Broken SD 60 balljoints

Did the lower joint shear and then just unhinge the top joint? or are both joints separated?
 
fawk around and find out.

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Makes for a long day.

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Did the lower joint shear and then just unhinge the top joint? or are both joints separated?
I truly don’t know. I’m just looking at junk the tow truck dragged in. Both of those trucks are for a different area/group than I’m in.
 
Zoomed in I can see both ball joints are fully intact, nothing sheared that I can see.

Both ball joint got so worn and popped out during a bounce if I have to guess
Upon further inspection you are correct. I believe it to be impossible to break the U-joint or the shaft on these trucks with stockish size tires on them. Both of them have broken joints/shaft ears. I don’t know which came first oddly parted ball joint’s and took out the shaft.

Or. More likely. Ran worn out u-joints to long the shafts came apart and like anything the shaft ears trying to run over each other pushes the knuckle off. We NEVER unlock our hubs. I want to be able to turn the 4wd knob when I hit dirt without getting out of the truck to lock or unlock hubs. The factory joints are pretty guaranteed to be dry and destroyed by 100K miles doing this. I got mine replaced at 103K and the drivers side was squalling, caps were bone dry and rollers had turned to powder. If I had kept pushing the joint to failure I could see it knocking the knuckle off because on the 11 up both BJ’s are in the same direction, load bearing.
 
I truly don’t know. I’m just looking at junk the tow truck dragged in. Both of those trucks are for a different area/group than I’m in.
You guys send those trucks to auction or what does the company do when done?
 
You guys send those trucks to auction or what does the company do when done?
They’re up for auction now. No link , employees only. Over priced for trashed junk trucks. I’d go buy a 400K mile truck from Texas before I’d buy one of these with 150k.
 
They’re up for auction now. No link , employees only. Over priced for trashed junk trucks. I’d go buy a 400K mile truck from Texas before I’d buy one of these with 150k.
Damn, a single cab 6.2 e locker truck that was beat and cheap seems cool to throw 40s on and wheel. Like a modern k30 single cab.
 
2005 F550 vs tree. Tree won and pushed the ball joint inward and up. Stretched the pocket but the BJE should still work. A role of Tesa harness tape held it together to wheel out. Looking at Nick Barna BJE. Does he make them for everyone else?

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2005 F550 vs tree. Tree won and pushed the ball joint inward and up. Stretched the pocket but the BJE should still work. A role of Tesa harness tape held it together to wheel out. Looking at Nick Barna BJE. Does he make them for everyone else?

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These were the prblems i remember seeing in this style (sliding upper seat ) bj setups.

Either the bottom of the c were collapsing or the upper bj was falling and the seat would climb up in its bore.

Ive seen a couple of CRASHED sd axles that have seperated the bjs and lost a knuckle but not a dd or wheeler (in person).
 
I’d go this route if I was to do it again.

 
Not sure why the picture is sideways, but this was a 05+ knuckle on a buggy with 42" treps. BJE on top, but stock lower BJ. Broke it night wheeling or bombing around at KOH this year, he didn't even notice until i pointed out the extra camber as he pulled into camp. We aren't sure what did the damage, but having the upper BJE sure helped keep it together, it could have been a lot worse.
 

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Not sure why the picture is sideways, but this was a 05+ knuckle on a buggy with 42" treps. BJE on top, but stock lower BJ. Broke it night wheeling or bombing around at KOH this year, he didn't even notice until i pointed out the extra camber as he pulled into camp. We aren't sure what did the damage, but having the upper BJE sure helped keep it together, it could have been a lot worse.
That’s a good example of the strength of that style BJE.
 
I’d go this route if I was to do it again.

Do they make a 550 variant?
 
The 2005 550 has bigger lower and upper ball joints. The 550 weld in slug is bigger for the BJE but the 1.25” shoulder bolt is same diameter. Not sure if the bushing is same diameter or not.
 
Does anyone make a laser plate style inner and outer C? Seems like it would be pretty easy to fabricate the whole thing. The amount of fab work I have in the high steer and brakes and balljoint eliminators is probably more than making a set from laser’d plate. Or if someone has some cad files.
Ground up with caliper tabs, flanged brass bushings, and high steer.
 
How is it possible to have a joint like this be properly welded through? Or is it not and these are crap?

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Maybe dovetail, otherwise that will not work.
 
Price isn’t bad, but I think all the Trail Gear stuff comes from china. The design doesn’t look that strong either. I was thinking more plate and welding vs. machine work.
Also should be bushings not ball joints and tapers that need to be deleted.
 
I’d go this route if I was to do it again.

why? what do you like about them maybe i asked allready cant remember
 
Does anyone make a laser plate style inner and outer C? Seems like it would be pretty easy to fabricate the whole thing. The amount of fab work I have in the high steer and brakes and balljoint eliminators is probably more than making a set from laser’d plate. Or if someone has some cad files.
Ground up with caliper tabs, flanged brass bushings, and high steer.
I had played around a bit with this. Thinking of making my own and getting away from BJs. I don't think any of this is actually strong enough though. The side plates probably need to be 3/8 and not the 1/4 that is modeled. I attempted to do some FEA type analysis but that was a bit beyond my current knowledge and this is a complex model to learn that on. Uses some 7/8 bore uniballs instead of BJs so they might not be any better than BJs. I guess you could use some sort of flanged bearing instead, but getting it all to line up after welding would be challenging, or you post machine it. Was thinking of using 05+ unit bearing and 1550 shafts of course. In the end, and 05+ axle for $500 is pretty cheap and other than the BJs gives you all of that anyways. Upper BJ eliminators aren't that expensive and not even entirely necessary for a lot of situations.
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lower bolt needs to be parallel to the ground, with the upper perpendicular to the ground for max monoball longevity. bolts parallel to the ground are better than perpendicular if you have to pick on one.

my homies at alliedfab built these and then took it up a notch with billet

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