Build 94 Sonoma build

Duc said:
In the garage they feel comfortable. The seats seem a little high but that may from driving a highlander for work.


Coilovers are order finally. I had to just stop going back and forth on what I wanted and cost. Hopefully I dont regret spending the extra money on the DSC or going with the 2.5
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A little inspiration from watching KOH? :laughing:
 
'84 Bronco II said:
A little inspiration from watching KOH? :laughing:
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Nah, I wanted to order the parts before KOH but nothing was in supply. I wonder why.......

Hopefully it wont take to long to receive since website did update to 0 in stock after I placed the order. Now I need to figure out shock hoops or shock towers for the mounting. I will need stock up on drinks once I know the shipment date since I will need some help bending hoops or building the towers. I could almost make the Feb 22 date but that is way to soon for a shake down run.


Reinstall 3.73 front gears
Weld driveshafts fully
Restart engine
Mount brakelines - some areas need clamps
Bleed brakes - curious on brake feel with stock MC
Order spicer 1550 front shafts
Reinstall bed for now
Rock sliders
belly armor
Order DOM tubing for exo cage
Figure out hydro system
 
Those are the shocks I want to run eventually. Cool stuff I am sure you will like them.
 
Duc said:
In the garage they feel comfortable. The seats seem a little high but that may from driving a highlander for work.


Coilovers are order finally. I had to just stop going back and forth on what I wanted and cost. Hopefully I dont regret spending the extra money on the DSC or going with the 2.5
1770588584464.png
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:smokin:
 
Factory seats seem like they are practically on the floor board. So anything that is normal may seem high in the truck. I'd say the stock frame could go up two inches and it would be inline with every other normal vehicle.
 
LScout800 said:
Those are the shocks I want to run eventually. Cool stuff I am sure you will like them.
Click to expand...

Hopefully for the price.

Skinny said:
Factory seats seem like they are practically on the floor board. So anything that is normal may seem high in the truck. I'd say the stock frame could go up two inches and it would be inline with every other normal vehicle.
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Rough measurements from floor to top of the cushion in the front
stock = 8inches
PRP seats = 10.5

Now the PRP seats have about 1in more of foam and different profile to the seat cushion. I think your about right for the height difference. At least it will help with the view over the hood.
 
Wow I had a great guess! I just did a short trip with my S10 and man the stock buckets are murder in every way.

****ing V8 and 60s didn't let me down though...yeeyee
 
Last saturday was a cluster trying to put together '84 Bronco II tube bender that has been in the corner of his garage for years. Personally I feel like I lost a couple brain cells when putting together the rogue fab bender. Somehow we put it together every way except the correct way till the end. We did run into a issue with the HF air/hydro ram not working with air till I found a post about bleeding the ram using the do not adjust valve. Not sure I can go back to the horizontal benders or ones without clamp block to help with repeatable bends. The rogue bender was nice to use for bending shock hoops. Still kicking myself that I sold my old JD2 bender about 10+ years ago since I needed room when I moved across the country. But friends having the tools helps alot while I have the CNC machines to help them. Also knocked out a roller for notching 1.75 tubing on the 2x72in belt grinder during the week.

Coilovers arrived on Monday afternoon.
2.5in coilovers.jpg


I had to finish plating the frame before mounting the shock hoops. Still unsure if I will be going full hydro or JR4X system with DE ram so I left the option of mounting the steering box on the inside of the frame.
additonal plating.jpg


First shock hoop placement was low compared to the hood.
Hoop low.jpg


I should have purchased the coilover's with the 90 degree fittings and short hoses. Dam MC gets in the way unless Im above or below it. Plan is to mount on the shock hoops to avoid cutting a hole in the hood. Reservoir nitrogen was drained off to allow shaft to compress.
Mock up 2.jpg


Presssure from Accutune. Hopefully my gauge is still good after 16 years and multiple household moves. Glad I never sold my setup for charging the old ORIs I had.
Coilover pressure.jpg


Easy to fill with the correct tools. I really thought I would be charged for hydro test on my old nitrogen tank when I exchanged it since it was also 16 years old.
adding pressure back.jpg


250lb/150lb springs installed. I have zero experience with coilovers so I was a little surprised to see 2-3in of gap at full extension. ORIs behave alot different. After some research, I need to set the initial zero preload.
Springs installed.jpg


First time on weight. I still need to adjust the preload on the coilovers and raise the front about 2.5inches since Im at 1.5 inches up travel right now.
On-weight.jpg


I need to order some better shock tabs versus what I could get overnight on amazon since I forgot to order stuff. Tomorrow I will probably order a bunch of stuff from motobilt or barnes4wd

Driver side can be dropped down below the MC using the current tab. Not happy with the arrangement right now but I needed to see the truck on its own weight.
Driver side mount.jpg


Dam dryer was in the way also. Somehow I tacked welded this bracket in alot better position than driver side.
Passenger side mount.jpg



Getting closer to being able to drive out of garage.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
You made some good progress this weekend!
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Yes i did. I may need to redo some of it but its only tacked into place. I wish the truck could be lower but I would need to figure out how to get around the starter. I would like to get the truck 2-3inches lower. May we do a bent upper to clear it?

Well thats a first for me to see, poly bushing will not work with this setup. Also **** chevy bushings. Guess I need to order new frame leaf spring hangers or weld in new tube inside the frame.
Rear leaf spring mount.jpg


Setting the coilovers at zero preload raised the truck 2-2.5 inches up. Going to leave it at 3.5 up travel till the drag link hits the diff.
4.5inches till slide hits the adjuster
3in to top of coilover

I may need to buy the supplies to take apart the coilovers to install the 90 degree fittings unless someone local has the tools.
zero preload.jpg
 
I got a little carried away with ordering stuff from barnes 4wd and motobilt. I dont enjoy making tabs anymore when they can be purchased for $2-3 each. Both companies have been amazing in the fall when I ordered.

Motobilt
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Barnes 4WD
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I need to piece together a full hydro system to purchase this week. Not to worried about the truck returning to center if the hydro lines blow since I put 7-10 degrees of caster on the front axle.

Plan so far
2.5x8 or 2.5x10 ram
Non-reactive obital valve
Reusable fittings - Had good luck in the past
 
You make good consistent work on this, makes for an entertaining thread.

Look forward to seeing it smash through some NM rocks soon
 
fl0w3n said:
You make good consistent work on this, makes for an entertaining thread.

Look forward to seeing it smash through some NM rocks soon
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Lots of 2 steps forward and 1-2 back if feels like but I would rather get it correct the first time.

The bottom of the frame being at 24.5inches seemed ride height so Im trying to drop it 2-3in in height. Making the decision to go full hydro with a orbital will allow some modifications to drop it I think.

Some areas I will need to modify to raise it up. Upper link hitting the original motor mount
Upper link hitting.jpg


Current panhard location on passenger side. I can clearance the frame to allow tube to recess into frame some
panhard bar location passenger.jpg


Plan to raise frame mount up more
Panhard bar diff hitting.jpg


I may move the upper axle link more to the passenger side so I will need to clearance frame a little.
upper link frame issue.jpg


Now on to the first mod, removing the stock motor mount to save some space. I had to plasma the stupid motor mount out since nothing wanted to release.
Plasma motor mount.jpg


2 bolts up top and 1 below. Cant imagine removing these with the IFS in the way.
Stupid motor bolts.jpg


New motor mount test fit. I will be making mounts that tie the front of the frame to the side before engaging the poly mount. This should help the upper mount alot. Tomorrow I will get a measurement but should be ~3inches at least. I may need to put a bend in the upper to clear the starter.
Motor poly mount.jpg
 
Knocked out a **** load of modification to the 3link suspension with the help of '84 Bronco II and willis_racing . The upper link, panhard and temperory tie rod had to be adjusted after dropping the truck ~2.5in due to new engine mount.

Bottom of frame measurement
Pre-drop: 25in
Now: 22.5in

On to the fun pictures. Still in temp stage till I get proper tubing.

Had to use a bent upper link to clear the starter and frame when I dropped the truck down more. Will be a 1.75x1/4 wall tubing
Bent upper link.jpg


Full bump Really sucks up into the frame.
Full bump.jpg


Not sure we could get any more into the frame. Left about 1/8in to 1/4 gap from the frame. Plan to replace driver side engine mount also at a later date.
Sub full bump.jpg


We spaced the shock tabs further out to avoid hitting the coilover body. Tomorrow I will be machining a solid spacer from some spare metal then welding the spacer to the shock tab. I will also be plating the shock tabs together.
temp Coilover spacers.jpg


A small modification needs to be completed to the hood to allow full closure.
Coilover mountings.jpg


Might be able to use lower bolt hole with a modified bend at axle end.
Panhard at full bump.jpg


We over bent the panhard a little but this tube will be replaced with 1.75x1/4 wall DOM and mount replaced with a more solid setup.
Bent panhard.jpg


Full droop.
Full droop.jpg


Full droop.
Full droop 3.jpg


Ride height
Ride height.jpg



I need to do some more fender trimming before flexing the front out with tire installed since it hits at full bump. Also need to shorten the panhard about 1in to center the axle at ride height. Driver tire is roughly 1in closer to fender than passenger.
 
I have kinda a dumb question and this seems like a good spot for it. Why do guys never clearance the top of the axle housing? Shaving the bottom is so common there are kits to do it but everyone runs into issues with clearance on top at some point and it seems like it's normal to try moving stock motor mounts, changing oil pans, changing suspension geometry but never shave the top of the axle.
 
350TacoZilla said:
I have kinda a dumb question and this seems like a good spot for it. Why do guys never clearance the top of the axle housing? Shaving the bottom is so common there are kits to do it but everyone runs into issues with clearance on top at some point and it seems like it's normal to try moving stock motor mounts, changing oil pans, changing suspension geometry but never shave the top of the axle.
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Truss's are normally welded onto the top of the axle for additional strength versus the bottom of the axle. Clearancing the top of the axle would cause some serious strength issues. Bottom trusses would also remove ground clearance which would cause the axle to snag on every rock.


Plated the inner frame on the driver side before replacing the OEM engine mount. Not sure why this kicked my ass but hours were wasted on this process along with some welding slag rolling down my back.
driver mount and plating.jpg


Picked up a set of 14" fox shocks for the rear from '84 Bronco II for $400. Never been mounted P/N 980-02-035
www.shocksurplus.com

Fox 2.0 Factory Race Series w/ Remote Reservoir Shocks 980-02-035

Fox 2.0 Factory Race Series w/ Remote Reservoir 980-02-035. New parts, expert support, free shipping.
www.shocksurplus.com www.shocksurplus.com
rear shocks.jpg



Got a little carried away with ordering parts.
Spicer axle shafts with 1550 joints = $500

Steering @https://hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com/orbital-valves/
$319 160ML Hydraulic Steering Valve – 9.76 CI, Open Center Non-Load
$25 Off-Road Hydraulic Orbital Steering Valve Mount
$274 2.5x10 DE ram

Summit parts
$110 PSC 4.75 steering column for 3/4 30 spline
$160 PSC clevis ends

Polyperformance
2x$25 90 degree fittings for coilovers
$80 1 gallon of fox oil

Steering had to be ordered from multiple locations since I needed a 3/4 30 spline steering column versus the toyota stuff offered on the hydraulic site. Also they wanted $90 more for the clevis ends versus PSC. I would have also order the 90 degree fittings from summit if I could have found them.

Ive grown to enjoy ordering off summit racing since they dont charge for shipping and usually the prices are the same as the manufactures.
 
You know you are low when the panhard hits the engine balancer :lmao:

Looking good, I like to pop in here once in awhile to see what's happening. I've never driven a full hydro truck before. Seemed like this was still going to have some street ability in it. Is that a huge step towards a trailer rig or can you still run that down the highway like that?
 
Skinny said:
You know you are low when the panhard hits the engine balancer :lmao:

Looking good, I like to pop in here once in awhile to see what's happening. I've never driven a full hydro truck before. Seemed like this was still going to have some street ability in it. Is that a huge step towards a trailer rig or can you still run that down the highway like that?
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I dont think I could lower the truck anymore without moving the axle forward a few more inches and modifying the radiator mount. Calling it good for now.

Replacing the temporary axle panhard mount.
axle panhard temp.jpg


90% complete panhard bracket
Panhard bracket.jpg


Barnes 4WD ram mount bracket a little short for a 10in bracket. I had to move the ram about a inch more to allow for a extension to be welded on.
Ram mount 1.jpg


Ram mount rotate up till I no longer clear the panhard bar at bump

Ram mount 2.jpg


I used some blue tape to show where the tie rides when mounted under the steering arms. The normal location is far into the frame after I rotated the steering arms for caster. Cleared before I dropped the truck 2-3 inches. Oops. Not changing the caster anymore.
Tie rod location.jpg


Panhard bar fits...... Also now tucked behind the pulley.
Ram mount 3.jpg


I think I can move the panhard bar back another inch or two for the fittings to clear or I need to purchase a different ram that I can rotate where the fittings are. Cutting and rewelding will deform the cylinder.
Ram mount 4.jpg


And why wouldnt the ram get in the way.
Ram interference.jpg


Frame clearance
Frame clearance again.jpg
 
Might has well mix some coilover work into the mix. **** is everwhere in garage.
Coilover fun.jpg


HF adjustable spanner works with a little bit of grinding.
HF spanner modified.jpg


Hopefully I did it correctly for my first time.
coilover 90 degree.jpg
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Nice progress! Getting closer. I am looking forward to seeing it in action.
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Doesnt feel like it. I may need to move one of my lower links back an inch. I noticed the axle was further forward on the driver side when I placed the ram onto the mount. The front leaf spring bolt in the rear makes a nice reference point to measure each side. I still need to play with the panhard bar mounts and a little bit on the upper link. Also need to put tires on to check the ride height side to side again.

Debating on buying 2in carbon bump stops for the front. Kicking myself for not picking up the smoking deal on the king coilovers and bump stops.

ARB purchased for the front with reverse thick gears and a solid sleeve.
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Only Elite gears had the 5.38 sterlings in stock. Not sure why the price differs from website and ebay.

$400 5.38 gears on ebay. savings of $50 from website

$290 master install kit on website, savings of $131.11 compared to ebay
 
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Knocked a few projects today.

Passenger frame has about a 2in bump on the inside. Hard to see in picture.
passenger frame bump.jpg


Bump removed before plating. I forgot to get a picture of the plating.
Frame bump removed.jpg


I made up some coilover spacers for the mounts to help clear the shock body.
Coilover mount spacer.jpg


I will box the mount after test fitting the coilovers again.
Coilover mount spacer welded.jpg



Also fixed the front axle being offset to the passenger side by 2 inches by shorten the panhard eye to eye measurement by 2 inches. I need to recheck the measurement from the rear leaf spring bolt to the axle again after shifting it over. I also moved the panhard mount further back toward the engine. This helped with the hydraulic fittings cleaning the panhard bar.
 
Managed to test out the travel on the suspension today. I will need to clearance for the tires some more.
Driver drop.jpg


Passenger drop.jpg


I may move the panhard mount up a little more to avoid the panhard kissing the ram mount some.
Panhard mount location.jpg


Driveshaft hits the frame at full bump
Driveshaft interference 2.jpg


Also hit the frame if pinion was rotated.
Driveshaft interference .jpg


Going to be fun reinforcing this cut out.
Driveshaft frame clearance.jpg


So to the next challenge. The 1350 CV is binding before its at full droop. The joint is being limited by the centering ball and not the u-joint interference.
Driveshaft droop.jpg


Now I need to figure out how to decrease the angle required for the driveshaft. The transfercase being tilted back 5 degree doesnt help the issue but I was unable to change with the stock engine mounts. Guess I should have done that before welding the new engine mounts in fully.
Tcase angle.jpg


I would rather not drop the engine down a few inches to level out the Tcase input since that would cause hell on the front geometry that is finally done. Second option is running a pillow block setup to reduce the overall angle required for the driveshaft.
Pillow block area.jpg


Two different thoughts for the pillow block setup
1. Purchase a setup from busted knuckles or wide open designs. $450
T-case flange => 1350 flange => carrier setup => Remove flange from 1350 for mounting to carrier setup.

2. Build my own setup.
I have a couple spare slip yokes in either 1350 or 1410 flavors that measure about 1.860in dia along with flanges. I can turn down the female slip yoke to 1-13/16in to fit into a dodge pillow block.
T-Case flange =>1350/1410 flange => Male slip side with 1350/1410=> female slip mounted in dodge pillow block => welded flange for 1350 CV on tube mount side of female slip.
Drill and tapping the end of the male slip would allow a bolt pull the two slip parts together. This would allow the thrust load to be transfer to the T-case flange like normal since the dodge flange style does not have a thrust rating.

dodge style flange. I can bolt the pillow block to plate steel.
1773191105550.png


3. Machine a setup using the spare sterling spindle bearings I have.
This seams like a huge pain and will probably cost more than buying a setup.


Also bought 2.0 carbon shocks bump stop with 2" travel.
 
Damn 😳 Amazing how far offset the pinion is on these axles.

I'm also surprised with how far forward and with a doubler you still had the front CV issue. I think I was taking about that way back in the thread. Mine is just about to the point at full droop where it starts to bind in the rotation. But I guess you also have a tcase that is tucked further up then mine.

For some reason the packing in an S10 just has some wonky angles and dimensions. Like if this were a Jeep the driveshaft would be twice as long and this would be a non-issue. S10 problems...

Is there any machining to be had on the centering ball even if it doesn't seal? I know some of the vendors on the web have some pretty extreme angle capability. Sure it may not seal at full droop and cost money but it solves a lot of problems.
 
Skinny said:
Damn 😳 Amazing how far offset the pinion is on these axles.

I'm also surprised with how far forward and with a doubler you still had the front CV issue. I think I was taking about that way back in the thread. Mine is just about to the point at full droop where it starts to bind in the rotation. But I guess you also have a tcase that is tucked further up then mine.

For some reason the packing in an S10 just has some wonky angles and dimensions. Like if this were a Jeep the driveshaft would be twice as long and this would be a non-issue. S10 problems...

Is there any machining to be had on the centering ball even if it doesn't seal? I know some of the vendors on the web have some pretty extreme angle capability. Sure it may not seal at full droop and cost money but it solves a lot of problems.
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The earlier decision to rotate the NP205 to flat bottom the truck and 14in coilovers added some to difficulty to the driveshaft problem. Also the SD60 inner C is close to the diff compared to the king pin axles. If the pinion was 3 inches towards the passenger side then I could have rotated the pinon up some more while avoiding the frame. But that would have taken custom axle shafts on the long and short side of the axle setup.

Not sure about modifying the centering ball for more travel. Guessing the companies cut down the cup in length to allow the pin to rotate over more instead of hitting the cup. Not sure.
 
Maybe a solution to the driveshaft issue using the dodge 1410 driveshaft off ebay.

Minor grinding on the CV resulted in 30-35 degrees of joint angle. I will have a better understanding what the joint is capable of once I pull it apart. I had limited access with the 4.5 grinder and the almost dead dremel. Either way this setup will work fine for the truck. I should switch the pinon over to 1410 also. I may need to switch the rear slip yoke to the front for the additional travel or try to find another one in junkyard.
Clearanced 1410 CV.jpg


I think Im good now.
Clearanced 1410 CV-1.jpg
 
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