What did you do to your GM today?

It was together when I got it but it had a TH400 and NP205. We called the truck Krusty
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NPKennny said:
Yeah, I would be happy with a mechanical Isuzu. Tough to find those lately as well. They are getting old. I had 2 sourced for $750 each a few years back, just wrong timing.

What transmission did you use with the Isuzu you had?
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Meant to quote you in the reply^

I just figured it's another one to keep an eye out for and it doesn't come with the "Cummins Bro" tax on the price lol.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Meant to quote you in the reply^

I just figured it's another one to keep an eye out for and it doesn't come with the "Cummins Bro" tax on the price lol.
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I looked on Offer-up after you posted yesterday. Found an ‘89 npr with a bad transmission. $1,000 for a 4bd1t, I pull it. Going to see what damage I can do on Friday. I will need to get creative about lifting the motor with a cherry picker on a cab over with the bed in place.
 
I never see the isuzu motors around here. I can find 4bt's quite often.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You know you can tilt the cab on those, right? :laughing:
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I don’t have a hoist that can lift that tall bastard high enough to clear the cab brackets coming out the side.

I’ll remove a wheel and probably hack the frame to pull it out the driver’s side. Likely lower the driver’s side rotor to the ground. I think it will still be tight.
 
NPKennny said:
I don’t have a hoist that can lift that tall bastard high enough to clear the cab brackets coming out the side.

I’ll remove a wheel and probably hack the frame to pull it out the driver’s side. Likely lower the driver’s side rotor to the ground. I think it will still be tight.
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Do you know what tranny you’ll be using?
 
Whatever said:
Does Krusty still exist?
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Unfortunately no. I had 3 crew cabs all at once, Krusty was rusted out so bad underneath the cab was sitting on 2x4's with steel pallet strapping holding the cab onto the frame and frame had rust through in spring hangers. I pulled the drivetrain and sold the SRW axles then junked most of the body to put the motor\trans and transfercase in my nearly rust free 4x4 DRW truck we called Bull because it had horns on the roof:lmao:.
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PO screwed me over and the ***le he mailed me didn't match any part of the DRW truck before he blocked me. So it got parted out too and I ended up selling every part I had collected in pretty much a tantrum. I was just done with it. If I would have known about the ***le ting I would have just used the frame from the DRW and body parts to fix Krusty but I had already parted him before the ***le showed up. I screwed myself by trusting the one guy. I had also sold the K5 turned pickup maybe a week before so I went from 3 4x4 crew cabs a 4x4 light gvw 3/4T and the K5 at one time to just the 1 crew cab which I had already swapped a 6.2 diesel (from the rusty 3\4T) and NV3500 into. I ended up dropping it from the 2.5T axles and 425\65R22.5's onto the DRW axles with hummer 37's. Then I bought my 5ton.
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oh and I had been building my mercedes 240D powered samurai at this same time too.
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I just burnt myself out after working on one of them every other day at least for over a year. The plan was for the 4cyl DRW truck to be my tow pig with the nicer AC cab, power windows etc. Big crew cab was going to just be a show truck\toy with fancy paint job planned and samurai was going to be our camping\trail vehicle. I ended up rupturing the lowest disk in my back while walking on crutches after knee surgery, couldn't work, couldn't drive stick and didn't want to lose my house so the crew cab got sold, then the 5ton the following year then the samurai two years after. I also had 4 toyotas right around this time and sold all but my 1st (combined with another one) which I still have but might be selling here soon.
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NPKennny said:
I don’t have a hoist that can lift that tall bastard high enough to clear the cab brackets coming out the side.

I’ll remove a wheel and probably hack the frame to pull it out the driver’s side. Likely lower the driver’s side rotor to the ground. I think it will still be tight.
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I think they can come out from the bottom too. Jack the truck up and crib up the tires, drop the engne and trans out onto an old hood and slide it out from underneath.
 
Whatever said:
Do you know what tranny you’ll be using?
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No. I rebuilt the SM465 to use with the small block. I don’t have a transmission if I end up with a diesel. I’m internet studying how adapt an NV4500 or ZF 5/6.
 
KrustyTJ said:
They don't do surity bond for ***les there ?
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No. The state police will come verify the vin to make sure it isn't stolen and I could try to track guy down to take him to court. The ***le he sent was in someone else's name (signed) and for a 89 chevy but not that one, frame vin also didnt match the cab or ***le. There are some guys that will park the truck at a shop and allow them to get a abandoned vehicle ***le but that also takes months and you have to know someone to do it. Then I would have to pay the ***le fee for their ***le and mine along with tax when I "buy" it off them. This was all going on while I was starting to have knee issues so I didn't have 6 months to wait and had my money spread too thin with all the projects that I planned to do so I just cut my losses, sold the diesel drivetrain to a friend, the nicer interior pieces went into the black crew cab and sold every body part I could to the DRW and after sitting on the frame and cab for 3-4 months where people wouldn't give me $250 for it I scrapped it too. Obviously there are a ton of things I would do differently now and would have then if it wasn't for everything going on at once so I just tried to get what money I could and bought a newer automatic truck to drive but it left too once the surgery was on the horizon.
 
NPKennny said:
No. I rebuilt the SM465 to use with the small block. I don’t have a transmission if I end up with a diesel. I’m internet studying how adapt an NV4500 or ZF 5/6.
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AFAIK, the only adapter currently available is for the nv4500. Outfit out of BC called Roamer drive. Really nice pieces, but that’s all you can run.
 
its pretty easy to drill a nv4500 face to use a 465 bellhousing. unless you just want to spend money.
 
took the 05 Tahoe to go to Harbor freight yesterday. ran like crap, check engine light flashing. was fine the day before.
got in the 07 Duramax, cranks but won't start. ran fine the day before :laughing:

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07 is a P0340
camshaft positioner sensor.
looks like it may be just a broken wire

05 is P0200 and P0308
injector #8
or wire issue

to top it off I left the door open on my 93 Silverado all night and drained the battery :laughing:
 
NPKennny said:
No. I rebuilt the SM465 to use with the small block. I don’t have a transmission if I end up with a diesel. I’m internet studying how adapt an NV4500 or ZF 5/6.
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If you get lucky the 4bd1t will have SAE bellhousing so all you need is the adapter from a common GM MDT. Pity you are so far away as I have an SM465 from MDT that has the larger input and everything. The manual flywheels are the hard part, they came manual from factory but it was really rare to see one in the states.
 
I put down two thin coats of por 15 topcoat earlier in the week kinda liking that stuff pricey but the can is big and seems to last compared to rust oleum.

I installed the fuel tank with new hoses and new pump unfortunately the filler hose was to short go figure dorkman part.

Debating removing the window tint next and having new tint installed going to get with the tint guy first
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Passenger side fuel rail on the Duramax. It was leaking from the back of the rail. I tried changing the O Ring on the pressure relief valve and nothing happened. I tried the race valve and nothing happened. So I went with a whole new rail. MAYBE I could have ordered the feed fitting but I was so done with fuel leaks. I put the race plug in the new rail because it was easier to get to with everything out and might help with a list of upgrades the next guy wants.

I also replaced the turbo coolant supply line and the U shaped fuel return hose. I did the turbo coolant and EGR lines on the other side 2 weeks ago. Each one had a good amount of permatex super 300 (I think) applied to it.

The only other spots I could get a leak now is the coolant bypass hose, or maybe the stupid EGR Coolant to Thermostat housing, or the water pump bypass hose right in front of the engine. I'd almost prefer to pull the radiator out to get to that one just for space.



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number 1 injector o ring, copper washer, and return line O Ring. Eventually I'll have this thing leak free. I should seriously invest in a larger bottle than UV dye.
 
number 1 injector o ring, copper washer, and return line O Ring. Eventually I'll have this thing leak free. I should seriously invest in a larger bottle of UV Dye with how much I've been using. Comes in handy.
 
Started out as "I will remove a couple of leafs." Progressed to fawk those rust pitted things. Now thinking I will leave pinion pointed up towards tcase. Maybe it will be enough to help with d shaft getting hit and wadding up. R C 2" springs- least lift, least leafs I could find . Waiting or some correct length bolts to come in. Gonna move/change shock mounts while here.
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finaly got around to throwing a cheap seat cover on the bottom and stabbing the drivers seat in, plug it in and gtg. well the mech pside seat still has a plug so i should be gtg right?, ****ing wrong, d e d dead.

Poke my head into the smashed tahoe and look at the plugs, sure enough im missing wires. Ok nbd, i had pre-emptively pulled most of its harness.........****ing harness runs from the junction block all the to the back, over the top, and finaly ends at the rear ac on the p-side. So now ive pulled almost every plastic in the damn tahoe.

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If your bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor is stuck at 1.28v with the car running, rpm and temp didn’t effect voltage. Unplugged sensor and scanner still read 1.28v while car was running, next step would be checking for a shorted wire correct? It threw a P0053 Heater resistance code and P0137 Bank 1 sensor 2 circuit low voltage code
 
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