Build 94 Sonoma build

Spent the day finishing off some small projects on the truck that burned some time. Also ordered 1.75x.25 dom for the upper and panhard links.

spiral wrapped the 00 cables from the hood to the cab to avoid damage later on.
Installed the ARB tubing into some wire loom before running line to the ARB
Found one brake connection still leaking but I need to run the brakes to see if any change

Pulled the front driveshaft to try to align the joints better. The driveshaft is to long to put in lathe and I failed bad when I tried to align in truck. I forgot I owned 2 v blocks that could be used to spin driveshaft. Slip joint end has .010in of runout and working on aligning the double cardon end. I did disassemble the double cardon to align to the center ball stem. Ill have some pictures tomorrow of it.

YotaAtieToo said:

Don't usually need 1/4 wall uppers Fwiw.



That give me a good idea. Use the same hiems as your steering for emergency spares, plus you can swap them when the steering ones get loose.

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if the upper and panhard tube were straight then I would have stayed with 1.75x.120 but they have a decent bend. 2 pieces @36in cost $118 shipped from midwest steel supply.

Yea thats the reason why I used the joint.............

Driveshafts are finished off with around .010 runout at each end. Good enough for me.

Designed up a switch housing for the lockers that can be reached when in a 5 point harness. Bought a switch panel off amazon for 15 dollars before replacing the cheap switches with the switches I already tested.


Attached with velcro for testing.


Feels good in this position for activating switches from driver seat.


Model needs to be adjusted. Large hole in back for molex connector and 1/2in shorter

IMO you're going to want those in front of you were you can see them on the fly. Looking back at anything in a pickle sucks.

Briansc33 said:

IMO you're going to want those in front of you were you can see them on the fly. Looking back at anything in a pickle sucks.

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Im unable to reach the dash once i install the prp 5 point harnesses in the truck. Maybe I can add leds to the dash for status lights at a later date or build another electrical rotary joint for the electrical switchs to mount on steering wheel. Full hydro doesn't allow for electrical wires in steering column.

Briansc33 said:

IMO you're going to want those in front of you were you can see them on the fly. Looking back at anything in a pickle sucks.

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I have the positions of my switches memorized, so I don't need to look at them, it's just muscle memory.

I was reading the specs on that Seal installer. It didn't list a Ford 9 in the application. You think it would work?

I have to press mine in soon and this looks to be the ticket.

Boomtacoma01 said:

I was reading the specs on that Seal installer. It didn't list a Ford 9 in the application. You think it would work?

I have to press mine in soon and this looks to be the ticket.

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Not really sure if this fits a 9in seal.

Side 2


Needed a method to flex the truck some to see how the rear shocks look. Trailer deck is ~37in heigh


Rear shocks look good so I can burn them in.



Also the ramps feel heavy as **** so I decided to weigh them while I was at it.


Wasnt just my imagination. 118lbs. Trailer was built in 1982.

Not sure if this weekend could be considered a win but Im going with that. '84 Bronco II wanted to run a easy trail on memorial day to see how the truck work so I took friday off to knock stuff out before the run today.

Test a small test run on the road by my house but was running into a grinding noise coming from the tcase once in awhile that didnt stop with pressure on the shifters. Initially thought the NP205 rear output needed to be torqued but found out otherwise when I removed the cover plate. That was a little shocking to see the front output thrust washer on the magnet that I had relocated during the 205 trimming. Not sure out the **** this ended up here versus on the output shaft. Must have fallen off the shaft during assembly or magic.



I got lucky that the front output could be disassembled without removing the Tcase from the truck. We were able to make it out Cedro trail which compares to a fire road. The front alignment needs to be adjusted after driving down the highway at 45-50 mph. Little sketchy.


Poser picture


Final obstacle on the trail and hardest one.


Well that didnt go well. Bent the **** out of the temp 1.75x.120 on the stair step obstacle. Didnt even make it up before we noticed this but maybe got lucky the rocks were slick due to rain. I was able to unbend the link some by driving forward before slamming on brakes.


Kiss the bump some so we removed it before driving home. Bump is in process of being removed in picture.


Things to fix
1. Upper link. switching to 2x.25in DOM tubing
2. MC cover is broken so it leaks
3. Change out valving in rear shocks. They are stiff.
4. Mount MTX115P GMSR radio instead of leaving it on passenger seat. Need speaker for it also
5. Put a nut on the engine pan cage. I forgot one
6. Brace rear shock hoops
7. Need to install shifter boot to stop hot air from coming into cab.
8. Lizard skin on the cab floor. Tcase is loud since no carpet in cab or shifter boot.
9. Reinstall and loctite nut on doubler lever. it fell off


Overall a good test run. I made it home under my own power so I consider that a huge win.

A couple more pictures:

Duc said:

Well that didnt go well. Bent the **** out of the temp 1.75x.120 on the stair step obstacle. Didnt even make it up before we noticed this but maybe got lucky the rocks were slick due to rain. I was able to unbend the link some by driving forward before slamming on brakes.

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I forgot the mock up link was HREW in addition to being 1.75" OD .120 wall. Definitely didn't pass muster.

Good pay off! Probably feels great to be out wheeling it.

Check your caster. I had what I thought was enough and it was scary as **** to drive on the highway. Darty with no return to center. Shimmed in some more positive and it was night and day difference. Also make sure you don't have dead zero toe. That will do the same thing too.

Skinny said:

Good pay off! Probably feels great to be out wheeling it.

Check your caster. I had what I thought was enough and it was scary as **** to drive on the highway. Darty with no return to center. Shimmed in some more positive and it was night and day difference. Also make sure you don't have dead zero toe. That will do the same thing too.

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Felt a step in the right direction. The truck still has some major projects to be complete such as sliders, tubing in the rear, new bumper in rear and front but it functions.

I have 16 degrees of caster I believe but also full hydro with a non-reactive load orbital. So no return to center while driving.

I built a bumper out of 2x2 stock and said **** it. Gotta get out on the trail. You need that motivation to keep the pace going otherwise you just bog down and feel like it never gets completed. Worth it!

Holy ****, yeah I have no advice on that steering setup. No idea how a full hydro drives or what does it likes. I would buy some plates and measure the toe. Or use the rotors. Seems like unless you have like 1/16 to 1/8 toe in it does really weird **** besides scrubbing the **** out of the tires.