and what do I do when it leaks?

Wood seemed more normal to go with “inverted roof”

Also easier I think to get engineered and approved anns inspected. Also my structural out of position stick welding probably isn’t phenomenal. (We’ll see soon enough…)
 
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Agree, I’m just trying to work out the mitigations.

Ceramic coated deck screws only live 10-15 years in treated wood (probably better if no humidity…).

304 SS deck screws.

Butyl joist tape to keep the wood off the steel beams.

What’s the right stuff to separate the pt plywood from the EPDM?
We place 1/2" recovery board on top of pt plywood then glue down epdm.
 
So, researching everything to death as usual…

I think this is how it’s done?

IMG_4930.jpeg
That will work. You want the rubber isolated from stuff that will wear a hole through it. You can also check with Carlisle, or Firestone. They will give you all the technical details for this project. Im not home, and won't be till Monday but I think I still have all my Carlisle books at home.
 
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