Build 83’ 304-Yota (Told my Chica it’s for her)

Man I can't believe it's been over a month since I posted. I've been working on a bunch of little things but haven't completed anything that's really post worthy.

I'm trying to get ready for Fordyce on Labor Day weekend. Big thing I need to finish is the charging system. I settled on a Powermaster CS130 140amp alternator #478021 $166. I emailed Powermaster and asked which was better SI or CS, they replied the CS is higher quality, better cooling, better regulator and electronics, and is smaller in size. I order the alternator from Summit along with other wiring things, and a CS plug from Tuff Stuff. I placed the order at 4:15pm and the order was delivered 9:30am the next day!

I cleaned up the tensioner bracket, pressed in a new bearing from Toyota, picked up some misc hardware, I can't believe all this was $39 otd straight from Toyota.

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New Bearing and Hardware, cleaned up and painted.
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This is the first step of the interior remodel. It’s much further along, but I’ll save that for another post.
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Also spent a weekend in Vallejo with a buddy replacing a seized up brand new ARB compressor cause the air filter fell off, and retightening all the steering links. But mostly we just drank and went and heckled our friend Frank the Mad R@per.

It was buried pretty deep.
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Parts came in. I ordered a bunch of hose clips from Toyota as I absolutely hate hose clamps. I cleaned up and painted some brackets, and I got most the items in to complete the Alternator install. I also picked up some Parker 5/8” Heater Hose and I’m going to start swapping out the old crusty hoses.

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Specs on the new alternator are pretty good. I don’t have an electric fan or a fuel pump, so my biggest draw is going to be my Sound Bar and Sub.

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New hoses installed, PCV Valve Grommet and OEM Hose, new Valve Cover Grommets and Acorn nuts, new 22R Decal, maybe some other things I forgot.

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The hose clamps ship with clips holding them open, makes for an easy install.

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I also pulled the hood so that I could clean the under side. I used a bowl of hot water with dish soap, and 0000 steel wool. Cleaned up pretty well.

This picture makes it not look so bad lol.
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Big one for exterior is I need to figure out how to get the rattle can grey paint off the factory white without destroying the original paint.
 
Not a whole lot to update for the week. Almost all my parts and pieces are coming in to finish up the working. I think I have everything sorted out to get the Alternator and additional accessories, Stereo, Ham, Rocklights installed.

I’m really trying not to cut the factory harness. I used and old Regulator and cut the plug off and connected two wires so that I have keyed power going to the Alternator. Not sure why this regulators wire colors don’t match at all to the factory.
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Other 3 wires are just heat shrunk and left in place. Two wires on right are the ones tied together.
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Made a harness for the CS130 plug using weather pack connectors.
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I used a 6 Circuit Blue Sea fuse panel for additional accessories. I attached it to the lid of the AuxBeam switch panel.

This is $11 worth of 8-32 hardware 🤦‍♂️ rubber washers cause the lid isn’t flat.
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Underside with bolts cut down
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All attached. Just need to finish wiring this weekend.
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I did cut the factory plug off that has the two fusable links that go directly to the battery the cables were corroded into the plug. I replaced it with weather pack and will be using 2 15amp fuses instead of the fusable link.
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Battery cables might be overkill.
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Got her running, idles smooth and 14.6v any RPM or load.

I tried to keep everything as clean as I could. Wrapped and ran the 4awg and Sense wire along the firewall, and you can barely see it.

Installed a BlueSea Mega Fuse holder, installed a 100amp Bussmann breaker, should be enough for the AuxBeam and 6-Circut BlueSea fuse panel. I still need to run the wires for the Stereo and Rock Lights.

There are a total of 12 total circuits.
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Pile of tools.
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I ordered this new style split loom, but didn’t use it on this build. I picked it up from summit. Looks nice and seems heavy duty.
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Someone jammed the wrong bolt into the PS Pump, so I had to chase it. 10mm 1.25.
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Do some reason I couldn’t source locally a water outlet gasket, so I made my own.
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New Bando Belts installed along with the new Alternator. Factory belt fits perfect with the CS130 and LC Engineering bracket.
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A few more maintenance things, Stereo and Rock Lights and I should be good for Fordyce on Friday.
 
I went up to a 2350 after my alternator swap, the factory 2345 worked after wearing in and stretching a little but took some convincing to get on the first time.
 
grapehead said:
I went up to a 2350 after my alternator swap, the factory 2345 worked after wearing in and stretching a little but took some convincing to get on the first time.
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I actually couldn't get the 2345 on originally so I ordered a 2355, and it was way too big. So I went back and found it easier to use the Crank Pully as the spot to slip the 2345 over.

The Powermaster Alternator has a tab off the back side for the ground lug. it was contacting the oil pan and limiting movement. I think if I were to take that lug off the belt I think would have easily gone on.

I'll also add, nowhere on the Bando Belts or packaging does it say where they were made. I'm assuming Mexico. But these belts are like $4ea and feel like a quality belt. First time I am using Bando.
 
J.Cole said:
I just realized we were behind you guys on Saturday between Winch Hill .5 and Winch Hill 1 lol. That was a pretty sweet wheelie you did coming up the top of 1. Hope you had a good rest of your trip!
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Hahaha, yeah good times. Chica's telling me I need to get more to the right, almost backflip down WH1, MtnYota's quote, "Your tire is 8' off the ground, but if you come forward slowly I think you got it." :lmao:

Trip was good, I got all f'd up in the box on Which Hill 3, bent a rim and popped a bead. Luckily we got it reset with some sketchy High Lift work, and a tug backwards.

Then MtnYota's truck popped out of gear and ghost rode itself down the hill. Oddly a manzanita stopped it, and he was able to drive it out.

All in all good trip, hope you guys had a good trip as well.
 
Little update from the week before our Fordyce trip. I decided to get all the wiring and accessories done before the trip, which lead to us leaving at 7pm from the bay and getting to camp at WH 1 at 3:30am. Worked out well, no one was on the trail. We left the parking lot at 12:35am and luckily had no breaks or issues as my chica and I were wheeling alone.

ExoGear sub and sound bar installed. They are great on battery life. Played 5-6hrs at a time and truck started up just fine.
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I also mounted to cargo lights on both sides on the sound bar. Excellent when setting up camp or getting things out of the bed in the dark.
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Then installed a switched 15amp charge port, wired in so it also turns the ham on and off. This charged a lot phones during the trip.
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Made a mount for the ham that uses the two bolts that hold the Volt and Oil Pressure gauge pod to the dash. A couple of washers behind it gave it the proper spacing
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Crudly attached the charge port to the dash. This dash is roached and is going to get replaced anyways.
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I also got the rock lights mounted. The Harbor Freight Rock lights are awesome. They are 4.4 watts each and can run all night and not kill the battery. Mounted two up front, one under each rock slider and two off the back. Perfect for night wheeling
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I think my DeWalt light is on in this pic lol.
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Quick recap on Fordyce as I maxed out the 10 image limit on the last post.

We’ve been trying to get the lagoon near committee but normally it’s taken. Oddly this time it wasn’t so we enjoyed an evening there. I was going to float down the waterfall, but once you get near it, it’s like a 15’ drop lol.
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Good times!
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The survivors lol. At least we didn't run out like last year.
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First upgrade has to be the front suspension. It was absolutely brutal, the front would bounce off the rocks and lead to a long ride back to the trail head. I need to get the front 3 Leaf springs out. MtnYota gave me his well worn 6-Leaf 5" TG front springs. So I cleaned them up and ordered all new bushings. Should bolt right in. They are 1" longer than the current springs, and have the same 22 1/2" front bolt to center pin measurement.
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All cleaned up with new bushings installed.
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No idea why I bought both these front hangers. I literally have all the tubing and tabs to make my own. AllPro Offroad low profile next to TG.
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A little less than 1" difference, 2 1/4" compared to 3 1/16". Should help with the 5" springs.
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Not too much accomplished, but I’m hoping to get the springs in tomorrow.

The current springs only have about 2” of droop, and only 2 1/2” till they hit the bumps.
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Not very much droop.
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New springs (well used TG 5”) are a few inches longer and a few inches taller. At ride height on their old rig, 85’ won ton extra cab, they were pretty much flat. So hopefully these work.
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Full droop with the 12” Bilsteins maxed out.
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Cutting the spring hangers off was a pain as they were covered in booger welds.
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Well it’s back on its wheels and I have some issues. Luckily I decided to go with the TG spring hanger and not the AllPro short Hamger.

MtnYota gave me some Weld Washers / Sleeves so that I don’t wallow out the bolt holes. Drilled to 7/8” and burned them in. I’m using 3/4” Grade 8 bolts instead of the 18mm bolts.

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I nailed it with positioning. The Drag Link in right up against the Center Link 😅 so now I can burn it in.

I would say I moved the axle forward a little over an 1” so that should help with fire wall clearance with the 36’s.

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Phew, they clear.
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Bolted everything up and lowered it down and was super happy with the ride height! Started jumping up and down on it and realized…
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MtnYota said:
I hereby rename this build “sloppy seconds”
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Technically this would be Sloppy Fourths, which I’m also fine with :rockon:

MAC67 said:
Barnes sent these to me by mistake and told me to keep them. Yours if ya want.
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Thank you for the offer! Actually Barns 5” boomerangs showed up today.

I’m not sure they will work as they still seem to contact the frame a little. I need to get it all torn apart and get them installed. Looks like the Sky kit has the bend in the middle which is what it looks like it needs, not the bend being off center.

These were only $20 from Barnes, I picked up a 18mm Chinesium ***anium Coated drill bit to go from 9/16 to 18mm.
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Drilled really nicely, I took off the sharp edges, primed and painted with some semi gloss.
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Also side note. I took this pic last night at 11:35pm durning the Super Moon with my iPhone 15Pro. Pretty crazy what came out after a 3 second exposure!
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A little relieved. Swapped the Shackles and trimmed the body mounts about 1”, and everything seems to clear perfectly.

I was able to move the axle forward 1” and lower ride height by a little over 1”, and I have about 1 1/2” to the bump stop at ride height. Bump stops are very soft so I think it will work perfect.

With the springs completely flat the shackles easily clear the frame and they are just touching the bump stops.

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Replaced the Frame bushing as well. These rubber ones sucked and were roached.
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Total vertical travel is about 9”! Limited by the shocks. I could probably get 10” travel if I lower the F-250 shock mounts.
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Looks good on the clearance to the spring and everything. I remember for awhile everyone bitched about boomerang shackles not actually doing anything because people were putting them on stuff that didn't need the clearance. The shape of your bump stops reminded me of something only for me to find out they are apparently no longer made, daystar poly bump stops in the cans? can't remember the name off hand but can't find them anywhere. I remember they were almost the same cost as the cheapie air bumps when they came out but hoped they would drop as it seemed like a decent idea.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Looks good on the clearance to the spring and everything. I remember for awhile everyone bitched about boomerang shackles not actually doing anything because people were putting them on stuff that didn't need the clearance. The shape of your bump stops reminded me of something only for me to find out they are apparently no longer made, daystar poly bump stops in the cans? can't remember the name off hand but can't find them anywhere. I remember they were almost the same cost as the cheapie air bumps when they came out but hoped they would drop as it seemed like a decent idea.
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I think these are what you are talking about, and it looks like they are still available. Pretty pricey though.

Mine are just cheap $10 Chevy 1500 Bumps off Amazon. They rot out after about 5 years, but are easy to replace.

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That's the ones. Odd, I looked all over including just going to Daystars website and looking at every bump stop they had and didn't see them. I wonder if Summit is sitting on a big inventory they had already bought or something.
 
So the front spring hangers are fully burned in and painted. After tacking everything in, I noticed I could still move the hanger forward another inch. So I cut the the 1” long “tach” welds off and pushed it forwards. I now have about 1/2” clearance from the pitman arm to the center link. Overall this moved the axle about 2” forward.

Things escalated quickly when I decided to cut it all out again lol.
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Here the hanger is moved forward another 7/8” this actually pulled the shackles forward a bit and actually raised the ride height by over an inch. I think I’m going to work with MtnYota to make some new shackles that are 4” long to being it down a little.
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I also made some new anti roll pads for the center link out of 3/8” UHMW.
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So my truck has a 2” body lift, but even then my tires are completely stuffed into the fenders. These pics arn’t maxed out, but I’m able to use the full 12” travel of the front Bilsteins. Without the body lift these tires would be shoved into the fenders.
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Tight clearance, excellent.
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All painted and ready for winter.
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Cool build. I appreciate your attention to detail and using factory parts.
You need a new dash, I have one. Brand new in the box.
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The dash panel is still available.
www.ebay.com

FITS: 81 - 83 TOYOTA PICKUP DLX SR5 DASH INSTRUMENT PANEL BEZEL TRIM OEM NEW | eBay

TOYOTA PICKUP DLX SR5. 1981 - 1983 TOYOTA PICKUP DLX SR5. FRONT DASH. TOYOTA OEM GENUINE PART NO. 89136. OEM Part Number Factory, OEM. Head Lights. Tail Lights.
www.ebay.com
I'm assuming that you're in Santa Cruz, you know the Toy Connection...
He has the dash panel, but I'm pretty sure he has no dash pads.

I have a lot of parts for 79-83. Let me know if you need anything.
I'm in the SC Mountains.
 
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I may be seeing this wrong, but it looks like you have no support on that shock hanger. A couple 3/4" .188" tubes tied into the top of the frame may eliminate a bad day on the trail. That flex will crack the frame. I've made that mistake. Beef it up.
 
Carbon said:
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I may be seeing this wrong, but it looks like you have no support on that shock hanger. A couple 3/4" .188" tubes tied into the top of the frame may eliminate a bad day on the trail. That flex will crack the frame. I've made that mistake. Beef it up.
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That is correct lol. Haven't gotten around to fixing that yet. I'm still unf'n a lot of things from the previous owner lol. I keep forgetting to brace the shock mounts. I will say they are placed perfectly, just they are relying on the frame to not peel apart :laughing:

Thank you for the offer for the Dash Pad. I did purchase the overlay from Rock Auto, I just haven't gotten around to addressing the interior yet. On eBay those factory SR5 Dash Panels are crazy expensive!
 
Not a lot of updates. I did install some fancy $40 1.5” Amazon Wheel Spacer’s on the rear. The 36’s were rubbing on the frame and bed. Hopefully this helps that and also gives me a wider stance so I flop less.

I also have been doing some digging on tuning the Propane. I have a real long cold crank, and when I floor it, it feels like it’s bogging down. Base timing is 5°, and it looks like it should be closer to 30° on pane. I may start experimenting with timing.

I also need to start the trans swap.

These spacers appear to be decent quality and fit like a glove.
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Chica wouldn’t move when I tried to take an offset pic, so now she gets to be part of the thread.
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Also, my HF fancy lights both have condensation in them, awesome.
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I’m also thinking about Truggy options. I like this bed idea. Maybe building something similar but that bolts to the factory locations.
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Diablo169 said:
I also have been doing some digging on tuning the Propane. I have a real long cold crank, and when I floor it, it feels like it’s bogging down. Base timing is 5°, and it looks like it should be closer to 30° on pane. I may start experimenting with timing.
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turbo, it needs a turbo

Diablo169 said:
I’m also thinking about Truggy options. I like this bed idea. Maybe building something similar but that bolts to the factory locations.
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sealed cab?
 
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mobil1syn said:
turbo, it needs a turbo



sealed cab?
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Yeah, Turbo may be the direction I go with a home-built manifold, and a Turbo from Got Propane. Originally, I was going to 2RZ swap, but it runs great on propane so far, and the system is really simple.

I guess Truggy isn't the correct term lol, basically it would be a bolt in Tube Bed with the full cab, and I would try to get the propane tanks as low as possible.
 
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