What did you do to your GM today?

wheel bearing action on the old half ton. Air chisel came in handy.
 

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Drive side ball joints. After replacing the shocks there was still a rattling in the floor boards. It would happen when I hit bumps and greasing it made it go away.
Upper ball joint was also kind of wonky. These are easily 100,000 miles old so I can't say too many bad things about Moog. I replace them with 'made in USA' Moog parts. Tomorrow or Sunday will be the passenger side.

Not fun. Rounded off a bolt for the hub so THAT is going to suck to replace in the future. Might have to do idler and pitman arm in the near future. At least these little changes have made the steering feel tighter.
 
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Made my oldest son take out a 14 bolt from an old truck trailer to put under an 84 cucv I took the axles from. He wants to drive the cucv. Taught him the basics of using a torch.
I used the torch while it was out,to heat up an exhaust manifold to get 2 stuck studs out of 1 side of another truck I'm swapping an engine and trans into.. the other one broke.(of course)
 
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Did the oil changes on the burb, pickup and ****buru that i was supposed to do yesterday.
But i got mad that the tahoe was still on the concrete so i spent that time yanking the wiring for the bose stereo stuff and the cab harness for the doors.

Also Rotated the tires on the burb and swapped out the streeters for some better snow/muds for winter on the 2500.
 
The daily Yukon has a knock that’s progressively getting worse. Started with only after idling for extended periods to short periods of idle and I’ve noticed it while driving with the windows down. Oil pressure is solid 40psi. Decided I’d throw a high volume pump in it, change the cam retainer plate and new gaskets for it all and check the rod bearings. Full disassembly shows it’s been neglected on oil changes but the rod bearings look fine. Spent most of the time cleaning sludge out of all the nooks and crannies.
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Messed with the poly fuel lines some more, I’m probably being paranoid but I wish they were farther from header/downpipe. Have them in spiral wrap covered with chitanium heat sleeve.
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Pulled transfercase to do pump rub fix. Figured I may as well do u joints, confused as hell on what joints I need. If I squeeze joint I can get 1415 measurement, relaxed it measures 1410. It is an AAM shaft.
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Cut a coil off the front to lower it about 1.5”, fixed my lack of caster and took it for a spin. Feels good, steers a little better. This cool weather doesn’t help that I think I’m blowing thru my clutch. Boost comes in and it feels good then kinda plateaus. I’ve got a ceramic twin disc for it but not sure how race car(ish) it’s gonna be.
 

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Thought I was going to get away with just a pump rub fix, decided to order a rear case half as the output shaft snap ring has really worn away at the case causing some slop back and forth. Pretty sad design, truck only has 70k on it.
 
Got the drag link level on the stock push/pull steering with dropped pitman, arm block, and Dodge arm from Grendel (Thanks!). 6" springs with zero rate and ORD shackles...had to shorten up the drag link quite a bit to accommodate moving the axle forward an inch and the forward position of the Dodge arm.

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Rocktonka said:
Got the drag link level on the stock push/pull steering with dropped pitman, arm block, and Dodge arm from Grendel (Thanks!). 6" springs with zero rate and ORD shackles...had to shorten up the drag link quite a bit to accommodate moving the axle forward an inch and the forward position of the Dodge arm.

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So you said you were gona need to chop the arm up, did you?
 
Oil lines are in, motor mounts have a little left so saving the new ones.
267k of gunk and Elko tailings dust slowly getting cleaned up.
Front end is greased and good to go.
Could use some help picking a cam and what goes with. Towing. 6.0, 4l80, 11.5 411 gov.
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