Build KMH Motorsport 4800 build

IMG_7701.jpeg
IMG_7702.jpeg
 
Shocks are here. Did not fully realize how huge a 3.0 Coilover really is :eek: (coke can for scale). Thinking about bending some 1.75 .120 DOM that I have laying around into some hoops to come off the side of the nodes.
 
are those ibps?


wait until you get the springs in your hand. buy a long heavy spring to use for mockup, the od will be 5” if not more.
 
mobil1syn said:
are those ibps?


wait until you get the springs in your hand. buy a long heavy spring to use for mockup, the od will be 5” if not more.
Click to expand...
Yup. 14in MBRs from ADS. Should be able to hit some decent whoops.
 
Blase said:
Can you not put the mount in the Node on the chassis? That would be the best based on the chassis design.
Click to expand...
That is the plan, I have to come off of the node with something to actually mount the shock to.
 
front link mounts are burned in (minus plating on the lowers) and the 4 links and tie rods are in! Thanks to the boys at Wide Open Designs for the links! super beefy and always great to deal with!

Decided to just accept the little bit of up travel loss with the ram position and kept the tube where it is on the axle and mounted the ram as low as we could get it.

Next up is finalizing the shock mounts up front, and getting bump stops mounted.

Also seen in the photos is one of the seats, so after the front suspension is finished and while we wait on the trailing arms for the rear we should be able to get a jump start on the interior bits.

Shes shaping up!
 
Been a busy week. We used a set of the TMR customs lower shock mounts and trimmed them to fit on the 2in tubes for the upper shock mounts. Worked really well and saved some fab time on making our own mounts. Still plan to gusset it more, but for now it is good to go.

TMR customs also makes a great mount for the Jeep Speed fuel cell. Welded it up and set it on the tubes. It has a way to bolt to the chassis, but I opted to just weld straight to the tubes for similpicty and because I dont anticpate changing the cell out (the cell is still removable, but the mount is fixed)

Got a huge Griffin Rad from Wide Open Deigns as well as a mount from them. Welded the top tab to the tubes and tied to bottom intot the fuel cell mount. It will still need some more support from the back on the bottom, but I have to get the rear firewall sorted before I can work out where to attach it. It may also be worthwhile attaching to the rear shock mounts.
 
Last edited:
We got the drivetrain sitting on blocks in the chassis. Fits in here nicely. Only issue we are runnign into is mounting the Atlas. Currently have the top mount BKOR kit, but it hits my driver seat and sits above where bottom of the floor pan is.

How bad is it to mount the Atlas to the bottom of the chassis as oppsed to hanging it? everything is on bushsings and the bottom of this chassis is going to be solid with the skids welded straight to the tubes.
 
IMO its best mounted from the top but id say most mount from the bottom. If you take the current mount and move the bushing out wide right at the chassis that should help make a ton of room. Again IMO its best mounted from the top but I'd say far from a requirement to do so!
 
unfortunately I dont know if that will help. Im debating flipping the mount upside down and running bent tubes up to the the tubes I would top mount off of vs just mounting to the bottom of the chassis.
 
Without being there its really hard to say but it looks to me like there is room. Unbolt the BKOR mount. Reuse the bushing on the outer circled areas flush with the top of those bars (so they do not stick up. Then using the two holes circled in the center bolt on a new plate with bracing going down instead of up like the BKOR plate.....heck flip the BKOR mount over and bolt it back up for a starting point MAYBE. Now connect the bushings to the new low profile center plate. If you plan it right may even be able to use the new x member for mounting other things.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7829.jpeg
    IMG_7829.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 28
Blase said:
Without being there its really hard to say but it looks to me like there is room. Unbolt the BKOR mount. Reuse the bushing on the outer circled areas flush with the top of those bars (so they do not stick up. Then using the two holes circled in the center bolt on a new plate with bracing going down instead of up like the BKOR plate.....heck flip the BKOR mount over and bolt it back up for a starting point MAYBE. Now connect the bushings to the new low profile center plate. If you plan it right may even be able to use the new x member for mounting other things.
Click to expand...
Seems like the best solution just to ditch the BKOR mount altogether and built a different cross member that attaches at the outer tubes with the bushings where you have the ovals. The whole cross member needs removed to remove the t-case and or the trans out the top anyway, might as well give yourself the most clearance as possible and span the whole opening. You can make a low profile cross member that suspends the case from the billet adapter and you should be clear of the seats.
 
After a month we havent made much progress and my dad and I have both been busy, but I wanted to give an update on our plans for the car as we got some ideas from KOH this year. First and foremost we are both more hooked on racing than ever, but also that this is shaping up to be a competive car based on the cars we saw at hammers. We are going to try to make hammers 2027!

We are looking into the rookie program as neither of us have racing experience. Does anyone have experince with it? Is it worthwhile?


Our goal the first year is to finish dead last, but to cross the finish line nonetheless.



I am confident in out axles holding up to race abuse, although I may make it a project to design an adapter to run unit bearings on the front down the line for ease of maintence and race repairs.

Judging by the cars that were able to stay stable and avoid nose diving on the jumps we are for sure going to run a Bomber style tire carrier in the rear to balance the car.

After one of our buddies dealing with a failed alternator a dual battery setup where an alt battery can be switched on on the fly sounds like a good idea. I'm thinking mounting them at the rear of the chassis is the best bet for weight distrubution.

What is the go to tire for 4800/4500 class? the Nitto K specs are the 4400 go to from what I have hears. Is Nitto the best for DOT tires as well?

Thats it for now, but im sure more work will get done over the next few weeks.
 
I found this while looking into the KP knuckle to unit bearing:

www.hardlinecrawlers.com

Unit Bearing on kingpin knuckle

Was doing some maintenance to the rig and decided to test fit the pieces, since I had it apart. I didnt have the correct bolts/studs so ignore that part, but the dimensions seem to match up well. The slug and cap still need work to finish them out, but honestly that is the part most places...
www.hardlinecrawlers.com www.hardlinecrawlers.com

Does't look like they finished anything though. The printed mock up is on a BJ knuckle. It would be cool if you make something happen. I know there is the ECGS KP540 setup, but thats a whole different system.

Also found this, but haven't read it yet:

nc4x4.com

Kingpins and Unit bearings

In the interest of tech, I thought I might put some stuff here that I was looking into. Basically trying to figure out if you could update an older (kingpin) axle to run the newer unit bearings. From my research, the indexing size for 99-04 SD unit bearings in the same as the older spindles...
nc4x4.com nc4x4.com

What is the rookie program?
 
abrogate said:
I found this while looking into the KP knuckle to unit bearing:

www.hardlinecrawlers.com

Unit Bearing on kingpin knuckle

Was doing some maintenance to the rig and decided to test fit the pieces, since I had it apart. I didnt have the correct bolts/studs so ignore that part, but the dimensions seem to match up well. The slug and cap still need work to finish them out, but honestly that is the part most places...
www.hardlinecrawlers.com www.hardlinecrawlers.com

Does't look like they finished anything though. The printed mock up is on a BJ knuckle. It would be cool if you make something happen. I know there is the ECGS KP540 setup, but thats a whole different system.

Also found this, but haven't read it yet:

nc4x4.com

Kingpins and Unit bearings

In the interest of tech, I thought I might put some stuff here that I was looking into. Basically trying to figure out if you could update an older (kingpin) axle to run the newer unit bearings. From my research, the indexing size for 99-04 SD unit bearings in the same as the older spindles...
nc4x4.com nc4x4.com

What is the rookie program?
Click to expand...
yeah, i have seen where others have tried to do it. By the sound of it its hard to avoid a custom stub. Its just a thought for later on. for right now the goal is to get the car running and driving

Also IIRC the kp540 is still spindle and hub. The super kingpin and Crane magnum stuff is unit bearing though.

Has anyone designed a regular Kingpin knuckle that would take the 05+ unit bearings?
 
Last edited:
Yellow_99TJ said:
After one of our buddies dealing with a failed alternator a dual battery setup where an alt battery can be switched on on the fly sounds like a good idea. I'm thinking mounting them at the rear of the chassis is the best bet for weight distrubution.
Click to expand...

race cars eat up a lot of amperage, do the math and buy accordingly. i bet his alternator was undersized and thats why it failed.

you could run dual alternators.

edit : also make sure you are over spinning it
 
Last edited:
Quick update on the car. We got the rear link mounts in and the suspension mocked up thanks to some borrowed upper links from my jeep.

Looking at how to mount the coilovers now and it looks like a bar from the rear firewall node back to the outer tube will work well.

Without the shocks in it’s hard to say for sure on travel, but it’s looking like 24in total with about 10.5 up travel at ride height is where it will sit.

With the accessories on the front of the engine the Trans Cooler we have won’t work, so I’m thinking of mounting it behind the rad somewhere. Any suggestions are welcome.
 
Use a heat exchanger for the trans. No fan to wire and no fins to clog up with mud.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh