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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
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Load bearing or not?
- Thread starter fordguy
- Start date
Those rafters look suspiciously like floor joists.Thought u would like to see how to correctly frame a structual ridge. Room is 30x22 and beam is 3 ply 18x1.75. Posts r 5.5x5.5. Rafters r 14" mainly for insulation depth. Shoild be done the roof today.
They r standard i-joist (can be used for floors, cailings or rafters) and the cheapest way to make room for 14" of batt insulation r49. It wil get hangers at the beam and hurrican clips at the wall.
A 2x6 actually qualifies dor the span but it would have required $8k worth of spray foam for it to work.
A 2x6 actually qualifies dor the span but it would have required $8k worth of spray foam for it to work.
fordguy
blah.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2022
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- 629
- Thread starter
- #214
Thought u would like to see how to correctly frame a structual ridge. Room is 30x22 and beam is 3 ply 18x1.75. Posts r 5.5x5.5. Rafters r 14" mainly for insulation depth. Shoild be done the roof today.
That beam with 64 on it, whats the deal with it being so massive for the short span ? It will be like a vaulted sealing right, since this is what you call a gable roof? Really not a fan of hip and ridge, seems like a lot of wasted space either way you look at it.
very cool tho, I am taking notes. If business ever gets better, would like to expand ours, so this is cool to see.
Man if not for permits and city inspectors, Id have the middle of my outer wall ripped apart and a post put in by now.
Thata just a simple header, 64" long, its the framers notes. Yes its a non bearing gable wall but my framers build strucrual headers for all the openings and we build them all the same size, 3- 2x10s on this build. It keeps window heights correct accross different walls. We have to build with 2x6 walls hence the triple header walls and the 5' opening only really needs a 2-2x8s and probably even less on the gable.
I wouldn’t.
1. ****load of work for minimal gain
2. Exposes doors and windows to rain which will accelerate deterioration
3. More direct sunlight on walls/windows
4. Nice to have an overhang to stand under when going in/out when it’s raining
I’d honestly give up square footage to have more eave coverage at my house
1. ****load of work for minimal gain
2. Exposes doors and windows to rain which will accelerate deterioration
3. More direct sunlight on walls/windows
4. Nice to have an overhang to stand under when going in/out when it’s raining
I’d honestly give up square footage to have more eave coverage at my house
One of my requirements if we ever build my imaginary shop house is 6-8ft eaves all the way around.
What you want to do is alot of money and alot of work for maybe an extra 100ft2? Is the reason you're considering this some kind of weird Cali thing where the permits are way cheaper/ easier vs. just adding on more ft2?
What you want to do is alot of money and alot of work for maybe an extra 100ft2? Is the reason you're considering this some kind of weird Cali thing where the permits are way cheaper/ easier vs. just adding on more ft2?
jeeptj19992001
land of corruption and control of the people
Instead of pushing wall out. Cut off overhang.
![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
smell-o-vision
yup
my house project is being built inside the existing walls
in a few places it was raining inside the house because zero overhang means that as soon as the edge of the shingles was ****ed up the water was running down the inside of the wall instead of out the soffits
arse_sidewards
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Messages
- 10,758
That's ******ed. Never reduce impermeable footprint. Ever.
Why? You're not gaining any ft2, and you're losing a little bit of sunblocker/ weather defense.
jeeptj19992001
land of corruption and control of the people
Cuse he wants to do silly stuff.Why? You're not gaining any ft2, and you're losing a little bit of sunblocker/ weather defense.
Besides.
If he pushed the wall out he would need to put in a foundations and extend floor joist. Drywall wire paint etc.
Cutting off the eve, he just needs a chain saw and a stright line.
NORDFORD
RBS
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- May 20, 2020
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- 160
Sounds easy until you get into it. Is the concrete thick enough to support the load bearing wall? There’s a footer under the existing walls and floor concrete. You’d also have to restructure your whole roof. The existing joists and rafters aren’t long enough without reducing wall height.
fordguy
blah.
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- Nov 24, 2022
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- 629
- Thread starter
- #229
I would slap that **** together in a weekend 😂
there is no weight above the wall, I am sure the concrete would hold. Roof would stay the same, ceiling joists would remain and I would just drywall under the rafters. Lower roof height at the edges if the rooms would, floor space is king.
Tons of **** thats still standing was slapped together ages ago without permits engineering and what not. Kind of like people talking about booger wells, yet somehow most trailers have **** wekds and dont fall apart.
The water leaks tho is an issue, I dont want to introruce that
The outside walls carry 1/2 of the roof load up to the peak (30-50 lbs/sq-ft) plus a dead load of 10-20 lbs/foot for the walls. I am sure there is a load ln it. Do they not pour foundations where u live. I can remember your location?
jeeptj19992001
land of corruption and control of the people
He is in California.... nothing is real.
All is supported unicorn farts and rainbows 🌈
