Post up your latest new or used tool purchases

And here it is, some cHiNa tools and drywall screw inserts. Tools I’ll take to the farm.
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My latest tool purchase, gear wrench tap & die holders and ratcheting drivers. Maybe a waste but I liked it enough to pull the trigger on it. I’ve been eyeball fawking it for a couple years now so it wasn’t spur of the moment per se, but it got me in a moment of weakness none the less.
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[486] said:
this just in
snap-on is chinese now
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Some things like cordless crap which I don’t buy but hand tools are made in USA still.

Oh, and if you’re comparing these I listed up same as snap on tools quality, then all hope is lost for you
 
Landslide said:
Some things like cordless crap which I don’t buy but hand tools are made in USA still.

Oh, and if you’re comparing these I listed up same as snap on tools quality, then all hope is lost for you
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the 11/16" 3/8dr deep socket you posted a picture of is snap on is it not
 
I got a Lincoln hose reel ready to install for use in my basement shop. I bought it earlier this year at a swap meet for $50. It had a 1/2” old hose on it so I replaced it with a more usable 3/8” hose.

I installed my go to 3/8” Goodyear 50’ hose. They used to come with coil springs for end relief strains but I guess they quit offering those. I’m super used to them on my fab shop air lines from the early 90’s that I had to seek some down. Well I can tell ya that good luck finding them anymore. You want new rubber FAT as fawk ones -everywhere, spring style? Nope.

So, I stumbled into my hydraulic hose maker guy for some threaded fittings and low n behold, I found what I was looking for. They’re on a one foot semi air hose section. I had to cut the hose end off to remove them. They’re a tiny bit larger but barely noticeable. In the words of forged in fire guys “it will work”.

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Austin, fix your photo insert thing. It keeps rotating my photos 90*. Uuuugh
 
after some paint scraping and cleaning, I think I found out who originally purchased the lathe, looks like it might have been the US Navy? that tracks with the production date of 1941 or 1942 for the lathe. That's kind of cool :) And even cooler that it still works really well as is. :)


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dnsfailure said:
after some paint scraping and cleaning, I think I found out who originally purchased the lathe, looks like it might have been the US Navy? that tracks with the production date of 1941 or 1942 for the lathe. That's kind of cool :) And even cooler that it still works really well as is. :)


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I’ve been eyeball fawking a cream puff Leblond regal for cheap but, it’s a 15” swing with a 7.5 hp 3 phase motor spinning the chuck. I’d have to hunt down a 15 hp 3 phase motor and build another phase converter. Not sure I want to go through the hassle.
 
Landslide said:
I’ve been eyeball fawking a cream puff Leblond regal for cheap but, it’s a 15” swing with a 7.5 hp 3 phase motor spinning the chuck. I’d have to hunt down a 15 hp 3 phase motor and build another phase converter. Not sure I want to go through the hassle.
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the motor on this 20" swing is 8" diameter and 13" long not including the fan guard. Not sure what HP it is, I was not able to find any markings that indicated it's power or even who made the motor. The Regal lathes should have threading capabilities, get it if you can!
 
dnsfailure said:
the motor on this 20" swing is 8" diameter and 13" long not including the fan guard. Not sure what HP it is, I was not able to find any markings that indicated it's power or even who made the motor. The Regal lathes should have threading capabilities, get it if you can!
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I think it’s modern enough for metric threading. We’ll see what I figure out tomor… today some information I’m needing before I make my final decision on it.
 
Landslide said:
I’ve been eyeball fawking a cream puff Leblond regal for cheap but, it’s a 15” swing with a 7.5 hp 3 phase motor spinning the chuck. I’d have to hunt down a 15 hp 3 phase motor and build another phase converter. Not sure I want to go through the hassle.
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There are cheap VFDs out there that will run 7.5hp of 220 single phase. I ran a compressor off one for a while.

Only downside on a lathe is if it's got a clutch on the spindle, you'd pretty much have to start the VFD with the clutch engaged. But it doesn't look like that particular Leblond has a clutch so it'd probably be fine on something like that.


Or just suck it up and get a 40hp rotary like I did so you can run pretty much anything you might stumble in to in the future.
:laughing:
 
bgaidan said:
Only downside on a lathe is if it's got a clutch on the spindle, you'd pretty much have to start the VFD with the clutch engaged.
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why?

looking at it from another angle, if it has a clutch then I'd be wiring up the motor itself with a start cap as a phase converter, that is if you can't manage to get it rolling over with your existing RPC
with no significant load on the motor you're starting you can start a larger motor on a smaller converter, then once the motor's running it'll act as a converter on its own somewhat
I've started a 15hp motor-gen welder with a 10hp idler motor converter
 
^ Yep. Toss a capacitor or two and a start circuit to feed it to the 3rd leg. Easy, ive got many machines set up like that.
 
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Crappy chinese tool day! The floor sweeper works surprisingly good, that helicoil kit was also vevor and is shockingly higher quality than what ive seen lately out of helicoil brand, and it turns out a 130$ induction heater off amazon works just fine. Fedex lady told me to stay off amazon when im drinking:homer:
 
bgaidan said:
VFDs don't like "shock loads". It'll overload and shut down if you try to engage the clutch while the motor is idling with no load on it.
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huh
I'd bet there's a parameter in the menus to get around it
some kinda 'overload delay' sorta deal where it'll just output its max current for a few seconds before tripping out
or maybe even let the frequency dip on load then slowly ramp back up
 
[486] said:
huh
I'd bet there's a parameter in the menus to get around it
some kinda 'overload delay' sorta deal where it'll just output its max current for a few seconds before tripping out
or maybe even let the frequency dip on load then slowly ramp back up
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I dunno, after I let the some out of one, I’ll stick to a rotary I think.

I do have another VFD still I’m gonna put on my 15” powermatic drill press tho as it’ll be the only 3 phase machine in my wood shop
 
bgaidan said:
VFDs don't like "shock loads". It'll overload and shut down if you try to engage the clutch while the motor is idling with no load on it.
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That load will be minimal unless your in some crazy high gear and slam it in. Like 486 said you can set the parameters for it. Its no different than any other operation with variable loads, like a hydraulic ironworker.

Id just make it into its own converter because thats the simple and cheap way.
 
[486] said:
why?

looking at it from another angle, if it has a clutch then I'd be wiring up the motor itself with a start cap as a phase converter, that is if you can't manage to get it rolling over with your existing RPC
with no significant load on the motor you're starting you can start a larger motor on a smaller converter, then once the motor's running it'll act as a converter on its own somewhat
I've started a 15hp motor-gen welder with a 10hp idler motor converter
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So you're saying that if the machine is clutched or otherwise starts without load (like a welder) you can basically ignore the <whatever you are using>'s start rating because the load of the motor you're trying to start is only it's own inertial load rather than rated work load and once it's running it's just a case of keeping the overall load low enough you don't trip overcurrent protection or liquefy whatever you're using to generate 3ph.

So on the RPC side of things:
So you can start a 15hp motor with 10hp start RPC but you gotta keep it under 10hp continuous output in order to keep the contents of the RPC from becoming liquid. Or am I not understanding that correctly?

And on the VFD side of things:
You can run a 15hp motor with a 10hp VFD so long as it's not starting under load nor will it ever see 15hp in actual use (e.g. belts slip or pumps bypass before that).

Is that correct?
 
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Dethmachinefab said:
That load will be minimal unless your in some crazy high gear and slam it in. Like 486 said you can set the parameters for it. Its no different than any other operation with variable loads, like a hydraulic ironworker.

Id just make it into its own converter because thats the simple and cheap way.
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My previous Colchester 13" Triumph had the Matrix clutch in it and I would run it as mentioned previously. I wired up the original switch to operate the Fwd/Rev of the motor itself, and fire up that first. It would sit there with the motor running at operating speed, and then I could either bang the clutch in when it was in sub 500 RPM or if it was higher, I could feather it in. It wouldn't "slip" much at all either. I ran it that way for many many years and never had to adjust the clutch at all. It was really nice for doing fine single point threading up to a shoulder. I wish my big Mascot Mammoth had the clutch instead of the headstock brake as those were either / or options for the machine.

Oh, and my big dumb Cinci no 2 is the same. It has a 10 HP motor, with a clutch. Same deal. The only time the VFD went into overload protection was when I had it set to the highest speed and didn't feather it in.
 
[486] said:
huh
I'd bet there's a parameter in the menus to get around it
some kinda 'overload delay' sorta deal where it'll just output its max current for a few seconds before tripping out
or maybe even let the frequency dip on load then slowly ramp back up
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What parameter are you suggesting?

I've tried it on multiple VFDs and multiple machines. Sometimes you can feather it to make it work, but it's not going to consistently work and it's going to trip more often than not.


Dethmachinefab said:
That load will be minimal unless your in some crazy high gear and slam it in. Like 486 said you can set the parameters for it. Its no different than any other operation with variable loads, like a hydraulic ironworker.

Id just make it into its own converter because thats the simple and cheap way.
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Dunno. I've tried it on a couple machines I've had over the years and it was always far more likely to trip than not. Last thing I tried it on was the Cinci Hydrashift I sold last year. 3hp motor. They'll run fine with no load, and trip if you rapidly engage the clutch like you would under normal operation. If you feather the clutch and let it slowly spin up, you can sometimes get it to run. Certainly not an ideal way to run a clutched machine. Even tried it with oversized VFDs and they all performed the same.

I kind of suspect that a hydraulic pump like on a iron worker would not be on a VFD either, unless the hydraulic system had some type of accumulator or something to help cushion out the shock load.



My flywheel ironworker will make my little rotary angry if I just hammer the start button, but if I bump it a couple times to get the flywheel moving a bit, it'll spin right up. The big rotary has no problem with it.
 
Are you going into the menu and setting up motor FLA? Example an Allen Bradley Powerflex will trip with 150% of FLA for 60 seconds or 200% for 3 seconds.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Are you going into the menu and setting up motor FLA? Example an Allen Bradley Powerflex will trip with 150% of FLA for 60 seconds or 200% for 3 seconds.
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Yep. Tried maxing HP, amps, any setting that would have made it think it had a bigger motor load attached to it than it actually did.

I assumed this was a pretty well known thing about VFDs. To to some of the machinist/machinery forms and FB groups and you'll see lots of people reporting the same.
 
I remember have to set a torque curve for fans and convoy belts on VFD’s or they would over load.
 
There is an option in one of the menus somewhere. I put a new vfd on a 30hp vibrator feeder. Damn thing kept faulting out on startup. Called up the vfd guru and he had me change some random parameters and then it started up just fine. I was in a hurry so I was just doing what I was told and did not make notes.
 
cj3a said:
I remember have to set a torque curve for fans and convoy belts on VFD’s or they would over load.
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ThePanzerFuhrer said:
There is an option in one of the menus somewhere. I put a new vfd on a 30hp vibrator feeder. Damn thing kept faulting out on startup. Called up the vfd guru and he had me change some random parameters and then it started up just fine. I was in a hurry so I was just doing what I was told and did not make notes.
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That's usually the ramp up....i.e. bring the frequency/speed up slowly instead of just hitting it with full go from the start. If I put on on the flywheel ironworker, I'm sure I'll need to put in a nice slow ramp.
 
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