Can a zuki be a moon buggie

SLOWPOKE693 said:
100"wb Samurai on 35s.....

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Are you positive that was a 100" and not 90"? stock samurai is 80" and that just does not look stretched 20"

My buddy's TJ looks similar as far as stretched withing the body, it's 99"

To get to the 104 in my samurai I stretch the frame about 8 in front and rear. The tire was beyond the hood and at the tailgate that was 8" further back than stock.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Are you positive that was a 100" and not 90"? stock samurai is 80" and that just does not look stretched 20"

My buddy's TJ looks similar as far as stretched withing the body, it's 99"

To get to the 104 in my samurai I stretch the frame about 8 in front and rear. The tire was beyond the hood and at the tailgate that was 8" further back than stock.
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Frame was cut and rebuilt front and rear. Front at the firewall, rear right where the stock rear floor stepped up. Rear quarters i made are much longer than stock and the steering box was way forward. I had to cut the nose around it to get the clearance I wanted. If it wasn't 100", it was very close. Maybe 98" Customer I built it for had the 100" wb number in mind and street legal in CT which requires a full body.
 
We wheeled with these guys at Twin Mountian a few weeks ago. Both of these rigs got down in the big rocks and climbed some crazy ****. Neither one had a low belly height or had less than a 100" WB.

Forgot to add the picture :homer:

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SLOWPOKE693 said:
We wheeled with these guys at Twin Mountian a few weeks ago. Both of these rigs got down in the big rocks and climbed some crazy ****. Neither one had a low belly height or had less than a 100" WB.
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My heep is 101” and I’ve stood it up on the spare tire on the east coast. I think 105 with water in the front will be fine.

Sick tube work,
 
Byro has a buddy who ran a rear steer Toyota axle for almost a decade problem free on 37” stickies. Chased 42” buggies all over Wellsville. So a rear steer Toyota axle can work….is it a great use of money? No, probably not.

This was from SLOWPOKE693 on page 1.
 
FleshEater said:
Byro has a buddy who ran a rear steer Toyota axle for almost a decade problem free on 37” stickies. Chased 42” buggies all over Wellsville. So a rear steer Toyota axle can work….is it a great use of money? No, probably not.

This was from SLOWPOKE693 on page 1.
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He got a smoking deal on it partially finished. Ram it for a few seasons then sold it for a wash. Now he’s building Trail Gear 8s with JHF boxes for the same buggy. For a full on rock ****er it should be pretty neat.
 
Byro said:
He got a smoking deal on it partially finished. Ram it for a few seasons then sold it for a wash. Now he’s building Trail Gear 8s with JHF boxes for the same buggy. For a full on rock ****er it should be pretty neat.
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In those FEW SEASONS he ran it, how well did the rear axle hold up?
 
$1200 shafts in a $1200 axle would be hard to justify in my mind. Especially seeing as both axles are currently equipped with old school longfields and cromo shafts.
 
Mine is a 2-seater not a moon buggy. But it's 2.0 Zuk powered and 105" WB, 18" belly at ride height on 39.5 stickies. Yota axles, doubler, etc.

Roof is lower than my wife's stock KRX.

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SLOWPOKE693 said:
$1200 shafts in a $1200 axle would be hard to justify in my mind. Especially seeing as both axles are currently equipped with old school longfields and cromo shafts.
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That's my hang up with them, cost. If someone actually sat down and ran numbers it's more expensive to fully build a Toyota axle than it is to build a decent 9" or 60.
 
Bebop said:
You're crazy
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I would bet money that stock SD60 shafts are stronger than $1200 Toyota RCV's.... And so are the stock knuckles.... And so are the R&P's....

If you don't have to replace 3/4 of the parts in the axle to make them live behind a 2.0 and 6-1 transfer case how are they not cheaper to build? We are not talking about U4 or rock bouncer strength axles here.
 
The dana tubes would need shortened so custom shafts, full float of course so slugs. And a disc with park brake conversion.
 
crisbee1 said:
The dana tubes would need shortened so custom shafts, full float of course so slugs.
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Why do we need to cut tubes and make it so it needs custom axles?

And aren't stock SD60 shafts resplinable if you needed to go that route?

Toyota axles need drive slugs too
 
Bebop said:
You're crazy
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I'm talking very budget friendly. Not fancy stuff.

Have you seen the way Adam wende builds? Home made center sections, $100-250 94-02 dodge outters, 3rds can be built for $800 or less. Lower end chromos hold up well with 100hp.

If you want even cheaper, keep the dodge D60 center.
 
D60 stock shaft will snap at the ujoint quick as anything else. Think I have 8k in the rear 60 on my buggie
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Why do we need to cut tubes and make it so it needs custom axles?

And aren't stock SD60 shafts resplinable if you needed to go that route?

Toyota axles need drive slugs too
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iirc a Dana 60 is somewhere around 68'' wms to wms,
ok, respline.
yes, toy slug kits are same price basically.
 
Form&function said:
D60 stock shaft will snap at the ujoint quick as anything else. Think I have 8k in the rear 60 on my buggie
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Form&function said:
Weight is the problem,gotta pay to play no matter what axle you have.
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Which is why I mentioned a fab 9" center, not to mention, axles are where you want wieght if you have to add some.

crisbee1 said:
iirc a Dana 60 is somewhere around 68'' wms to wms,
ok, respline.
yes, toy slug kits are same price basically.
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60 fronts are typically 69.5 for older and 72 for newer, speaking broadly.

Form&function said:
D60 sucks
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Stock 30 spline stubs are nothing to brag about. But I'm sure you know 35 sp is super easy.

I think bone stock D60 35sp shafts are roughly comparable to toyota Rcv's.
 
Toyotas actually are not very expensive to build anymore. Most guys are selling off all their old stuff cheap. Key is to build behind the fads.

Toyotas are not cool anymore so parts are becoming more affordable.

By the time I build tons everyone should be on portals or 9’s making my tons parts cheaper. YMMV :flipoff2:
 
FleshEater said:
Toyotas actually are not very expensive to build anymore. Most guys are selling off all their old stuff cheap. Key is to build behind the fads.

Toyotas are not cool anymore so parts are becoming more affordable.

By the time I build tons everyone should be on portals or 9’s making my tons parts cheaper. YMMV :flipoff2:
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That's the other side of it. IF you can find decent used stuff.

I still feel like you could retube a dodge cad D60, gears, locker and chromo for cheaper though.

But, I still don't think there is any wrong with Toyota axles for rigs like ops and yours. Start talking full polish rear steer axle and it's hard to pencil out.

If one really wanted a rear steer Toyota, I'd be looking at a land cruiser axle for the bigger 3rd.
 
Toyota stuff isn't all that plentiful anymore and when/if you find used stuff for sale it's usually pricey. Dude has a pair of built yota axles on FB Marketplace near me right now for $5500. :eek:
 
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