Maxi Trac compressor mods and OBA build

wvracer821

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After watching the Dirt Lifestyle series on YouTube I decided to document my own Maxi Trac compressor mods. Mostly this is just ****ing around to see what this thing can do.
If you’re not familiar with this compressor, here is the Napa link.

Link to dirt lifestyle videos for reference



This compressor is sold under many names. Vevor from amazon seems to be the cheapest and the MorrFlate unite seems to be the best out of the box. Here’s the link for the MorrFlate and the Vevor for reference. NEVERLIFT just picked up the Vevor one for his truck so we can do some testing when I’m done to see if any of this was worth the effort.



I purchased this compressor when they first hit Napa shelves a while back and it’s been living in my toolbox of my daily driver since then for the occasional tire fill up. My plan is full on board air build for my daily driver tow rig. This should do much better than my little Dewalt inflator which struggles to get my 37s back up to street pressure.

This thing is cool but it has its downfalls which I’ll outline.
Heat… it gets ****ing hot which is related to other things below
No pressure cut off, when you flip the switch, it just runs constantly. (MorrFlate has a pressure cutoff)
Small outlet. Even though its got 2 compressor heads, they are tied together and the single outlet is only 1/8 NPT
Stupid fittings. The hose that comes with it has a stupid fitting and coupler that doesn’t match anything else that’s available. Plus, the gauge included is worthless if the compressor is running.
False claims of output. 10.6 CFM seems ambitious and is likely just calculated based off cylinder volume and RPM. (I’d like to tear down the MorrFlate and see how the internals compare)
Impractical output. A single valve stem can’t flow nearly enough air to utilize the output. MorrFlate specifically states that this is to be used for their multiple tire inflation setups.

I will be setting this up with a pressure cutoff off and a small tank in my toolbox to limit the pressure and also give the thing a break if I’m doing tires one at a time.

I started by tearing it down to see what I was working with. Although I had a good idea after watching some videos.

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Typical Chinese manufacturing and so much grease inside all over everything.
Next step was opening up the intake side of things with a die grinder. You can see the difference I made here.

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You can see the actual air intake is very small through the little slots.

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Next, I opened up the air filter holder and I took a UNI fourwheeler filter that I had laying around and cut out new filter elements. First pic shows the whole filter holder in virgin form

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My next plan of attack was the intake and discharge reeds. I drilled the holes in the plate bigger and kept the factory reeds but at one point I was using an old feeler gauge to make a larger reed until I realized I didn’t want to sacrifice all my 0.060” feelers for this dumb project.
I opened up the intake holes from 17/64” to 11/32” and the discharge holes from 13/64”to 17/64”. Looking back I would have stopped at 1/4” on the discharge holes because I had to glue the O-Rings in after removing too much material. You can see the modified plate on the right and the difference in the discharge holes which is the bottom set.
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Other side of the unmodified plate and the O-Rings mentioned previously

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I greased everything up and reassembled but I turned the discharges to one side to make OBA plumbing easier when the time comes. This is when I found that the discharge holes are not 1/4” NPT like I thought. I plan to drill and tap them to 3/8” NPT so I can use normal fittings. But it does pump air and it’s loud as hell. I will gather some more parts and continue this. I want to get some test data at some point. I am very aware that this is mostly useless and the compressor would have been just fine in factory form but whatever, I’m always in for a side quest.
I also would like to drill some holes in between the heat sink fins since they don’t actually touch the cylinder. It can’t hurt to add some air flow to the system.

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I just bought a similar compressor off Amazon not too long ago.


I took all the circuit board bull**** off and ran the wires to some junction blocks mounted to the case so I can power it off a big continuous duty relay and have a pressure switch wired in to cut it off when it gets up to pressure. Will plumb it into a few gallon tank I have mounted on my pickup already. I currently have a Viair on there. Was one compressor out of a twin pack, can't remember the model number.

The tank tees off to each side of my flatbed with a quick connect fitting. Also wanting to put some air bags on the rear axle, so I'll have to somehow use a couple solenoid valves to fill and dump the bags, and probably run a pressure gauge and switches up to the cab so I can see wtf is going on with them.

EDIT: I also took the rubber output hose and barb fitting off of it and screwed on a braided stainless hose with a check valve that I had from another 12v compressor. I hooked it up to a jump pack and checked with a clamp meter to see how many amps it was pulling. The most I was able to get it to draw was around 73 amps or so. On this pickup I also want to run a pretty beefy hot cable (probably 1/0) to the rear of the flatbed for powering a liftgate and to hook up to my gooseneck winch and maybe even my dump trailer to charge them/run them off the pickup battery and alternator. So I will more than likely tie into that to power the compressor.
 
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I’ve got a similar situation. I’ve got bags for my truck when towing because I’m running aftermarket coils that are soft as ****. Right now they are manual fill which is fine but a couple years ago on the way to KOH I developed a leak in one of the bags. Filling it every fuel stop was a pain in the ass. If I had air control it would have just kept the bag full.
 
I’ve got a similar situation. I’ve got bags for my truck when towing because I’m running aftermarket coils that are soft as ****.

I haul 3500-4000lbs on the flatbed very regularly in the winter hauling hay around. I've added a couple leaves to the rear pack, but she could probably still use a little air bag assistance at times.
 
Sub'd.

I need something to run the lockers on my newest rig. These look way more appealing to the wallet than another Viair.


FYI - looks like the Vevor one is $107 right now if you register an account with them.
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I was up in the shop messing around after work for a few minutes and trying to plan out some plumbing for this project. I removed the heads of the compressor again so I can tap them to 3/8 npt. I didn’t pay attention when putting it back together last week and thought I was doing good by turning the outlets 90* to better package everything. well, turns out the reed valve screws hit the pistons. Maybe that’s why it was so loud when I test ran it on the bench. One would think I would have noticed the recessed spots in the pistons but I’m dumb. You can see here where the screws contacted. I can’t see any other damage but I’m glad I didn’t let it run for very long.
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So more air or no? I have a viair torr apart that I need to build some massive heat sinks for. They seem to run so much better if the heat can be controlled.
 
but I do have access to the vevor to do a comparison. I think I'll plumb them to the tank I bought and measure the time from 0psi to the 120psi cut off switch. I should be able to calculate CFM from that and not have the restriction of the valve stem. looking back I should have done the mods in stages so quantify improvements but whatever.
 
but I do have access to the vevor to do a comparison. I think I'll plumb them to the tank I bought and measure the time from 0psi to the 120psi cut off switch. I should be able to calculate CFM from that and not have the restriction of the valve stem. looking back I should have done the mods in stages so quantify improvements but whatever.
almsot need a pedo tube to get CFM. It won't be linear over 5-10mins. maybe measure it until the unit get to a certain temp instead of overall psi?
 
Looks like a dual head tsunami/masterflow pump.

I had them wallow out where the rod attached to the crank.
 
I'm not sure exactly how I want to go about it. if anything, it will be a good science project and data. I figured I would gain the most from opening up the discharge side of things. going up to true 3/8" dual outputs from a single 1/8' NPT hole has to be worth something.
 
I planned to use this calculation which I know is just the average cfm over the whole test.

CFM = (V x ∆P) / (T x 14.7)
  • V = Tank volume in gallons
  • ∆P = Pressure difference in PSI
  • T = Time in seconds to fill the tank
  • 14.7 = Atmospheric pressure in PSI
 
Got another quick hour in the shop tonight after work. Finally got the heads drilled out and tapped for 3/8 NPT. Added some stainless compression fittings. I snagged a few scraps of 1/2” OD, 3/8” ID stainless tube to use for plumbing. Also pictured is the circuit board that comes with it. Not sure what else it does but there are 2 90A relays soldered in. My plan is to run this off of a 120A relay with a 100A breaker inline. All my bits and pieces have showed up except the tank that is probably on a boat somewhere.
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Impractical output. A single valve stem can’t flow nearly enough air to utilize the output. MorrFlate specifically states that this is to be used for their multiple tire inflation setups.
Since it's air, I'm curious what the "boost" would be in the line behind it. Delta P would still mean faster tire fill, so long as you're not exceeding other things (like burst pressure on the air line).
 
wvracer821
For a nOOB who wants to K.I.S.S. and simply air up 37" to 43" tires with an unmodified airpump; overall, which one do you recommend?

Is having the ability to air up all four tires at once worth the investment?
 

I just feel that the output is so high compared to the flow of a single valve stem that you just generate a bunch of heat. If you do get one, I would certainly add a pressure switch so the thing gets a break without you having to get to the switch.
 
wvracer821
For a nOOB who wants to K.I.S.S. and simply air up 37" to 43" tires with an unmodified airpump; overall, which one do you recommend?

Is having the ability to air up all four tires at once worth the investment?
I air up 8.00R20s all the time with this.


I paid $150 for it in 2023, the Vevor wasn't available yet and the dual piston ones were $200+. Now the dual piston ones start around $160 and the Vevor is under $100. I'd go for the Vevor.
 
Thanks for the link! :beer:

Is getting one with a tank worth it ($50 more)?
I've eliminated my tank, it was small and once it equlizes it does not really help. Not sure what others think. Also the compressors are all able to supply more air than a standard valve stem can accommodate so filling more than one tire will help keep the compressor cooler.
 
I've eliminated my tank, it was small and once it equlizes it does not really help. Not sure what others think.
Ok. :beer:
Also the compressors are all able to supply more air than a standard valve stem can accommodate so filling more than one tire will help keep the compressor cooler.
Damn; tech I never heard of/known!:eek:

Thanks for sharing.:beer:
 
You bring up a side question:
Are air tools still a mainstay, or are they like the cassette tape: ever slowly fading away?

The question stems from cordless technology/advancement of the tool industry.
I'm sure all the ******s who have $10k tied up in red and yellow tools will be along shortly with their ******ation and motivated reasoning but it really depends on your use case and budget.

For just changing a tire an electric impact is fine and usually less of a hassle than air.
 
if you have the tank and enough flow, air tools are possible for sure. thats the main reason I wanted to do this project. my tow rig is basically my service truck when im off work. but honestly in my trail rig I carry harbor freight cordless stuff. if it gets lost or smashed its not as painful as anything yellow or red
 
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