YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
No ****, the granite, as long as it's not super fractured, will be better than any concrete
-
Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Build 94 Sonoma build
- Thread starter Duc
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #92
Dude, just get some longer anchors. You ain't pulling a lift out of solid granite.
The rock is mix of granite and decomposed granite but it will be fine. I will add some bracing for the movement arm later on.
I should be back on the truck this weekend. Only have electrical wiring left on the lift but it should help with the speed of the build.
- Thread starter
- #95
Glad I waited for the lift to be installed. My body appreciates being able to raise and lower the truck height. Lift install took a little extra time since I need to rewire some conduit boxes to add the 220 circuit and also add a outlet on the lift for grinder or lights.
Dam thing had 8 bolts holding the bed on to the frame.
Prior owner modified the toolbox to fit the width of the truck but tried to mig weld AL to steel strap. I had to cut some access holes since the release was ****ed up.
Removed the bed for the rear axle later on. I really need to remove the prior owners license plate.
Ready to start on todays entertainment.
Unbolted front bumper, steering parts and the Bilstein shocks which appeared to still be good. Front A-arms were plasma cut off.
axle shafts were being a little bit of a bitch so they were also plasma cut and torsion bars were just cut as revenge for the duramax ones giving me trouble in the past.
**** this one bolt for the front diff. Was a bitch to remove even when using the window behind the a-arms. The correct size wrench or socket does not fit through this small window on the bottom of the frame.
Magic metal eraser come out to cut the front diffs mounting brackets. Even the bolts on the passenger side were a pain.
In stock form, the truck has a flat belly with the Tcase.
My old 2000 tacoma sas was done with jack stands in a garage but that was 14 years ago. I remember it being a pain in the ass. Much easier now with lift, plasma torch, electric tools, air conditioning and noise cancelling ear buds.
**** Ive gotten soft or just old.
Dam thing had 8 bolts holding the bed on to the frame.
Prior owner modified the toolbox to fit the width of the truck but tried to mig weld AL to steel strap. I had to cut some access holes since the release was ****ed up.
Removed the bed for the rear axle later on. I really need to remove the prior owners license plate.
Ready to start on todays entertainment.
Unbolted front bumper, steering parts and the Bilstein shocks which appeared to still be good. Front A-arms were plasma cut off.
axle shafts were being a little bit of a bitch so they were also plasma cut and torsion bars were just cut as revenge for the duramax ones giving me trouble in the past.
**** this one bolt for the front diff. Was a bitch to remove even when using the window behind the a-arms. The correct size wrench or socket does not fit through this small window on the bottom of the frame.
Magic metal eraser come out to cut the front diffs mounting brackets. Even the bolts on the passenger side were a pain.
In stock form, the truck has a flat belly with the Tcase.
My old 2000 tacoma sas was done with jack stands in a garage but that was 14 years ago. I remember it being a pain in the ass. Much easier now with lift, plasma torch, electric tools, air conditioning and noise cancelling ear buds.
**** Ive gotten soft or just old.
Good hurry up the suspense is killing me
Skinny
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2023
- Messages
- 960
I remember many years building **** outside.
I have a very flat belly. My pan needed a bit of hammering in a few spots for the front CV and tcase but I have a 1350 and a 242 case plus it's a 2wd. Not sure if the sheet metal is different but I was surprised how little it took to have a flat case.
But like I said, my CV is maxed out at full droop of my shocks. If I pull the shocks and let it drop out a bit more it binds. But I'd rather not have an aluminum case hanging down.
I have a very flat belly. My pan needed a bit of hammering in a few spots for the front CV and tcase but I have a 1350 and a 242 case plus it's a 2wd. Not sure if the sheet metal is different but I was surprised how little it took to have a flat case.
But like I said, my CV is maxed out at full droop of my shocks. If I pull the shocks and let it drop out a bit more it binds. But I'd rather not have an aluminum case hanging down.
- Thread starter
- #97
Started on the front frame brace before I cut off the IFS brackets to avoid the frame spreading in the front. Things are already off a little from side to side due to a front collusion I believe.
Next two pictures show how the radiator has been pushed back about 1/2 on passenger side. The line is 1in in front of radiator using a square.
I was debating how to install the bracing bar but ended up recessing it in the frame. 3x4x.120 wall box tubing
Not a bad fit
Tomorrow I will clean the metal up before welding everything together.
Next two pictures show how the radiator has been pushed back about 1/2 on passenger side. The line is 1in in front of radiator using a square.
I was debating how to install the bracing bar but ended up recessing it in the frame. 3x4x.120 wall box tubing
Not a bad fit
Tomorrow I will clean the metal up before welding everything together.
- Thread starter
- #98
Welded in the front brace before getting froggy with the plasma cutter. Glad the plasma has a post air setting to help blow out all the flames after cutting. Lots of oil and grease on the frame even after cleaning the engine bay before starting.
Both sides are going to be fun to plate with all the features on the rails. The frame is about 90% cleaned but the bracket by the starter might need to wait to be cleaned up.
Driver side.
Passenger side
My thoughts for plating the frame to account for all the features in the frame.
Step 1
Step 2. I will also need to cap off some areas on top.
Both sides are going to be fun to plate with all the features on the rails. The frame is about 90% cleaned but the bracket by the starter might need to wait to be cleaned up.
Driver side.
Passenger side
My thoughts for plating the frame to account for all the features in the frame.
Step 1
Step 2. I will also need to cap off some areas on top.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
Are the S10 frames really that bad? Instead of welding a bunch of plates to the stock frame, you could do a front half frame replacement and cut everything off in front of the motor mounts.
- Thread starter
- #100
Makes Tacoma frames look really clean. Not sure I want to open that can of worms yet with everything else going on. Maybe some sleep and tacos tomorrow will help with the decision.
I would need to redo the engine mount, radiator mount, steering box location. Could be a future me problem but at least with 3 link its not to much duplicate work.
Finished off the last of the grinding on the front today. I had to remove the starter to reach this location.
Covered starter location with duct tape before grinding.
Only 1 out of 6 packages showed up today as scheduled. The part I dont need for some time.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
I thought about cutting the tacoma frame right behind the front body mounts then at the back where the frame starts to widen out then graft in a section of TJ frame to get the coil buckets, panhard mount, steering box location etc. I have a XJ HP D30 for it. Still debating it on the next build. Need to deal with my DD problems first and actually get my ass started on my 63 GMC first. Need a tow pig to start hauling this **** around.
Skinny
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2023
- Messages
- 960
My frame is 2wd so it has the big gaping holes for the coils that I need to address but probably never will 
Yeah there are some differences around these years to pay attention to with the 4L60e. Time to start reading. Also may want to look for a V8 donor trans if you aren't going to build it as they supposedly have some extra clutch material. Also think there is a cross in wiring compatibility somewhere.
What are you doing for a tcase? Are you swapping to manual shift?
Yeah there are some differences around these years to pay attention to with the 4L60e. Time to start reading. Also may want to look for a V8 donor trans if you aren't going to build it as they supposedly have some extra clutch material. Also think there is a cross in wiring compatibility somewhere.
What are you doing for a tcase? Are you swapping to manual shift?
- Thread starter
- #104
My frame is 2wd so it has the big gaping holes for the coils that I need to address but probably never will
Yeah there are some differences around these years to pay attention to with the 4L60e. Time to start reading. Also may want to look for a V8 donor trans if you aren't going to build it as they supposedly have some extra clutch material. Also think there is a cross in wiring compatibility somewhere.
What are you doing for a tcase? Are you swapping to manual shift?
Forum was messing up early so my post wouldn't save
I was looking at a 2004 4l60e with a 261 ld transfer case but unsure if that is a good combo. Need to do more research on it
- Thread starter
- #105
The more I look into the 261, the more I want to skip it. Front can be converted to fixed yoke but rear would remain slip yoke which I would like to avoid. I have a 241C that I received for free that will work much better with a 4l60e with 6 bolt output.
Preheated the center section with a weed burner to 450°F before welding the tubes onto the center section. Welding setting 24.5V and 475 wire speed on a MM252. Used a standard ER70S-6 mig wire. I had to switch to my small automative jacks to allow the pumkin to fully tilt down which caused the dam thing to fall off the jacks. At least it stayed on the table and not the floor. The welder feed motor also stop working right after the fall till I removed the covers to test the voltage values to the motor. Works fine now and I didnt do ****.
Wrapped for cooling down overnight.
Axle truss has a tight fit after some minor grinding on the axle. Truss was tacked into place at 7 degree tilt back angle from the diff cover surface. I will wait till suspension is known before burning it in.
Modified some dollies to fit the DIY stands. Strap keeps the axle from tilting when on the stands.
Axle centered under the truck.
I will need to do something about the Motor mount to improve clearance for upper link. Might be time to build my own motor mount that takes up less room.
Just playing around with placement before heading inside.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
- Thread starter
- #107
Not sure why I had a brain dart on this since this is my second 3 link setup. But it has been 13 years.
arse_sidewards
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Messages
- 10,755
IDK why people go to such lengths to preheat housings. The types of iron and steel that make a good housing also make for good welding. People have been welding tubes to axles since the hot rod days with little care and no ill effects.
rattle_snake
****wits
Because the physics are well understood on how to mitigate the potential problems of said welding. Good practice.
But on a chevy, ya **** it just spatter some boogers down and hit the meth pipe.
But on a chevy, ya **** it just spatter some boogers down and hit the meth pipe.
Skinny
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2023
- Messages
- 960
I read about the 261 briefly and through the same thing. Expensive bastard that is still a bastard. 241 although not exactly gods gift will work fine. I think unless you step up to an Atlas or gear drive like a 205 not much in between.
241 also steps the front yoke back a bit being a planetary. I bet with a gear drive where the output is near the back of the trans your front driveshaft will be very short and steep.
241 also steps the front yoke back a bit being a planetary. I bet with a gear drive where the output is near the back of the trans your front driveshaft will be very short and steep.
- Thread starter
- #112
Preheat only adds an extra 30 mins for some extra insurance. Sure 90% of the time its fine but the 10% always happens at the worst time.
We will see how the driveshaft angle ends up being. Adding a doubler would help the issue but would just add additional cost.
Yesterday I was an idiot when trying to remove the balljoints in the steering arms. Not sure why I thought the lower one went down thru the arms but finally corrected myself. Ive actually never replacement balljoints since the duramax arms were damaged, I replaced them with new arms that already had balljoints.
Welded up both steering arms today. Preheated to 450°F before I started to weld to the cast steel.
Hopefully my welds hold. alot of flipping to avoid out of place welding. Had to use rags even with gloves to avoid burning myself. I would also recommend having the correct bolt size to make sure the holes are aligned for your steering.
Allowed to cool for a few hours before I started on the next one.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
If you don't need a doubler for the gearing but it would help driveshaft angle what about just an extension housing with a spud shaft in it like AA did for 2wd TH350's and such?
Skinny
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2023
- Messages
- 960
I think if you do a doubler the floor pan and seat will require some rework if you want to keep it flat. It's kind of a bastard.
IIRC where my 242 landed with a 4L60 I remember it being almost in the factory tcase location and only needing a couple of hammer spots to make work. Most of which was the 1350 CV and output flange.
I was going the doubler route and just with basic mock-up it did have a fair amount of interference on the extended cab. I mean nothing requiring rocket science but it went from near drop in and go to floor pan work.
Pushing the front axle forward helps a lot but these things definitely have **** for front angle geometry. Not like a Jeep with a three foot front driveshaft from the factory.
I was surprised considering I was fairly low stance, high pinion, front axle way far forward. But I also wanted my tcase clocked pretty flat and tucked up. So I'm sure you could gain a bit in other spots but to me that negates the whole point. Plus I'm not linked so you can only smash those gay leaf springs so far down unlike a coilover.
IIRC where my 242 landed with a 4L60 I remember it being almost in the factory tcase location and only needing a couple of hammer spots to make work. Most of which was the 1350 CV and output flange.
I was going the doubler route and just with basic mock-up it did have a fair amount of interference on the extended cab. I mean nothing requiring rocket science but it went from near drop in and go to floor pan work.
Pushing the front axle forward helps a lot but these things definitely have **** for front angle geometry. Not like a Jeep with a three foot front driveshaft from the factory.
I was surprised considering I was fairly low stance, high pinion, front axle way far forward. But I also wanted my tcase clocked pretty flat and tucked up. So I'm sure you could gain a bit in other spots but to me that negates the whole point. Plus I'm not linked so you can only smash those gay leaf springs so far down unlike a coilover.
- Thread starter
- #115
1 step forward and 2 backwards.
Started off the day with cutting the drivers side frame off between the radiator and cab body mount. Tried to match the lines with a 5x3x.1875in rectangle tube for awhile but decided to just weld original back into place. The thing was pissing me out to much when trying to match the lines and also remembered the steering box is set into the frame.
Tomorrow I may just plate the dam thing for now and worry about it later on. To many things to work on.
-Knuckles are painted
-Lower 3link brackets drilled out to 3/4 bolts.
-Cart made for moving rear axle around also.
Started off the day with cutting the drivers side frame off between the radiator and cab body mount. Tried to match the lines with a 5x3x.1875in rectangle tube for awhile but decided to just weld original back into place. The thing was pissing me out to much when trying to match the lines and also remembered the steering box is set into the frame.
Tomorrow I may just plate the dam thing for now and worry about it later on. To many things to work on.
-Knuckles are painted
-Lower 3link brackets drilled out to 3/4 bolts.
-Cart made for moving rear axle around also.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
****'s going down.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
A few more pictures for the hell of it. For a first mock up the clearances are looking promising other than the tires getting into the lower links with the frame side mounted directly under the frame.
- Thread starter
- #120
'84 Bronco II and I made awesome progress on the initial fit up of the 3 link parts. I need to pull the measurements tomorrow to see how the numbers come out in the calculator.
-Lower links frame mounts are going to move inboard about 3 inches on each side to help with the tires rubbing the links.
-Lower axle mounts are going to rotate up some to allow for clearance under axle. They hang down about 1.5 to 2.5 inches for initial fit but should be level with the bottom of the axle.
-Upper frame mount may move further back once the transmission mount is modified for the for the driveshaft clearance.
Things to do after today
-Weld up the axle truss,
-wire wheel the unit bearing
-Install need balljoints into knuckles
-Make sure the spacing on the steering arms is correct for heims. Forgot to put spacers in during welding.
-Order heims for the upper link, panhard bar, steering link.
-Order tubing for all links
-Purchase grade 8 bolts
-Remove ABS module and overflow tank to make room for the coilover towers.
I know im missing ****.
-Lower links frame mounts are going to move inboard about 3 inches on each side to help with the tires rubbing the links.
-Lower axle mounts are going to rotate up some to allow for clearance under axle. They hang down about 1.5 to 2.5 inches for initial fit but should be level with the bottom of the axle.
-Upper frame mount may move further back once the transmission mount is modified for the for the driveshaft clearance.
Things to do after today
-Weld up the axle truss,
-wire wheel the unit bearing
-Install need balljoints into knuckles
-Make sure the spacing on the steering arms is correct for heims. Forgot to put spacers in during welding.
-Order heims for the upper link, panhard bar, steering link.
-Order tubing for all links
-Purchase grade 8 bolts
-Remove ABS module and overflow tank to make room for the coilover towers.
I know im missing ****.