Dust Buggy

The others are for the seal if you want to run one which I don’t think I will.
Just curious why not? Especially with the name dust in the ***le :laughing:

Bitchen work! Kudos taking the dive on something new.

Did I miss the diameter of the bolts that will hold the knuckle on to the C?
 
Kit form, sell the dxf! I'd buy one
So, what are you going to start selling them for? :flipoff2:
I definitely don't have the time to be welding up outers for others. I need all the time I can get for my own buggy and trips.

These were always meant to be kit form for garage fabricators with no machines. I cheated and used the lathe to bore the hub ID only to drum sand them for a perfect fit. So I would definitely say these are garage built after the laser.

There are some dimension tweeks and self jigging that need to be added before releasing the files for whoever ends up building them. Once I wheel these I will finish the design.
 
Just curious why not? Especially with the name dust in the ***le :laughing:

Bitchen work! Kudos taking the dive on something new.

Did I miss the diameter of the bolts that will hold the knuckle on to the C?
After seeing how rusty and muddy some of the stock hubs are with the seals, I am leaning towards no seals so the water does not get sucked in from temp change and held in by the seal. With no seals, everything can dry. The unit bearings can always be greased to purge out any air and water. The stub can also be grease packed into the unit bearing to eliminate air gap for water to get in.

The pivot bolts are 5/8"
The pivot bushings are 5/8" ID x 1" OD x 1.75" long
Same ID and OD as my old buggy
It would take over 30K LB to double shear one of the 5/8" bolts
 
I definitely don't have the time to be welding up outers for others. I need all the time I can get for my own buggy and trips.

These were always meant to be kit form for garage fabricators with no machines. I cheated and used the lathe to bore the hub ID only to drum sand them for a perfect fit. So I would definitely say these are garage built after the laser.

There are some dimension tweeks and self jigging that need to be added before releasing the files for whoever ends up building them. Once I wheel these I will finish the design.
Is this where you use one of the 3d printed open source licenses to help prevent poaching the design for profit?
 
Wheel check with super high steer.
Wheels are 17” x 8.5” x 4.5” backspacing
The high steer spacers are aluminum so while it looks like a lot, they don’t weight much.
Total outer weight minus, hub, rotor, caliper is 70LB

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Damn this is amazing. The thought and consideration that went into these is over the top. Looks great for serviceability. Wrench can reach all the fasteners etc. In this final product, can you still pass an axle assembly through as intended?
 
You actually gonna run it up there or is it a "just making sure I have clearance in case I want to in the future" type thing?
 
The big bell axle assembly will pass through the knuckle.
RCV made the big bell just smaller than the unit bearing.
The stock knuckle has a lip that needs to be removed for the big bells to clear. These knuckles don't have that lip.
The big bell boot will not pass so you have to hold the boot in place while you feed the assembly through.

The super high steer is in line with my existing truss and cylinder. At that height the cylinder and drag links are out of the way of the rocks and over the top of the pumpkin rather that in front of it.
What you see is what I am going to run.
The knuckle is designed to run the rod end under or over so low mounted cylinders will also line up. A lower tab would need to be welded in instead of the upper plate bolted in with spacers.
With different top plates, Akerman can be built in as well as longer arm lengths for 10" cylinders.
The current configuration sets the minimum clearance. The other configurations gain clearance.
 
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