What did you do to your GM today?

total newb said:
I think i finaly figued out why the front has sat so low on this and the last hood but not the hood that came with it. The a frame the latch is mounted to is bent in and i just need to relpace it. Not a big deal but some thing i need to grab.

Yes i have the 8.1 in the burb. Totalgirlfriend has a pickup that is drivetrain equiped identicaly but has the 6.0, and i dont care for it. Its a noticable difference. I have a black burb the i bought and is in use with extended family, it is 8.1 but has 4.10 (otherwise identical) and it is that much better again.

So if youre debating on one try to get 4.10 equiped more than 6.0 v 8.1.

6.0 3.73 meh
8.1 3.73 id like it more if it was 4.10
8.1 4.10 **** yeah

All 8.1 burbs are 14bff rear. 6.0 are 90% 14bsf, but 14bff versions do exist.
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Don't forget the 6.0 3.73 D60 rear like I had. They are easier to spot though since the rear wheels turn :jester:

I wish they offered the 8.1 in a quadrasteer but it never happened. Weird part is for the duramax swaps the 8.1 is preferred as the starting vehicle but there are a ton of QS ones diesel swapped too so not really sure if the D60 is as weak of a link as GM thought.
 
70k later on the 2.2

Another set of plug wire in case. Upside for Autozone is free replacement lifetime

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After finding a video about replacing the non-working 6disc cd player I ordered the replacement part thru Ali express. ****ers have great communication thru shipping. Had to swap the board from mine to the new one and while I had the radio out I wired in an aux plug into the XM wiring. New cd player in the factory head unit does **** when you want to load a cd but doesn’t accept a disc and aux plug works but sounds like hot garbage. $90 down the drain, and ready to pull the trigger on a refurbished factory head unit with Bluetooth
 
4Eyedturd said:
After finding a video about replacing the non-working 6disc cd player I ordered the replacement part thru Ali express. ****ers have great communication thru shipping. Had to swap the board from mine to the new one and while I had the radio out I wired in an aux plug into the XM wiring. New cd player in the factory head unit does **** when you want to load a cd but doesn’t accept a disc and aux plug works but sounds like hot garbage. $90 down the drain, and ready to pull the trigger on a refurbished factory head unit with Bluetooth
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****ty part is stock replacements are more than aftermarkets, and neither has all of what id want out of any of them.
 
Got the US Shift controller dialed in for the 4l80E...drove the burb around the yard a bit. Brakes are still spongy after bleeding a couple times...gotta figure that out. Washed a year's worth of shop dust off...except for the roof, where there's a couple dozen holes from all sorts of **** over the years.

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Started and warmed up up the burb no issue after work last night, 5 min later gauge says 0psi !!! Wtf.

No noises but i stopped as soon as i could, search for psi leaks/flows and dont see anything, has oil, now the gauge says 80psi, wtf wtf.

Drove home no issue or noise and the gauge keeps flopping back n forth 0-80-0-80....

Throw the scanner on it, gauge 0, data display "oil psi monitered, 147psi" ****ing lol.

Had a sender from parts list on the black burb and shoved my donkey **** thick arm between the valve cover and fire wall and back to sop.
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Engine went wonky as well as trans shifting. Hopefully just need new wire/connector for IAT(temp fluctuate from normal to 300*)

Replaced IAT and air intake though but fun limping it home
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Thanks.
They were the cheapest wheels I could find in 17 or 18 inch. Hard to find good used 16 tires now.
I broke down and bought those Radar tires for $102 each new. They were half off!! Had to buy them,almost as cheap as used.
He's a good kid,getting into the redneck part of a Rednexican now.
 
Pulled the motor yesteray. Aluminum 6.2 L92. Busted lifter, bent pushrod, wiped cam lobe.

It’s beensitting too long (better part of 7-years). I had just sorted out the fuel system and installed injectors. I tried pre-oiling, but clearly wasn’t able to overcome this.

It ran exceptionally well for a test drive, then the tick. I pulled the oil pan and found needle bearings.

I did not realize that my motor was non-AFM, so that is a win.

I’m open to suggestions on a cam. Keep or discard VVT?

I’m not planning to pull it all the way down, but I’m not sure on the cam bearings. Cam was smooth except for the one wiped lobe.



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Been little over year since rebuild. 2nd time drain and fill trans fluid but replacing filter annually. Let's see if we'd get another 200k outta this ol 4l60e lol

Walmart dex vi valvoline for $7 a quart isn't too bad
 
The steering wheel on my '04 C5500 has been falling apart for a while and leaving my hands black after driving it. I have looked for replacements, only to find that the few used ones I can find online are just as bad. I was searching the P/N and other superseded numbers and never found a good steering wheel. While on eBay I searched for 2004 GMC steering wheels and found a '00-'02 Tahoe/S-10/Yukon wheel that looked the same. Only difference in the wheel was that this one is leather wrapped. For $135 I decided I would try it out.

Old:

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New:

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Installed:

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It worked perfect.
 
Got a lot of wiring to finish up on the inside...Dakota Digital, tranny controller, misc **** from PO's...but, did get some AMP steps installed utilizing Vintage Engineering brackets. I just welded the outer brackets to the frame instead of their somewhat cheesy bolt around the frame design (didn't fit with the exhaust). Got the driver side step wired in and working so I didn't have to carry a step stool around to get in and out.
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any pics of the brackets? what did you get, the burb ones? ha! thought it was a crewcab for a second!
 
350TacoZilla said:
The big thing to remember with the Kodiak\Topkick is the cab is based on the Express\Savana and those are usually a few updates behind the Silverado\Sierra.
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It can be hit or miss. Somethings do cross over though. I have found that searching for used parts for a Express will get you a better price for the same crossover part for a C5500. Vander Haags puts a mark up on all Topkick stuff, but you can find the same piece on their site under the van alternative for cheaper. One thing that I have found that does not cross over is the accelerator pedal. I have been dealing with an intermittent P1125 code for the APP sensor and all diagnostics point to the pedal assembly. Problem is that AC Delco no longer manufactures it and they are now around $590 because the Workhorse RV online parts people seem to have purchased all the old stock. I can't find an alternative and don't have faith in a $200-300 used one. I figured the van option would work, but its totally different.
 
abrogate said:
It can be hit or miss. Somethings do cross over though. I have found that searching for used parts for a Express will get you a better price for the same crossover part for a C5500. Vander Haags puts a mark up on all Topkick stuff, but you can find the same piece on their site under the van alternative for cheaper. One thing that I have found that does not cross over is the accelerator pedal. I have been dealing with an intermittent P1125 code for the APP sensor and all diagnostics point to the pedal assembly. Problem is that AC Delco no longer manufactures it and they are now around $590 because the Workhorse RV online parts people seem to have purchased all the old stock. I can't find an alternative and don't have faith in a $200-300 used one. I figured the van option would work, but its totally different.
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Got any pics of your setup? I can snoop around and see if I find something that works for you.
 
It took longer than I expected then again I was trying my best no to break any plastic it’s pretty brittle being a 94 all of the oh **** handle screw covers broke except the ones that have the hook.

I’ve never done a headliner before still need to get the material I have the adhesive spray a guy recommended. I also have ten holes in the floor of the cargo area I’ll tack weld guessing from amps and a boom box from previous owners.

There’s also some black trim that is pretty beat on the side of the headliner going to check LMC for some of this stuff not sure where else I’d look.
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KrustyTJ said:
It took longer than I expected then again I was trying my best no to break any plastic it’s pretty brittle being a 94 all of the oh **** handle screw covers broke except the ones that have the hook.

I’ve never done a headliner before still need to get the material I have the adhesive spray a guy recommended. I also have ten holes in the floor of the cargo area I’ll tack weld guessing from amps and a boom box from previous owners.

There’s also some black trim that is pretty beat on the side of the headliner going to check LMC for some of this stuff not sure where else I’d look.
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Does that thing shake like a dog or have bad motor mounts or something? I have had chevy's I beat on quite a bit and never had that many problems with exhaust. and I would say I was fairly lazy with hangers, one for each muffler and one on each tailpipe right after rear axle. No expansion joints or anything like that, just headers to pipes to mufflers to tailpipes.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Does that thing shake like a dog or have bad motor mounts or something? I have had chevy's I beat on quite a bit and never had that many problems with exhaust. and I would say I was fairly lazy with hangers, one for each muffler and one on each tailpipe right after rear axle. No expansion joints or anything like that, just headers to pipes to mufflers to tailpipes.
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It doesn't shake bad, nothing is bound, motor mounts are good. The y pipe was curled inward towards the engine, so I put a flex coupling between the right and left side. The roads here are horrible, truck is heavy and bounces all over the damn place, it rides better with the kyb shocks though.
 
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