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Build KMH Motorsport 4800 build

Oil to water heat exchanger. Inline from radiator outlet (cool side) back to engine. Same theory as having a cooler inside a radiator just a lot bigger and more efficient.

I've been running one since 2015 on a 6L80. 3200 rpm converter. Never see over 200°, most of the time its 190°.

This is the unit I run. Its tucked in between my rear firewall and fuel cell.

CBR 12 Plate Stainless Oil Cooler Heat Exchanger 1-3/4" Radiator In/Out AN -10 ORB Oil Cooler In/Out - Kartek Off-Road CBR 12 Plate Stainless Oil Cooler Heat Exchanger 1-3/4" Radiator In/Out AN -10 ORB Oil Cooler In/Out - Kartek Off-Road
 

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I have heard that the Miller cars run these. Its something I will consider for sure. I have the cooler for thr transmission already. What sized rad and engine are you running?
 
Erik is the one who turned us onto them. He runs the Ron Davis unit which is similar.

I run a 31x19 cbr dual pass up high behind the seats. Heads and cam 6.2 stock bottom end. About 550 hp. As long as there's water circulating I don't have temp issues.

If I were building a new car and planning on a forged stroker I'd go to a 35x19.
 

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cdemart2 said:
Erik is the one who turned us onto them. He runs the Ron Davis unit which is similar.

I run a 31x19 cbr dual pass up high behind the seats. Heads and cam 6.2 stock bottom end. About 550 hp. As long as there's water circulating I don't have temp issues.

If I were building a new car and planning on a forged stroker I'd go to a 35x19.
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Im intriqued. I like the fact that its easier to package too.
 
They are great. Virtually zero maintenance. No fins to clog with mud, no fan so they can be buried in the chasis and not need fresh airflow. I'm sold on them.
 
rear suspension in in and we have a roller. With 14s we ended up with 14.5in total travel in the front and 26in in the rear (without limit straps).
 
Outer seat mounts are tacked in to locate the seats.

Better picture of how we mounted the rear shocks.

Dash is also tacked in. With the seats in im now deliberating how to mount the digital dash and steering. Anyone run a dash in the center of one of these cars as opposed to in front of the driver?
 
Sorry for the lack of updates. Have gotten a lot of work done on the car. First, the recessed footwells to buy us some much-needed leg room in this thing. Also seen in those photos is the brake and gas pedal mount.
 
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Quick flex test on the rear suspension to check sway bar clearances. Unfortunately where we put the shock mounts interferes with the tube in the chassis where the sway bar is supposed to go. Instead we decided to add a tube to mount the bar behind the rear axle.
 

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Inner seat mounted with bolts on the back and a removable crossmember, so we can pull the whole bracket out and have access to the t case and transmission for service or to pull it (skid plate will we welded to the bottom tubes)
 
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Transfer case mount unfortunately had to go to the bottom tubes as there was no space to package it above. Used the AA adapter and the bushing mount from BKOR to mount it to the bottom.
 
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Custom headers to clear the chassis, and we were just barely able to tuck them under the footwells to retain legroom.
 

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Got an Instagram and Facebook page up where I plan to post more on the details of this build as well as race and trail footage after it is finished. can be found under the name "KMH_Motorsports" for instagram and "KMH Motorsports" for Facebook
 
If the skid is gonna be welded to the bottom tubes, have you tried taking the t-case and trans out the top yet? Looks kinda like the transmission might be trapped with the tail housing mount.
 
abrogate said:
If the skid is gonna be welded to the bottom tubes, have you tried taking the t-case and trans out the top yet? Looks kinda like the transmission might be trapped with the tail housing mount.
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The crossmember seen in the photo of the seats is removeable so the whole top of the “cab” is open. The tube on the tail housing mount is also removeable, so it has space to slide back. I’ll get more photos when we pull it all apart for paint next week.
 
Yellow_99TJ said:
The crossmember seen in the photo of the seats is removeable so the whole top of the “cab” is open. The tube on the tail housing mount is also removeable, so it has space to slide back. I’ll get more photos when we pull it all apart for paint next week.
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Do the blue tube straight across and connect it to the front cross member with a tube along each side of the trans pan to the front cross member leaving room to get the pan down. Slug the tubes with solid aluminum and put internal tube connectors so the center tubes drop out in one piece. Taking out the transfer case from the top is one thing. Getting the trans out the top sucks. Make that come out the bottom.
 
We can see that it’s wide open from above, but give it a dry run removal with the skid tacked in place and before burning in all the t-case and trans mounts. I didn’t initially see what mobil1syn pointed out. Looks like a headache just to remove the trans pan. If skid is welded in place are you going to have some type of access for service?
 
Also, I would do away with that atlas mount. With it setup that way you are asking for a cracked atlas or trans housing. Especially if neither of those tubes have aluminum in them.
 
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