So you’re saying if you had stayed in Commiefornia your truck would have survivedFwiw, it was also sitting for a week or so, not just overnight, so it was definitely cold.
No idea if that did it, but pretty dumb of me if that's the case.
-
Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
-
We're moving data around, images may be off/on over the next few hours. Nothing is lost aaand no ... Nothing will Change Fo2
6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods
- Thread starter zxkevinxz
- Start date
Snowy
Well-known member
Fwiw, it was also sitting for a week or so, not just overnight, so it was definitely cold.
No idea if that did it, but pretty dumb of me if that's the case.
I’d almost guarantee that is the root case of your bottom end failure. 15w-40 is for 20* temps or higher per Ford.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
So you’re saying if you had stayed in Commiefornia your truck would have survived
It probably would have burned up, just in a different way
I’d almost guarantee that is the root case of your bottom end failure. 15w-40 is for 20* temps or higher per Ford.
We run 7 6.7 fords and 6 newer duramax's plus a bunch of other diesels on 15w40 all year. No issues so far, but usually not ran that cold with no block heater I guess.
Snowy
Well-known member
It probably would have burned up, just in a different way
We run 7 6.7 fords and 6 newer duramax's plus a bunch of other diesels on 15w40 all year. No issues so far, but usually not ran that cold with no block heater I guess.
I personally would not run it year round. Even Cummins specs a lighter weight oil below zero with a strongly worded callout.
The ISL and ISX work trucks get 10w-30 per Cummins for our region. Northern IL.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I personally would not run it year round. Even Cummins specs a lighter weight oil below zero with a strongly worded callout.
The ISL and ISX work trucks get 10w-30 per Cummins for our region. Northern IL.
Doesn't matter to me since it's gone.
Like I said, we have a fleet of newer pick up diesels all running it year round. Most winter days are more like 15-25*f. Below zero days are rare and usually if it's supposed to - 10* or lower we don't go in.
My work has a hard enough time with maintenance, no way they would keep up with 2 different oils
speed bump
Red Skull
I've started mine dozens of times at -20°F since it's the most reliable starting rig I have when it's cold but I pretty much run 5-40 or 10-30.
djljeep
Well-known member
Mine has had no shortage of cold starts in sub zero weather and I rarely if ever plug it in, with 286k on the clock. That being said I just took an oil sample yesterday because I'm suspicious that the only engine related issue the truck has had has been the original turbo, followed by the ****ty reman that failed shortly therafter.
Another question - I just acquired a 33' Goose trailer. My intent is to either move two Jeeps or my SnoCat plus a Jeep. There are a couple load combinations that I believe will put me right at max ratings all around, so needless to say I've been searching for the best Air-Bag/Goose Hitch combo. Thoughts? Right now my thought is to go B&W Hitch with Firestone bags.
Another question - I just acquired a 33' Goose trailer. My intent is to either move two Jeeps or my SnoCat plus a Jeep. There are a couple load combinations that I believe will put me right at max ratings all around, so needless to say I've been searching for the best Air-Bag/Goose Hitch combo. Thoughts? Right now my thought is to go B&W Hitch with Firestone bags.
About to crack 130k
Consistently now on cold starts, the first one or two shifts flare. I had transmission issues early on, still under warranty, so I think fluid is about 90k miles old (have to check my log).
Should I just go straight to a drain and fill with filter replacement? I'd just rather not pay dealer diagnostic time and wait the eternity it takes them to get through it... but don't want to smoke a trans being dumb.
I figured if it didn't fail after the nuclear temps at 40k miles prompting the warranty service that it would be fine.
Consistently now on cold starts, the first one or two shifts flare. I had transmission issues early on, still under warranty, so I think fluid is about 90k miles old (have to check my log).
Should I just go straight to a drain and fill with filter replacement? I'd just rather not pay dealer diagnostic time and wait the eternity it takes them to get through it... but don't want to smoke a trans being dumb.
I figured if it didn't fail after the nuclear temps at 40k miles prompting the warranty service that it would be fine.
djljeep
Well-known member
mine has done that since like 200k, and I'm about to hit 296 ish. Every now and again when its cold it will straight up not make the 1-2 or 2-3 shift until I back out of it, and very occasionally it'll shift out of gear and not into the next one, but generally only on the hill pulling out of my driveway, so its not a big hinderance, and it hasn't gotten any worse in a long time, although I'd like to know the fix.
In other news, I know they are gimmicky but given the miles on this motor and the lack of internal work its had done (as in nothing other than oil changes and turbos...) I've done blackstone for the last two oil changes. Anybody more in tune with the chemistry see anything concerning here?
In other news, I know they are gimmicky but given the miles on this motor and the lack of internal work its had done (as in nothing other than oil changes and turbos...) I've done blackstone for the last two oil changes. Anybody more in tune with the chemistry see anything concerning here?
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Did you run the same oil for both changes?
djljeep
Well-known member
No. I generally always run 5W-40 T6 which is what the second one was. Sometimes I step it back to 15-40. The first one was whatever my buddies shop has in his bulk tank as the truck was there for other work.
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Without running the same oil consistently you're not going to catch any little changes on a used oil analysis. I agree with the lab that those numbers don't show anything concerning.
speed bump
Red Skull
MIne has done that for about 20k miles. I'm reasonably convinced it's eventually going to die but also not convinced a solenoid pack will fix it. I have a couple grand set aside in case it does go.
I'm dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow... no time to do it myself these days. I'll let you know if a drain & fill + filter change does anything.
mine has done that since like 200k, and I'm about to hit 296 ish. Every now and again when its cold it will straight up not make the 1-2 or 2-3 shift until I back out of it, and very occasionally it'll shift out of gear and not into the next one, but generally only on the hill pulling out of my driveway, so its not a big hinderance, and it hasn't gotten any worse in a long time, although I'd like to know the fix.
In other news, I know they are gimmicky but given the miles on this motor and the lack of internal work its had done (as in nothing other than oil changes and turbos...) I've done blackstone for the last two oil changes. Anybody more in tune with the chemistry see anything concerning here?
Your results make me concerned about my fuel dilution even moreMy fuel dilution crept up. When they mention chromium, are they saying it’s maybe coming from cylinder wall wear due to the rings sticking?
What's your use like? Any extended idling? Highway, city, towing?
MuntCuffin
Upgrayedded user
6r140 or the 10 speed?
My 6r does that on the 2-3 upshift. I have a sonnax zip kit collecting dust waiting on time to open up to throw it in. Was gonna replace all the solenoids and the harness while I had it apart.
10 speed
I chickened out at the dealer. Over $400 for drain and fill with filter. Over $800 for the flush.
It pains me. I just don’t have the time to do as much myself any more, but hate the price for someone else.
djljeep
Well-known member
Truck was deleted until recently. That first sample was the last oil change deleted, and the second one is the first interval with the DPF installed again.Your results make me concerned about my fuel dilution even more
What's your use like? Any extended idling? Highway, city, towing?
Most of the usage is my 35 mile commute one way empty on backroads, with towing every few weekends, most recently with a 33ft Goose trailer. I used to idle it a lot when it was deleted, but not like a company truck or anything. Now I try to limit it, but not unusual to idle 30 minutes a day or so for phone calls. Also does a fair bit of plowing in the winter. So far from hot shotting it, but also not suburban soccer mom duty either.
Sounds fairly similar to my use case, other than deleted part.
I wonder if your fuel dilution will creep up with the regen occurring now. I am assuming that’s what’s occurring with mine.
djljeep
Well-known member
That does lead me to another question for the class.... I reinstalled the DPF and the DEF/SCR systems, including a new DEF pump and heater, and I can hear the DEF pump run so I know its doing something. That being said, I haven't got a add DEF warning yet. I went 5-6k with 3.5 or so gallons in the tank because I screwed up the filler neck and didnt feel like fixing it until next time I had it on the lift. When I fixed it I put the rest of the 5 gallon pail of DEF in it. How far should I expect this thing to go on DEF?
And second question, I have not noticed it in regen yet. At first I figured I was doing enough hauling and highway time that everything was happy with a clean DPF, but now 8k or so in I'm suspicious. Not to say it hasn't done a regen, I just haven't noticed the EGTs get anywhere near hot enough for that to be happening, and 2011 as far as I know has no message or way to force it to regen without a scan tool much fancier than mine. How often would you expect it to regen, and is there any way to tell if it has besides watching EGTs and weird smoke? My only thought is my EGR is still blocked and I returned the programming with the original minimax to a stock based tune, so I wonder if the EGR codes are blocking regen? I check every so often and the only codes in the truck are EGR related.
Yes I know the internet says blocking the EGR with the DPF is bad. For the moment its working fine that way, I know I am risking a plugged DPF/SCR (although in my head the EGR would be causing more particulates than it eliminates, but I am willing to admit I don't know what I don't know here).
CarterKraft
Thread ****ter Upper
If it's not regenning (that you can tell) and not using DEF (your concern) why would you think its all working well?
back woods
Well-known member
2016 F450, sticking turbo vanes. Got so bad that the compressor wheel and housing were damaged from severe surge. Unfortunately it was a fancy billet wheel that got wiped out.
Took it all apart and sprayed all the moving parts with a thick coating of Tungsten Disulfide spray. This stuff is pretty slick, it is a high temp lubricant rated to 1400+ degrees. Got turned onto by a guy on a Ford 7.3 forum.
The turbo needed a new compressor cover and wheel. It already had a 360 kit, 10 blade turbine, and aftermarket vgt actuator so an upgrade was in order.
63.5mm comp cover and 6+6 wheel. Stock is around 61mm so it is a good bump. There is a touch more lag, a little less boost and cooler egts by around 100 degrees. Tough to break 1100 degree egts on a 40hp file.
Took it all apart and sprayed all the moving parts with a thick coating of Tungsten Disulfide spray. This stuff is pretty slick, it is a high temp lubricant rated to 1400+ degrees. Got turned onto by a guy on a Ford 7.3 forum.
The turbo needed a new compressor cover and wheel. It already had a 360 kit, 10 blade turbine, and aftermarket vgt actuator so an upgrade was in order.
63.5mm comp cover and 6+6 wheel. Stock is around 61mm so it is a good bump. There is a touch more lag, a little less boost and cooler egts by around 100 degrees. Tough to break 1100 degree egts on a 40hp file.
djljeep
Well-known member
I have no idea if the emission control systems are working well, and I admit that. What I'm asking is how do I verify those concerns (verify DEF usage and Regen without a professional grade scan tool/forscan on a 2011)? When I say its working well, I'm talking the overall engine - Its running fine right now, and all of the live data that I normally watch is within normal ranges, but I'm aware that if the emissions systems are installed but malfunctioning, eventually I will have caused a problem. I put the emissions back on (except the EGR, which is still in the truck but blocked) because I was starting to run out of people to sticker the truck, and with the way my state has been threatening inspectors lately, I don't blame them. Even with the .gov scaling back their enforcement that is realistically temporary and the state isn't going to give up anyway.
MuntCuffin
Upgrayedded user
On the trucks at work you can check def system functioning by checking nox inlet vs outlet values.
If that doesn't work, you'd need to do a def doser check. Which requires a bi-directional scan tool, taking off the doser, and pumping into a measuring container.
If your not getting a nox outlet code set, I'd assume everything is working.
This thing is hurting my wallet the past couple months. Granted I paid some stupid tax at the stealership for preventative maintenance… I’m telling myself all this lasted ~130k so far so a few grand to do another 100k shouldn’t be bad.
Brake fluid flush (dealer)
Power steering fluid flush (dealer)
CCV (dealer)
Ball joints
Tie rod & drag link
Tires (moot point, just painful combined with everything else)
Cold side charge tube blew
MAP sensor
Microphone
Rear brakes a few thousand miles ago
Still need to do a trans drain and fill + filter, and front u-joints felt loose when I did the ball joints but didn’t feel like replacing now. Add it to the one day list.
Brake fluid flush (dealer)
Power steering fluid flush (dealer)
CCV (dealer)
Ball joints
Tie rod & drag link
Tires (moot point, just painful combined with everything else)
Cold side charge tube blew
MAP sensor
Microphone
Rear brakes a few thousand miles ago
Still need to do a trans drain and fill + filter, and front u-joints felt loose when I did the ball joints but didn’t feel like replacing now. Add it to the one day list.
Bogus One
Red Skull
- Joined
- May 21, 2020
- Messages
- 160
Had the DCR conversion done a few weeks back.
Went out to Hammers for T-day. I forgot to reset my trip meter before leaving but I swear I got better mileage than before. Could have easily gone from Pahrump to Hammers and back on one tank, but stopped in Baker to fill up on the way back to "play it safe"
Went out to Hammers for T-day. I forgot to reset my trip meter before leaving but I swear I got better mileage than before. Could have easily gone from Pahrump to Hammers and back on one tank, but stopped in Baker to fill up on the way back to "play it safe"
This thing is the gift that keeps on giving recently…
I’ve been hearing an ever so faint knock when rolling off of very light throttle under load. Like going up a driveway or hill and alternating between idle and throttle. I assumed it was something in the belt drive assembly, found what I thought was a wobbly idler pulley and just swapped it. New one still has some play but maybe feels like less than the old one.
But then I noticed harmonic balancer while checking my work. Sure looks to have some wobble to it.
Dealer wants $1,200 which is a lot better than I expected. $750 in labor, I guess it’s not a press fit? My PTSD from doing duramax balancers kicked in, has anyone done one on a 6.7? I guess with 4 bolts it’s not as bad as a job compared to the press fit duramax single bolt? Is it just pulling the fan for access or more of the front stack?
Debating whether I want to tackle it or not.
Video won't upload of the balancer, hard to tell anyways
I’ve been hearing an ever so faint knock when rolling off of very light throttle under load. Like going up a driveway or hill and alternating between idle and throttle. I assumed it was something in the belt drive assembly, found what I thought was a wobbly idler pulley and just swapped it. New one still has some play but maybe feels like less than the old one.
But then I noticed harmonic balancer while checking my work. Sure looks to have some wobble to it.
Dealer wants $1,200 which is a lot better than I expected. $750 in labor, I guess it’s not a press fit? My PTSD from doing duramax balancers kicked in, has anyone done one on a 6.7? I guess with 4 bolts it’s not as bad as a job compared to the press fit duramax single bolt? Is it just pulling the fan for access or more of the front stack?
Debating whether I want to tackle it or not.
Video won't upload of the balancer, hard to tell anyways
MuntCuffin
Upgrayedded user
Use their stiction eliminator on a high mileage and neglected ford 6.0 and a cat 3126.
Both seem to run better and seem to start easier at colder temps. But you wouldn't need that for a 6.7.
