Tdi rhd jimny build

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**** i cant wait to see what this hoopty sounds like
 
Just shy of two years of ownership and im finally tearing down for final assembly 🙃
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Oh sweet more mouse treasures
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Gotta get the front to kyle to get the gears done and paint/assemble the rear, definitely not overkill for a daily driver🤣
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bdkw1 said:
Well, at least you won't have to worry about breaking diffs.
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Id hope not, im building this as a daily/weekend cruiser hard to justify wheeling something imported like this when ive got a yj on tons a buggy and a built toyota to smash ****😂 and in all honesty a 9" is cheaper to build than 9% of other rear axles. I think all said and done i might be around $2000 into the rear end with a lot of upgrades mainly the price was the $1600 third. Everything else was acquired from trade deals
 
So turns out yukon shafts do not jive with quick performance disk brake kits but luckily my boy Kyle was able to get the shafts turned down for me thos evening🤘🏻
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Rear ends in
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So subtle differences got me, i didnt think anything of the clutch cables being quite different... the jimny cable is flush at the bulkhead allowing the pedal to return fully. So i went and looked at the sami and the pedals are completely different. So i got the hacksaw and cut the nub off. I also came to find the slave end was different as well. So nothing but wasted time. But the motor mount was the perfect spot to put it using the samurai cable. Not a necessary change but jimny ones are unobtanium in the us so i want one i can get on scamazon prime
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No more ****ing green engine bay so glad my paint finally showed up, as did the coilovers still waiting on the rear shocks from accutune
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Bonus picture of the yj in some super ****ty wet snow lastnight😂
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Pretty much down to shock tower gussets and painting the front section of frame/front bumper and then it's just final assembly and plumbing. Ended up going with a centerforce clutch which should be here tomorrow. And should hold up better to the tdi torque.
 
Well nothing fun lately but lots of finish welding, painting and reassembly. Went for a cruise with buddy dog in the clapper xj too also if you need to make a steering shaft for a toyota ifs box the splined drive of the box is the same as a standard saginaw box.
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So i used to always be a bomb can type of guy, but lately i realized you can paint everything on a rig for around $100 and have plenty left over for the next project. I mix rustoleum oil based paint 4:2:1 paint, acetone, hardener with a $30 amazon m18 paint gun. You can use a hobofreight $17 gun and get slightly better results but for axles frames skid plates etc this is an awesome cheap and extremely durable uv stable option. Ive used chassis saver and por15 and the rustoleum ****s on them over time. And cost for coverage is hard to beat. I dont use a paint booth or anything just pipe stands and on a cool day like this a smudge pot just ripping.
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cadman929 said:
So i used to always be a bomb can type of guy, but lately i realized you can paint everything on a rig for around $100 and have plenty left over for the next project. I mix rustoleum oil based paint 4:2:1 paint, acetone, hardener with a $30 amazon m18 paint gun. You can use a hobofreight $17 gun and get slightly better results but for axles frames skid plates etc this is an awesome cheap and extremely durable uv stable option. Ive used chassis saver and por15 and the rustoleum ****s on them over time. And cost for coverage is hard to beat. I dont use a paint booth or anything just pipe stands and on a cool day like this a smudge pot just ripping.
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today I learned there are battery operated spray guns!
 
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abrogate said:
today I learned there are battery operated sPray guns!
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They were 35$ when i got this one a year ago. I got it just because **** it why not i was curious😂 honestly they work pretty good for what they are ive never taken it apart to clean it i just run solvent through it and it always works and sprays nice the next time
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How much paint will it do on one battery?
 
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So decided to **** with belt routing real quick before i do the timing belt. And by no means is this a new routing to run power steering and alternator on an alh. But most guys make a slotted flat bar with a carrage bolt or standard bolt and theres no good way to adjust the belt. Well cue an xj belt adjuster hacked down. Should work good but sadly wont know until after i do my timing belt job
 
Nice to see this. Like your choices so far
little useless trivia about them. New in Japan they are linked and coils, except for export to ASIA, everything for export has leafs.
They stuff LC80's under them.
 
rockmup said:
Nice to see this. Like your choices so far
little useless trivia about them. New in Japan they are linked and coils, except for export to ASIA, everything for export has leafs.
They stuff LC80's under them.
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Yup this was radius arm coil spring front/rear with a highpinion front like a tiny lc80 clone. Super cool little axles my buddy is using them to build a kids buggy for his son.
 
Well been a good few days even though i didnt get much done but my boy kyle helped me get the motor in and mated up so i didnt scratch up everything😂 im honestly pretty i guess disappointed in the fitment of the acme adapter. Even with the thinnest nuts i have im going to have to grind out a lot more on the right side. Also it's bud dogs birthday so hes pooped after a day of adventures😂
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I've got the Acme TDI/R150 adapter. Not super impressed with it either. Looking at ways to get rid of it.
 
bdkw1 said:
I've got the Acme TDI/R150 adapter. Not super impressed with it either. Looking at ways to get rid of it.
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From looking into putting a tdi in my 82 toyota pickup with a w56 i think the nwfab adapters are the best you can buy followed by dcs. The acme adapter works but all the holes for the transmission bellhousing are slightly off
 
cadman929 said:
From looking into putting a tdi in my 82 toyota pickup with a w56 i think the nwfab adapters are the best you can buy followed by dcs. The acme adapter works but all the holes for the transmission bellhousing are slightly off
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The nwf one is nice as is the DCS one. Both take up more real-estate than I like. Going to make an adapter bell housing, way less bolts and bull****.
 
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bdkw1 said:
The nwf one is nice as is the design one. Both take up more real-estate than I like. Going to make an adapter bell housing, way less bolts and bull****.
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I think my biggest thing about the nwfab ones is theyre clockable and that could help tons for acessory fitment especially if youre trying to keep ac
 
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