Post up your latest new or used tool purchases

Landslide said:
Sketchy is sketchy and I ain’t afraid to call it out. I’m coming in at it like :eek: it would fail on me if I did that. He’s probably more than likely ok with it, but I would maintain a clear boundary around it juuuuust in case.
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For sure, I wouldn’t recommend standing directly below it, but I wouldn’t get directly underneath anything on a hoist for really any reason, would you?

In case anyone is curious about the pull out rating of the lags:

300lbs per inch of thread, and I had at least 4” (can’t remember if they were fully threaded or not). So, 1200lbs, per lag. 1 bolt could hold that engine no prob.
 

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cj3a said:
I like the proof of design Mitnz has shown. I the only change I would have made is lags. I would have hung it from the top of the ceiling joists with thread rod. Lumber likes to crack and split when it dries out.
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That is a good idea.
Above it is a bedroom, so, no real way to do that without pulling up carpet and cutting into the subfloor. This whole hoist situation was constructed for basically one task (and then later used to load some furniture into a truck, but, way lighter than the engine), so, not really worth it. But yeah for repeated use, that is a good idea.

I used a ratchet strap thrown over rafters at my current place last week to pull the head out of my jeep, and even that I was worried might have been a problem lol. Cracked and creak way more than the garage ceiling hoist did.
 

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It’s funny and ironic that the electric hoist was posted above. I messaged a kid on FBMP about one he listed last Friday. We were to meet sat but that didn’t work out. So I met him today and bought it. Gonna use it in my machine shop to lift heavy stuff in there like chucks and whatnot. I have access to a small trolly beam setup but it’s overkill for what I need. So, I may possibly barrow the unistrut setup posted above too. I have the strut in stock just need the dolly setup for it. I may double it all up because… Nazi :laughing: :flipoff2:
It ain’t like I’ll be lifting full dressed engines with it :laughing:
IMG_2945.jpeg
 
Mittnz said:
For sure, I wouldn’t recommend standing directly below it, but I wouldn’t get directly underneath anything on a hoist for really any reason, would you?

In case anyone is curious about the pull out rating of the lags:

300lbs per inch of thread, and I had at least 4” (can’t remember if they were fully threaded or not). So, 1200lbs, per lag. 1 bolt could hold that engine no prob.
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No I typically don’t but there are occasions when Mr Danger calls and you end up pushing the safety bar out of the way.
 
Mittnz said:
That is a good idea.
Above it is a bedroom, so, no real way to do that without pulling up carpet and cutting into the subfloor. This whole hoist situation was constructed for basically one task (and then later used to load some furniture into a truck, but, way lighter than the engine), so, not really worth it. But yeah for repeated use, that is a good idea.

I used a ratchet strap thrown over rafters at my current place last week to pull the head out of my jeep, and even that I was worried might have been a problem lol. Cracked and creak way more than the garage ceiling hoist did.
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I would’ve swapped your ratchet over to the engine side so that way you’re not trying to rape your strap over the rafter. It’ll just lift the head with no issues or friction then.
 
Mittnz said:
I used a ratchet strap thrown over rafters at my current place last week to pull the head out of my jeep, and even that I was worried might have been a problem lol. Cracked and creak way more than the garage ceiling hoist did.
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If you used the strap straight to the rafter, rather than up and over it, you would have cut the force the rafter saw in 1/2 (ignoring friction).

Like this:
1768258903337.png


Also this:
Landslide said:
I would’ve swapped your ratchet over to the engine side so that way you’re not trying to rape your strap over the rafter. It’ll just lift the head with no issues or friction then.
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The friction of the strap moving over the top also increased the needed pulling force.
 
I bought 2/3 of a gantry crane over the weekend. The guy said his dad used it for bulldozers.
The bases are around 90" high by about 58" wide, made from ~5.5" OD and ~4" OD. And the upper parts are about 96", made from ~4.5" OD.
Now I just need to figure out what size beam to go on top of them.
DSCF0729.JPG
 
Landslide said:
I have the strut in stock just need the dolly setup for it.
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I made some a few months back outta some 5/8" alu plate and some roller skate bearings and 5/16" roll pins
if you're buying roll pins, don't buy the ones that fit in the channel, buy the next longer size and grind the ends down because otherwise the bearings are barely held because the ends of the roll pins are tapered for easy installation
 
Yarz said:
I bought 2/3 of a gantry crane over the weekend. The guy said his dad used it for bulldozers.
The bases are around 90" high by about 58" wide, made from ~5.5" OD and ~4" OD. And the upper parts are about 96", made from ~4.5" OD.
Now I just need to figure out what size beam to go on top of them.
DSCF0729.JPG
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You're saying that the long sticks with the holes in them are 8 feet long? Something seems way off with this pic.

Looks like they're laying in a tire track on some cracked pavement and from the pic they look about 3 feet long.
How'd ya take the picture? Standing on top of a 12 foot stepladder?
 
Yarz said:
I bought 2/3 of a gantry crane over the weekend. The guy said his dad used it for bulldozers.
The bases are around 90" high by about 58" wide, made from ~5.5" OD and ~4" OD. And the upper parts are about 96", made from ~4.5" OD.
Now I just need to figure out what size beam to go on top of them.
DSCF0729.JPG
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**** yeah that's awesome.

You're gonna want a variety of beams. Big ones for big **** and long spans, small ones for portability and ease of assembly.

The lightest 6" wide flange beam is a damn good one for general purpose shop use since a 12-15 footer is still one man portable but it'll still hold a couple tons in the middle no questions at that length.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
You're saying that the long sticks with the holes in them are 8 feet long? Something seems way off with this pic.

Looks like they're laying in a tire track on some cracked pavement and from the pic they look about 3 feet long.
How'd ya take the picture? Standing on top of a 12 foot stepladder?
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the middle isn't the rut, the cracked sections to both sides are the tire ruts

4.5" dia means 4" IPS
 
[486] said:
the middle isn't the rut, the cracked sections to both sides are the tire ruts

4.5" dia means 4" IPS
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Ahh, that's funny. I see it now. Brain couldn't process it.

Still, the pic must have been taken from upstairs window? (probably just my brain again)
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
You're saying that the long sticks with the holes in them are 8 feet long? Something seems way off with this pic.

Looks like they're laying in a tire track on some cracked pavement and from the pic they look about 3 feet long.
How'd ya take the picture? Standing on top of a 12 foot stepladder?
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Correct, 8' pieces. Close - I was standing on top of the ladder rack on my pickup, trying to get it all in the picture. I think I took a picture with it all still in the bed of my truck if you want that for scale.

arse_sidewards said:
**** yeah that's awesome.

You're gonna want a variety of beams. Big ones for big **** and long spans, small ones for portability and ease of assembly.

The lightest 6" wide flange beam is a damn good one for general purpose shop use since a 12-15 footer is still one man portable but it'll still hold a couple tons in the middle no questions at that length.
Click to expand...

I never thought about multiple size beams. I just planned to see what sizes some commercially made ones used, and then see what I could find locally. That's good to know a 6" will probably serve me very well. That should open up more options on FBMP/Craigslist.

[486] said:
the middle isn't the rut, the cracked sections to both sides are the tire ruts

4.5" dia means 4" IPS
Click to expand...

You're correct, the tire ruts are to the sides - that is my ****ty asphalt driveway, one vehicle wide at that point.
I didn't know if it was pipe or tube. That's why I just listed the OD
 
Yarz said:
If you used the strap straight to the rafter, rather than up and over it, you would have cut the force the rafter saw in 1/2 (ignoring friction).

Like this:
1768258903337.png


Also this:


The friction of the strap moving over the top also increased the needed pulling force.
Click to expand...
I bought a bolt-on D-ring from harbor freight the other day, for when I use this again. The friction from the strap definitely was a bitch, it pulled itself into a joint and got wedged in there.

IMG_7336.webp


I’m gonna put one of these up there on the underside of that beam, and essentially snatch block it.

Now that I think about it, I have a snatch block and other recovery stuff literally IN the jeep pictured, I probably should have thought that out a little more.
 
TrikeKid said:
Grabbed a couple TMR 2-4-6 block kits. They're not machinist perfect but plenty good enough for what I'm doing. Plus they've got 5/8 holes for clamps and stuff.

PXL_20260113_233147395.jpg
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Damn, gorgeous table.

Here are the cut files for a vice-mount, as well as a 4’x4’ fixture table and different fab blocks etc, that I bought last year when I was planning out my table, if you or anyone want them. Anyone with a CNC table can cut them from whatever gauge steel you want, and you’re set.

IMG_7337.webp
 

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Mittnz said:
I bought a bolt-on D-ring from harbor freight the other day, for when I use this again. The friction from the strap definitely was a bitch, it pulled itself into a joint and got wedged in there.

IMG_7336.webp


I’m gonna put one of these up there on the underside of that beam, and essentially snatch block it.

Now that I think about it, I have a snatch block and other recovery stuff literally IN the jeep pictured, I probably should have thought that out a little more.
Click to expand...

Actually, seeing this reminds me. You guys ever try powder coating?

Another recent garage purchase:
$65 open box return XL countertop pizza oven. I use it for powder coating anything under 16x12x12.

This was the first thing I ever powder coated, a while back. Came out pretty great, other than the scuffing on the hook.

I recently wire wheeled my sway bar arms, powder coated them black, got new stickers from Currie for a couple bucks, they look brand new!

Harbor Freight powder coat gun, not a bad buy. Beats waiting for the powder coat guy and having to drive 45 mins to pick them up. Although, for anything fancy like pearl etc, I’d leave it to the pros.
 

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