Crazy4ih’s Scout 64 Scout 80

Great question. Honestly, I didn’t even realize it was gone until it was in my truck bed. I was so excited about getting it for the price I did that I overlooked it. And the seller didn’t mention it until I pointed it out. He offered to find me a new case for it and I tried to take him up on the deal but our schedules never lined up and then he ghosted me. I have thought about making a piece and having someone weld it on but I am not sure how much strength it will add.
 
crazy4ih said:
Great question. Honestly, I didn’t even realize it was gone until it was in my truck bed. I was so excited about getting it for the price I did that I overlooked it. And the seller didn’t mention it until I pointed it out. He offered to find me a new case for it and I tried to take him up on the deal but our schedules never lined up and then he ghosted me. I have thought about making a piece and having someone weld it on but I am not sure how much strength it will add.
Click to expand...
Just watching Ian's big tire fire on YT and he cracked his turbo 400 bell and cut it off and used a SFI scatter shield that bolts to the trans with the pump bolts up front. Didn't mention cost but prob far more than you paid for trans.
 
Winchested said:
Just watching Ian's big tire fire on YT and he cracked his turbo 400 bell and cut it off and used a SFI scatter shield that bolts to the trans with the pump bolts up front. Didn't mention cost but prob far more than you paid for trans.
Click to expand...
I'll have to take a look.
 
Is that a 4L80? If so, then the ultrabell isn't an option. Personally, I'd clean it up with a flap wheel and run it.
 
greenlion said:
Is that a 4L80? If so, then the ultrabell isn't an option. Personally, I'd clean it up with a flap wheel and run it.
Click to expand...
Considering this is 14 year old tech

4L80E SFI bellhousings and conversions - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Automatic Transmission - 4L80E SFI bellhousings and conversions - We are now setup to install aftemarket SFI bellhousings for Chevy or other applications such as Mod Motor Fords, BB Chryslers and Fords, etc. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/photo.jpg...
ls1tech.com

It can be done.
 
Putting the body on your frame by yourself using two engine hoists and a couple hydraulic carts in 104° heat sucks. 1 out of 10 do not recommend. At least now I can mock up new front mounts (old ones were bent) and tubing for the front end.


IMG_9252.jpeg

IMG_9253.jpeg

IMG_9254.jpeg
 
I got the 37" rollers mounted on the beadlocks and installed. Since I moved the rear axle back, the rear fenders needed trimming just to mount the wheels/tires. I'm not done trimming as it looks like ass currently. I may end up going with early Bronco cut out flares, not sure yet. The whole passenger rear quarter is mostly a mix of filler, jb weld and1/8" plate used as a patch panel. I am afraid to strip it all down to see what it really looks like under all the filler


. IMG_9311.jpeg

IMG_9312.jpeg
 
Has anyone on here boat-sided their Scout 80/800? Or have a link to anyone who has?
 
More slow progress. Rebuilt the EcoBox with the 32 spline input shaft for the 4L80 and bolted it and the 205 case in. Had to cut the trans tunnel a little to be able to install the 205. I still need to swap the internals over from the fig.8 small bearing 205 i have. Now i can set the pinion angle on the rear axle and get the perches welded up. The drivelines are going to be a bit longer than I first thought so that is good. Over the next couple months I hope to mock up the engine tube work and rock sliders. Then I’ll take the body back off, clean up the frame and fully weld everything.

still need:
Engine and trans control
Radiator
Exhaust
Wiring
Axle regear? (Currently 5.37 with 37’s)
Tube work/rollcage
interior/dash
Finish bodywork
Brake/fuel lines
Hydro assist/steering
Hydroboost
Driveshafts

So lots of work still ahead. IMG_9744.jpeg


IMG_9737.jpeg


IMG_9741.jpeg
 
I'd keep the 5.38s with the auto. The 4L80s first gear is trash.

Curious what you want to do for trans control, I was thinking of doing the stand alone with lock up switch for OD one day. Or spend the $1k on the reverse manual valve body. But then you need a $400+ shifter too.

I'm not sure I can bring myself to pull the NV4500 out yet lol.
 
Winchested said:
I'd keep the 5.38s with the auto. The 4L80s first gear is trash.

Curious what you want to do for trans control, I was thinking of doing the stand alone with lock up switch for OD one day. Or spend the $1k on the reverse manual valve body. But then you need a $400+ shifter too.

I'm not sure I can bring myself to pull the NV4500 out yet lol.
Click to expand...

Not sure yet. Favoring Holley terminator X with trans control. Would love to do reverse manual valve body and already have the $$$ shifter. But I am trying to be cheapish. If that is such a thing. Probably change it up when I break the 44’s and swap to 1-tons.
 
I am not a body man. I have done sheet metal once in my life and this rear quarter is winning. It looks better than the big gaping hole that was there but I keep blowing holes in the metal since my gap is too big.

Took a break from that and got the wild horses fender flares installed. I fubar’d the passenger rear placement a bit and it doesn’t go to the bottom of the quarter. I’ll probably fix that bcz it’s going to piss me off. I also started mocking up the rocksliders and have one side cut and tacked up. I’ll clean up the tubing before I weld it up. :shaking:

So some progress but nothing 100% complete.




IMG_9841.jpeg IMG_9840.jpeg IMG_0053.jpeg IMG_0052.jpeg IMG_9838.jpeg IMG_9839.jpeg IMG_0054.jpeg IMG_0051.jpeg
 
crazy4ih said:
IMG_9841.jpeg IMG_9840.jpeg IMG_0053.jpeg IMG_0052.jpeg IMG_9838.jpeg IMG_9839.jpeg IMG_0054.jpeg IMG_0051.jpeg
Click to expand...

Nice Bronco!

Those EB flares are comparatively plentiful.. and probably a jumbo size option out there, too.

I've been tempted more than a few times, but that looks pretty good on a Scout 80/800. Jetfxr ran them on his Scout II, too.
 
tsm1mt said:
Nice Bronco!

Those EB flares are comparatively plentiful.. and probably a jumbo size option out there, too.

I've been tempted more than a few times, but that looks pretty good on a Scout 80/800. Jetfxr ran them on his Scout II, too.
Click to expand...
Yeah, i wanted to do some type of a metal flare or tubing like I have seen done oh IHPA builds or Old Iron Off Road's rockcrawler, but the truth is these quarters are so ratty that i dont want to mess with it. these will get bashed up and I'll be fine with it. I ordered the 2" flares but maybe should have gone with the wider ones.
 
Someone talk me out of putting the axles/wheels/tires from this under my Scout.
05+ super duty axles, e-lockers, 42” pitbulls, full hydro, ORI’s in front. All I can think of is the poor scout frame.
IMG_0212.jpeg
 
crazy4ih said:
Someone talk me out of putting the axles/wheels/tires from this under my Scout.
05+ super duty axles, e-lockers, 42” pitbulls, full hydro, ORI’s in front. All I can think of is the poor scout frame.
IMG_0212.jpeg
Click to expand...
Get it running and driving first.

If you get too ambitious you will never drive it. Build your own custom chassis with all those parts and drop the scout body on it eventually when you are ready.
 
I'd say thay poor boxed scout frame is stouter than that S10 frame. A few 1/8- 3/16" plates in the right places on the scout frame will. Make it plenty string where you weld in your link mounts.
 
No real updates. Finished welding up my rock sliders a couple weekends ago and about to buy a new wire harness. I haven't decided what brand. Painless, Kwik Wire, or ??? I am also ordering a fuel pump. I am running a 15 gallon CJ fuel tank. Anyone have any experience with the Novak in tank fuel pump for Gen 3+ Swaps? Its about $150 less than the Holley version.

www.novak-adapt.com

Gen III+ In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit for Jeep CJ (1972-1986) | Novak Conversions

Novak’s Gen III+ in-tank fuel pump system provides clean, reliable EFI fuel delivery for LS / Vortec Jeep swaps. Available for 15, 20, and 21-gallon CJ tanks, with or without regulator.
www.novak-adapt.com www.novak-adapt.com

I also really need to decide on Terminator X engine management or PSI conversions. I don't have the time or really want to cut down my own wiring harness. all this should be ordered in the next couple weeks.
 
crazy4ih said:
No real updates. Finished welding up my rock sliders a couple weekends ago and about to buy a new wire harness. I haven't decided what brand. Painless, Kwik Wire, or ??? I am also ordering a fuel pump. I am running a 15 gallon CJ fuel tank. Anyone have any experience with the Novak in tank fuel pump for Gen 3+ Swaps? Its about $150 less than the Holley version.

www.novak-adapt.com

Gen III+ In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit for Jeep CJ (1972-1986) | Novak Conversions

Novak’s Gen III+ in-tank fuel pump system provides clean, reliable EFI fuel delivery for LS / Vortec Jeep swaps. Available for 15, 20, and 21-gallon CJ tanks, with or without regulator.
www.novak-adapt.com www.novak-adapt.com

I also really need to decide on Terminator X engine management or PSI conversions. I don't have the time or really want to cut down my own wiring harness. all this should be ordered in the next couple weeks.
Click to expand...
I run a modified suburban pump in mine. You either have to extend or shorten the sending unit an inch or two and modify the tank slightly, been a few years but there is some stuff in my thread about it.
 
I used this for my C-series build. GM Clamp Style Fuel Pump Mounting Ring (Large Diameter) . lets me use an off-the-shelf fuel pump from a generic GM of various flavors depending on tank depth


Terminator X has a sale going on right now. I'm going aftermarket harness + OEM PCM tune on my build, for better or worse. I'd like to keep the OEM reliability and CEL/code reading ability mainly. The Holley stuff is EVERYWHERE but I don't love how it's limited in the fault reading features

that being said, I've had the Terminator in my cart a half dozen times. I'm $300 into an aftermarket LS harness, and still have another $300+ for the PCM tune. Had I not bought the harness I'd probably have ordered the Holley to get it running faster. ****, I still may convince myself to
 
Quick update and a question at the end

I bought a house and just finished moving, so a lot of my Scout funds went into the down payment, some concrete work, and general new house BS. Looked at a house with a 30x40 shop but it went for well above asking price and was just out of my reach at the original asking :bawling:. Still ended up with a 3 car garage and room on the side of the house to tinker. Side yard is 10ft wide, so not quite big enough to call RV parking.

Anyways, once the garage is cleared out from the move and I actually have room to work, I'll be adding some electrical upgrades so I can use my welder on 220v again and also install the mini-split I installed at from the other house. I have enough parts and work I can still do on the Scout in the meantime without having to buy anything new right now, which should keep my weekends occupied.

I do have a question on the power steering box. I have a Scout II box that is in need of a rebuild. I was going to send it in to Red Top and have it rebuilt and ported for hydraulic assist. Is the Scout II box still a decent option or is something better I should be looking at? I am planning hydro assist and hydro boost brakes.
 
crazy4ih said:
Quick update and a question at the end

I bought a house and just finished moving, so a lot of my Scout funds went into the down payment, some concrete work, and general new house BS. Looked at a house with a 30x40 shop but it went for well above asking price and was just out of my reach at the original asking :bawling:. Still ended up with a 3 car garage and room on the side of the house to tinker. Side yard is 10ft wide, so not quite big enough to call RV parking.

Anyways, once the garage is cleared out from the move and I actually have room to work, I'll be adding some electrical upgrades so I can use my welder on 220v again and also install the mini-split I installed at from the other house. I have enough parts and work I can still do on the Scout in the meantime without having to buy anything new right now, which should keep my weekends occupied.

I do have a question on the power steering box. I have a Scout II box that is in need of a rebuild. I was going to send it in to Red Top and have it rebuilt and ported for hydraulic assist. Is the Scout II box still a decent option or is something better I should be looking at? I am planning hydro assist and hydro boost brakes.
Click to expand...
I'm running a 78 Scout II box still good. Not a ton of options for forward swing boxes.

I just went back to vacuum asisst. I felt the steering suffered too much with hydroboost low speed crawling.
 
I'm also using a Scout II box on a crawler. It was rebuilt and ported by redneck ram. Work Fine, no issues, but Scout II boxes are becoming near unobtainium if replacement is a concern for you.

On the fuel pump thing, I have used the FiTech drop in modules 50017 Go Fuel In-Tank Regulated Pump 255 LPH - successfully on a couple of projects, but making a factory GM setup work may make for easier replacements if you need one while on the road. Peruse this thread Fuel cell maintenance with multiple Walbro pickups
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh