What did you do to your GM today?

Picked up about 1/2 the **** i needed to swap out the interior plastics from light tan/shale to pewter/lt grey thats much easier to find stuff for.

Rear door panels
A pillars
C & d pillars
Rear quarters

Also got some front and middle seats to re do/get redone.

I got the dash, b pillars, front door sills, and small parts from the tahoe.

The barn door related trims are just a real ****ing **** to find at all, any color.

20251012_131734.jpg
 
4Eyedturd said:
How are those light tan seat covers?
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Cloth seats

Middles are prime.

Front d-side is stained and showing its age but not wrecked. Power bottom and forward/back but manual tilt

Front p-side is prime. Manual controls

Tan/shale interior plastics are hit n miss. Some is solid, missing tabs on some parts
Afaik the dash and lowers are gtg. Paints fading/missing on the p-side but not busted at all. Door panels are generaly ****erd.
 
V30crewcab said:
I hardly ever see those in barn door.
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I cant say that ive ever seen a barn door tahoe in person but theres plenty out there when you search. The burbs seem to be 50:1 or worse.

I was just searching for the trims and i found 4 others for parts within 200m. So idk.
 
I looked at one barn door Tahoe when I was looking for mine. Not real common at all.
 
Gawd they really give it these old vehicles compared to the new chit when doing a song. Watched multiple post 2000s vehicles get ran through before mine was done. Passed with really good numbers and happy the evap system took the pressure test.
 
Usually old Honda or Toyota cars in my area.
 
Removed most of the brake and fuel lines. The fuel lines weren’t terribly rusty aside from the flex line crimps. Probably could have left them, don’t want to lay under this thing for awhile after the quasi resto I’m doing.
IMG_1679.jpeg
 
Replaced all 4 shift solenoids, added a gallon of fluid )"(checked temp at 165-170) and cleaned three grounds I could find. After swapping solenoids my air conditioning would t light up but it was running max cold. After drinks 15 minutes it faded in to visible from all black. After cleaning grounds it seemed reaybright. Grounds were as follows:
One at the front of the truck, one under the driver door on the frame, and one on the driver side engine block. The one on the door seemed dirtiest.

Also discovered the turbo inlet band clamp is loose and won't tighten. New part ordered as well as front shocks. Pretty sure 120k miles and 6 years of driving wore them out which might explain some odd noises and weird tire wear on the outer edge.
Also pressure washed the engine bay and I think I found an injector like is leaking, and my EGR and turbo coolant lines are what is causing me to lose coolant.
 
RunningProblem said:
Replaced all 4 shift solenoids, added a gallon of fluid )"(checked temp at 165-170) and cleaned three grounds I could find. After swapping solenoids my air conditioning would t light up but it was running max cold. After drinks 15 minutes it faded in to visible from all black. After cleaning grounds it seemed reaybright. Grounds were as follows: One at the front of the truck, one under the driver door on the frame, and one on the driver side engine block. The one on the door seemed dirtiest. Also discovered the turbo inlet band clamp is loose and won't tighten. New part ordered as well as front shocks. Pretty sure 120k miles and 6 years of driving wore them out which might explain some odd noises and weird tire wear on the outer edge. Also pressure washed the engine bay and I think I found an injector like is leaking, and my EGR and turbo coolant lines are what is causing me to lose coolant.
Click to expand...
Edit: no check engine light this morning.
 
Last edited:
total newb said:
What specificaly did you have to do?

I moved my pivot back 1 bolt hole, cut and bent the arm on the pivot and extended and bent the rod slightly.
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I moved the frame bracket back a bit further...about an inch beyond the holes. It looked to square up to tranny selector shaft better. I extended the rod, but didn't have to bend it to fit. I didn't modify the pivot, but maybe I need to...it doesn't move the selector shaft far enough to fully engage 1st. My understanding is that I could shorten the pivot throw but it ****s with indexing on the column? I'm thinking that the compromise of not having 1st is acceptable.
 
Rocktonka said:
I moved the frame bracket back a bit further...about an inch beyond the holes. It looked to square up to tranny selector shaft better. I extended the rod, but didn't have to bend it to fit. I didn't modify the pivot, but maybe I need to...it doesn't move the selector shaft far enough to fully engage 1st. My understanding is that I could shorten the pivot throw but it ****s with indexing on the column? I'm thinking that the compromise of not having 1st is acceptable.
Click to expand...
Ok. So you did the same things.

I took a bite out of the arm on the pivot then bent it over and welded it back together.

That shortened it slightly and moved the eye forwards slightly so when you went for first the link rod didnt hit the pivot rod.
 
Slightly off topic but I have a 203/205 doubler I'm trying to get rid of. PM me if interested.
 
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