Build UC Motorsports #680

what are the chances you could go to a midplate or head mounts?
The Jimmys chassis is made for that. Several of them that I can think of have a mid mount that hangs the engine from the dash bar.

Our tiny little JHF chassis I can’t see a way. The bellhousing is so far back it’s between the knees of the occupants
 
Probably no way to tell if shocks were properly bled previously. You have 2 options, hire only the best names in shock servicing or do it yourself. With confidence I say you can do the job better than 90% of the ******s who take your money and call themselves shock tuners. It’s an art and some science but mostly it’s attention to detail that matters in a quality shock prep.
 
common problem on jimmys chassis, the mounts cantilever out from the tube spreading the chassis. the spec chassis were constantly having this issue.

you got any pictures of the chassis without the motor showing the mounts?

edit : found this one, there is no vertical tie in and that is a large span.
1757291039326.png
Yep!

I already had to repair the welds on theses tubes, also plated it in, but its not a good a adding another vertical tube. It will be hard to package another tube. A motor plate or a more mounts on the back of the heads will be easier, next time I pull the engine I'll note how much clearance I need to get the engine/trans out and add more mounts.

1757456254802.png


common problem on jimmys chassis, the mounts cantilever out from the tube spreading the chassis. the spec chassis were constantly having this issue.

you got any pictures of the chassis without the motor showing the mounts?

edit : found this one, there is no vertical tie in and that is a large span.
1757291039326.png

On dad’s car with the aluminum Windsors in them. We switched to ARP studs and nuts. Cross drilled the tips of the studs. And use tie wire on the studs after the nuts are torqued down. The tire wire stops the nuts from coming off if they come loose, and stops the studs from turning at all if anything comes loose. The one thing I like better about an LS than the SBF is the 4 motor mount bosses per side instead of two.
That's a good idea! I'll replace these with studs and learn to tie wire.
 
Congrats on the arrival of the new additions x2! Those first few weeks are rough, especially x2, but rewarding too.
 
common problem on jimmys chassis, the mounts cantilever out from the tube spreading the chassis. the spec chassis were constantly having this issue.

you got any pictures of the chassis without the motor showing the mounts?

edit : found this one, there is no vertical tie in and that is a large span.
Was there a fix for this on the spec/trail chassis? if so what was it?
 
On dad’s car with the aluminum Windsors in them. We switched to ARP studs and nuts. Cross drilled the tips of the studs. And use tie wire on the studs after the nuts are torqued down. The tire wire stops the nuts from coming off if they come loose, and stops the studs from turning at all if anything comes loose. The one thing I like better about an LS than the SBF is the 4 motor mount bosses per side instead of two.
JR4X Could you point me in the right direction on this? All my searches are turning up a the stud for: ARP Outer Main Stud Small Block Chevy, 4-Bolt Main, Part Number: 070-AP2.750-1LB.

Which appears to be 2.75" long and seems like it the shank of the stud would be too long.

Was there a fix for this on the spec/trail chassis? if so what was it?
I gusseted mine. But the correct fix would be to hang the motor on a mid plate, or add a vertical tube supporting the tube that holds the bushing, however this would be extremely challenging with most headers.

Next time I pull the motor out and take the car down to a bare chassis I'll be figuring out adding a mid-plate.

IMG_6248.JPEG

Also found the transfer case support bracket had a good crack in it.

I drew up and ordered some laser cut false floor broads in an attempt to help keep myself and my codriver more comfortable.
IMG_6139.JPEG

Learned the hard way that 2:00am after feeding a baby and unable to fall back asleep might not be the best time of day to make a CAD drawing and place the order.... :confused::homer:
IMG_6140.JPEG
 
Slowly chipping away at re-assembly. Did make the decision to haul it out to KOH when I go to pit for a friend to get some test miles in. I'll have to pick up the pace to make that happen.

I was able to get to studs in the bolt instead of bolts. Unfornately the ARP studs I had found had too long of a shank. So I used a set of Grade 8 studs. Its still an improvement and the shank of the studs fits a lot tighter that the full thread bolts in the holes in my mounts. I am hopefully that this will be a big improvement.
IMG_6391.JPEG
IMG_6393.JPEG


Access is very tight so I haven't drilled the studs and safety wired yet. Frankly I think I might might until I pull the motor again to do so.

Got a new standoff panel for the drive foot well.
IMG_6378.JPEG

Still need to come up with a mounting strategy for it.

Had a Harbor Freight flavored motivator give up...

IMG_6390.JPEG


Axles are under the chassis again!
IMG_6400.JPEG
 
JR4X Could you point me in the right direction on this? All my searches are turning up a the stud for: ARP Outer Main Stud Small Block Chevy, 4-Bolt Main, Part Number: 070-AP2.750-1LB.

Which appears to be 2.75" long and seems like it the shank of the stud would be too long.


I gusseted mine. But the correct fix would be to hang the motor on a mid plate, or add a vertical tube supporting the tube that holds the bushing, however this would be extremely challenging with most headers.

Next time I pull the motor out and take the car down to a bare chassis I'll be figuring out adding a mid-plate.

IMG_6248.JPEG

Also found the transfer case support bracket had a good crack in it.

I drew up and ordered some laser cut false floor broads in an attempt to help keep myself and my codriver more comfortable.
IMG_6139.JPEG

Learned the hard way that 2:00am after feeding a baby and unable to fall back asleep might not be the best time of day to make a CAD drawing and place the order.... :confused::homer:
IMG_6140.JPEG
Who did the laser/dimple work?
 
Sorry Hatz33

I was going to look for the studs dad keeps around but I never remembered to look.
No worries, y'all have a lot going on with prep and the transmission swap!
 
looks like you will have company out there this year. cool beans
1767793766553.png
Yep! I won't be racing the EMC this year, instead just going to Johnson Valley for the couple days of the desert challenge racing with Nate in the 1400 class.

Even with the in-laws helping I just can't justify the two and half weeks away from home with the couple month old twins.

Planning to take the car out to get some more shock tuning in and have fun.
 
I had a trip out to Hammers with mixed results.

On one hand my friend, who was racing his 4 Runner in the 1400 class for the first time since it was practically totaled in the Baja 1000 two years age had a great race finishing 5th in the class after completing a clean, albeit slow race.
624697956_26590505367219465_5794021347015945959_n.jpg
623399542_26590502893886379_5515318231753809355_n.jpg



My normal co-driver Aaron navigated for him and by the end of the race Aaron had coached him a bit and according to the splits provided by Hammer King they improved their pace by ~30%.

IMG_6470.JPEG


Then my car decided to act up on the second day losing the transmission on the way out to a section of whoops for shock tuning. The sliver lining was we did get some seat time the day before pre-running the desert loop and running Spooners and Outer limits.
IMG_8026.JPEG

IMG_8029.JPEG

IMG_8032.JPEG


Right now, the car has no forward or reverse drive.

As such I am no longer planning on racing Moab as I just don’t think I’ll have enough time to get the transmission pulled, repaired, and re-installed. Really disappointed about it but Montana is still a possibility.

I am currently thinking about the following options:
  1. Pull transmission, get it repaired, reinstall and race Montana (or another race). Then do a complete prep (tear down to the frame) go to Hammers 27.
  2. Do a complete prep (tear down to the frame), repair transmission, reassemble, race Montana ( or another race), light prep and go to Hammers 27.
  3. Do a complete prep (tear down to the frame), repair transmission, reassemble, find somewhere to get test miles in, light prep go to Hammers 27.

Lastly I need to decide on what to do with the transmission. This is the second time the TH400 has failed. It was originally built by Jimmy’s and lasted for multiple testing/tuning trips, two Hammers, two season races in Oklahoma, and part of V2R. I had it rebuilt by a local shop who appears to do a lot of automatics for tow rigs and drag cars. This time it lasted for a pre-run at Hammers, ½ of a EMC race, Area BFE, and a little bit of pre-running at Hammers. I wasn’t impressed with the local shops customer service and communication on what failed/why. Torn between finding another local shop ( I have one recommended that is ~1 ½ hours north by another team) and just learning how to rebuild it myself…..Or going to a 4L80….
 
I had a trip out to Hammers with mixed results.

On one hand my friend, who was racing his 4 Runner in the 1400 class for the first time since it was practically totaled in the Baja 1000 two years age had a great race finishing 5th in the class after completing a clean, albeit slow race.
624697956_26590505367219465_5794021347015945959_n.jpg
623399542_26590502893886379_5515318231753809355_n.jpg



My normal co-driver Aaron navigated for him and by the end of the race Aaron had coached him a bit and according to the splits provided by Hammer King they improved their pace by ~30%.

IMG_6470.JPEG


Then my car decided to act up on the second day losing the transmission on the way out to a section of whoops for shock tuning. The sliver lining was we did get some seat time the day before pre-running the desert loop and running Spooners and Outer limits.
IMG_8026.JPEG

IMG_8029.JPEG

IMG_8032.JPEG


Right now, the car has no forward or reverse drive.

As such I am no longer planning on racing Moab as I just don’t think I’ll have enough time to get the transmission pulled, repaired, and re-installed. Really disappointed about it but Montana is still a possibility.

I am currently thinking about the following options:
  1. Pull transmission, get it repaired, reinstall and race Montana (or another race). Then do a complete prep (tear down to the frame) go to Hammers 27.
  2. Do a complete prep (tear down to the frame), repair transmission, reassemble, race Montana ( or another race), light prep and go to Hammers 27.
  3. Do a complete prep (tear down to the frame), repair transmission, reassemble, find somewhere to get test miles in, light prep go to Hammers 27.

Lastly I need to decide on what to do with the transmission. This is the second time the TH400 has failed. It was originally built by Jimmy’s and lasted for multiple testing/tuning trips, two Hammers, two season races in Oklahoma, and part of V2R. I had it rebuilt by a local shop who appears to do a lot of automatics for tow rigs and drag cars. This time it lasted for a pre-run at Hammers, ½ of a EMC race, Area BFE, and a little bit of pre-running at Hammers. I wasn’t impressed with the local shops customer service and communication on what failed/why. Torn between finding another local shop ( I have one recommended that is ~1 ½ hours north by another team) and just learning how to rebuild it myself…..Or going to a 4L80….
To the uneducated man that doesn’t know a lot about the differences between the two transmission why switch transmission cause then it’s like mounts and everything else move right just conversation
 
To the uneducated man that doesn’t know a lot about the differences between the two transmission why switch transmission cause then it’s like mounts and everything else move right just conversation
Right now with a 6500 rpm redline line and the 1:1 of the TH400 the top speed in high is 133 mph, I have only ever achieved ~105 mph before I run out of courage.

The benefit would be in low range as the current top speed is ~45 mph, with the over drive it would be ~60 MPH. Eliminating a lot of the need to switch between high a low at Hammers, and at races like BFE preventing me from running out of top end on the occasionally straights.

I think the TH400 and 4L80E are the two most common transmissions in Ultra 4 cars and generally well regarded strength wise.

I am still working on tracking down the cost of a new 4L80E vs a rebuild of my TH400.

But at my experience level upgrading to a 4L80E would probably help less than just getting seat time.
 
find a TH400 builder that other successful teams are using and spend the money, no prep and race montana. regroup for koh27.

EDIT - transmissions need to be gone through yearly

drag racings is not offroad racing.

4L80E is longer so it will domino effect getting into the car.
 
Last edited:
Easy choice. 4-speed manual with Brownie box to give extra gears when needed. :lmao:

Definitely see the benefits of changing to a 4L80E

I’d think sticking with TH400 (less overall charges) but with different builder and getting as much seat time would be your best options.
 
find a TH400 builder that other successful teams are using and spend the money, no prep and race montana. regroup for koh27.
 
find a TH400 builder that other successful teams are using and spend the money, no prep and race montana. regroup for koh27.

EDIT - transmissions need to be gone through yearly

drag racings is not offroad racing.

4L80E is longer so it will domino effect getting into the car.

find a TH400 builder that other successful teams are using and spend the money, no prep and race montana. regroup for koh27.

Y'all are right.

Another team (they finished EMC in 4800 this year, but with a 4L80e) in the front range recommended a builder about ~2 hours drive north of me.
 
Y'all are right.

Another team (they finished EMC in 4800 this year, but with a 4L80e) in the front range recommended a builder about ~2 hours drive north of me.
Might look over this thread. Seems like there are 3 or 4 well regarded builders for TH400s for around ~$3K

 
Sean thanks for pointing out that thread.

I have an aversion to shipping my transmission off, part of it is even the well know shops can't seem to return emails, send shipping tags when trying to send them a unit to be rebuilt....

The is a shop ~2 hours north of me that has done transmissions for other teams in front range. The owner also teaches at a technical college and is willing to let be be there for the teardown, ask questions, discuss failure mechanisms and how to address them. I'll be taking the trans there later this month. Hopefully I learn something!


Also going to get a lower stall converter.

Plan is to to race Montana then strip the car to a bare chassis and do a full prep for Hammers 2027.
 
Sean thanks for pointing out that thread.

I have an aversion to shipping my transmission off, part of it is even the well know shops can't seem to return emails, send shipping tags when trying to send them a unit to be rebuilt....

The is a shop ~2 hours north of me that has done transmissions for other teams in front range. The owner also teaches at a technical college and is willing to let be be there for the teardown, ask questions, discuss failure mechanisms and how to address them. I'll be taking the trans there later this month. Hopefully I learn something!


Also going to get a lower stall converter.

Plan is to to race Montana then strip the car to a bare chassis and do a full prep for Hammers 2027.
I'm in a boat where I need whole transmissions....so I was just planning to pay core charges and have the units shipped. I haven't moved forward as I'm still rethinking LS/TH400/Hero 3 spds for the drivetrains considering that doesn't make much sense in 4WS portal cars for crawling other than being beef (and having the accompanying weight penalty) and not really having to worry about trans/tcase failures (oiling issues in the LSXs is another story).
 
Top Back Refresh