Official Irate4x4 boat owners thread

Took the cover off the jet boat to let it get some sun yesterday. Poor thing is all dirty after sitting for about two years. Engine fired after about ten seconds of cranking, even with old gas with a lot of Marvel's fuel treatment. Ran rough and wanted to flood. I'll siphon the tanks and dump in some fresh fuel before I try and start it again. Also found out the bilge blower motor isn't working. Have to see whats causing that before it goes in the water.

I'm going to take it out to the Arizona house this year and park it in the garage. It will soon have the indoor storage it deserves. Be a lot easier to pull the interior, replace the carpet, a few floor pieces and the fuel lines while its indoors. Interior doesn't need a full refresh, more of a good cleaning after sitting for so long. I cleaned it with soft scrub upon the advice of someone here, but that was more than two years ago. Needs a going over again.

Old photo of it all cleaned up, waxed and shiny before it got parked.
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They don't make the same color blue carpet it currently has. I can go lighter or darker. I remember frying my feet on the carpet a few times, so will probably go lighter. The lighter color closely matches the lighter blue interior pieces.
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redneckengineered said:
Surprised you guys RTV anything into a fuel tank, I learned the hard way that **** eventually degrades and ends up throughout your fuel system.
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you can use any fuel resistant sealant that you like in whatever degree of removable/semi permanent flavor that you prefer.

It's only relevant on where in the hierarchy of right RTV bits in the filter sits relevant to fuel / fuel vapor in the enclosed bilge compartment underneath your feet with an electric bilge pump on an automatic float switch, and any potential spark sources from other assorted wires/terminations that have been exposed to saltwater/salt air for x amount of years..

I the marine application, you've got the 10 micron prefilter and water separator to mitigate that:
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and then another 3-5 micron filter/separator under the cowling of the outboard
 
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WTF? said:
is there any other screwed on inspection hatch/ alternate sender. pickup location on the other end of the tank?


good point; I thought i read that he replaced the fuel supply line but rereading i only see the threaded fitting referenced...

a pressure test in the line from the water separator could isolate that for troubleshooting.

What is your preferred brand/source ethanol resistant fuel hose?
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I use shields 368
 
Wildjon said:
Replaced the fuel sender gasket yesterday. Did not use RTV though. Screws seemed to be a self tapper into the tank, and did not bubble with soapy water and pressure in the tank, nor did the center post. They are easy enough to pull and coat the threads with RTV though, so I'll do that prior to taking it out again Saturday.

Edit: forgot to address this. To get access to the vent line, I had to cut in an access panel. I left the fiberglass dust on top of the tank just to see if anything got wet, and it was still dry post trip.

When pressurizing, I used the vent hose. The engine feed line seems to have a 1 way checkvalve in it...figured that out the hard way when pre
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Don't use RTV around fuel....it's not good for that. Use Hylomar
 
Went for a good ride today. Took my wife to a restaurant for lunch and met another couple. It was kind of rough on the way there. They wanted to see our property, but didn’t want to go there and back by boat. So my friend went on the boat with me and my wife went in their car with his wife. The wind was against us on the way there, but it was great on the way back. We hauled ass and it was nice and smooth. Probably the best ride I have had in that boat.

I also got the boat lift modified like WTF said. Removed the cross boards and ran the electrical cable under water in plastic conduit. Now I can lift it really high if I want. (I could also get a center console in it if I choose).

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Update to my fuel leak saga...took it out Saturday after changing out everything I could think of. No more leaks!!! Ran 120 miles from Jacksonville to Silver Glen springs and back, had a best top speed of 109.4mph on my 32 pitch props. Had more RPM to go, it was just tapped out. I THINK I need to raise the motors a quarter inch on the jack plate.

Now, are there any Mercury outboard gurus in here? I'm wanting to make the original analog gauges work alongside my Simrad. Tach, water pressure, and coolant temp. I THINK a pair of Mercury 892486K08 AGI kits would do that...but I'm seeing multiple other variations that Merc offers. Is the kit ending in K08 the correct kit?
 
Wildjon said:
Now, are there any Mercury outboard gurus in here? I'm wanting to make the original analog gauges work alongside my Simrad. Tach, water pressure, and coolant temp. I THINK a pair of Mercury 892486K08 AGI kits would do that...but I'm seeing multiple other variations that Merc offers. Is the kit ending in K08 the correct kit?
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I think RSWORDS would likely be able to confirm that..
 
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Wildjon said:
Update to my fuel leak saga...took it out Saturday after changing out everything I could think of. No more leaks!!! Ran 120 miles from Jacksonville to Silver Glen springs and back, had a best top speed of 109.4mph on my 32 pitch props. Had more RPM to go, it was just tapped out. I THINK I need to raise the motors a quarter inch on the jack plate.

Now, are there any Mercury outboard gurus in here? I'm wanting to make the original analog gauges work alongside my Simrad. Tach, water pressure, and coolant temp. I THINK a pair of Mercury 892486K08 AGI kits would do that...but I'm seeing multiple other variations that Merc offers. Is the kit ending in K08 the correct kit?
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That would be cool to run your boat next to a long highway bridge going faster than the traffic and make sure they could see you.
 
Can anyone look up Volvo parts? I'm looking for belt idler and tensioner, cap, rotor, wires and water pump impeller for 2006 5.0 GXI-F. Much appreciated!
 
Last thing on the agenda to replace on the new boat is the impeller. Previous owner told me that he noticed some water in the lower unit oil when he changed it last fall, so he brought it in to a shop and they found the propeller seal damaged by fishing line. He had the receipt to prove this.

I know there's a double lip seal in the water pump base, so while in doing the impeller I pulled the base and found damage to the top seal.

Also changing the shift shaft lip seal while im in here.

Hopefully be able to fire it up next weekend and put it in the water if testing in the driveway goes well.
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WaterH said:
Went for a good ride today. Took my wife to a restaurant for lunch and met another couple. It was kind of rough on the way there. They wanted to see our property, but didn’t want to go there and back by boat. So my friend went on the boat with me and my wife went in their car with his wife. The wind was against us on the way there, but it was great on the way back. We hauled ass and it was nice and smooth. Probably the best ride I have had in that boat.

I also got the boat lift modified like WTF said. Removed the cross boards and ran the electrical cable under water in plastic conduit. Now I can lift it really high if I want. (I could also get a center console in it if I choose).

IMG_3141.jpeg
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I seem to remember a bunch of people saying that when you installed it :laughing:
 
Wildjon said:
Update to my fuel leak saga...took it out Saturday after changing out everything I could think of. No more leaks!!! Ran 120 miles from Jacksonville to Silver Glen springs and back, had a best top speed of 109.4mph on my 32 pitch props. Had more RPM to go, it was just tapped out. I THINK I need to raise the motors a quarter inch on the jack plate.

Now, are there any Mercury outboard gurus in here? I'm wanting to make the original analog gauges work alongside my Simrad. Tach, water pressure, and coolant temp. I THINK a pair of Mercury 892486K08 AGI kits would do that...but I'm seeing multiple other variations that Merc offers. Is the kit ending in K08 the correct kit?
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Yes, personally I would just buy all smartcraft gauges. But the AGI works well.

Also... im jealous of the talon.

I almost had a f20 a few weeks ago but someone else beat me to it.
 
RSWORDS said:
Yes, personally I would just buy all smartcraft gauges. But the AGI works well.

Also... im jealous of the talon.

I almost had a f20 a few weeks ago but someone else beat me to it.
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Thanks,

The boat is a RIOT to drive. Still working on the setup, had it out Saturday, 110mph at 6870rpms...which is about 8% slip on the 5 blade cleaver 32s I have on it at the moment.

I like the Livorsi gauges that came with it, they are in great shape so I would really like to use them. Only issue now is I have no idea how to hook up with two AGI kits. Both ECUs are plugged into a single 6 port junction box. Called Mercury and they refused to give me an answer, the only suggestion I could get is that I may have to split the can network. Any ideas? Photo of the currently existing setup below.
 

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Wildjon said:
Thanks,

The boat is a RIOT to drive. Still working on the setup, had it out Saturday, 110mph at 6870rpms...which is about 8% slip on the 5 blade cleaver 32s I have on it at the moment.

I like the Livorsi gauges that came with it, they are in great shape so I would really like to use them. Only issue now is I have no idea how to hook up with two AGI kits. Both ECUs are plugged into a single 6 port junction box. Called Mercury and they refused to give me an answer, the only suggestion I could get is that I may have to split the can network. Any ideas? Photo of the currently existing setup below.
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You should have a 2nd box with the correct harnesses (possible 3 if you want anything to turn on with either motor) Ill find you some part numbers or a diagram
 
Fired the new boat up yesterday after replacing the following :

Plugs/wires/cap/rotor
Exhaust manifolds and elbows
Gimbal bearing and bellows
Full impeller kit with base
Shift shaft bushing/seal

Didn't instantly hydrolock the engine from a poor seal between elbows and manifolds, which i was terrified of. I put the lower into a stock tank of water instead of running it on muffs, figured that's a better representation of things working the way they should...which they seemed to.

I dropped the drive oil today after work and it had that color indicating a little water was mixed in. This was an issue the previous owner had at the end of last season. He took it to a mechanic and they found the prop seal trashed from fishing line. I have the receipt from the replacement of it and it states they pressure tested the unit and it was good.
My dumbass replaced the drain and vent plug gaskets, overlooking the fact the old ones were stuck on the drive. Im hoping my double gasket let a little water in. There's maybe a chance im seeing residual moisture that was stuck inside the unit.

I pressurized it to 10psi using my cooling system tester and it held steady for 45 minutes, until I had to come in for dinner.
The only seals I can think of that would allow water intrusion are the ones in the water pump base and the shift shaft, both of which I replaced.

Im going to fill it up, put only 1 gasket on the drain and vent plugs, and try it out this weekend.
 
We have a Memorial Day trip planned and it was time to take care of the fouled brakes from a leaking Dexter Vault hub. Step 1: disassemble and order the parts…

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Took it out for the first run yesterday. I was nervous because I didnt get a test drive or even hear it run when I bought it, and then immediately tore it apart to change bellows/gimbal bearing/full impeller base and housing/exhaust manifolds and elbows/trim sender and limit switches/bunch of other litter items. I figured id put it in the water and look it over and then go for a short and easy cruise.

Got ballsy and after it seemed good for 3 minutes I ended up pounding it for a 45 minute one way trip down almost the entire length of Lake Winnebago. The wind wasnt ideal and it was pretty choppy.

I was very pleased with how steady and smooth it took the waves. There wasnt even a single rattle or creak when blasting waves, seems like a pretty tight boat yet.

It seemed to hold 45 mph at 3500 rpm pretty effortlessly. Had it up to 55 with room left on the throttle but I dont want to push an old girl that hard for long.

First run went very well.
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Got dads boat off the lift for the first time this season and took the family out to the sandbar.

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Hit the fuel dock before putting her up to beat the crowds next weekend; $100 got me a whopping 18 gal of 90 octane ethanol free :shaking:
 
Someone found a submerged 6" log at 30mph. Lower unit oil looks good no milkshake or stripper glitter. Didn't realize it was missing a chunk till we put it on the trailer 200 miles later.

What's irates thought? Run it?
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