350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Forgive my MS paint skills but wouldn't making them more of a remote mount be easier to package?
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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Build 83’ 304-Yota (Told my Chica it’s for her)
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That's how the real triple shifters are.
I'll be curious how you like them, I always felt they would be in the way of the trans shifter
I'll be curious how you like them, I always felt they would be in the way of the trans shifter
Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #153
100%, I have the RAD Designs triple shifters on order, which is how you described, but it sound like I may have to wait another month, and I’m out of time lol.Forgive my MS paint skills but wouldn't making them more of a remote mount be easier to package?
If this clears the tub, it should work for now.
They came out pretty even.
Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #155
I got the transmission back in, and the relocation plates welded up, and everything fits really well. If the truck didn’t have a body lift I’d be cutting the whole floor out.
Originally I was going to recess the plates into the frame, but I don’t think it was necessary.
Relocation plates from Yota1. 5/8” thick beautifully made and fit perfectly.
Lifted everything in one piece into place.
Then squared up the brackets side to side and burned them in hot. There is about 17” of weld per bracket, so the only way they will fail is if the frame fails lol.
I need to cut off that junk looking extra piece that was welded to the skid.
Then I must have had too may claws and I measured to open up the floor and I think I made my mark on the wrong side of the ruler
lots of room for activities now on the back side of the T-Case Shifters
Other than that, I’ve been working on the exhaust, reworking the failed HeliCoils, and dropped the driveshafts off at South Bay Driveline to be reworked.
Originally I was going to recess the plates into the frame, but I don’t think it was necessary.
Relocation plates from Yota1. 5/8” thick beautifully made and fit perfectly.
Lifted everything in one piece into place.
Then squared up the brackets side to side and burned them in hot. There is about 17” of weld per bracket, so the only way they will fail is if the frame fails lol.
I need to cut off that junk looking extra piece that was welded to the skid.
Then I must have had too may claws and I measured to open up the floor and I think I made my mark on the wrong side of the ruler
lots of room for activities now on the back side of the T-Case ShiftersOther than that, I’ve been working on the exhaust, reworking the failed HeliCoils, and dropped the driveshafts off at South Bay Driveline to be reworked.
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Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #156
Nothing to major, just plugging away at little things.
New AC Delco Reman Starter with new factory bolt and stud. Cranks much harder than the AutoZone that was in it. Maybe it will actually start now.
Filled the Transmission and T-Cases with 3qts each MT-90.
Installed the headers.
Mounted the Wheels and Tires. Oddly 3 wheels were one bolt short, not sure what’s going on there. They came with extra nutcerts though.
Installed the extension for the LCE short shifter, red loctite and pinned the set screws. Also installed the Speedometer cable extension for Trail Gear. Cant believe this thing was $66.
New AC Delco Reman Starter with new factory bolt and stud. Cranks much harder than the AutoZone that was in it. Maybe it will actually start now.
Filled the Transmission and T-Cases with 3qts each MT-90.
Installed the headers.
Mounted the Wheels and Tires. Oddly 3 wheels were one bolt short, not sure what’s going on there. They came with extra nutcerts though.
Installed the extension for the LCE short shifter, red loctite and pinned the set screws. Also installed the Speedometer cable extension for Trail Gear. Cant believe this thing was $66.
Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #157
Crunch time for the con, and over the weekend I notice the pinion is loose on the rear diff. Crush sleeve is over crushed and the yoke threads are worn from it wobbling.
So I stole my brother in laws 4cyl diff. Unfortunately, it has been sitting for a little while and got some water in the diff. The bearings seemed to be fine, but there’s a little bit of rust on the top of the ring gear. Gave it a little scrub, washed it with some brake clean and it’ll have to do.
I got the new .188 wall driveshafts in, and they might be a little long. I only have a little over an inch of compression. I’m going to try and flex it some to day.
Also the exhaust is done. 2 1/4” to a Flowmaster 40 Series then into a resonator off an 2013 Challeneger I used to have. Idles quiet. But gets a little raspy when it revs.
So I stole my brother in laws 4cyl diff. Unfortunately, it has been sitting for a little while and got some water in the diff. The bearings seemed to be fine, but there’s a little bit of rust on the top of the ring gear. Gave it a little scrub, washed it with some brake clean and it’ll have to do.
I got the new .188 wall driveshafts in, and they might be a little long. I only have a little over an inch of compression. I’m going to try and flex it some to day.
Also the exhaust is done. 2 1/4” to a Flowmaster 40 Series then into a resonator off an 2013 Challeneger I used to have. Idles quiet. But gets a little raspy when it revs.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Never run crush sleeves on Toyota diffs.
Also, the rear drive shaft may be OK, but no way I'd run that on the front with leafs and factory location shackle, good way to bust you tcase in half.
You don't have a long slip for the front?
Also, the rear drive shaft may be OK, but no way I'd run that on the front with leafs and factory location shackle, good way to bust you tcase in half.
You don't have a long slip for the front?
Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #161
The first time or the second timeI enjoyed watching the drain plug repair...
It was nice meeting you and thank you for letting use the Oil Enzyme stuff, I brake cleaned and wiped the rock the best I could before that. I tried looking it up on Amazon but I couldn't remember what brand it was.
Long story short, I lost the rear axle drain plug near Buck. Got a new one from a nearby camp, gave them some C-'s then torqued it down.
Next day went to the Springs, one of the guys in our group went to check the plug. Literally just touched it and it fell out. He shoved his finger in it and we drained everything into a Zip Lock. We were breaking out our welder when Tyler with MorrFlat brought over his carnage welder. We hammered the plug in and then welded it up with some Fluxcore.
Other than that, it was the only issue I had. I have a bunch of update posts to make still.
Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #162
Little update on my secondary electrical system.
After dabbling in the RV Lithium Battery world, I got to thinking about applying it to my crawlers. I always thought dual starting batteries was dumb, but up until recently Lithium Batteries and components were pretty darn expensive and complicated.
Enter LiTime. I am running one of their 12v 100ah house batteries in my toyhauler and it works perfect. That led me into figuring out how to get one setup in my $hitbox.
I purchased a 100ah LiTime Group 24 with Bluetooth and self heating for charging when it’s below freezing. Battery was $257 on Amazon shipped. The Bluetooth allows for easy battery monitoring without needing a shunt or any extra components. I also purchased their 40amp DC-DC Charger and Solar Controler. This give two automatic switching options to charge the battery, and completely isolates the batteries. It also has a function to reverse charge the starting battery. It was $209. Then I purchased an Auxbeam 4 Switch controller.
Layed out everything on some .060 aluminum and started drilling and cutting.
I wanted it clean and to fit behind the passenger seat.
Big opening allows the charger better cooling, and the slot allows for the wires to enter behind the panel.
Drilled and rivnutted behind the passenger seat to easily mount the panel.
Made up the harnesses. 8ga, to and from batteries using Anderson connectors.
Then mounted everything up. I also added 6 fused circuits, not sure why.
Made a mess in the process.
System worked perfect over a 4 day Rubicon trip, and the LiTime App made it easy to keep track of the battery status.
This trip I only ran the ARB Fridge and Starlink off the Aux battery. Even when the truck sat for 24+ hours the battery barely got below 50%
Here is what the app view shows of the battery status.
After dabbling in the RV Lithium Battery world, I got to thinking about applying it to my crawlers. I always thought dual starting batteries was dumb, but up until recently Lithium Batteries and components were pretty darn expensive and complicated.
Enter LiTime. I am running one of their 12v 100ah house batteries in my toyhauler and it works perfect. That led me into figuring out how to get one setup in my $hitbox.
I purchased a 100ah LiTime Group 24 with Bluetooth and self heating for charging when it’s below freezing. Battery was $257 on Amazon shipped. The Bluetooth allows for easy battery monitoring without needing a shunt or any extra components. I also purchased their 40amp DC-DC Charger and Solar Controler. This give two automatic switching options to charge the battery, and completely isolates the batteries. It also has a function to reverse charge the starting battery. It was $209. Then I purchased an Auxbeam 4 Switch controller.
Layed out everything on some .060 aluminum and started drilling and cutting.
I wanted it clean and to fit behind the passenger seat.
Big opening allows the charger better cooling, and the slot allows for the wires to enter behind the panel.
Drilled and rivnutted behind the passenger seat to easily mount the panel.
Made up the harnesses. 8ga, to and from batteries using Anderson connectors.
Then mounted everything up. I also added 6 fused circuits, not sure why.
Made a mess in the process.
System worked perfect over a 4 day Rubicon trip, and the LiTime App made it easy to keep track of the battery status.
This trip I only ran the ARB Fridge and Starlink off the Aux battery. Even when the truck sat for 24+ hours the battery barely got below 50%
Here is what the app view shows of the battery status.
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Diablo169
ROKRAPR
- Thread starter
- #163
I mounted the battery in a simple battery box rivnutted to the front corner of the bed. I also surrounded the battery with heat shielding.
I purchased an ARB fridge and all the accessories from a 4Wheel Parts Truck Fest like 8 years ago, and it’s been sitting in the garage ever since. With it I got the ARB Slide, Tie downs and insulation kit. Once again I used 5/16” RivNuts to hold the slide to the bed.
To be honest, I probably won’t go back to a cooler after running this fridge. It barely pulls any amps and it keeps everything very cold. Items on the bottom might freeze overnight if you set it too low.
For the Starlink I purchased a Mini and used 1 1/2” Ram Balls to mount it. The Ram Ball $hit is expensive. But it allows fine tuning the angle of the Starlink when parked for awhile. For the wiring it is hooked straight into the Auxbeam and run off 12v. It has the router built in and has a fairly large radius. Some people in our group were able to connect from well over 100’ away.
Future plan is to run the Stereo and Rock Lights off the Auxiliary system, that way I can just let everything run all day and not worry about killing the starter batter.
I purchased an ARB fridge and all the accessories from a 4Wheel Parts Truck Fest like 8 years ago, and it’s been sitting in the garage ever since. With it I got the ARB Slide, Tie downs and insulation kit. Once again I used 5/16” RivNuts to hold the slide to the bed.
To be honest, I probably won’t go back to a cooler after running this fridge. It barely pulls any amps and it keeps everything very cold. Items on the bottom might freeze overnight if you set it too low.
For the Starlink I purchased a Mini and used 1 1/2” Ram Balls to mount it. The Ram Ball $hit is expensive. But it allows fine tuning the angle of the Starlink when parked for awhile. For the wiring it is hooked straight into the Auxbeam and run off 12v. It has the router built in and has a fairly large radius. Some people in our group were able to connect from well over 100’ away.
Future plan is to run the Stereo and Rock Lights off the Auxiliary system, that way I can just let everything run all day and not worry about killing the starter batter.