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It's a single piston Lincoln. I guess "rebuilt" is a little outtah line. I've slapped seals in it twice. It'll work 7/8's assed (much better than 1/2 assed) for multiple years then just **** the bed again one day.What brand jack did you rebuild that failed twice on your rebuilds? What failed on them?
I rebuilt an old school Lincoln jack (hein Werner) a few years ago and it’s working fine. I bought the jack new decades ago and the main pump seal just rotted out.
I have around three more of those to rebuild with different brand markings on them but are Hein Werner jacks. I have a couple old school sears craftsman 1-1/2 ton jacks I got kits for to I’m going to rebuild. They’re made in Japan.
There’s nothing much to rebuilding them imo unless someone messed up the needle seat valve by extreme over tightening it. That will require a valve seat cutter tool to repair that.
just as rare as water that's wetYou’ll need around a 1750 rpm motor for that drill press.
It is common, I know this. But people use higher rpm motors on stuff like that not knowing any difference. I got a 1950’s craftsman 12” bandsaw that had a 3000 rpm range motor with it around 15 years ago.just as rare as water that's wet
What's what looks like Iike a computer screen on it do?Picked up a tapping arm for a job a couple months ago. Sure makes tapping easy.
I watched a video on one of these just the other day.Picked up a tapping arm for a job a couple months ago. Sure makes tapping easy.
Yeah, that video is the same one I got. But the highlights are you can control the torque (even though the collets also have built in clutches), but more important for me, you can control the tap speed (both tapping and retracting), and the tap depth. In auto mode, you just push and release teh down button, and it taps down to the desired depth, then automatically reverses out. Makes it very consistent, but also nice to operate when doing hundreds of holes you don't have to hold down the button, push a second button, etc.What's what looks like Iike a computer screen on it do?
Good for mfg purposes but hard to justify for home shop imo.Yeah, that video is the same one I got. But the highlights are you can control the torque (even though the collets also have built in clutches), but more important for me, you can control the tap speed (both tapping and retracting), and the tap depth. In auto mode, you just push and release teh down button, and it taps down to the desired depth, then automatically reverses out. Makes it very consistent, but also nice to operate when doing hundreds of holes you don't have to hold down the button, push a second button, etc.
Yeah, I had a job that was 144 parts with 6 tapped holes each. Had some issues tapping with my CNC, so bought this to finish the job (since I had another job come up with 275 parts and 24 tapped holes each). Ended up figuring out what was wrong with my program, so thankfully tapping those in the machine, but will have it for future work.Good for mfg purposes but hard to justify for home shop imo.
That is a magnetic annular cutter drill. Will only have like 2” of travel. So it cannot be used for drills .I won this mag drill at auction for $300. I need to get arbor cutters for it and a good set of those is $$$.
It came with a bunch of hole saws and three of them are carbide teeth saws. One is a large carbide saw with a holder.
Mag drill is one of those tools that are nice to have to use but justify buying one considering the amount of uses it’ll have is tough. But at $300 for a good working condition unit. I’ll bit. It was at my last top bid too and I wasn’t sure the other bidder would stop or not.
Came with the steel cart too
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why can it not be used with drills?That is a magnetic annular cutter drill. Will only have like 2” of travel. So it cannot be used for drills .
No room for chuck. Only travels about 2.5” from the plate. You can see it has a lower spindle support. That does not move.why can it not be used with drills?
My magnetic drills all have like 6-8” of travel with the drill chuck on them.
Or to be able to change the speed, or whatever else. Didnt even think about that when I bought mine
Still would have to cut the drill down to 2” or less to get it to work :(. They just don’t have the stroke to make it work well.
Still would have to cut the drill down to 2” or less to get it to work :(. They just don’t have the stroke to make it work well.

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This guy's got a chuck adapter and a bunch of travel. Definitely a great tool and plenty of power. Magnet holds better too.
Ive got that hogen, and also the low profile hogen that takes the special cutters.
Mag drill is one of those tools that are nice to have to use but justify buying one considering the amount of uses it’ll have is tough.
they certainly got all the weight and need a couple feet of headroom, thoughI think the ol milwaukee's set the bar pretty high for a doitall magdrill.
looks like the motor can be repositioned on that double dovetailed slide![]()
This guy's got a chuck adapter and a bunch of travel.

lolLong as the power dont flash, I'm ok with that![]()