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Build 83’ 304-Yota (Told my Chica it’s for her)

Don't forget to check your driveshaft length after moving the axle forward. Ask me how I know... I used a 1 1/2" driveshaft spacer from TG to correct the problem.

It worked ok until I got the dreaded front axle wrap and then it would pull apart.
 
Hodgiemoto said:
Don't forget to check your driveshaft length after moving the axle forward. Ask me how I know... I used a 1 1/2" driveshaft spacer from TG to correct the problem.

It worked ok until I got the dreaded front axle wrap and then it would pull apart.
Click to expand...
That always happened to me if I was rolling backwards down a hill and slammed on the brakes. Long slip made that problem go away.
 
Hodgiemoto said:
Don't forget to check your driveshaft length after moving the axle forward. Ask me how I know... I used a 1 1/2" driveshaft spacer from TG to correct the problem.

It worked ok until I got the dreaded front axle wrap and then it would pull apart.
Click to expand...
Good call. I may use a spacer if a trip pops up before I swap the trans. Unfortunately, it has full brand new driveshafts, and the G52/54 is 5" longer than the L45, so it will need both shafts reworked anyways.

Sluggy said:
That always happened to me if I was rolling backwards down a hill and slammed on the brakes. Long slip made that problem go away.
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I hope my shocks act as a limit strap to prevent that lol :laughing:
 
Hodgiemoto said:
Don't forget to check your driveshaft length after moving the axle forward. Ask me how I know... I used a 1 1/2" driveshaft spacer from TG to correct the problem.

It worked ok until I got the dreaded front axle wrap and then it would pull apart.
Click to expand...

I keep telling myself I need to check mine too lol. I'm keeping my fingers crossed my drive shaft is long enough after linking the front.
 
Alright, KOH is all done, time to get back to the 304 for the 26’ wheeling season.

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The proposal dune at sunset, that I have yet to use :laughing:

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Big one is getting the new trans in. I’m hesitant to run the G52/54 I have, and I’m debating going with a rebuilt W56, or buy MtnYota ’s takeout lol. Either way I’ll have to move the skid plate back and rework the driveshafts.

I tore the front grill apart in an attempt to clean it up. So that escalated quickly. I have a new grill, bezels and LED headlights to go in.

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I also decided to use my Black Friday special winch for the 304, I also bought the HF synthetic line. Hopefully it fits on the spool, I had to weld a tab on the drum so that I could attach the rope to the winch.

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Still working on it. Been working 7 days a week, and try to get at least an hour a night on it.

I got the Winch mounted, modified the battery cables, and installed the new Harbor Freight Syn Line.

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Original plan was to make a pig tail off the battery using a 350amp Anderson Connector, to plug and unplug the winch, as well as used for Jumper Cables, Air Compressor, Welder etc.

I still built and installed the pig tail, but I wired the winch to the battery, I may go back and add an Anderson Connector to the winch, I’m worried about it constantly drawing off the battery.

2awg cables and the Connectors installed.

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Comes out near the winch for easy access.

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Wires secured using dipped clamps and an existing hole in the radiator.

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My front end beautification project is complete lol.

I wanted to add LED headlights, a new grill and new headlight bezels. Turned out to be a little more work than expected due to Toyota's reverse grounding headlight system. This system required a cheap $22 harness off Amazon in order to get the LED's working.

First up trimmed the new grill and then coated the grill and new bezels with Duplicator Bed Armor, I've done a few grills using this method, and it holds up great and looks pretty good. First I laid down two coats of Upol Adhesion Promoter before the Bed Armor.

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The LED Housings didn't fit the mounts ugh, so I trimmed them and they fit perfectly.

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Next up was the harness. I modified it to remove excess length and run a wire for the halo's, which are powered off the auxbeam.

Link to harness here:

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I see what they did here...

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Modified harness.

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I might get over them, but they were pretty inexpensive and seem good quality, and the low beams are awesome.

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Started the trans swap. Like everything it’s snowballing lol. I hate leaks, and this thing has quite a few that I’m addressing. Two from the oil pan, rear man seal, transmission input seal, t-case output, rear pinion, it also has a front diff leak, but I’ll be addressing that one later, for now I just tightened the lower nuts.

Perfect balance point to drop everything in one piece using an engine hoist.

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Mouse nest in the bell housing lol.
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Party time. Slight seal groove in the crank, but should be fine with the new OEM seal.
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Cleaned up all the pan and rear main seal hardware, but I might buy new ones as the lock washer look roached.
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Been plugging away. Decided Turbo might be a summer project, but for sure will happen.

I ordered the LCE Shorty Header, then remembered I had a lightly used LCE full length header. I’m not sure which one I’ll use, I’m leaning towards the full length.

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I ordered new Studs from LCE as well. And unfortunately one already had a Heli Coil in it. It was done well nice, clean and straight. I ended up replacing the heli coil. And the Stud torqued to 10ft-lbs no problem.

I also ordered a flush mount zip tie snip. Thanks for the reminder mobil1syn. Made in the USA. Also picked up and Ares Stud Remover. It worked very well, and made in Taiwan which was surprising.

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Now it’s a party lol.
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All done.
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I also got the resurfaced OEM flywheel installed and new Aisin Clutch all torqued down with new OEM Flywheel and Flex Plate Bols. Shout out to Kevin at All Standard in Campbell. He said the previous resurfacing was done at the wrong angle and they gouged the outer edge, but he got it all squared away.
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What are you thinking for turbo? Betting a stock outback\forester turbo would be an easy find and cheap.
 
2 86s said:
What did you decide on for your transmission swap?
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The original L52, died before I got the truck. It had an L45, 4-Speed, when I got it, and after Fordyce it wouldn't stay in any gear. I had to drive holding the shifter to keep it in gear. I debated doing the Marlin G54 Bearing upgrade on an L52, however I didn't have the L52 anymore as I used it for a core for a W56 for my 88' Runner.

I was given a low mile G52/54 that I was going to swap in, but MtnYota began his AX15/R 3RZ swap and didn't need his low mile (yet beat on) rebuilt W56 anymore. So I bought that from him for $90 and 6qts of Redline MT-90

Long story short, I wanted a stronger transmission, and the extra 5" length will allow me better drive shaft angles.

(Just realized you said "what" not "why" :laughing:

Ready to go back in after some cleaning. I am still waiting on the RAD Tripple Stick to show up, it's been about a month since I ordered it.

W56 with a Marlin Doubler 21-Spline 2.28/4.7. Replaced front and rear seals, sealed and cleaned the front Bearing Plate, replaced the rear output seal on the T-Case, new throwout bearing, cleaned and painted the shift fork, new bellhousing boot.

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Now I need to figure out how to clean these openings up. Good thing the triple shiftters will be exactly the same spot as the existing second hole.

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350TacoZilla said:
What are you thinking for turbo? Betting a stock outback\forester turbo would be an easy find and cheap.
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It's Propaned, so I'm going to get with GotPropane and go with what they recommend. My system has no miles on it, but it's probably 13 years old, and I'm sure the rubber parts might need replaced.
 
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Well after a few Claws I mapped out and cut out the tunnel. Might have been a little too much. Either way it will give me more room to pull and adjust shifters, and I’m going to build a cover out of .060 aluminum to seal it up and to attach the boots

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I also picked up 5, 37x12.50r17 Patagonia MT-02’s, 4 are brand new, one is new but has a side wall hole that I’ll either fix with Glue Tread or have it vulcanized.

First impression, they are fairly heavy and are about 2” taller than the 36’s so I’m not sure how they will fit.

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Diablo169 said:
Well after a few Claws I mapped out and cut out the tunnel. Might have been a little too much. Either way it will give me more room to pull and adjust shifters, and I’m going to build a cover out of .060 aluminum to seal it up and to attach the boots
Click to expand...

Snowy

Post in thread 'Snowy's Village Whore Tacoma'

Shifters finally showed up this weekend. Nearly 6 weeks from order to delivery is annoying and the shifter base wouldn't cycle the chain case correctly on the high/low rail. The end of the shifter was too large and hitting the rail before it could travel fully into low range. Hit it with a carbide bit and got it to cycle cleanly. I also had to cut up and modify the triple stick base to push the shifters forward enough to land into the stock bezel. I knew that part was coming, but just was time consuming to have to figure out.

I also had to completely pivot and weld in 3/4' square around...
  • Like

you should do what snowy did

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mobil1syn said:
Snowy

Post in thread 'Snowy's Village Whore Tacoma'

Shifters finally showed up this weekend. Nearly 6 weeks from order to delivery is annoying and the shifter base wouldn't cycle the chain case correctly on the high/low rail. The end of the shifter was too large and hitting the rail before it could travel fully into low range. Hit it with a carbide bit and got it to cycle cleanly. I also had to cut up and modify the triple stick base to push the shifters forward enough to land into the stock bezel. I knew that part was coming, but just was time consuming to have to figure out.

I also had to completely pivot and weld in 3/4' square around...
  • Like

you should do what snowy did

1776874885126.png
Click to expand...
I was just checking Snowy 's out! I'm out of 1x1, I wonder if Home Depot sells it.

My RAD Triple Shifters are coming up on 4 weeks since ordered. I'm going to attempt a temporary Triple Shifter so that I don't have to cut another hole in the floor.
 
Diablo169 said:
I was just checking Snowy 's out! I'm out of 1x1, I wonder if Home Depot sells it.

My RAD Triple Shifters are coming up on 4 weeks since ordered. I'm going to attempt a temporary Triple Shifter so that I don't have to cut another hole in the floor.
Click to expand...

It's a shame that RAD sold and lead times went to **** since they are a part of the group that now owns Behemoth. It was 5 or 6 weeks for me to get my triple shifters from them too.

No regrets from me on doing the welded in ring of square tube with rivnuts. Super easy to access and service the cases now. The floor is way more stable than before and you can make yours nice with cupholders and boat decking on it to church things up for a mini.
 
Thanks Snowy I don’t know they sold. I love the triple shifter in my 88’ works great. As of now I made my own redneck triple shifter that I hope fits lol. Didn’t get the best pic as of now.

Modified a Marlin (I believe) twin stick so I don’t have to cut another hole in the floor before our Con trip.

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All levers are even when in 2Hi

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I’m also doing the LCE Short Shifter. If I remember right it was needed to clear the triple shifters on my 88’. I just can’t remember if the rubber factory gasket goes on the bottom of the spacer or the top.

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YotaAtieToo said:
Well that's something :laughing:

Seems like they would move up and down a lot?
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Yeah we’ll see what happens. They were really heavy so I drilled holes and cut off the ends.

I’m worried the 2WD/4WD lever will pop out of 4x4 when I hit a bump lol.

My luck, as soon as I get everything installed the triple shifters will arrive :laughing:

I lined all the shifters up in 2WD Hi.

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This is shifted in 4x4 Double Low.

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Now hopefully they clear the trans shift lever.
 
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