Shop Addition - I don't know what I am doing.

Talon2006

Talon2006

Yellow Skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
282
Messages
530
I bought this building a month ago and I want to add on a side shed and enclose the front carport. I am ready to start framing out the front carport, and side building addition. I spent some time today in Solidworks drawling it up. For the most part the framing is pretty simple to me. Putting the panel up is semi simple, I am just not well versed in trimming out the edges.

First part, Side addition to hold compressors, ****ter and maybe a office or two.
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First part is compressor shed on the side. It is 60'x12'. If I can only get the roof on it that would be ok for now. I might partion off the front part to put the laser dust collector up there and separate it from the air compressors.
1741035751845.png



Current Materials List (let me know if it looks off)
14-20' 4x4x.188 steel square tubes for columns and 10x10 roll up door.
15 20' 6" C Purlin for roof
18 20' 4" C purling for walls

Total price for materials for the frame is 4200
I am making my own floor plates and purlin clips from scrap sheet I'm cutting on this weeks production run.

Issue 1

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The main issue I am having trouble figuring out is how to do all the trim, what to order and how much. I have looked at a catalog and think I know what I need, but its hard to wrap my brain around since I have not done it. The roof to existing building is the biggest hurdle for me. The compressor barn at my shop has some type of sticky silver tar paper covering the gap. No leaks so I am going to look for something like that. Above is a image on the internet I found of what I am taking about.

Issue Two: Compressor bar External wall to roof seam. 1. I would like this to look semi professional. 2. I hope it doesn't leak. It seems they make a gutter trim that will slide under the roofing sheeting, and give me both. Is it really that simple? It seems like it should be harder.

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If I do not use gutters, it seems like this is the appropriate trim to hide the wall to roof seam.

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Issue 3, making sure I order the correct length sheets for the majority. I know the sides I will have to cut the top to match the slop. But for the front face...

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From the floor slab to the top of the last C purlin is 150.25". Note I am not using the correct form for C purlins as solid works doesn't have them but it should be close. I have a 1" lip around the slab for the sheet to sit in. I am assuming if I order sheets that are 151.25" long they should stop just below the roof overhang, and fit perfectly. This is something I might measure out after I do the roof.... but anyone have some experience in this to know if I am right?

Question 4: I know at my current steel building the 4 corners are .188 4x4 square tubing. I am debating if I want to just do the 4 corners in .188, and do the rest in 14 gauge. Also, debating the same for the door frame. I know .188 has a better chance against a forklift bump then 14 gauge....


I think I am going to make a separate post for the carport cover in.
 
Need to cut the wall tin and put a flashing that the lean to roof slides under.
 
Last edited:
For roof to existing wall.

You need to do something like Option 2 (2min mark) for siding in this video.



But check with the manufacturer. They will have the method to use.
 
For issue #1, with the corrugated siding you typically cut the wall siding and put flashing in under the wall siding and then over the roof. Like this:

Roof to Wall.jpg


You're going to have to cut the siding anyway to tie the roof structure in to the wall framing. You can leave the siding below the roof structure and just cut a strip out.

Issue #2: Yes, it looks like you've found the various eave conditions - with or without a gutter.

Issue #3: I'm not quite clear on this - "I have a 1" lip around the slab for the sheet to sit in." You want the siding to lap past the floor level to seal it off.

Issue #4: Sizing would depend on snow and wind load as well as spacing of supports, among other things.
 
Talon2006 said:
1741036107218.png
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I have this same exact issue with a lean-to I want to add to my shop. The correct way is to remove the siding and cut it at the new lean-to roof line, tuck flashing under the siding over thelean-to roof. But that's a **** ton of work.
Kind of like this:
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]




Muller shows this in their catalog, but I haven't found anyone local that actually carries it. My plan was to put the profiled portion of this on the wall with some roofing sealant goop behind it and then a little more goof over the top of the joint, along with some screws to hold it in place. I figured the good goop would probably last 15-20 years before it would need to be sealed again.

1741125648400.png



If I can find that stuff, it's likely the route I'll go. Pulling the full siding off or trying to cut it in place is a no go for me getting this thing done in any reasonable amount of time.
 
bgaidan said:
I have this same exact issue with a lean-to I want to add to my shop. The correct way is to remove the siding and cut it at the new lean-to roof line, tuck flashing under the siding over thelean-to roof. But that's a **** ton of work.
Kind of like this:
1741125313817.png
]




Muller shows this in their catalog, but I haven't found anyone local that actually carries it. My plan was to put the profiled portion of this on the wall with some roofing sealant goop behind it and then a little more goof over the top of the joint, along with some screws to hold it in place. I figured the good goop would probably last 15-20 years before it would need to be sealed again.

1741125648400.png



If I can find that stuff, it's likely the route I'll go. Pulling the full siding off or trying to cut it in place is a no go for me getting this thing done in any reasonable amount of time.
Click to expand...
I think that is what is on my current setup at the house. It works well.
 

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Talon2006 said:
I think that is what is on my current setup at the house. It works well.
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Sweet. That's the first time actually seen a real pic of someone using it like that.

Technically not "right" and not the way I'd do it if I were building from scratch, but I think it'll be fine for the application. Just another maintenance item that you might need to climb up there every 10 years or so and paint on a little more roof sealant on the top of the joint.

Now I just need to find someone that sells that stuff near me.
 
bgaidan said:
Sweet. That's the first time actually seen a real pic of someone using it like that.

Technically not "right" and not the way I'd do it if I were building from scratch, but I think it'll be fine for the application. Just another maintenance item that you might need to climb up there every 10 years or so and paint on a little more roof sealant on the top of the joint.

Now I just need to find someone that sells that stuff near me.
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Can you see my photos?
 
bgaidan said:
Yup.

All the people that can't see them are black skulls. Guessing you copied and pasted from the park and it's linking the photos from the vs new uploads to this thread.
Click to expand...

I think you are right.
 
Go talk to a local lumber yard. They'll know the brand of siding/roof and can get all the compatible flashing.
 
Silicone is not the product for a roof... look at polyurethane sealant... but I still wouldn't rely on it for what you're doing... it needs to be flashed in a way that gravity does the work.
 
FC4X4 said:
Silicone is not the product for a roof... look at polyurethane sealant... but I still wouldn't rely on it for what you're doing... it needs to be flashed in a way that gravity does the work.
Click to expand...

I'd normally agree, but for what he's doing and what I plan to do with my similar setup, a good sealant will be fine and a few drips making it in here and there isn't going to hurt anything.

I'd look at one of the elastomeric sealants. Even something like they use on RV membrane roofs. I'm not up to speed on all the products, but I've seen stuff that's thick enough to stay on a vertical joint like that while it sets up and that stuff will last years without cracking or failing.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I agree, but his roof in the south doesn't have to deal with 1/10th the abuse yours does in Alaska.
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Having spent way too much time and money fixing 2 shop roofs done poorly, I won't cheap on a roof.

Maybe for a chicken coop or garden tools shed where if it leaks, oh well, but in a shop it really suck having stuff ruined cause you forgot about the leak areas.
 
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